1/32 Hasegawa FW190D-9 WIP (Completed)

Look forward to seeing what you do with this PJ. I wish i had gone for the open cowling.

PJ,

Great start sir...look forward to seeing more,

I'll be following this build, too, as I am working on an older version of this kit, the high tech version that has PE parts, but minimal interior detail.  It has the older raised rivet detail on the wings and engraved panel lines on the fuse.

Very nice details you added to the engine! This month I also built 2 x Fw190 in 1:72 scale. One of them is Revell's 33 years old kit, with some interesting info:

FW190 1:72 Revell, GB @1978 Info on box:

"From a pilot's point of view, the FockeWulf 190 was perhaps the most beautiful fighter plane ever designed. Its clean and straightforward lines drew praises from both the German pilots who flew it, and the allied pilots who fought against it. Beautifully combined with its appearance was the capability for top speed, neck-snapping maneuverability and heavy armament. The FockeWulf 190 ranks as one of the most successful fighters ever developed."

And this is my build of the most beautiful fighter plane ever designed:

I'll be ernestly watching ( pun intended  and as always learning from your vast treasure house of skills.

Thanks guys for following along!

The first day of 2018 has been a very lazy and relaxed day.  It's been raining the entire day, very windy and cold in the 40's. The wife has been watching tv the whole day so it's been a perfect modeling day.

Got the IP done

and the pit tub

I still have to do some more weathering and light griming. I thought I had PE belts but I don't have any so I ordered a set from HGW which are supossed to be fantastic and better than the PE ones.

I also added more lines. I also made my own braided line by wrapping thin copper wire around another wire then painted it grey.

The pit is looking real good.

Guitar strings are also good for a flex hose kind of look.

Thanks K. I've heard of those too so thanks for the suggestion. Before I toss any electronic piece I take it apart and look for interesting parts to keep that will come in handy at scratch work.

PJ, just saw your comment on the HGW belts. They are deffinetly far better than PE ones. They are a bit fiddly to put together, and only printed on one side (though i think the newer ones may be 2 sided, not sure) but they look so much better and much reasier to get a realistic look to them laying in the pit. I have switched completly to them for 32nd kits now, even if i buy a PE set that includers belts, i still get the HGW ones.

Beautiful scratchwiring work for the engines.  Looking forward to more!

Your friend,Toshi

Thanks Toshi. Still lots of things to add to it.

Bish

Looking forward to getting these belts.

PJ: Looking great! 

And +1 with Bish about the HGW belts—even one sided, they're a massive step up from PE. (And I bet you could figure out the second side if you needed to, especially in 1/32.)

-J

Thanks Johnny. Yes those belts sound fantastic.

Thank you for going out of your way to share with those of us who don't normally visit the group builds, PJ. That's very considerate of you to do, particularly when you're sharing a project like this. Much obliged and looking forward to watching your progress with this build!

That is looking great, Ernie.  This will be fun to watch**, thank for the WIP.

I've built a handful of 190's, all in 1/48th so I look fwd to seeing the additional detail in 1/32nd.

BTW, you Floridians crack me up. Complaining about 40's being cold. Oh, how I hate it up here in the mid-friggin-west this time of year. <----meaning me

KnightTemplar5150

Thank you for going out of your way to share with those of us who don't normally visit the group builds, PJ. That's very considerate of you to do, particularly when you're sharing a project like this. Much obliged and looking forward to watching your progress with this build!

 

You are welcome KT and thanks for your kind words. I'm glad you are enjoying my build.

Greg

That is looking great, Ernie.  This will be fun to watch**, thank for the WIP.

I've built a handful of 190's, all in 1/48th so I look fwd to seeing the additional detail in 1/32nd.

BTW, you Floridians crack me up. Complaining about 40's being cold. Oh, how I hate it up here in the mid-friggin-west this time of year. <----meaning me

 

Thanks Greg for dropping by.  Yes when it gets in the 40s here lots of people complaint, including me LOL. Cold weather has never bothered me till recently. I guess old age made me thin skinned with the temps. I don't know how some folks can endure the northern climates.

