1/18 scale Tervamaki Engineering JT-9T autogyro

Ah right just a slight misunderstanding there on my part, well anyway I'll have a look at your other stuff, I was actually looking at some of your step by step techniques which I hope to be able to use in my own work, I personally have not scratch built an entire kit, but I have done conversions and I always try to add as much scratch built detail as possible as I have never really used aftermarket products besides decals. I would like to one day scratchbuild a Mig of my own but for now I'm working on all the details of a Mirage 2000 which I have to say I have not had much time for. Do you ever build cold war jet fighters?

Dean30

Fair enough, but don't confuse my compliments with kissing ass

My friend, I did not confuse it. I just said that I prefer to have a thread clean of compliments - after all, compliments & congratulating coments may be sent by PM. As said before, the forums are made for contacting each other and to learn & discuss productively on new techniques that could be useful to our hobby. I mostly prefer a thread limited to matters relating to the construction methodology, questions & recommendations about techniques followed during WIP.

On the other hand, "ass licking" also do happens some times, when a modeler repeatedly contacts with the publisher / editor of a magazine and begs him to publish his article, to satisfy his narcissistic ego and do splurge on other. Since I have seen few moderate modelers use this way as a mean of self satisfaction and overweening ego, this means that it really is possible to happen.

Dean30

I have never seen the subjects you are making

No problem mate, its better late than never. If you are interested for more projects like this one, please allow me propose some of my previously uploaded WIPs - most of them scratchbuilt. They are also uploaded here on FineScale.com. You 'll find that I always try to combine step-by-step building presentation, with useful tips & techniques: Just click on the following thumbnails and have fun.

PS. Do you still believe on option #3, that "...Fine Scale Modeler magazine team members, have never seen my work around their own forum..."? Well, I doubt about it and I find more possible the option #1 that "...I'm not good enough to meet the magazine's quality standards..." or option #2 that "...I'm not the type of scale modeler they would prefer to work with...".

...or simply option #4 about my "great endorsement" comment, as fellow modeler jgeratic very nicely & polite mentioned.

Fair enough, but don't confuse my compliments with kissing ass, as it's not and never will be the case, I have never seen the subjects you are making so they are new to me which is what sparked my interest in looking at what you have made. Do you always scratch build? Or do you ever make kits as well?

Really incredible work. 

As far as being published in the magazine, the general way about it is to submit your article using the link found on the main page.  With the amount you have presented here, it would require several issues to justly cover everything. 

If they haven't contacted you, it could be they already have a ton of articles to choose from.  The subject is also rare, and they have to consider what sells.   Your final comment on editors though isn't a great endorsement.

regards,
Jack

Dean30

Probably the last one, because the your work is easily at the standard of the magazine and the magazine has no specific subject so it's more than likely that they have never seen your work.

I personally believe that I'm not the type of scale modeler they would prefer to work with. It is very unlikely they have never seen samples of my work the last 4-5 years and if actually has happened so, they have failed to spot potential future contributor modelers through this forum lines.

Dean30

I mean look at all the positive comments on the thread there's no shortage of appraisal for your talents.

Flattering applause and positive comments, never meant anything to me. I wouldn't like the following words to be considered as rudeness or ingratitude, but I would prefer the fellow modeler's responses, be limited to matters relating to the construction methodology or any possible questions or recommendations about techniques have followed until now. My personal belief is that the forums are made for contacting each other and to learn & discuss productively on new techniques that could be useful to our hobby. I don't like hearing compliment comments - what's the reason after all?. Flattery doesn't make me happy, that's why I do not answer to any compliment comments. In no way I would consider myself as a highly skilled craftsman - I am just a moderate level scale modeler with same skills as many other person here. In fact, I'm sure there are much better and more talented scale modelers in this forum, than me. Having under consideration all of the above, please from now on, do not say "...bravo...", "...congrats...", "...you are great..." etc. Please do say "...this is not right...", "...you did it wrong...", "...it does not look nice...", so I could spot the mistakes that might escaped my attention and fix them.

