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How I Build Dioramas(step-by-step)

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Posted by JohnReid on Wednesday, February 22, 2006 6:59 AM
Someone asked me to repeat this post again;

Weathering boards,again
After the boards are washed with 2 coats of nimbus grey and 2 coats of raw umber,make pin holes for nail positions on the boards(any pattern you like)If the wood is too hard you can brush on some clear water to soften the wood.Use a pointed grafiteHB pencil or softer and twist tip of pencil into the pin holes.Fill each hole with watery burnt sienna so that the wood swells back again and the pin holes will disappear.Shade edges with medium grey pastel.Randomly shade light grey into the centers of some boards.Flick on some watery raw umber with your trusty toothbrush.If things get too brownish shade again with light grey pastels or flick on some nimbus grey.Play around with it until you are satisfied with your antiqueing technique.There is no need to overcoat but if you do, use matte acrylic spray.Personally I leave it as is, as I find that the raw wood looks the best.My diorama will be going in a plexiglass case at the museum so I am not worried about dust or crud buildup on the exterior.Cheers! John.
__________________
It has been said that the difference between a "pilot" and an "aviator" is that a pilot is a technician,and an aviator is an artist in love with flight.
JohnReid (Aviator)
Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Wednesday, February 22, 2006 6:30 AM
Smaller scales
I was just over on the www.wwi-models.org website and it never ceases to amaze me how much I admire the work you guys do in the smaller scales.I have done ships in 1/72 but for some reason I just cant seem to get my mind around doing airplanes in that scale.I guess we all have our niche in modeling, where we feel the most comfortable.Beleive me I have tried a few times and have never yet completed a model.I will go to a show and say Wow! I would reall y like to do this,buy a kit,give it a try and run out of patience,put it aside and go back to 1/16th.
Biplanes in 1/72or 1/48 are such little jewels of craftsmanship in my opinion.The level of detail that you guys go to is unbeleivable."Modeling for God" seems to be routine.At these scales a diorama is not even necessary, as the work can stand on its own as a testament to craftsmanship.All modeling is "just putting a bunch of parts togrther".Wood ,plastic,kit or scratch,whatever it doesnt really matter.The art is in HOW you put them together.When I look at a piece of art, I can feel the love that has been put into it.I guess it is just the way we artists communicate.It is in the "paying attention to detail" where the secret lies, in my opinion.Most people go through life ignoring the beauty all around them.Artists dont,they see beauty in the details.Most people really never see a flower,seeing takes time.We as artists,take the time.Like someone said ,dont look for miracles they are all around you.Models ,especially in the smaller scales, are the results of artists/craftsmen taking the time to really get to know there subjects.Like a flower they are easily overlooked but take the time and really look and you can feel the power of the creativity that went into them.Cheers! John.
______________
Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Tuesday, February 21, 2006 9:30 AM

Jenny in her jig.

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Tuesday, February 21, 2006 8:26 AM
I have been working on my antiqueing techniques which is great fun.I have found that the subtle use of baking soda gives a real cool look to rusty surfaces.The secret seems to be,as with most acrylic techniques,the ample use of water in the mix.Not enough water and your brush quickly becomes unusable.When I was teaching how to paint bird sculptures to my students, one of the hardest things to get across was, the use of lots of water to keep your paint transparent and how to build up layers of thin paint to achieve depth.When I speak of washes I mean paint of almost a skim milk consistancy.You dont want any opaque layers blotting out your previous work.Example:On a metal surface you have applied your black gesso,your thin rust layers,then your baking soda corrosion but you decide that a nice raw umber wash would tone things down and bring your colors together.A little too heavy a wash here and all your hard work will be ruined.As one of my fellow bird carvers used to say "when in doubt,thin it out".Cheers! John.
Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Monday, February 20, 2006 12:57 PM

