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First video of Photographing Scale Models series is now up ...

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  • Member since
    January, 2006
First video of Photographing Scale Models series is now up ...
Posted by Paul Budzik on Friday, February 24, 2017 8:54 PM

 

Paul

  • Member since
    November, 2003
  • From: Virginia
Posted by Mike F6F on Saturday, February 25, 2017 1:00 PM

Paul,

Nicely done. 

Particularly the use of TIFF files.  I've often had the hardest time convincing folks to edit in .tif.  Your explaination was concise and well stated.

Good luck with the rest of your videos.

Mike

 

"Grumman on a Navy Airplane is like Sterling on Silver."

  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Far Northern CA
Posted by mrmike on Saturday, February 25, 2017 4:37 PM

Very informative overview, Paul. I'll be looking forward to the next installment in the series.

Mike

 

  • Member since
    April, 2015
Posted by Mopar Madness on Saturday, February 25, 2017 6:03 PM

I've been struggling with my techniques.  I'm certainly looking forward to this series!

MM

God, Family, Models...

At the plate: 1/48 Dragon Ho 229

On deck: Hobby Boss 1/48 Bv-141/B

In the hole: 1/48 Eduard Yak-3

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, February 26, 2017 11:37 AM

Mike F6F

Paul,

Nicely done. 

Particularly the use of TIFF files.  I've often had the hardest time convincing folks to edit in .tif.  Your explaination was concise and well stated.

Good luck with the rest of your videos.

 

Is there any advantage to tiff over the native file format of your editor?

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    January, 2006
Posted by Paul Budzik on Sunday, February 26, 2017 3:25 PM

I can only speak to Photoshop (.psd) vs (.tif).  If you stay in Photoshop (or other Adobe applications) you will have access to additional features and it's lossless like a tiff, but your more than likely going to have problems trying to import the image to anything else.  I think Mike was speaking to folks who don't understand that the image is repeatedly compressed when working in jpeg.  So when they start with a pretty dodgy jpeg to begin with, it goes to h**l pretty fast.  So as soon as you open the image, you should resave it as a .tif, or in my case a .psd.  Then do your edits and if you need a jpeg, do it only when you’ve finished editing and save it at the highest quality setting.
  • Member since
    July, 2014
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, February 26, 2017 4:04 PM

Very informative. I am looking forward to seeing more of these.

 

  • Member since
    November, 2003
  • From: Virginia
Posted by Mike F6F on Sunday, February 26, 2017 4:08 PM

Paul is correct. I was advocating converting JPEGS to TIFFS when the original capture was a JPEG to avoid the continual file compression Paul excellently points out in the video.

PSD files for those working in Photoshop are the way to go of course.  I mentioned going the TIFF route since it is a universal format regardless of software.  I usually do a final output to TIFF as an additional archived file.

I often work with TIFFs directly since they support Photoshop layers, etc. and I always edit using Photoshop adjustment layers. It depends on deadlines, etc.

Mike

 

"Grumman on a Navy Airplane is like Sterling on Silver."

  • Member since
    January, 2006
Posted by Paul Budzik on Saturday, April 08, 2017 9:41 AM

Here is the second one ...

 

Paul

  • Member since
    April, 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Saturday, April 08, 2017 11:23 AM

Another very informative video. Yes

Was never aware of the mirror lock option and how it could help decrease camera shake.  Reading up on my Nikon D3100, supposedly when using the rear screen view to focus, this will lock the mirror open?

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    July, 2014
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, April 08, 2017 12:04 PM

These are excellent videos packed with good information. I love the retro camera adds too. Nicely done. 

 

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