NEW!! ...1/35 Chinook photo UPDATE!

Chief Snake wrote:

Chief Snake is working several things.  Once the rear shape issues are knocked out the aft end will get a detail package and the remainder of the cabin will get upgrades. Chief Snake

Chief,
    Thanks for the update. Is the interior upgrades going to include the Stringers in the cargo area? I think I'll put my build on hold until this update set comes out. I can still scratch the chunker housing, stub wings, and it looks like the 20mm's as well in the mean time.

Hi Chris,

Chief Snake wrote:

Need some input from hookers about the front xmsn case. How often was it exposed in the cockpit walkway area?

All the input I can give on this, is that some Units had panels over the Control Closet...

And some didn't....

Seats will get redone and detailed and I think the cockpit wall may have an error. The circuit breaker panels look out of place, any comments from the hook guys?

An interesting detail concerning the angle of the top of the circuit breaker panels, as seen from the side. (behind seat)

Here's a straight-on shot of Go-Go Niner's skeleton, showing position of breaker panel...

The front pylon is a bit goofy, the  slant is a little steep and the vents not there in addition to the SAS sensors. The panels aren't quite right either but is it worth a new pylon?

My vote is Yes concerning the fwd pylon.     Compare the width of the rain shield on the kit, to that of a real Chinook (note the position of the Jesus Bolt in relation to the rain shield).... therein lies the problem; the top of the fwd pylon is not wide enough, and the rim around the top of the pylon, from the Crown panel around the back to the other side, doesn't flare out enough.    This, in-turn, affects the "slant". Also, note the buldge on the sides, which is too high and the crease too drastic.

Hope this helps...

Take care,

Frank

Base to Gino.....recieved your message.....wild hamster is on fire....again I say.. wild hamster is on fire....your vector is alfa brovo 390 ...over....beep

I need to get out.....get some air......

Papa-Echo-64 wrote:

Thanks Frank! Gino..I did recieve a few....always replied.....hmmmmm. Try again ....do a test at  ttkje@comcast.net

 

Sent a test message. 

Chief Snake wrote:

Chief Snake is working several things. Correcting the front is underway, greenhouse windows (enlarged) will be cast in clear/green resin, the others, corrected, in plain clear resin (windshield, bubbles and jettisonable doors) and the center will be cast in the usual tan resin. The missing support structure and detail under the pilots' pedals will be worked in with it. Smaller back wheels pretty much done, have to make the brake calipers. Front wheel done, making brake caliper now. Research on the rear end problem is finished and the station lines identified for redo and reskin of the aft end. The sail has some errors, vent located in wrong spot and top rear is not curved properly but that will be easy to change. Once the rear shape issues are knocked out the aft end will get a detail package and the remainder of the cabin will get upgrades. Standard M-24 weapons mounts will be made, guns are already done. Need some input from hookers about the front xmsn case. How often was it exposed in the cockpit walkway area? Seats will get redone and detailed and I think the cockpit wall may have an error. The circuit breaker panels look out of place, any comments from the hook guys? The front pylon is a bit goofy, the  slant is a little steep and the vents not there in addition to the SAS sensors. The panels aren't quite right either but is it worth a new pylon? Chief Snake

Chief

Thanks for the update.

The "eyebrow" windows above the pilot and copilot seats on all the As, Cs, and Ds, that I crewed were always clear, not green (as on UH-1s for example).

The forward transmission drip pan was usually removed until just after preflight inspection and prior to flight, still having it installed wouldn't necessarily be wrong., also the contents of the flight control closet are not represented in the kit. This isn't any big deal because the armor plate that could be installed is easily replicated. (I used this on all the birds I crewed because it kept the area cleaner). I don't believe there is a troop commanders jump seat included in the kit and this was an item that all the aircraft I crewed had, again, something easy to replicate. Also I just about have a fic done for the cargo hook roller beam assy.

The Eduard CH-47 PE set in 1/72nd has good representations of the troop seats, if you need the images of them let me know.

Jonathan Primm

I do not envy you Chief.....Goofy?....The whole kits kinda goofy.....I did what I can in the amount of time I have to fix a few things.

The HF antenna and stand offs should have been made to sink in the fuselage deeper.....its going to be a very weak part of the kit.....The kits stand offs ahve the typical half moon design for insertion....I found they sit tighter if you insert them the wrong way.....that is how much 'wiggle' there was ...plus the anrenna stand offs do not have the correct shape at the ends....no insulators....I'm just going to remove the goofy little T's and the ends and drill a small hole for the wires to pass through. I will insatll the antenna's LAST!

I airbrushed all the maintenance walk areas on top....the decals looked a bit too over kill and they would have looked like doo doo!

I used five minute epoxy to mount the completed landing gear units this morning....they should have been made to be LOCKED some how from inside mounting points....I have seen worse....but I doupt they even tested it.

I'm almost ready to apply decals!!!...then do some wearthering. 

The kits decals are very NICE! ( what little I'm using ) I did some testing some with gloss under and others with none and the decals with NO GLOSS had NO silvering...and any tone difference was gone after a top coat of clear flat was applied.....keep in mind that I have been using ONLY the Testors Acryl brands......I love this stuff!...talk about FAST drying time.....if I was using enamels I would need another two weeks at best to complete this baby!

