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Clear on top of paint crazed plastic underneath?

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  • Member since
    April 2015
  • From: Detroit, MURDER CITY
Clear on top of paint crazed plastic underneath?
Posted by RudyOnWheels on Tuesday, May 24, 2022 7:48 PM

I just had a first happen for me, I laid down some model master "British racing green" metallic enamel with my airbrush, then put the model in the dehydrator for a day, then a couple weeks later I finally got around to clearing it with a can of "rust oleum crystal clear enamel" that I had laying around from last year, as I was out of my usual model master stuff in the can, plus the fact they quit making it, (I think, I know they killed the 1/2 oz bottles at least, not sure about the cans) and the fact my "local" hobby shop is about 35 miles away, and on the way to exactly nowhere. It worked ok on most of the model, except the roof, hood and fenders. ( the latter are all separate on this model) it seemed to "craze" in those areas. i was able to polish out the roof for the most part, but elected to strip the hood and fenders as they had a bit of a pebbly finish from the crazing. I also didn't want to destroy the molded in emblems. 

I was quite surp to see the crazing was still there, right in the plastic, underneath the paint and clear I had just stripped. I had to sand all that down to the best of my ability, trying not to destroy too much detail. 

anybody seen this happen before? 

thanks! -Rudy 

a few pics: 

after clear:

https://i.imgur.com/6d2xj2R.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GxkYvJQ.jpg

 

after stripping: https://i.imgur.com/jd8Dvld.jpg

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Wednesday, May 25, 2022 9:51 AM

I'm afraid your clear has attacked the paint underneath. Sometimes paints can be too hot for the paint they are covering and this will happen. Best thing to do and not ruin the details is to put it in a container of Dot3 Brake fluid and strip it bare and redo it. I would use another type of clear and do a test or two on another kit or a plastic spoon to see if any reactions take place before I start painting the kit. Once you know the two live together well you can go ahead and refinish it. I've had to do this a few times. I finally just stopped using rattle can clears. Good luck on the rework.

BK

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