Hi, plasticjunkie! I built that kit about 4 years ago, painted in JV44 markings (red & white stripes on the bottom of the wings and fuselgae). The kit is a good-fitting kit, except for where the front of the bottom part of the wing (I hope that makes sense) butts up against the bottom of the engine area. It kept popping apart on me, even after multiple attempts at it, using different glues. I have since forgetten how I finally got it to stay glued together. There's a thread on here somewhere that I posted of the build (not sure how to search the threads for it), but it'll show more precisely what I'm talking about.

Your engine bay looks MUCH BETTER than my did - I just used the the kit stuff. The only aftermarket stuff I used was the Eduard cockpit set, and even then it was only the instrument panel items - nothing else.

Goos Luck with it!!

Gary Mason

Hi Gary. So far everything is fitting like a glove as most Hasegawa kits do so I will see once I get to that tricky part.

Well I finally got the HGW belts and man they are a PITA to put together. As a matter of fact I wasn't impressed at all with them. You have to cut these things and the printed cut line is way off cause it's too wide for the pe buckles. I had to trim off more material so it would fit thru the pe buckle. By doing this, most of the printed stitching is lost. It took me 2 evenings to assemble these belts but the Eduard PE ones only takes me a few minites.

The package has another belt to be assembled and I will use it simply because I have it but I will not be getting this product again. I also had to paint the back side since it's just blank.

I drilled two holes with a #80 bit to attach the shoulder belts with very thin wire. I think the PE belts look better and have more detail than these but they will stay regardless.

I also used my mini drill bit to drill out the exhaust pipes and carefully cleaned them up with a blade.

Devil Dawg

The kit is a good-fitting kit, except for where the front of the bottom part of the wing (I hope that makes sense) butts up against the bottom of the engine area. It kept popping apart on me, even after multiple attempts at it, using different glues.

 

This must be the part that you are talking about Gary. It's a bit tricky to attach and a prime candidate for Plast I Weld glue that will melt the bonding areas solid.

It took lots of dry fitting and a couple of DeWalt clamps to get it to sit evenly then I hit it with Plast I Weld in a Touch N Flow applicator. The two sharp tips broke off and two tiny white plastic sheet triangles were fitted and melted in place by the glue. This is the only part so far that required some work for a god fit.

The wells were painted RLM02 and more lines were added along with a grime wash. Click on the image for an extreme closeup.

The cannon shell ejector locations were dressed up in the wing interior otherwise it's just dead space when viewed thru the ammo ejection slots. Pieces of plastic sheet were cut and placed where the cannon would be.

I feared that paint would give a poor bonding surface to these parts eventually becoming loose inside the wing so they will pe painted black after assembly. Now there's something there intead od dead space.

The tiny hood scoop was drilled open

And so were the wing cannons and nose guns

Beginning to look like a Dora

Hello plastic j

I see you have made plenty of progress on your D-9 ..i thought of drilling out the kits canon too ..but I desided on useing brass  tubeing. Looks good ..i had issues with that front piece too .other than that it whent together great ..too bad no one Carrys hasegawa kits in Prince George bc. I have to find out hobby stores in city and towns I travel to while working on the railroad. It's tough not meny stores do ..if I had a choice i.d buy way more of those kits ..not much bench time lately cuss im working grave yard shift sence the big dump of snow were getting here ..(snow removal)..from rail switches and such..hopefully I'll get a day of so I get much bench time ..my dora is calling for some attention .  But I do have wip picks to share.

5h

Try ebay. I just got another Hasegawa 1/32 Dora for $17! Once in a while a great deal pops up.

I thought about replacing the cannons with brass tubing but I just got some Gyros mini drill bit replacements and they ate up that plastic really quick.

I don't envy your weather up there with all that snow. Stay warm!

Ohhhhh yeahhh. ..i will ...ohhh yeah I will ..ebay eh ...did you bid or buy outright

It was buy it now price and a fresh listing last Sunday morning. It came in the mail Friday.

