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Display Base???

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  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Florida
Display Base???
Posted by STFD637 on Thursday, March 3, 2011 1:41 PM

Hey all,

Looking for  some help. I am looking at building a base for my F-16N. I want to show it in flight profile. What I need is some ideas on how to attach it to a base. I have seen acrylic post, and really like this idea for the "clear" effect. I will be adding a flight patch to the base as well.

Thanks for any and all help!!!

Travis

"If a lie is told often, and long enough, it becomes reality!"

Travis/STFD637

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  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Rothesay, NB Canada
Posted by VanceCrozier on Thursday, March 3, 2011 2:12 PM

If you don't mind drilling holes in the F-16, you could mount it using a pair of brass rods. No, it doesn't give the complete illusion of floating, but it works, I've done it to a few of my "wheels-up" builds.

On the bench: Airfix 1/72 Wildcat; Airfix 1/72 Vampire T11; Airfix 1/72 Fouga Magister

  • Member since
    April 2010
  • From: Bangor Trident Sub Base, Wa
Posted by Shipbuilderjake on Thursday, March 3, 2011 8:31 PM

The acrylic rod method is a bit tricky. When I did it, I used a stainless steel bucket that held one of my wife's candles. I bought the rod at Michael's and heated it with a propane torch. I turned the torch down to the smallest flame possible. I wired the end of the rod to the bucket and held the torch about 4"-5" below the rod and slowly bent it against the bucket. While I was assembling the F/A-18, I ran a 10/32 x 1/2" long screw through one of the exhuast nozzles, drilled and tapped the acrylic rod about a 1/4". I attached the rod to a routed block of wood with some 2 part epoxy. It took me about 12" of rod to practice it, until I finally got it right. It's just the way I did it there might be a better way but it worked okay for me. 

  • Member since
    April 2010
  • From: Somewhere in MN
Posted by El Taino on Thursday, March 3, 2011 8:41 PM

I'm writing from the wife's computer. I'll bring you a more self explanatory picture tomorrow. Single engine are the easiest. This is an Italeri 1/48 Viper from Venezuela's AF. I drilled the exhaust bucket part from the kit with a 1/4'' flat drill bit. I added a K&S brass tube in which the 1/4 plexi-glass rod fits like a glove. Pinch slightly with pliers the other end of the brass pipe so the acrylic rod doesn't go thru. As a result, the plexi-glass rod will fit snug, you can rotate the plane and the plexi-glass rod to model is not permanent. On single engine models this is a piece of cake. I'll be back soon.

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Spokane, WA
Posted by Hun Hunter on Friday, March 4, 2011 3:04 AM

I have yet to build a plane with its wheels down... but I've only done WW2 stuff thus far. I use stainless steel wire, it's easy to shape and can easily support the aircraft I build. You could try a spoke from a bike wheel, it might be strong enough to support a modern jet. That is if you have a bum bike wheel lying around.

I'm simply assuming you're going 1/48, which might not be the case. I like the steel because it tends to vanish when you look at the kit, at least to my eye. Those plastic rods always jump out to me.

There are some that call me... Nash

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Florida
Posted by STFD637 on Tuesday, March 8, 2011 6:58 PM

Thanks for the ideas.

El Taino: Great looking Viper!!!!

So I went into Michaels the other and could not find acrylic rods. Any ideas where to find one? I was even thinking of using a wire clothes hanger part. Huh?.

Travis

"If a lie is told often, and long enough, it becomes reality!"

Travis/STFD637

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  • Member since
    April 2010
  • From: Somewhere in MN
Posted by El Taino on Wednesday, March 9, 2011 6:08 AM

STFD637

Thanks for the ideas.

El Taino: Great looking Viper!!!!

So I went into Michaels the other and could not find acrylic rods. Any ideas where to find one? I was even thinking of using a wire clothes hanger part. Huh?.

Travis

 

Thanks for your comments: Here is the picture I promised and sorry for the delay.

What you see on the picture is the actual part used on the Venezuela Viper. The brass rod is from K&S 9/32 x .015 (7.14mm x .355mm) stock # 132. The tolerance between the acrylic rod and brass tube is so tight, that if you use a hacksaw to cut the brass tube, you will need to deburr it.

The idea of pinching the other end of the brass tube, is to keep the acrylic rod from going thru and inside your model. It also locks your model into any position you want to display it. Between the brass tube and the model canister I used 5 minutes epoxy as you can see on the picture. Because the canister will be a strees point, I use regular model glue and secure it with a bit of CA.