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Monday, February 20, 2006 12:46 PM
While I am on the subject of painting with acrylics here is a birdcarving that I did 10 years ago.I call the piece "Sacked" in honour to all the linebackers in the NFL.
Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Monday, February 20, 2006 10:22 AM
Dioramas are basically an assortment of parts put together in a creative way.Some are totally scratchbuilt, others are not.My personal view is that this really doesnt matter,I have done both.What is important is the viewer of the diorama.The artistic goal is to get the viewer emotionally involved with your piece so that they can relate to it and be moved in some way.If they can look at your piece and years later recall the experience, then you have accomplished your goal.
As far as making the parts are concerned I use a multi-media appraoach.I will use anything that works to accomplish my goal.Wood ,plastic,metal,popsicle sticks,tongue depressors etc etc....
When I am in the stores I am constantly looking for anything that may work in my dioramas.I have found greats things in dressmakers shops,dollar stores,hobby shops,hardware stores,bookstores,fabric stores,on and on.Then of course there is the internet ,where the sky is the limit for artistic ideas.
As far as custom made parts are concerned,good research is the key.If you can build a model you can make a diorama.I am the worlds worst carpenter(just ask my wife)I have no interest in it and it shows.But if you are able to build models, plastic or otherwise and have the interest and a creative mind,be prepared to have some fun.
In the pages of this thread ,I have covered a lot of the how tos, so I wont repeat it here.Really, what it all boils down to is, just doing it.Forget fear of making mistakes cause there are none.There is a learning curve that all artists/craftsman have to go through so we just have to accept that.If you have the interest you are already 99% of the way there.Why dont you join us in this wonderful adventure? Cheers! John
Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Monday, February 20, 2006 10:00 AM
Lighting/1/16th Tractors

Yesterday I finally finished off the Woodworkers workshop and installed the woodstove and its piping.On the workbench I have 2 things going on,a laminated prop that is geeting its final coats of varnish and wood strip ungoing a bending process with clamps and a jig.I really enjoy looking through the windows especially from the darkened hangar.
I will try to take some more pics in the next few days so you guys can get an idea of where I am now in this build.
I have started working on the hangar lighting fixtures of which I will need at least 12 (maybe more)When they are finished I will temporarily install them and put the airplane ,cars and furniture in and see where the light falls and then adjust their positions accordingly.
Around Xmas time I picked up some small brass bells (same as in the Albatros diorama) and am scratchbuilding the fixtures using brass tube,washers etc...I will paint the finished assemblies black or grey.The lighting intensity will be regulated with a reostat.I will have the modules on seperate circuits with on off switches so I can light up different sections for picture taking purposes.While at the museum ,I dont think that they would bother with this aspect, it is one of the things that I have always personally enjoyed,looking from the outside into a warm enviroment.(Something like you see on the beer commercials at Christmas time.)
I have a question for you guys,do you know how airport runways or fields were maintained during the Winter .I know here in Canada a lot of aircraft were equipped with skis.Was any of the snow removed and if so, how was it removed?In one of the future buildings I would like to put an old tractor in it that could have been used for maintenance around the airport removing snow etc..It will be a 34 Deere with a square rad and steel wheels,which I will modify to an earlier date..Earlier models in the mid 20s were similar and a few well placed tarps and restricted viewing windows should take care of any major differences.
If anyone happens to know if 1/16th mid 20s tractors are available ,please let me know.
Cheers! John.
__________________
It has been said that the difference between a "pilot" and an "aviator" is that a pilot is a technician,and an aviator is an artist in love with flight.
JohnReid (Aviator)
Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Sunday, February 19, 2006 12:31 PM
A few tips when painting with Acrylics
Here are a few painting tips that I would hand out to my students when they were painting with acrylics.They are in no particular order.
-when handling your piece attach a handle or wear cotton gloves
-to remove skin oils,grease etc spray piece with windex(with ammonia) and dab dry.
-best light source is daylight otherwise use a combination of incandescent and flourescent.(one part cool flourescent,two parts warm incandescent.
-use old film canisters and save a little of each color you mix (in case of accidents)
-keep a running log of how you achieved your colors and the sequence in with you painted the piece.
-make up a log book and keep a sample of each color you mix .Remember acryilics dry darker than what you mix when wet.(like latex wall paint)
-Mix up twice as much paint as you think you will need, because if you run out of a paint mix you may have a hell of a job mixing the exact same color again.
-A good all round paint mix seems to be a mix of JoSonja and Liquitex(in the 2 oz jars)Jo Sonja tends to flatten the finish while liquitex tends to harden the finish and add sheen or luster.
-JoSonja satin finishing varnish can be added to JoSonja paints to add durability and luster to an otherwise flat surface.
-flow medium or water tension breaker added to water will help paint flow off the tip of your brush.
-To warm up white add raw umber
-to warm up black add burnt umber
-never use black or white straight out of the tube.
-always buy the best brushes that you can afford.
-carefully clean and point up your brushes after each use(I use Ivory Snow soap)
-Mix your colors on a piece of glass with a white paper towel under the glass.
I have many other tips but they apply mostly to painting textured carvings.
Cheers! John.
Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Sunday, February 19, 2006 8:45 AM
Antiqueing a chrome or nickel surface
I hope that I am not boring you guys with all this antiqueing of surfaces but I just want to share what I have discovered up until now.
To antique a chrome or nickel suface:
-immerse the part in household ammonia till all the chrome disappears of the part
-take an old toothbrush and scrape off any remnants
-deburr any mold lines
-paint part with 50/50 black gesso-water mix
-paint on one thin coat of acrylic silver (let some of the black undercoat show through)
-when dry,dab on the foamy burnt sienna(Dabbing is the secret to an authentic looking surface)
-Dab on as many coats as you like but let some of the silver show through.

