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Tamiya StuG III Ausf. B

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  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Tamiya StuG III Ausf. B
Posted by deafpanzer on Monday, July 5, 2010 1:39 AM

Hope you are having a great July 4th weekend!

I signed up for Turretless GB and Tamiya StuG III Ausf. B was my choice.  I bought this Tamiya kit at Hobby Lobby using 40% coupon.  Yup, I am a cheap a$$ like some of you guys. Stick out tongue It was a recent release and it comes with small amount of PE parts & aluminum gun barrel.  The build experience was good but it was too short with low count of parts.  The kit track came in as rubber bands so I opted for MK tracks with help from wbill, thank you wbill!  Also, I used AM cable because the kit set wasn't that great. 

The forum has been very helpful for me to build my second armor since my return after 20+ years break.  Great tips how to paint the wheels & tracks, MIG weathering pigments, which colors to paint, using the pencil, how to paint wood and many more that I couldn't list 'em all.  Thank you guys! Yes

Please bear with me as I am still trying to figure out how to use my new digital camera Nikon CoolPix A570 that I bought few days ago.

I was too chicken to try dot filtering procedure this time.  But I tried the MIG weathering pigment called 'Panzer Grey (Fading)' and I liked it very much.  You can look at more pictures of the weathering results in the Turretless GB on page 10 if you wish.  Then I applied second coat using Light Brown & Dark Brown MIG Washer and I nearly ruined my first weathing job.  I think I was supposed to apply some protective coating before I apply second weathering?  Help me here! Confused

 

Tools... used MM Wood then applied W&N Burnt Umber oil paint. Then MM Gunmetal dry brushed with MM Steel.  MIG Light Rust was used on some tools...

 

Interior pictures... I wish I bought AM stuff for interior because Tamiya kit wasn't that detailed.  I drilled holes to hold potato mashers like shown in my reference books.  The range finder part broke... I need to have it fixed by inserting a wire to hold it together because the cazy glue couldn't hold it together.  It was one of two struggles I have had with this kit... PE part was so fragile that it snapped often.

 

I apologize for allowing my StuG crew to live like a bunch of pigs...

Playing with my new camera... I think it works better if I can take pictures outside?

 I used the camera's flash... result was different but it showed its true color.  Do you guys use camera flash or not?

Finally, I want to thank detailfreak for his countless support especially the pictures he found about my StuG.  You have to look at the pictures he posted.  And of course Thunderbolt379 for taking his time too!

Comments welcomed... thank you for looking!

Andy

  • Member since
    March 2006
Posted by TD4438 on Monday, July 5, 2010 4:02 AM

Nice all around job!

  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by Harshman II on Monday, July 5, 2010 6:10 AM

Very good looking tank..

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Rugby, England
Posted by Hinksy on Monday, July 5, 2010 6:53 AM

Hey Deafpanzer,

Lovely work my friend!

I love these early short barreled StuGs. I built the Ausf A version from Dragon but I've seen the Tamiya one and think it is actually a little better! I used Fruils on mine and had a lot of help from WBill too-he gave me a link to his BLOG from when he built the same kit that I was building so I stuck to that.

Top job!

ATVB

Ben Big Smile

On the Bench - Dragon Pz. IV Ausf. G (L.A.H.) Yes

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  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Monday, July 5, 2010 8:19 AM

Great overall job,interior looks great.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: A Spartan in the Wolverine State
Posted by rjkplasticmod on Monday, July 5, 2010 8:58 AM

Nicely done Andy.  I did the 1/48 version a couple of years ago.

Regards,  Rick

RICK At My Age, I've Seen It All, Done It All, But I Don't Remember It All...
  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Monday, July 5, 2010 9:27 AM

TD4438, Harshman and Anthony2779- Many thanks for your comments! 

Ben- I can't tell you how many times I had to go back to wbill website. LOL  I want to do StuG III G soon but I haven't bought a kit.. I'd love to build one of each StuG variants from A to G if my life allows me to.  Thanks!

Rick- Thanks!  You gonna love those StuGs...

Andy

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, July 5, 2010 9:43 AM

Andy,

Wow, that's some sharp work especially for only being your 2nd build back at the hobby! Yes Yes

On your question of the flash, it's generally a good idea not to use it. For static small-scale subjects it has a tendency to be too harsh and great stark contrasts. Outdoor or "natural" lighting works much better but is obviously not something you can control. The best controlled lighting is diffused lighting using a light tent, here's a link on how to do a very cheap/simple DIY tent if you're interested in going down that road. http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-make-a-inexpensive-light-tent 

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: t.r.f. mn.
Posted by detailfreak on Monday, July 5, 2010 11:42 AM

Alright,you get back over to the G.B. forum this instant,hahahaha.Just kiddin man,I was wondering when you would get around to sharing this with everyone. I dont think some wander very far from the armor forum LOL.Yes

[View:http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w1/g-earl828/]  http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/cycledupes/1000Roadwheels4BuildBadge.jpg

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Monday, July 5, 2010 2:36 PM

wbill, like I said, I wouldn't have done any better without reading your toots.  I hope you don't know how many times I have gone to your website. Big Smile  Setting up a light tent is one of my projects for me to do this year.  Thanks for the great link.  My wife and I decided to go back to store to return Nikon for Canon camera.  Its autofocus isn't that great at close shots. 

