1/32 Revell He162A WIP

Well just got a sorry email from ROG saying it's OOP. Looks like I will end up buying AM ones afterall. I'm still looking for them.

Got a second email and seems like ROG has the decals in reserve since they said they will be processing my request. Only God knows where the heck I put that freaking sheet.

Very possible BK and I'm still looking thru my kits. On a positive note I got a response from Revell telling me the decals are in Germany and will take 4-6 weeks to get to the US.

I'm just gonna toss this out there, cuz I did it. I tend to put my kit lids down and then place the innner box upside down in the lid to save space. Is it possible the decals got placed in between the two boxes or stuck in the instructions? Or perhaps another kit? Just an idea.

BK

Yep, i know the exact feelking. And then they just seemed to jump into my hand several months later.

Thanks Bish. Hopefully they are still in stock and or I find mine. This is crazy man, I had them in my hands not long ago.

I gave them my kit number and they probably just went off that, so hopefully yours being the later one they might still have some, in fact that kit might still be in production. Lets hope they can helpyou out. I do now have spare decals, but they are all for the brown/green scheme and of course i have used the stencils. But if you want them let me know.

Bish

I'm praying that if it is OOP that they still have some of the decals in reserve. Mine was re released in 2012. Those decals have to be here in this mancave but man, it's been two long days of going thru kits so see if they accidentally got put in there and just looking all over. I know I did not throw them away.

I thought about am ones but those show a two tone green scheme and mine has a single RLM81 color overall and don't want to repaint one wing and the engine covers. I will continue to look anyway!

Have you heard back from Revell. Funny thing is,m same thing happened to me last year when i was checking over the kit. realised the decals had vanished. Spent 3 or 4 months looking for them every so ofetn. So contacted Revell to be told sorry, the kit is out of production so no can do. I went for the next option, a set of AM ones. Got those, and you can guess what happened then. 2 weeks later, found the kit ones.

I was going to put the kit ones on e-bay, but when i looked at some pics of the real thing, i realised both decal sets had differant errors, so i have used some from each.

Well guess what??? Got the Salamander ready for decals all glossed up and the decals are nowhere to be found. They evaporated into thin air. I have spent the last 2 days looking for them and have looked everywhere except under the house foundation!

Hopefully I will get a replacement from Revell so now to wait for them.

No worries, i did wounder if it might be differant. My engine itself fits ok, its the additional piece i added thats caused the problem. It may be because the kit engine is rounded underneath, where as my 1/18th one is flatter.

Thanks Toshi.

Bish

the engine is the only resin part that fits like a glove.

i have stalled out on this build but will resume shortly. The Gato sub has kept me very busy

Great work on the cannon bays!

Toshi

PJ, have you test fitted your engine since you filled in that gap. I know your not useing the kit one, so you may not have the same issue. But i have just tried mine and realised there is a reason Revell left that open. I just had to cut it back for the engine to fit properly.

not much to report but got the cannon bays done.

I 've been looking for reference pictures for this area but nothing so far. I added a couple of wires  and a light oil wash to grime things up.

Thanks bk

Great work. The canopy paint is super sharp; very nice. This is really coming along nicely.

BK

Short update on my build. I shot the RLM76 lower color. The cannon bays will be sprayed with RLM02 and detailed once I can mask around the gun bays.

The scheme for the machine flown by Hptm. Heinz Kunnecke of 1./JG1 was RLM81 Brown/Violet for the upper color.

The canopy and windscreen was first polished with Novus then masked and shot RLM81.

I also found a picture of white 5 and its pilot.   

Thanks Mike. For glues I use Alene's or Testors Clear Parts cement depending on the application. What I like about Alene's is that it dries clear and invisible and it's strong. Testors dries clear and a bit stronger but takes longer to grab and cure. 

I have read that the only way to use ca without fogging clear parts is when they have been dipped in Future. In the past I have also used Tenax a couple of times where strength was imperative. I applied it with a Touch N Flow applicator with no issues.

I second Toshi's admiration for the PE work.

Question - What do you use when you're attaching clear parts to the model? I have Gator's Grip (regular and thin) as well as Aleene's tacky glue. I'll probably stick with them (no pun intended) unless someone can point me to a substance with more powerful adhesion that's simple to use and doesn't have to be mixed up from two or more chemicals.

I ask because I've ruined the clear windows on the dorsal section of my TBM-3 by grabbing some CA without thinking (something I've unfortunately found myself doing lately) and fogging up the clear area badly. I must be more careful, I must be more careful, I must.....

Any suggestions other than a brain transplant would be appreciated.

Thanks Toshi.

I love the work on the PE!  Great job!!!

Toshi

Did some work on the 162 today. Got the big ugly gap in the cannon bay filled in with PPP and sanded smooth.

Also got the V tail and wings together and ready to go on the fuselage.

The pe IP got put together and drops of Testors Clear Parts Cement were used for the instrument lenses.

The Revi 16B Reflector Gunsight was assembled from the pe fret and painted.

plasticjunkie

 

 

Hunter

PJ - 

I forgot to ask...but the wiring you placed in the pit....what gauge is that, and where did you pick it up at? The detail on the pit is just stunning. 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks again Hunter. I have a box full of discarded electronic wiring and parts. Before tossing electronic components, I take them apart looking for interesting small parts useful for scratcht building and as much wires as I can pull out. 

Electric cords are also a good source for thin copper wire. I'm sorry but don't know the wire size I used in the Salamander's pit, I just go by eye if it looks to scale.

 

Hunter

PJ - 

I forgot to ask...but the wiring you placed in the pit....what gauge is that, and where did you pick it up at? The detail on the pit is just stunning. 

 

Thanks again Hunter. I have a box full of discarded electronic wiring and parts. Before tossing electronic components, I take them apart looking for interesting small parts useful for scratcht building and as much wires as I can pull out. 

Electric cords are also a good source for thin copper wire. I'm sorry but don't know the wire size I used in the Salamander's pit, I just go by eye if it looks to scale.

PJ - 

I forgot to ask...but the wiring you placed in the pit....what gauge is that, and where did you pick it up at? The detail on the pit is just stunning. 

Hunter

PJ

Simply outstanding job. And you even had the time to enjoy some chips and salsa 

 

Thanks, LOL then washed it down with a brewski

PJ

Simply outstanding job. And you even had the time to enjoy some chips and salsa 

Thanks MM