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1/18 scale Lockheed Martin F-16CJ Fighting Falcon Block 52 HAF conversion & scratchbuild

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55 replies
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  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Bournemouth UK
Posted by Luftwoller on Thursday, October 15, 2009 3:29 PM

Stunning as usuall Nick. Im so going to have to give the pastel wash a go. Great work.

...Guy

..'Your an embarrassment to the human genus, makes me ashamed to call myself Homo'.
  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Thursday, October 15, 2009 10:30 AM

Great job, as always Nick!

And the exhaust looks just fantastic! Keep 'em comin' - and have a nice day

Pawel

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Greece
Posted by Nick_Karatzides on Wednesday, September 23, 2009 9:24 PM

Thank you all Smile

  • Member since
    August 2009
Posted by BlueSky75 on Monday, August 17, 2009 2:30 AM
 Nick_Karatzides wrote:


however this 1/18 F-16 toy has almost unlimited possibilities of becoming a high detailed scale model.



WOW!! I take my hat off. You are so right! Add some working lights moving control surface and all you need is a working engine..haha......can't wait to read more updates. Thank you for showing all the tips. It's really beneficial.

Ed- Where will this end? http://www.5FtGiraffe.com/
Ed - Where will this end? http://www.5FtGiraffe.com/
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: NYC, USA
Posted by waikong on Friday, August 14, 2009 11:57 AM

Like everyone said, fanatastic work. Can't wait to see more.

  • Member since
    April 2008
Posted by Von Alfalfa on Friday, August 14, 2009 9:53 AM

I'm just speechless!

I'm gonna hire you for making the interior for my Nichimo E13A "Jake".

Absolutely AMAZING talent you got there! Can't wait for more updates! MORE MORE!!

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Cleveland, OH
Posted by RadMax8 on Friday, August 14, 2009 8:40 AM
Glad to hear you had a fun time on holiday! I can't wait for more of your master modeling!
  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Greece
Posted by Nick_Karatzides on Thursday, August 13, 2009 11:50 AM

@ Daywalker, I'll try to send updates as soon as I'll work on this project. To be honest, I'm working on the 1/18 scale JT-9T autogyro project too and I need to finish this little bird first. I believe that the F-16 project will take long time, till I'll be ready to place it into my showcase

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Tuesday, July 14, 2009 10:48 PM
Hurry back Nick!  I will miss the updates on this stunning piece.

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
Posted by I make stuff on Tuesday, July 14, 2009 2:17 PM

Where are you, Nick, my mother in law is visiting Paros, IIRC, for a couple weeks.

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Greece
Posted by Nick_Karatzides on Tuesday, July 14, 2009 7:43 AM

It's time to charge batteries and enjoy Greek beaches under the hot Mediterranean sun. CU with more 1/18 scale F-16 updates, after the summer holidays folks and I wish you best summer.


Time to enjoy a nice, cool Greek summer. Time to recharge my batteries, so please let me pluged on the "lazy days by the beach" mode…



  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Bournemouth UK
Posted by Luftwoller on Sunday, July 12, 2009 3:24 AM

Nick, that U/C bay is looking really sharp. I cant wait to see it with a bit of paint on it.

Frank, Im pretty sure that the stuff is similar to car body filler. A lot of that stuff is eiher 2 part polyester or epoxy, doesnt shrink and is easy to sand. I did a quick search and this company makes what you might want. Its about half way down and is called SMC Bonding compound

http://www.u-pol.com/countries/en/content/products/upbdyfil/all.htm

...Guy

..'Your an embarrassment to the human genus, makes me ashamed to call myself Homo'.
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Saturday, July 11, 2009 11:37 PM
OK, I got it now!  The epoxy paste is the poltester filler.  Thanks for the clarification, and yes- I shall go back and look closely at the photos and captions before giving it a try.  Thanks again! Approve [^]

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Greece
Posted by Nick_Karatzides on Saturday, July 11, 2009 10:04 PM

 Daywalker wrote:
Thanks Nick. Sorry, but I am still unfamiliar with "epoxy paste".  Is there a brand name to look for on this?  I would like to try some of your techniques with it.
I cannot propose a brand name because the local market in South Central Wisconsin you live might be much different from my local market. I think that if you ask your crafts or hardware store for "polyester filler" or "polyester putty" or "prime multifiller" and explain why you need it for, they'll give you the best. I recomend to try the smalest canister first, test it and if it suits you and you think that this matterial could be used for scale modeling, try bigger canister next time.