Remember work with very thin flat acrylic paint.You want to build up transparent layers not cover up all your hard work.Hey! this is fun.
Cheers! John.
Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Sunday, February 19, 2006 8:32 AM

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Sunday, February 19, 2006 8:20 AM
How to make any surface rusty and corroded
This seems to work on any surface plastic,wood,metal whatever.
The secret is in surface preporation.It works even on a highly polished enamel surface.
Prepare the surface by sanding off the shiny new surface with 600 or higher sandpaper.You want to dull the surface not create scratches.Rub until all the shine is gone.Next paint the surface with a 50/50 gesso -water mix and dry with a hair dryer if you like.Dont set the hair dryer too close to the surface but just blow the warm air across it.(you can always just air dry it if you want)
Now if you want to put some color on, put it on in thin layers (at least a 50/50 mix,even more water if you are using tube colors)Dont completely cover the gesso surface with a solid new color if you want a real antique look,some of the undercoat should show through.
Now the fun part.Take some watered down burnt sienna and using an old brush and a washboard surface vigorosly scrub the paint until it foams up.Then take this foamy paint,bubbles and all and dap it onto the surface.Dry with a hair dryer and repeat as many times as necessary to get that nice rusty and corroded looks.Works great on old barrells,oil cans,engines ,cars whatever needs antiqueing.Take your time and have fun,I sure am. Cheers! John.
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Posted by JohnReid on Saturday, February 18, 2006 7:10 AM
The paint finish on most diecasts is enamel, I beleive.So I guess it would be wise to take some precautions with the paint dust.The composition of the metal contains no lead,which is good news.
To take the shine off the enamel paint I use 600 grit sandpaper to dull it down to a flat finish.Acrylics seem to stick well to a sanded surface,if not mix in a little gesso.The surface that I am presently dealing with is mostly black so I have it easy and I am using black gesso.Gesso comes in black ,white, grey,and burnt umber.
Chaulk pastels come in all colors and stick really well to a sanded surface.I use those soft makeup brushes that women use when applying makeup or cops use when dusting for fingerprints.They come in all sizes so you will have to experiment a bit here.The more you load up the brush the more color will be transfered.Try to build the color up in subtle layers.
To grind up the pastels ,I use ordinary sandpaper and dunk my brush into the fine dust. Cheers! John.
Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Saturday, February 18, 2006 6:52 AM