PJ

Looking really good—those wheel wells look great. 

Sorry if the HGW belts were a bum steer! They really are a PITA to put together, but I thought worth it--maybe scale, or style (maybe the USN belts are somehow better than Luftwaffe or something). A wash helped them "sit" in a little better for me. 

-J

Thanks Johnny. The only thing that keept them down was Aleene's Glue. I will be going back to the Eduard belts in the future.

It's been a while since I posted so here is a small update. I'm gonna add the fuel tank to my Dora and it's nice OOB but

I'm not happy how the plastic fuel lines look. First I drilled where the lines plug into the fuselage.

and bent my own out of soft wire. It needs some minor adjustments and will be glued after the paint goes on.

Looks like Miss Dora is ready for the paint shop very soon

Regardless of all the trouble, the belts look good from my chair, Ernie. Kudos for pressing on even though you hated them.

Don't recall seeing so much detail in a wheel well before. Very cool.

I keep saying my next airplane model is going to be 1/32. You might have pushed me over the edge.

Thanks Greg. Yes the belts were a hasle to put together but they turned out ok. I find 1/32 a bit easier to add details to. I have a 1/24 George that will be a blast to super detail.

I decided not to go plum loco with rivet counting on this one and will be adding just the basics to add a little more detail to the surface. It's a fine model but Hasegawa should have included at least some of the riveting.

Heck if Jerry Crandall built several of these and didn't do the riveting (at least on some) so that's good enough for me.

The Dora has a ton of riveting and I do mean a TON. I have an old Kookaburra Technical Publications  for the FW 190 and Ta 152 which has some really nice detailed aircraft diagrams showing all the riveting. It's easier to do this task prior to assembling the model so the next one will get ALL of the darn rivets.

I used my Verlinden scribing set for this one, taping down the soft metal ruler to use as a guide. Click on the image for a closeup.

The effect is subbtle and effective. The Micro Mark riveting set does a fine job using slight pressure as the wheel is rolled. I then hit the area with a 4,000 grit pad to knock down the raised plastic.

The flaps are set almost vertical and they just don't look right as is.

Using the UMM saw, I carefully made light cuts on the attachment points and bent them so the flaps would have a lighter angle.

I used some Plast I Weld on the bend points to weld shut the cuts and let them dry overnight. Now the angle is lesser and looks better.

The prop spinner was also missing the riveting

I carefully rolled the riveting tool on the spinner.

Now to do the rest of the wings and some riveting on the fuselage, again just the basics.

I never had much luck with thin straightedges and rescribing, but I never thought to tape down the straightedge! Duh. Thanks for the common sense tip, Ernie.

All the rivits are looking good.

I am also building a Hase FW-190, kitted in the mid-1980s.  It has raised rivet and panel line wings and an engraved panel line fuse.  I drilled rivets along the panel lines for days.  I used masking tape marked every couple of mm for the rivet spacing.  It conforms to all the curves.

Greg

I never had much luck with thin straightedges and rescribing, but I never thought to tape down the straightedge! Duh. Thanks for the common sense tip, Ernie.

All the rivits are looking good.

 

Thanks Greg. The tape is very helpful.

kensar

I am also building a Hase FW-190, kitted in the mid-1980s.  It has raised rivet and panel line wings and an engraved panel line fuse.  I drilled rivets along the panel lines for days.  I used masking tape marked every couple of mm for the rivet spacing.  It conforms to all the curves.

 

Yes I use thin masking tape, Tamiya plastic tape, Dymo tape  and even strips of electrical tape for certain angles and curves.

More riveting

This red tape from HL is perfect for irregular surfaces specially on the hood.

The hood looks better now

The red tape was also used around the cowl ring

I wiped on some washable blue paint to make most of the details easier to see. I made sure not to go too deep to keep it subtle.

A little work goes a long way!  Coming along nicely!

Wow, the riviting is really good.