Dean30

You should contact them and show them your work.

Well, that would be a joke! They should look out there for new talented builders (if any), they should try 24/7 to spot potential gifted craftsmen through scale model competitions and forum lines and finally, they should submit proposal for cooperation to their future contributors - not the opposite. As for me, I'm too old, too tired, too fuckin' proud to start licking editor's ass, just to watch my work printed on some magazine.

Probably the last one, because the your work is easily at the standard of the magazine and the magazine has no specific subject so it's more than likely that they have never seen your work.

You should contact them and show them your work. I mean look at all the positive comments on the thread there's no shortage of appraisal for your talents.

Dean30

You have an extraordinary talent for making models, you should write a book.

Since we are on Fine Scale Modeler magazine's forum and I had no proposal yet by editor Mr Matthew Usher or any other FineScale Modeler magazine stuff member, that could possibly means that:

• I'm not good enough to meet the magazine's quality standards,
• I'm not the type of scale modeler they would prefer to work with,
• They have never seen my work, possibly because they cannot check every single WIP.

You have an extraordinary talent for making models, you should write a book.

WOW!! Now that, folks, is a how-to!!!!

   BRAVO!  well done

Nick_Karatzides

CHAPTER III – Instrument panel & cockpit construction

The original Tervamaki Engineering JT-9T autogyro instrument panel is not what you would call as "glass cockpit". Actually it does only have just the basic instruments in cockpit to provide the pilot with information about the flight situation, such as height, speed and attitude. Since the JT-8T autogyro is not designed to fly in conditions of poor visibility or night, the main information is available from visual reference outside the aircraft. Of course, many pilots who are lucky enough to own an autogyro, they might add more sophisticated equipment such as CFT screens, HSI - Horizontal Situation Indicator to follow VOR signals, GPS screens, VHF/UHF radio, replace the heading indicator by a GPS-driven computer with wind and glide data etc. The basic instrument panel is consist by:

• An altimeter indicator,
• an ADI - AttituDe Indicator,
• an ASI - Air Speed Indicator,
• a VSI - Vertical Speed Indicator,
• a fuel quantity indicator,
• an engine RPM tachometer,
• an analog clock and
• a magnetic compass.

I started by cutting the main panel shape in plastic and drilled the gauges positions. Using the Corel Photo Paint, I created a colored sketch of the instruments, copy & paste the image into a MS Word new file and print it on a simple A4 page. Meanwhile, I add some detail on the instrument panel, such as rivets made by streached sprue inserted in drilled out holes, knobs etc.

sometimes i'm a stupid.. i have some extra tool and not use it.

Often i scratch cockpit of my planes (or others machines) i have a good high quality printer but never used to prind instruments.

good work on the little helo! 

I tried black paper background (instead of white) & different light conditions and I was surprised on how the model looks like. From now on, black background and low level lighting only...

PS. Please notice that a little sparrow bird is now present on tail fin

Nick

A very fine job.  Your display base is a work of art, as is the autogryo, Bravo

 

*-)] So does this mean you a great model builder that gardens or a great gardener that builds models--never mind it doesn't matter your just great-

As soon as the result was OK, I sprayed over with Humbrol enamel mat coat, to seal the paint and grass, so far. I left it overnight and as soon as the enamel mat coat dried, I add very few light & dust effects with chalk dust. Feel free to check final pictures of the JT-9T autogyro placed on the display base.













Thank you for following this thread and I hope you enjoyed reading this article.

Water based white glue for wood, which becomes transparent when it dries, is just the right for the job. So, I opened a 500 grams canister bought for 2€ only, pick a small quantity, add just few drops of water with a syringe into a small metal container to make the right mixture and finally I applied on the desired areas to be filled with grass & plants, using a wet brush. Because the mixture is enriched with water based glue, it is easy to correct possible mistakes.

As for he grass & plants, I used three different ways:

• From my local hobby shop, I got different colours of static grass, empty them into a plastic box and make a mixture.