Its not really my second build but for sure its my second armor model.  Actually its the fourth build since my return because I didn't count that wingy thing I built for my boy earlier and a helicopter for my another son but it was good way to improve my airbrushing and decaling before I attack my armor models.  It looks like I owe you BeerBeerBeer... that's three... first for the 234/1 toot, second for the MK tracks, and third for the StuG toot.

detailfreak, you got to be kidding me... I promised myself to complete four GBs this year.  That's my motivation despite my hectic work and family schedules.  Again, I can't thank you enough for keeping me entertained back at the GB.  I owe you one big Beer!

 

Andy

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: t.r.f. mn.
Posted by detailfreak on Monday, July 5, 2010 2:48 PM

It's nothing but a pleasure for me.Beer

[View:http://s172.photobucket.com/albums/w1/g-earl828/]  http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/cycledupes/1000Roadwheels4BuildBadge.jpg

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Jefferson City, MO
Posted by iraqiwildman on Monday, July 5, 2010 5:05 PM

I am building this same kit now. How did you build the track holder on the front hull? Did you just glue the extra roadwheels on the back deck?

I like your tow cable idea, what did you use for this cable?

I also saw a photo of handles on the smaller, gunsight hatches, so I built 2 out of wire. I am not sure holw accurate this was.

Tim Wilding

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Posted by total american patriot on Monday, July 5, 2010 10:29 PM

Deafpanzer yeah it is essential to put a protective coating after a layer of weathering. I use Tamiya flat clear for this , because it's cheap, reliable, and dries fast so I can get back into the action! Good stug, I LOVE the interior!

 

THE BIG CHEESE!!! - Monty Python

Photobucket

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 12:40 AM

Nice StuG. Going with the MK's was a solid choice. Tedious, but worth the time.

Couple of things I noticed, the handles of the cutters I believe were a darkish grey (feel free anyone to correct me), they were made of some sort of composite plastic. Hope I'm right about that. The tow cables should not be rusted, I should have known that myself and erred on my KV. My apologies if it's dirt and not rust. On my screen it looks more on the rusty side.

I was wondering if you tried the grey pigs on the tires? I'm thinking about it on some projects I've got going.

Again, nicely understated StuG. 

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Steilacoom, Washington
Posted by Killjoy on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 12:44 AM

Welcome back to the hobby!  Very sharp looking build, and a great subject!

Chris

A veteran is someone who, at one point in their life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including my life."

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 2:18 AM
Deafpanzer, Welcome back to the hobby! Your second armor kit eh? I like this Stug that you've shared with us. Nicely done sir. As for the dot filter, just dive right in. It really isn't all that bad. When I started using that technique I actually when too light with it. It will be another skill set you'll be glad you added to your tool box Keep up the good work. Looking forward to seeing more of your work Cheers Dave

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 7:40 AM

Very nice, very nice indeed.

Asa to the cutters handles, and again I stand to be corrected as well, you are right Eric they were made of a composite material.  Something like... or actually being... Bakelite.  This would have been a red/brown color but solid in tone.  Not wood grain.

Marc  

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 10:10 AM

Hey Iraqiwildman!  Yes I do remember you buying same kit from Hobby Lobby as suggested.  Don't glue the gun sight until you are almost done if you haven't.  Mine broke off several times!  Lesson learned... glue fragile parts when I am done painting and weathering, etc. 

Here's my answers to your questions...

I am building this same kit now. How did you build the track holder on the front hull? Did you just glue the extra roadwheels on the back deck?

I like your tow cable idea, what did you use for this cable?

Track holder- Yes, I glued the spare track holder that came with the kit onto the hull. It wasn't in the instructions. Many pictures showed that way.  Then I added nuts from Bolt & Nut set from MK to match one I saw in one of my reference books. 

Extra roadwheels- Again it was not in the instructions so I had to do a great deal of research on this with help from my GB buddies especially detailfreak and thunderbolt.  Not all StuG III B held their spare wheels the same way!  TB suggested me to look if there's pivot rod came as spares with the kit and he was RIGHT!  Here's the picture of the part and the real picture of StuG I wanted to follow... on top of rear engine access doors.

Tow cable- I agree as the kit set was horrible.  I bought this at AMPS show in Auburn for $8 I think... but unfortunately I broke one of the ends as I found it to be too fragile but I liked the cable itself.  I used the spare ends from the kit.  So be careful if you want to use same AM. 

Hope this helps... good luck with your build!

