What colour is Olive Drab?

See the latest from Steve....I have noted it myself. Tamiya has changed the OD XF-62

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47208/message/1249468634/Tamiya+XF-62+Olive+drab+formula+changed

Looks like the new lot on the street is toooo green

Rounds Complete!!

I'll throw in my 2 cents for the OD 319. 1) Tamiya's OD is closer to OD shade 41 which was the color used on AAF aircraft; 2) OD 319 was based on OD shade 9 which was the shade used by the Army ground forces. When new 319 was lighter, greener, and grayer in hue than OD 41, which had more of a brownish hue.

M4 in Normandy

M4s enr to Normandy

Thank you very much for your update on this redleg12 and Stickpusher.

I find the picture of the M4 in Normadie very interesting since it looks as if there is a Camo pattern applied, would you have any additional information on this Stickpusher?

Since I don't know what batch of XF62 I have enclosed some colour samples:

 

These are:
XF60 Dark Yellow (for reference)
XF58 Olive Green (for reference)
XF64 Red Brown (for reference)
XF62 Olive Drab
XF62 cut with 1/3 XF60 as suggested
UA220 Lusterless Olive Drab 319
UA219 Lusterless Olive Drab FS33070 (fore reference) 

Thank You

With Kind Regards
Utoshita

I don't know if you all realize this, but you can't get an accurate representation of a color while viewing it on a computer monitor or a photograph.  So many things effect the tone of a color:

• Lighting
• Camera
• Film
• Age of picture
• Scan quality
• Graphics card
• Computer monitor settings
• etc, etc,etc.

The only way to truely see the tone of a color is too look at a color chip/pallette.  Trying to match a color based on a photograph or, worse yet, a computer screen image is futile.

-Jesse

Well, if you're looking for opinions, I think the XF62 cut with 1/3 XF60 is your best bet. I say this because of the various Sherman models and such that I've seen. Also, this color looks to me to be the closest to that of most of the old WWII-era US gear that I've been around.

Of course, that's by no means a scientific conclusion.

I do not build much armor, but recently began a Tamiya M4 early Sherman.  I picked up the Tamiya XF-62 OD this week at the LHS, and it really looks brown and dark.  I am assuming this is the new formula, and needs to be cut with another color to make it suitable.  I apologize for my ignorance on this.

I also have a bottle of MM OD #FS34087, and it looks much better.  Is this one close to the right color?

Daywalker wrote:

I picked up the Tamiya XF-62 OD this week at the LHS, and it really looks brown and dark.  I am assuming this is the new formula, and needs to be cut with another color to make it suitable.

Hi Frank,

If your Tamiya OD looks brown and dark, it's a good bet you have the "good old" Tamiya XF-62. I picked up a  bottle last week to compare and the "new" bottle appears noticeably greener.

If I recall correctly, two parts of the old XF-62, mixed with approx 1 part XF-60 Dark Yellow yields the correct "lightened" shade. However, if this mix turns bright green (a grassy green colour) then it's the "new" formula.

I think Lifecolors Olive Drab 219 is the most accurate representation of Olive Drab I have seen- and i have been around a lot of restored WWII vehicles.  I would recomend buying their set of OD colors.  I usually spray them out of the jar with no thinner added- but distilled water thins them fine.  To clean, just run your airbrush under the sink and it will be clean in seconds.  I love Lifecolor.

Shame about Tamiya.

Hi Frank,

I haven't really looked at it yet, but I would suggest also picking up a jar of Deck Tan (XF-55) and Flat Brown (XF-10). These may be helpful in tweaking the colour if required.

Interestingly, I have at least one, maybe more jars of 80's or early 90's vintage XF-62 and this seems to be composed of distinct green and brown pigments which separate out at different rates so if you thin the paint and leave it, it settles with the brown pigment at the bottom and a deep green lighter pigment layer at the top. The more recent blends seem to be a more uniforml pigment which doesn't appear to separate, or if it does, not as noticeably.

OK...sorry I did not post this sooner. Here is a great article by Steve Zaloga on OD. It gives you the history....detail on closest match...and a paint chart of all the model paints available and which are the closest.

http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article.asp?a=4536

Now that you have read the history....and the paint details. For me I tend to used Polyscale for the base and use a mix of Tamiya for the shadowing. In the past I had used straight Tamiya mix for the base and a darker shade for tinting. I prefer to be a bit lighter to show details better.

I tend to agree with Steve and his view in the article and is a great resource for the OD fans.

