Posted by gregbale
on Wednesday, March 15, 2023 9:45 AM
Pontiac.maniac How would a person go about custom decals for these builds? Like say the Ford Fairmont that's a Glidden kit there's many nice pro stock Fairmonts from that era.
Home-made decals really open up amazing possibilities for doing custom models. I developed my process mostly thorough trial and error over the years; no claim that it's the 'best' way...it's just worked reliably for me. Here are the basics:
1) I make up my artwork based on available photos of the prototype, using good old MS-Paint: I like it because it's simpler, but much more intuitive, than fancier graphics programs...but that's just me. Any good graphics program will do. I'll generally use a mix of internet images (if suitable ones are available) and self-created art as necessary. I save the art as a TIFF -- since MS-Paint isn't a vector graphics format, I use TIFF rather than JPG so there's no degradation (due to compression) each time the file is opened.
2) When it's time to print, I'll paste the art file into a regular word document to size it by simple 'dragging.' I figured out what display percentage setting on the document will show as 'real' size on my monitor...so I can actually measure with a ruler against the model, to get very precise sizing.
3) When everything's ready, I print the 'document' on my standard HP inkjet printer using commercially-available decal paper (either white or clear, whichever works best).
4) Inkjet decals need to be sealed before use. Once they are thoroughly dry -- I put mine in front of a small desk fan overnight, which seems to do the job -- I'll spray them with clear sealant. My #1 choice is Testor's Decal Bonder (which is, I believe, a lacquer), but others use stuff like Krylon, etc. One light coat to start, then a second slightly heavier coat to 'make sure.'
5) Once the sealant coat is dry, they're ready to use just (more-or-less) as you'd do with any other waterslide decals. I've used setting solutions (judiciously) without any problems, and they can be given whatever 'final' clear coat is applied to the model as a whole.
Those are the basics. There's a lot more 'in the weeds' detail -- which I'd be happy to bore you with, if you've got questions -- or which can probably be found a thousand different places online. Everybody's got their own 'method,' complete with materials and brand-name preferences: and niggly stuff like different printer inks or paper brands can (sometimes somewhat-randomly) make a big difference in results.
Keep in mind also that truly accurate race car decals in particular can be something of a challenge, since the sponsor/contingency decals displayed often change quite a bit from race to race. You can do what the model companies like Revell do, and do a 'generic' mix of contingencies for a given season...or of course, if photos are available, you can portray a car during a particular race.
Cheers 
Greg
George Lewis:
"Every time you correct me on my grammar I love you a little fewer."
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