Keep in mind that the chemical reaction after mixing the filler with the catalyst hardener, produces some heat that possibly effect on thin plastic parts, so test it first before try it on your scale model. I dont think that the produced heat is more than Fahrenheit 110, but better watchout.

PS. Read the "CHAPTER II – Air intake tube construction" found on the 1st page of this thread to have a look how I used this matterial to form the model's air intake tube, how the putty reacts, how you can shape it etc.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Saturday, July 11, 2009 9:42 PM
Thanks Nick.  Sorry, but I am still unfamiliar with "epoxy paste".  Is there a brand name to look for on this?  I would like to try some of your techniques with it.

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Greece
Posted by Nick_Karatzides on Saturday, July 11, 2009 9:26 PM
 Daywalker wrote:
This really is incredible to watch!  Your workmanship and photography are nothing short of spectacular.  Could you elaborate on the epoxy cream?  It looks like a wonderful medium to work in. Thumbs Up [tup]
As I wrote before, I prefer to use epoxy putty (or polyester filler with fiberglass grains for special purposes) instead of normal scale modeling putty, to close gaps or build new items, because:
  • It becomes solid rock within only few minutes or seconds,
  • it does not shrink and does not crack after months or years,
  • you can pour to any shape that you want but you need to work fast because as soon as you mix it with catalyst cream arpox 5%, you have limited time before becoming solid rock,
  • you can also put additional layers of epoxy or polyester filler to build up,
  • you can sand it, you can drill it, you can use any type of scale modeling glue, any type of primer or enamel / acrylic paint on it with no problem and finaly
  • can be purchased at any good crafts store into 250ml, 500ml, 1lt (comes with a tube of catalyst hardener) or biger canisters and if you can't find it, fear not and try your local decent hardware store,
  • it is cheaper than dirt - estimated prices are £3 to £10 depending the canister size, the quality, if contains fiberglass grains for maximum strenght etc.
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/1294/image0009.jpg
Remember that epoxy materials are dangerous when breath or shalow and could result skin, eyes or lungs problems or even cancer when used for long period with no precaution measures. Always keep in mind, that a powerful vacuum system to suck away the epoxy dust should be used all time to keep the workbench area clean while sanding or milling epoxy or resin materials. Using an issued breathing mask and a pair of surgery latex gloves to prevent dust contact with lungs and fingers while sanding or milling epoxy, is also an important matter that you should seriously take care of! My recomendation is to also wear an overall working suit (as I do) to keep your clothes dust free while sanding epoxy. Some people might find it too much, but I wouldn't like to bring epoxy dust & grains from my work bench into living room and my beloved.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Saturday, July 11, 2009 8:25 PM
This really is incredible to watch!  Your workmanship and photography are nothing short of spectacular.  Could you elaborate on the epoxy cream?  It looks like a wonderful medium to work in. Thumbs Up [tup]

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Greece
Posted by Nick_Karatzides on Saturday, July 11, 2009 7:13 PM

Starting to place cables, actuators, fractional DC motors, hydraulic lines, securing hooks & stuff into the model's main landing gear bay. It may look quite empty now, but everything will be in place and look realistic as the project continues.

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Found into my old sparebox, a cracked & damaged 1/48 scale fire extinguisher could be also be upgraded to become the metal oval shaped tank found into the main landing gear bay, known as the Halon 1301 (also known as Bromotrifluoromethane CBrF3, which is a an organic halide to provide fuel cell inerting to protect the fuel system from explosions due to combat threats) reservoir. Filling the gap with epoxy cream, sticking it on a nail and spin it with the Dremel tool against different types of sandpapers was enough to make it look like the real one.

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  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Western Australia
Posted by Lloydscale on Thursday, July 9, 2009 7:24 AM
Stunning. And I thought adding the Cutting edge parapack tail to the Tamiya 1/32 kit would be a big job. Not anymore.Banged Head [banghead]
  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Bournemouth UK
Posted by Luftwoller on Thursday, July 9, 2009 7:01 AM

Nick, this build is most definately a stunner. You must have huge stocks of styrene LOL.

Keep the pics coming, theyre great.