FRANK:

Q: After time out in the field.....did a lot of those smaller factory style markings like 'no step' and other instructions get covered up or never re-applied? ......is there some that definitly should be used...if any?

Thanks!

Chief Snake is working several things. Correcting the front is underway, greenhouse windows (enlarged) will be cast in clear resin, the others, corrected, in clear resin (windshield, bubbles and jettisonable doors) and the center will be cast in the usual tan resin. The missing support structure and detail under the pilots' pedals will be worked in with it. Smaller back wheels pretty much done, have to make the brake calipers. Front wheel done, making brake caliper now. Research on the rear end problem is finished and the station lines identified for redo and reskin of the aft end. The sail has some errors, vent located in wrong spot and top rear is not curved properly but that will be easy to change. Once the rear shape issues are knocked out the aft end will get a detail package and the remainder of the cabin will get upgrades. Standard M-24 weapons mounts will be made, guns are already done. Need some input from hookers about the front xmsn case. How often was it exposed in the cockpit walkway area? Seats will get redone and detailed and I think the cockpit wall may have an error. The circuit breaker panels look out of place, any comments from the hook guys? The front pylon is a bit goofy, the  slant is a little steep and the vents not there in addition to the SAS sensors. The panels aren't quite right either but is it worth a new pylon?

Chief Snake

Thanks Frank!

Gino..I did recieve a few....always replied.....hmmmmm.

Try again ....do a test at  ttkje@comcast.net

My buddies laser etcher was sent to the factory last week for repairs.....he says who knows how long till he gets it back.

I wonder if Chief snake has anything close to production for the 1/35 Hook?

Seeya!

 

Troy,

Have you received any of my emails?  Couple have bounced back.  Checking on the status of the troops seats.

Troy,

You'd asked about the wear on the rotor blades... here's a couple fairly typical examples:

Hope this helps...

Take care,

Frank

......and I thought that you didn't like me anymore......

Hey thanks a lot!.....phew! you saved me about an hours of preping tonight.....gonna do the main OD coverage tonight......I'll save some very minor/small chipping for around the comon accsess areas....fuel satations, control accsess at the nose and especially the engine covers....where they seperate.....only because it makes a model look more like it worn down.  No real shinny metal though.

Papa-Echo-64 wrote:

YUP! Hey Frank.....you don't send me fowers.....you don't write me love songs..... Are you getting e-mail?? If you did or do.....you might as well post your answers to my questions here so all can benifit from your HOOK wisdom.....or not? Yep....Thats what Trump did.......is that even close to what they have on the A Hooks??

Troy,

You're right, I don't send you "fowers" anymore!  hahaha

I just went and checked and saw your email....   about the paint chipping.... honestly Troy, most Crew Chiefs and/or Flight Engineers who were breathing, saw to it that paint chipping was covered with some shade of OD pretty soon after noticing it.      Most didn't like getting 20 minute lectures from pilots who were younger than they were, and MOST didn't have to because they kept THEIR ship in order.     Yes, it may have been a marriage of 30 shades of OD,  but "shiney" metal attracts unwanted attention.

Different shaded access panels or sections of skin were not uncommon to Chinooks in Vietnam, in fact, they were normal.     My suggestion is just to study the pictures of which ever aircraft you're building it as and weather it like that.... but ALL Chinooks had the tell tail oil slick underneath the engines... that was pretty much the common bond they all shared.

Sad to say.... what Trump did is not how the "A" was.    The top rim was pretty much a reflection of the bottom rim... see photo:

(also, note the position of the Dipole base.... on the kit, you can cover the Dipole hole that's closest to the hatch, and mount it to the empty dipole postion that's closest to the cockpit)

Hope this helps a little... I apologize for not checking my mail sooner.

Take care,

Frank

YUP!

Hey Frank.....you don't send me fowers.....you don't write me love songs.....

Are you getting e-mail??

If you did or do.....you might as well post your answers to my questions here so all can benifit from your HOOK wisdom.....or not?

Yep....Thats what Trump did.......is that even close to what they have on the A Hooks??

Hi Troy,

Speaking of the #1 Gun position/escape hatch... did I understand you to say that Trumpeter has the panel lines for the wide space at the bottom of the opening like that?      

Take care,

Frank

I first started with the thin cutting wheel....not sure what dremel number it iz but its the thin one out of the two sizes they have and then used a small diamond round shaft out of a aftermarket dremel cutting set I picked up on eebay a few years back to get it closer to the window outline.

Hope that helps.

I remember years back when I did all that kind of work with just a number 11 blade. I go through a lot less band aids these days!

Papa-Echo-64 wrote:

There.....I feel a lot better Thanks Frank and Josh! Josh....If you are talking about the side 'gunners' window .....I simply used a dremel on the side window to about 1/16th of an inch then used files down to the recessed lines.....not sure now if that pattern Trump used is correct for ANY CH47 but I used the lines anyways.  I basicly cut the hell out of it not wanting to keep the window portion. Frank....It should be finished mid to late this week.....The contest is April 8th.  Thanks for the idea....I'll check out that site.  I have ALL weekend to go nucking futz! NO WIFE NOISE and the kids are gone with her till late Sunday......YIPPIE!!!!!Usually I would have my Ho's over for a big party and all.....but I gotz me a Helo to build ...know what I'm laying down bro?