Andy

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 10:17 AM

Total American Patriot, thanks for your nice comment and answer to my question!  I figured I should have applied a protective coating first after I discovered my mistake... you can call it a learning experience for me! Big Smile  I bought this because my LHS doesn't sell Tamiya flat clear.. will it work guys?

Andy

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 10:24 AM

Thanks Tigerman!  It is good hearing from you.  I agree about MK tracks as I love those.  I had to glue the guide horns along with the pins so it was pretty challenging and required more time.  I was told it is not like that for all MK tracks.  I used the grey pigs on the tires but not on the rubbers.  It was the fun part!  No worries about the cutters... I found a great picture in one of my reference books.

You gonna love those Walk Around books from Squadron/Signal Publications!

Andy

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 10:33 AM

Chris, Dave & Marc-  THANK you for looking and taking your time to make comments.  You guys in the forum rocks!  I learned everything from you guys...

Dave- I will dive into using the oil paints... I have everything except for red if I will ever need it. LOL

You will see more of my work... Tristar Panzer I Ausf. A is next as part of Battle of Norway GB.  I couldn't believe how tiny it is... thanks again!

Andy

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 12:23 PM

Andy,

The MM Lusterless Flat in the spray can is what I use as my preferred dull-coat agent. Great stuff, very reliable, just be sure to shake it thoroughly before each use and you'll be good to go.

As for the wire cutter handles, they were either made out of Bakelite (an early form of hard plastic) or resin-impregnated paper (cardboard). The idea is a simple one, the handles needed to have an insulation to protect the tool operator in the event they needed to cut through electrified wire and the Bakelite/resin-paper combination had the added advantage of being light-weight vs. wood and equally durable.

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Goteborg / Sverige
Posted by Svenne Duva on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 12:49 PM

How about a dio?
The picture bellow comes from the privat collection of Christian Ankerstjerne, www..panzerworld.net



Thank you for sharing Andy, your build looks great in every detail!

Svenne

sic transit gloria mundi

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 1:06 PM

Andy, nice reference picture on the handles for the cutters. I can't think of where I heard that they were grey or even black? Still recovering from the 4th. LOL

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 2:12 PM

Marc- Sorry I missed your comment earlier.  Thank you! Yes

Bill- You sure know alot about this. Thanks for the info about MM Lusterless Flat. Beer I will give it a try on my next kit Panzer I Ausf. A.  Do you use it as protective coating between MIG weathering pigment jobs?  I recall you use it at the very end.  If so, then should I use it on my StuG III now to seal the work?  I am afraid it will make it look more dull than it is already.

Svenne- Not sure about diomara but I plan to include figures for sure.  I feel adding figures to vehicles makes them complete.  I will be using StuG crew from Verlinden...

I am not sure if the StuG crew uniforms are correct... it should be in black if my StuG was part of Invasion of Russia in 1942 or so.   Will look further into this unless you know the answer.  Thanks again!

Andy

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 8:06 PM

Andy,

Don't use it to seal in Mig pigments...it will actually make the pigments virtually vanish due to the fact that the dull coat works via very small particles of talcum powder suspended in the lacquer carrier. I always apply it before I do pigments and not after. Since I typically apply my pigments wet, I don't have to worry abou needing to "fix" them in place. HTH!

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Tuesday, July 6, 2010 8:59 PM

Thank you Bill for the warning!  I will not seal StuG with this. Stick out tongue  Like I said, I have so much to learn! 

Returned my Nikon Coolpix for a better camra... I am now very satisfied with Canon PowerShot SX20 even tho I had to cough up extra $200 to get it.  I think it is a good investment for my hobby and family especially when we go on vacations.  The rep who had more experience in photography told me to get this camera because it comes with Super Marco so I can take pictures of objects inches away.  This is what I wanted... can't wait to play with it for next days.  The only bad news... I will refrain myself from buying more kits for next 6 months or so.  No worries... I have about 50 kits so I will be good for next 5-6 years at my current rate.

9455127 Alternate View 1

Andy

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Thursday, July 8, 2010 10:10 AM

I prefer the Canon line of cameras myself Andy and use the Rebel T1I D-SLR. The PowerShot you've selected looks like a real winner and using the Macro setting will definitely be a positive feature for up-close model photography. Just be sure to check what the minimum distance is from the subject since it's a fixed lens and always use it with a tri-pod to avoid blurring of your shots. I'd also recommend that you use the timer function and/or get yourself a remote trigger to avoid "camera shake" when you depress the shutter button. It doesn't seem like it would be that big of a deal but when you are taking macro shots, you'll be amazed at how even the slightest of movements will affect your camera's ability to shoot clearly. Wink

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Jefferson City, MO
Posted by iraqiwildman on Saturday, July 10, 2010 5:20 PM

 Thanks for the help. I was wondering what these extra parts were for. I need to look at the other spares and see if I can use them.

I am thinking of a rack in the back using some small pieces of wood. Did you see any ideas in your research?

Tim Wilding

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