• Found into my garden perimeter, I collect few natural stuff, cut and placed into plastic box for such use.

• From my local super market, I got a small wicker broom. If you look closely, you’ll find some very interesting stuff for scale modeling use and dioramas building.

I left it few hours to get harden in order to be sure that the cast wouldn't break when I would try to cut it into desired shape. Meanwhile, I took the soft rubber cup which I used to make the plaster mixture, squized it to break the last hardened plaster left inside, so it would be easier for me to clean it afterwards and prepare it for any future mix. That's the reason this soft rubber cup were used for.





As soon as the plaster cast got harden, cut into shape and the concrete plaques were lined with a scriber, I used my airbrush to paint it. After the polished wooden frame was covered with masking tape, three different acrylic paint layers were applied on the plaster surface. First, mat black colour covered the area and then a light grey applied with airbrush, spraying in almost zero degree angle, to let the darker areas between the concrete plaques remain naturally dark. The corner was paint with earth tones and as soon as the acrylic colours dried, I tried some drybrushing on selected spots using sand tones.

what more can be said except superb excellent outstanding and truly a noteworthy build. all it takes is a vision and plastic and perseverance and the results speak for them self .  sir my hats off to you .  so whats next on the workbench ?   what ever it is ill follow the build

I wish I would have followed this build. That thing looks amazing.

Nice job.

A league of their own, Chuckw & Nick.    

Nick_Karatzides

 She might say: "Is that your foot or are you happy to see me?"

 

 

Έχετε μια καλή εβδομάδα

DUSTER

FEET?  what FEET?

She might say: "Is that your foot or are you happy to see me?"

FEET?  what FEET?

 

I’ve been asked about the available space where the rear passenger puts his feet on. From the pictures of the model have been published, and the art images (click HERE) found on the article’s first page, it appears that the rear seat is too close to the back of the front seat - and it is also clear from the bluebrints (click HERE) of the real autogyro that it’s not my own assumption or a model building mistake. In real autogyro, rear passenger's feet are not squeezed behind the front passenger seat back, but they are placed left & right of the front seat! To make it more understandable, here is a picture where:

• The green lines represent the front seat passenger and the position of his feet on the rudder pedals and
• The blue lines represent the rear seat passenger and the position of his feet on the rudder pedals.

Also notice that the position of controls (stick, rudder pedals and engine throttle) meet the relative position of the elevator and rudder fins, the nose wheel, etc. The front & rear seat rudder pedals perform exactly the same movements as linked to the same wire transmission. If you also check the rudder pedals position, you’ll notice right rudder pedals pressed front end, bringing the left rudder pedals full back. As an effect, the nose wheel turns to the right and rudder fin turns in a way to turn the autogyro to the right as defined by the position of the rudder pedals. In similar manner, both control sticks (which perform exactly the same movements as they are connected to the same bar drive) are positioned slightly forward. This has the effect of elevator fins rotation so as to oblige the autogyro in the descent, as defined by the position of the control sticks. In a similar position the main rotor head is placed as required. As it is known, the autogyros and the helicopters leans to the left or right, elevates nose up or descent nose down, by turning the main rotor blades disc and secondarily to aileron and elevator fins (if present) and turn to left or to right with the rudder fins (autogyros) or tail rotor (helicopters).



Click HERE to watch a video showing a tandem cockpit seating positions as described. Picture following too.

Mr Karatzides

Thank you for sharing your skill and talent. You have shown me some very useful techniques- Bravo

I personally am looking forward to your next project and the attending instruction.

Καλή τύχη

 

See what I mean? That's the man - keep it up dude! And have a nice day, by the way

Pawel

Yea Chuck - Nick is one of the best modellers in this forum. He builds incredible things from almost nothing. And he's so tough he doesn't care for comments in his threads. He gets so little comments for such splendid job he does. And even if he gets any he doesn't answer them

Aw, whatever! Keep up the excellent job Nick! And what about the F-16 you got? Have a nice day

Pawel