What bit did you use?

There.....I feel a lot better

Thanks Frank and Josh!

Josh....If you are talking about the side 'gunners' window .....I simply used a dremel on the side window to about 1/16th of an inch then used files down to the recessed lines.....not sure now if that pattern Trump used is correct for ANY CH47 but I used the lines anyways.  I basicly cut the hell out of it not wanting to keep the window portion.

Frank....It should be finished mid to late this week.....The contest is April 8th.  Thanks for the idea....I'll check out that site. 

I have ALL weekend to go nucking futz! NO WIFE NOISE and the kids are gone with her till late Sunday......YIPPIE!!!!!Usually I would have my Ho's over for a big party and all.....but I gotz me a Helo to build ...know what I'm laying down bro?

Papa-Echo-64 wrote:

Hey!.....I didn't post this for my health! ......I want my share of oooohs, ahhhs, cool dude and nice work man! ......gee!

      "... didn't post this for my health"... 

Just got to see your update... your construction is coming right along looks like, have you decided on a name yet?     It's great to see this kind of activity... might even be seeing a finished one here before too long, aye troy? ;-)

Their are some pretty intense designs in the nose-art section of chinookhelicopter.com site, but it fails to cover any follow-up aircraft details about them.     I like the one "Good Vibrations"!

Take care,

Frank

Great work Troy. What did you use to cut your doors out? Do you have a picture of the finished inside?

Hey!.....I didn't post this for my health! ......I want my share of oooohs, ahhhs, cool dude and nice work man! ......gee!

THE ROTORS WILL FOLD!!!

Yup!  I just used a small round file and opended up the holes on the Rotor mounts. The 'actuator' snaps into place so I may just use small brass rods for that so that can be locked into place when the rotors are in the standard position.  [ I know that Hook blades where not folded very often....its stricky for shelf space and the rotor mounts where not solid plastic...they are in two parts otherwise I would have used brass rod so the blades would have been removable kinda like the real ones. ]

This kit really is starting to bug me!.....IF you do not want the intake screens on... you'll need to do a lot of work to get the engine housing to look right at the front.  I wish when they called this thing an A Hook they would have given the modeler the right parts to do so.....otherwise they should have just released it later as the D...... CH47-A...my

The canopy was masked inside and out ...using clear shelving contact paper... then painted dark grey on the inside ...then the material was removed from the inside then the canopy was glued into position today.

I do love how the engine mounts fit snugly into the fuselage....very tight with no filling needed.

Crapy parts options but what they do give you....they fit NICELY!

The ramp needed some work. I scratched rear plate and cut the upper door down so that it would fit and look as if it was just in the stowed position.  The parts they give you as the three or two walking or wheeled assist extensions really stink....If you want to install them as folded up on top of the ramp you will need to modify and add some detail....I'm leaving mine off like you see in most pics anyways. The horrible but even seam lines where the ramp top fits into the bottom I decided to fill...its just too obvious....I wish that Trump would have had it so the top section extended over the lower section...the fit would have been almost seamless and a lot easier to take care of.

Ooops!  yep....that what I was talking about.

Thank you Mr. Primm.

Papa-Echo-64 wrote:

RODS....Frank posted an example here once but if you have the Squadron book on hooks you can see that that the early A models Hook had a few less FM antenna mounting rods on the left side.....basicly  this kit is all D from the rear pylon section foward.

FM antennas are on the bottom, I think you may be referring to the HF antenna standoffs that were located on the left side of the aircraft above the cabin windows

Jonathan Primm

I'm pretty they do....they have three rotating racks with squadron books and two shelves full as well.....your gonna love this place.

I need to get that book. Does galaxy have any? Keep us posted on todays painting.

SWEET!

I like it!  Thanks!

 

Papa-Echo-64 wrote:

For 1/35 scale....I wonder if a fine material could be added to a flat black paint for the effect?

 

You could always use my anti-slip for armor technique using Rust-Oleum texture paint, then paint it black.

Check it out here.

 

That is what I will be doing.

Thanks Frank!

Did ALL Hooks keep that step here pattern and if so....was it allways a stripe formation or could it be a solid black?

For 1/35 scale....I wonder if a fine material could be added to a flat black paint for the effect?

Thanks Josh!

I pre-painted the OD around the cockpit and side windows so that later I would not need to put tape on clear or fragile parts.

RODS....Frank posted an example here once but if you have the Squadron book on hooks you can see that that the early A models Hook had a few less FM antenna mounting rods on the left side.....basicly  this kit is all D from the rear pylon section foward.

Ready for painting today folks! pics to come.

Papa-Echo ...out.....beep!

 

Great work Troy. I am never going to remember all this info from Frank. Good thing its all logged on the forum. What mounts are you talking about that you had to remove? Or I can just wait until the 8th and see her myself!
     Oh.. and nobody rivet counts here!