Rounds Complete!! 

Your welcome....sorry I could not get it to you sooner...just got back from another trip for work....

As Mr. OD amoung all my Germaholic friends....I need to put some defination to OD

Rounds Complete!!

YEAH, THAT'S IT REDLEG.  Exactly the article that came to mind when the question came up. I doubt anybody's research is better on this that Steve Zagola's, or turns out better looking models, for that matter. He's the Master

( Current feature at MM )

stikpusher wrote:

Excellent article link Redleg. I am curious though about how all the other shades of OD made by Gunze (two other shades) and Polly Scale (three other shades) compared. On a personal note, I just like the look of the Polly Scale OD as my primary choice for OD.

Stick - To compare here are some charts

http://phoenix-model.com/paint_charts/Testors_MM_Acrylic.pdf

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/colorcharts/stuff_eng_colorcharts_mrcolor_map.htm

http://www.jbwholesalers.com.au/pollyscale/images/polly%20scale%20military%20acrylic%20colors.pdf

You can compare the colors yourself but IMO they tend to be lighter and yellower for PS and darker for gunze.

Again...we are talking WWII/Korean War OD. As we move more towards the early 60s the OD color shifted and became a bit darker and greener...also IMO, not as flat.

When I first came back to modeling I was using Tamiya as I felt it was the best match. As Steve states, it is but due to size and lighting effects you are better going lighter and thus I have switched to PS505370 straight for the base coat and darken edges with a Tamiya mix or straight Tamiya OD. I too have moved to PS for the OD for 40s and 50s era OD models.

As far as OD and Steve....he is an expert on WWII US equipment and has throughly researched the "OD" color. Like many things here it is a matter of art but on this one, IMO have to agree with Steve.

I have seen some of Steve's work and it is outstanding. If he is at a show and gives a talk on detailing.....it's a college course in modeling. Besides that....he is a good guy to talk to. 

Rounds Complete!!

    YOU SAID IT  ^^^^^ 

 That opinion is a five star opinion in my opinion 

Glad to have you in the church of OD.....your more than welcome on the info....that's what we are all here for.

Hummmm....I wonder is ther was a collection at this service

Rounds Complete!!

Judging by all the reactions to the original question OD seems to be more a science than a color.

Julian

I have just finished painting an old Matchbox 1:76 Chaffee with Vallejo OD, with glazes and drybrushing with OD lightened with a dash of yellow. Pretty happy with the results and after reading the OD article on MM by Steve Zaloga, even more so. For braillers out there, Vallejo is about the right way to go at least to my eye.

I reckon once a darkening wash of  Sienna or Umber is added, should look pretty convincing.

Sounds like OD shades confuse as much as a precide shade of RAAF Goliage Gree. I am glad the majority of my armour builds are Russian armour.

Stick -

Grem56 wrote:

Judging by all the reactions to the original question OD seems to be more a science than a color. Julian

Grem - No...it can be more like a religon...

Most people here are into German equipment...so this is like the rabbi giving a service in church!!. Many of my Germaholic friends here get into finishing debates all the time. Go to a site like Missing Lynx and there you will see some detail debate every day.

It depends on how much of a "rivet counter" you are. As other here know I tend to be more to that side than the "art...looks good" side.

Steve is a historian and professional modeler. For him studying OD and writing about it was part of his job.  It's nice to benifit from his work!

madmike wrote:

I have just finished painting an old Matchbox 1:76 Chaffee with Vallejo OD, with glazes and drybrushing with OD lightened with a dash of yellow. Pretty happy with the results and after reading the OD article on MM by Steve Zaloga, even more so. For braillers out there, Vallejo is about the right way to go at least to my eye. I reckon once a darkening wash of  Sienna or Umber is added, should look pretty convincing. Sounds like OD shades confuse as much as a precide shade of RAAF Goliage Gree. I am glad the majority of my armour builds are Russian armour.

Mike - I can understand the use of Vallejo, especially since it is such a great brush paint.

As far as the shade confusing, it is more a matter of how long and how much the color was used and how the shades drifted around. Panzer grey did not last nearly as long!!. Also mono tone models are actually IMHO more difficult than camo. No one really goes nuts over the correct shades of the 4 color MERDOC pattern. It's too busy!! But all one color......now everyone looks.

Russian green...now that just whatever green was around at the time right

Rounds Complete!!

 Manny, just found this http://byrden.com/panzers/Colours/PanzerGrey.html

                                                                           doc