...Guy

..'Your an embarrassment to the human genus, makes me ashamed to call myself Homo'.
  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Misawa Japan
Posted by ilovef-4 on Wednesday, July 8, 2009 7:52 AM
great job coming along nicely. this is going to the most detailed 1/18 aircraft that has been put together in my opinion. keep up the great work. charlie Bow [bow]
Kick the tires and light the fires. Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Greece
Posted by Nick_Karatzides on Wednesday, July 8, 2009 12:24 AM

The air intake case, connected with the lower surface with CA super glue and the huge (approximately 2mm wide) gaps were filled with epoxy cream. I prefer to use epoxy putty (or polyester filler with fiberglass grains for special purposes) instead of normal scale modeling putty, to close gaps or build new items, because:

  • It becomes solid rock within only few minutes or seconds,
  • it does not shrink and does not crack after months or years,
  • you can pour to any shape that you want but you need to work fast because as soon as you mix it with catalyst cream approx 5%, you have limited time before becoming solid rock,
  • you can also put additional layers of epoxy or polyester filler to build up,
  • you can sand it, you can drill it, you can use any type of scale modeling glue, any type of primer or enamel / acrylic paint on it with no problem,
  • can be purchased at any good crafts store into 250ml, 500ml, 1lt (comes with a tube of catalyst hardener) or bigger canisters and if you can't find it, fear not and try your local decent hardware store and finally...
  • it is cheaper than dirt - estimated prices are £3 to £10 depending the canister size, the quality, if contains fiberglass grains for maximum strenght etc.


Keep in mind that the chemical reaction after mixing the filler with the catalyst hardener, produces some heat that possibly effect on thin plastic parts, so test it first before try it on your scale model. I don’t think that the produced heat is more than Fahrenheit 110, but better watchout.

Remember that epoxy materials are dangerous when breath or shallow and could result skin, eyes or lungs problems or even cancer when used for long period with no precaution measures. Always keep in mind, that a powerful vacuum system to suck away the epoxy dust should be used all time to keep the workbench area clean while sanding or milling epoxy or resin materials. Using an issued breathing mask and a pair of surgery latex gloves to prevent dust contact with lungs and fingers while sanding or milling epoxy, is also an important matter that you should seriously take care of! My recommendation is to also wear an overall working suit (as I do) to keep your clothes dust free while sanding epoxy. Some people might find it too much, but I wouldn't like to bring epoxy dust & grains from my work bench into living room and my beloved.





The main landing gear bay basic lines were copied from the T.O manual, lined out with green ink marker and later cut 'n' drilled from white plastic card. Blueprint copies enlarged to 1/18 scale, were used to cut the possessors on exact shape & size and later set into place.









  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Misawa Japan
Posted by ilovef-4 on Monday, July 6, 2009 7:47 AM

Nick, just checking to see where you are at on this great build and how is it coming along. Keep up the great work. Charlie Thumbs Up [tup]

 

Kick the tires and light the fires. Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by IL2windhawk on Sunday, June 28, 2009 2:37 AM
Love the those rivets

  1/32 Revell Duo Discus
  1/32 Revell ASK-21
  1/48 Ardpol SZD-51 Junior
  1/48 Czech Models Grumman Goose
  1/144 FineMolds Millennium Falcon

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Bournemouth UK
Posted by Luftwoller on Friday, June 26, 2009 4:21 PM

Nick, another stunning masterclass. The pin heads for rivets? Simply awesome. Keep it coming....please.

...Guy

..'Your an embarrassment to the human genus, makes me ashamed to call myself Homo'.
  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Misawa Japan
Posted by ilovef-4 on Friday, June 26, 2009 3:18 AM
Great job. Your finished products look life like. I cannot wait to see more pics of your progress on this outstanding build. Keep up the great work. CharlieBow [bow]Bow [bow]Thumbs Up [tup]
Kick the tires and light the fires. Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Canada / Czech Republic
Posted by upnorth on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 5:28 AM

Wow!

It's an honour and privelage to watch such work coming together like this. Thanks for sharing it with us, Nick!

I'll be checking in frequently.

 

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 4:59 AM

Nick, respect!

I like Your approach a lot - You do Your stuff without asking unnecessary questions and we all have something to learn thanks to Your dedication. Just do it, huh? I loved the trick with the ribbon cable. Have fun with Your build, wish You a nice day

Pawel

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Greece
Posted by Nick_Karatzides on Wednesday, June 24, 2009 12:44 AM

Using 0.75mm drill, a single hole opened on the air intake tube, to later host a pitot sensor which is normally can be found just before the engine's intake fan. This drilling should be done now, before connecting the main landing gear bay construction with lower part of F-16's surface and the pitot sensor will be placed later.



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