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Posted by JohnReid on Saturday, February 18, 2006 6:04 AM
Weathering diecasts
I have been experimenting with doing a lot of heavy weathering on diecasts recently.It is really a lot of fun although it seems a little funny creating something by destroying something else.(like a really cool paintjob)Anyway,
it has got me to thinking about using diecasts in dioramas.There is a lot of potential here for those who like dioramas but havent got the time to scratchbuild everything.
There are some really nice WW2 fighters in 1/18th scale being produced now, and I am sure that with time there will be some WW1s offered.They are also making more figures in 1/18th scale as well and then you have your pick if you would like to add cars to your diorama.
I know that there are some WW1 diecasts offered in smaller scales and that would be a great place to start.Put them in a nice dioramic setting,weather them as little or as much as you want and for minimum time and effort ,your now a dioramist.You could rig the biplanes as little or as much as you want depending on your storyline.With a little imagination the sky is the limit.

The hardest hurtle to get over is to take that nice shiny airplane, that you have paid multi bucks for and screw up the surface.Once you get over this the rest is easy.Over the next couple of days I will offer a tutorial on what works best for me.I hope that I am leaving you guys who are interested in dioramas but have not yet started, less and less reasons not to get on with it..Cheers! John. ( P.S. try to find a source of damaged or 2nds if you can.)
__________________
It has been said that the difference between a "pilot" and an "aviator" is that a pilot is a technician,and an aviator is an artist in love with flight.
JohnReid (Aviator)
Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Friday, February 17, 2006 9:56 AM
The 2 pics above give you guys an idea of how I had originallu planned to display my first 2 dioramas.The badly out of focus pic is the Nieuport dio in an old TV cabinet.Not bad but too low to the ground .
The 2nd pic shows the Albatros diorama on top of the cabinet.I had planned to make a nice walnut base for it to sit on and install a motor that would turn at 1 or 2 rpm.
None of this will be happening now that they are going to the museum as they will be making their own cabinets to house them.
I have seen a nice idea on the EAA website for displaying dioramas.The diorama sits at an angle to the viewer see;
http://www.airventuremuseum.org/virtual/warbirds2.asp
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Posted by JohnReid on Friday, February 17, 2006 9:10 AM

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Posted by JohnReid on Friday, February 17, 2006 8:57 AM

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Posted by JohnReid on Wednesday, February 15, 2006 9:58 AM
Ideas for dioramas/Thinking outside the box
In Shep Paines book "How to Build Dioramas" (2nd edition)at the back of the book Chapter 16 he has added a section on mirrors,forced perspective and other special effects.This is what I mean about thinking outside the box.His HMS VICTORY gun deck with the moving ship outdside the portholes is another great example.This is where the real fun of diorama making exists.Trying to expand your creative horizons.It really isnt that hard if you have an open mind and a kids sense of play and go where your interests take you.

I have an idea that I am working on at present that really is someone elses idea that I am taking one step further.When I was a bird carver I would often find myself looking at others work and saying "now why didnt I think of that".That is when I knew that I was somehow blocked in that field of creativity.I think that it had something to do with not understanding the subject completely.Since I have taken up diorama making the opposite is true.The ideas seem to be everywhere.I know that I will never be able to do everything at my age (I need a couple more lifetimes for that)But I sure am having fun at 64 ,being a kid again.

I guess what I am trying to say is that when you are on the right track you will know it.If you have what you think is a great creative idea,go for it.Otherwise it could be lost forever. Cheers! John.
__________________
It has been said that the difference between a "pilot" and an "aviator" is that a pilot is a technician,and an aviator is an artist in love with flight.
JohnReid (Aviator)
Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Wednesday, February 15, 2006 8:41 AM
The above pic shows the diorama with all the lights on, including the outside lighting along the backwall.