I'd sure like to see how you paint the props. I like the idea of assembling the prop/spinner then painting.

I recently got my Rosie the Riveter tools for all 3 scales, so I thought I would practice on a 1/72 P-40 by doing it free hand. Well Ernie, I must again thank you for this post because i can really see the difference between my rivet rows and yours by using a straight edge guide . I will from now on, it's well worth the extra effort to use some kind of guide to apply rivets thanks to your generous post.

Thanks Keyda, dog and Greg.

Greg , the spinner is being held in place temporarily by some Aleene's. After the paint goes on and when dry then the spinner is removed so the rest of the prop hub can be painted in a silver color then re assembled.

Thanks Jay and you are welcome. You need the help of some kind of guide being masking, dymo tape or thin metal or plastic strip to keep the rivet lines straight and true. I also ordered a jewelers setting beading set for making other rivet types.

Wow, looks fantastic!  Awesome detailing!  I wish I had that kind of talent and execution.

Your friend, Toshi

PJ

Yer killin' it with those rivets. Really nicely done. That's the kind of thing that throws it over the top if you get it right, and really drags it down if you don't. Happily, you're firmly in the former camp.

I'm going to make a note of this thread for when I next have a rivet situation. 

Thanks

-J

Riveting is truly a labor of love - a lot of hours go into that (particularly where you're using the jewelers' tools to get that truly rounded look) and you're absolutely doing a beautiful job of it, PJ! Nice work!

plasticjunkie

Greg , the spinner is being held in place temporarily by some Aleene's. After the paint goes on and when dry then the spinner is removed so the rest of the prop hub can be painted in a silver color then re assembled.

Why didn't I think of that? Very clever.

Thanks, Ernie!

Ach Du Leiber ! 

 I Haff read this tread . Oh Mein Gott ! All those widdle biddy rivets ! Now silliness over , You are doing an amazing amount of work there . Years ago I did AirFixes Ju87 in 1.24 .man was it fun .It didn't survive my trip to Ca. to set up housekeeping .

 I admire what you are doing and will follow this build till it's done . Then I will refer to it for a particular boat build I am doing piecemeal .

So I says to myself, "self, you will never be a rivet counter.  Nope, not me."  Then I see this thread, and those rivets add a LOT to that kit.

You are doing a great job on this kit PJ.  You are also, as my father used to say, "learning us a thing or two".  Excellent WIP that I will be following.

I went to Micro Mark, and I think I found one of the tools you used.  They call it a Pounce Wheel.  Comes in a set of three sizes.  Is that right?

Thanks,

D

Toshi

Wow, looks fantastic!  Awesome detailing!  I wish I had that kind of talent and execution.

Your friend, Toshi

 

Thanks so much Toshi. It's really easy adding them. You just need good references and go slow.

Johnny and Knight

Thanks for the positive comments. 

Thanks TB. Sorry to hear about your Ju52 not making it.

Thanks Greg. After separating the spinner from the back plate the gluing areas are clear of any paint for a strong positive clean join. 

Thanks Rambo and D.

D

I bought that set from Micromark at least 15 years ago and comes in very handy once in a while. They also have a Mini punch set that is fantastic.  

The wife and I flew up to SC to visit the grandkids so no modeling for a couple of days. 

PJ, very nice work on her.  Have the F-8 from ROG in 1/32 that will be heading for the bench in a bit, and you have given me ideas for improvements, but weather I can pull them off is another thing entirely.  It has nicely recessed lnes, but not much in rivet detail.  Will have to get one of those andsee if I can pull it off.

goldhammer

PJ, very nice work on her.  Have the F-8 from ROG in 1/32 that will be heading for the bench in a bit, and you have given me ideas for improvements, but weather I can pull them off is another thing entirely.  It has nicely recessed lnes, but not much in rivet detail.  Will have to get one of those andsee if I can pull it off.

 

Thanks GH! Hey I also have the Rog F8 and was hoping that it had the rivets. I wanted to check mine but we are away from home for a couple of days.