As for the acrylic rod, my local hobby shop has available these rods from Plastruct. I don't like them because they are not 100% clear. I get the acrylic rods from a seller on eBay. It is so clear that it looks like glass. My Viper has a 1/4'' acrylic rod.

Have a good one, hope this helps.

George

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Wednesday, March 9, 2011 6:49 AM

STFD637

Hey all,

Looking for  some help. I am looking at building a base for my F-16N. I want to show it in flight profile. What I need is some ideas on how to attach it to a base. I have seen acrylic post, and really like this idea for the "clear" effect. I will be adding a flight patch to the base as well.

Thanks for any and all help!!!

Travis

I think if I were to do a jet (not likely) in an "In Flight" profile, I'd use an acrylic rod the same diameter as the exhaust and curve it...  I'd also decoupage an aerial photo onto the base....

Kinda like this:

  • Member since
    April 2010
  • From: Somewhere in MN
Posted by El Taino on Wednesday, March 9, 2011 7:06 AM

Howdy Hans!

If I were to display your Viper in that configuration, I would still go the way I did it above. The only difference is that instead of using the acrylic rod, I's use a brass or aluminum tube from K&S. I use for the most part brass but aluminum can do the trick. As I type, I have on my desk K&S's stock 131 ( 1/4 x .014) and it slide into the 132 (above) tube with no play at all (very nice fit). If your LHS has the K&S line, chances are they also carry the tube benders (mine does).

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Wednesday, March 9, 2011 7:11 AM

I went with acrylic because it's easier to bend with heat...  Boiling water would be enough.... Bending brass or aluminum rod is easy enough, but tubing needs a bender, either external, or an internal "spring" type..

I'd also probably light the 'burner, lol...

 

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: St. Louis
Posted by Shawn M. on Wednesday, March 9, 2011 8:40 AM

I mounted my B-17 on an acrylic toilet plunger, made a male/femal set of brass tubes and voila!

Still need to make a proper mounting base instead of the plunger part.

I love the smell of plastic in the morning

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: Bent River, IA
Posted by Reasoned on Thursday, March 10, 2011 3:08 PM

Shawn M.

I mounted my B-17 on an acrylic toilet plunger, made a male/femal set of brass tubes and voila!

Still need to make a proper mounting base instead of the plunger part.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/5452607544_c25c2fd192_z.jpg

Why change the plunger, I think you may be on to a whole new direction of interior decorating. Wink

Science is the pursiut of knowledge, faith is the pursuit of wisdom.  Peace be with you.

On the Tarmac: 1/48 Revell P-38

In the Hanger: A bunch of kits

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Utereg
Posted by Borg R3-MC0 on Friday, March 11, 2011 4:03 AM

I use a wire coat hanger for inflight models. I not use a display base dut just bend the hanger in a triangluar base. The advantage of not using a solid base is that the model looks more like it is hoverig/floating IMHO.

Here are two whiffs where I used that technique:

FSW F-18

Rocket mig-21

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Friday, March 11, 2011 9:30 AM

I have done several. This f-16 is done on a 1/4" wooden dowel.

Brass rod for a pair of "adversaries".

You can see the F-15 (to the right of the C-130) with the plaque mounted to the wall.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Salina, Kansas USA
Posted by arnie on Wednesday, March 16, 2011 11:01 AM

Fermis,

Beautiful displays but how do you keep them all clean?

"There is a fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'."---- Dave Barry

"Giggity"      -------------------------------------------------------------       Glenn Quagmire

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Allentown, PA
Posted by BaBill212 on Wednesday, March 16, 2011 11:50 AM

I basically use the same method as Fermis,, however I use aluminum or brass. One diameter into the fuselage and the next lesser diameter for the mount. This way you can turn the aircraft to a different in flight position as you deem necessary.

Enjoy the ride!

 

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Florida
Posted by STFD637 on Wednesday, March 16, 2011 4:59 PM

Fremis:

Great looking bases. That is what I am looking for!!! Ok So how do you get the dowels into the kit and model???? Double ended screws? The Viper looks great, and since that is what this whole thread started for....I would love to know more!  My hobby room is just starting and I want the planes to have different looks! Thanks agian.

Travis

"If a lie is told often, and long enough, it becomes reality!"

Travis/STFD637

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