What glue do you like for general model assembly?

Adhere well to paint without harming it? That sounds like a deal breaker,nothing I know of of.

Gator Grip and Elmer's type glues,won't damage paint,but not much strength.

You got me.

I use Tamiya thin for most applications and Weldon #4 when I need a hotter solvent. 

Won't these products eat paint? There are times when I will need to bond parts to painted surfaces. Example chrome trim pieces on bodies, cabs to chassis mounts, vehicle lights, truck horns, door handles and mirrors on trucks. I know Krazy Glue type products are paint-friendly. They have no solvents. 

Tamiya thin is a CEMENT and Weldon #4 gets some crappy reviews on amazon.com. 

Hello!

For unpainted styrene I use lacquer thinner (has to have butyl acetate in it). For painted parts I use super glue. That's why I try to glue everything together as far as possible, and paint later.

I think people might give crappy reviews when they didn't work how to use a product yet...

It's also worth remembereing that a coat of future will prevent frosting from super glue...

Hope it helps - have a nice day, or actually - Merry christmas!

Paweł

For general work I use gel CA.  The gel stuff does not need perfect fits, as does thin CA.  For joints where I need longer setup time, I use Tamiya thin solvent stuff.

I will eventually have to glue clear glass parts and trim pieces to painted bodies. Correct, I do try to assemble unpainted parts with cement as much as possible or feasible. For example, the chassis of my truck. Should I only apply a dap of Future to the spots that are to be glued to prevent that white haze surrounding the joint with Krazy Glue? 

I plan to use Testor's Gloss or Dull Cote to seal waterslide decals. 

Tamiya extra thin mostly and super glue

Where can I buy a THIN super glue that brushes on?

Generally the liquid super glues are in small squeeze bottles.  If you want to brush it, squeeze a little on a non porous surface and pick it up on your brush.  Clean the brushes with acetone.

In my experience, super glues with applicator tips clog up and the whole bottle is no good. I found brush-on liquid Loctite super glue at Walmart for no mess. I don't like that thick, goopy Gorilla super glue I bought. The Gorilla might be Ok for heavy duty home and car repairs, but models are small and delicate. The Gorilla glue is stringy when the brush is taken out of the bottle and that string of adhesive will mess up any model it happens to fall onto. If I need pinpoint application I can use a toothpick as well. This dries clear and should be good for canopies and windows as well. 

According to Walmart listing: 

There's a short but good video on the FSM site that explains the various types of glues and how to use them. Based on your posts I think you'd benefit from taking a few minutes and watching:

https://finescale.com/videos/how-to-videos/2021/11/scale-model-basics-how-to-glue-plastic-scale-models

goldhammer88

Generally the liquid super glues are in small squeeze bottles.  If you want to brush it, squeeze a little on a non porous surface and pick it up on your brush.  Clean the brushes with acetone.

 

For a non-porus surface I use those dummy credit cards I get in the mail.  Also, some plastic coated card stock flyers I get are coated well enough to not absorb thin CA.  I use a homemade tool to pick it up- a needle with the tip of the eye ground off, and point stuck in dowel, to pick up the glue and place it on part.  I can scrape off the eye to clean it pretty well.

I have been using the UV cured resins such as bondit more and more. Great for holding and setting in place small PE such as railings on ships. Sets almost instantly when you want it to using a  UV flashlight. I buy the stuff on Amazon as well as the UV flashlight.

The main problem I find with the UV hardening is that you have to shine the UV into the seam.  This can be problematic with some windows.  Canopies are usually easy, but windows that mount inside can be problematic.  You have to put extra glue on the outside of those windows, like the flanged ones.

JonBailey

 Should I only apply a dap of Future to the spots that are to be glued to prevent that white haze surrounding the joint with Krazy Glue? 

 

Im curious too about the process of using future.... 

I saw once on the site here something i started doing and works well for me.  You can sick a sewing needle into the end of a short dowl then split the head ( eye end) of the need to create 2 little barbs.  Now you've got a handy glue applicator.