Yesterday on the current diorama ,I have just about finished the woodworkers woodshop.I now have to remove the backwall again and plan to hookup the heating stove ,as well as glueing down a few odds and ends, that are not now accessable.
I have definitely decided to add an engine shop to the L/H rear corner of the building next to the W/C structure.It will be a 9X11 modular add-on containing the 2nd OX5 engine undergoing a re-build.I plan to have lots of windows and a viewing panel in the roof,so it should be an interesting addition.I have begun the floor plan and research but I will wait till summer to build it outside in the nice weather.This modular idea sure allows for the maximum flexibility when scheduling add-ons.
In the meantime I will finish the lighting,building the fixtures and installing the wiring .Then it will be on to finishing #1 Jenny,the Canuck.Next Fall and Winter I plan to build the 2nd Jenny,the JN 4D and maybe start on the radio shack/operations building. (Man plans,God laughs!)
Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Wednesday, February 15, 2006 8:04 AM
v
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Posted by JohnReid on Tuesday, February 14, 2006 9:23 AM
Sorry about the quality of the above pic.I think I forgot to put on my glasses or maybe I was just hung
This pic shows just how simple it is to lite up this type of diorama.The 2 Xmas 5W bulbs are at the center of the roof and the other cords run to individual picture lites at the side wall where I wanted to depict the rising sun.This arrangement will be simplified as I just wanted to see how it looked before cutting and splicing the wires.The outside of the sheathing boards were painted black to stop light from shining through the thin boards.Those unpainted panels are removable panels used for picture taking purposes.Although it is hard to see the side panel has aluminium foil panels glued to the side to deflect the light onto the white painted shadow box container.(in this case an old TV cabinet) to be cont.....
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Posted by JohnReid on Tuesday, February 14, 2006 8:41 AM

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Posted by JohnReid on Monday, February 13, 2006 8:43 AM
The first of the last two pics shows the same overall setting(or stage) with just normal room lighting, plus the light from 2 overhead 5W Xmas lites, located behind the eagle poster in a box painted irredescent white for maximum reflection.
This makes for a nice closed set but you still get the feeling that the diorama is enclosed in a box and quite flat in appearance.
The next pic shows the diorama with all the bells and whistles installed.Note how the light shining through the boards opens up the whole scene and creates lot of interesting shadows.Note how the garage door changes color from one side to the other depending upon how the light falls on it.Although a lot of detail is lost in the shadows the overall effect is quite pleasing. to be cont.....

For my American friends who maybe interested, the sign above the garage doors under the roundel says "That Liberty Shall Not Perish From The Earth"
Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Monday, February 13, 2006 8:03 AM

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Monday, February 13, 2006 7:46 AM
 Montreals finest wrote:

  hey mr. Reid

was just checking out pics of your handy-work and i feel you should be using my board name.

your work is outstanding!!!!!!!!

a fellow montrealer

andrew

p.s. more svp



Thanks Andrew,I am glad that you are enjoying it.
Cheers! John.
Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by JohnReid on Monday, February 13, 2006 7:32 AM

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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Posted by Montreals finest on Sunday, February 12, 2006 2:46 PM

  hey mr. Reid

was just checking out pics of your handy-work and i feel you should be using my board name.

your work is outstanding!!!!!!!!

a fellow montrealer

andrew

p.s. more svp

the only place to go when your down,...is back up!
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Posted by JohnReid on Sunday, February 12, 2006 8:39 AM
The above 2 pics are of the basic Neiuport diorama before the furniture installation.
The top pic is taken in natural indoor daylite, with the diorama placed toward the window.
The bottom pic is the same setup, except that this corner of the hangar was in shade.
It is totally made from bare (unsealed)pine and birchwood.The individual boards were painted with watery washes on Nimbus Grey(Jo Sonja gouache acrylic)before assembly.The doors are a French Blue and White mix.After assembly it was finger flicked(sprayed with an old toothbrush) with watery Raw Umber and then finished with various Black,Grey,and Brown pastels.The signs are taken directly off the net,sprayed with laquer,glued to thin veneer and hung with nails.The wood is not finished further in any way.(left unsealed)
There are no visible lighting fixtures in this piece.The overhead lighting is supplied by two standard 5W xmas bulbs contained in the little box behind the poster of the eagle in the rafters.All other lighting is external between the sheathing and the walls of the shadow box. to be cont......
Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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  • From: Montreal/Canada
Posted by JohnReid on Sunday, February 12, 2006 7:48 AM

Guide my hand in your work today.JWRR. My goal in life is to be as good a person as my dog already thinks I am. My Photoshop: http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/JohnReid/
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