Aw ;

 That's alright . I didn't know my daughters crammed Barbie stuff in  the plane box , til we arrived . They couldn't figure out what happened to their heads though ! Yeah , I gave them back after about a week .

We had a blast visiting our grandkids, gosh they grow so fast! So the Dora is ready for paint. I shot gloss black in a marbling fashion to give tonal value to the topcoat once it is sprayed. Floquil Old Silver was randombly shot in areas to be chipped.

I'm doing the salt weathering technique. Using some water with a couple of drops of Dawn the area is brushed with the mix and salt sprinkled on. Once dry, most of the salt is removed with a toothpick. I want to have light chipping specially on the foot travel areas on the wings.

The gear doors get some salt for chipping from stones kicked up by the wheels.

The prop was sprayed Floquil Old Silver and selected areas were salted for chipping.

The spinner got the same treatment

I will be probably be having the tank NMF so it was sprayed with AK Extreme Metal Polished Aluminum. As a matter of fact, I see it as a VERY close match to Floquil Old Silver.

I still have to fine tune the salt grains on some of the areas.

its coming along nicely great job on the small stuff.

Dang Ernie! This is looking fantastic so far dude. Id've opted for chipping on the inside of the gear bay doors instead of the outside as that's where any stones would hit, but it all looks good anyways. Thanks for taking the time to explain the process. Weathering is one area I do need to work on.

mustang1989

Dang Ernie! This is looking fantastic so far dude. Id've opted for chipping on the inside of the gear bay doors instead of the outside as that's where any stones would hit, but it all looks good anyways. Thanks for taking the time to explain the process. Weathering is one area I do need to work on.

 

Thanks Joe. Great point about the chipping inside the doors. As a matter of fact, that is a detail I will add later on once I get to work on the inside of the doors. I want to add brake lines and placards but don't want any paint there for a positive gluing point for the lines. Once the lines are added then I will shoot the silver, salt and RLM02 for some chipping.

Thanks Nick!

plasticjunkie

 

mustang1989

Dang Ernie! This is looking fantastic so far dude. Id've opted for chipping on the inside of the gear bay doors instead of the outside as that's where any stones would hit, but it all looks good anyways. Thanks for taking the time to explain the process. Weathering is one area I do need to work on.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Joe. Great point about the chipping inside the doors. As a matter of fact, that is a detail I will add later on once I get to work on the inside of the doors. I want to add brake lines and placards but don't want any paint there for a positive gluing point for the lines. Once the lines are added then I will shoot the silver, salt and RLM02 for some chipping.

 

Thanks Joe.

I'm doing the markings for Gerhard Michalski's D9 from Stab/JG4.

The colors are RLM76, 75 and 83 with a real cool spotted RLM 75 over the RLM 83. The side fuselage mottling is extending behind the side crosses. Instead of using the tail band decals I'm opting to spray paint those instead.

The canopy was riveted, masked, painted RLM66 first then RLM83. The RLM66 will show as the the interior frame color. The salt exposes some chips from foot traffic and wear on the wing walkway. 

The salt chipping exposes a few chips here and there on the outside of the doors. The inside will get the same treatment later on.

The prop unit got the salt chipping too. The MM RLM70 was  not dark enough so a few drops of flat black was added to darken the color a bit. The spiral will be next.

plasticjunkie

Thanks Joe.

I'm doing the markings for Gerhard Michalski's D9 from Stab/JG4.

The colors are RLM76, 75 and 83 with a real cool spotted RLM 75 over the RLM 83. The side fuselage mottling is extending behind the side crosses. Instead of using the tail band decals I'm opting to spray paint those instead.

The canopy was riveted, masked, painted RLM66 first then RLM83. The RLM66 will show as the the interior frame color. The salt exposes some chips from foot traffic and wear on the wing walkway. 

The salt chipping exposes a few chips here and there on the outside of the doors. The inside will get the same treatment later on.

The prop unit got the salt chipping too. The MM RLM70 was  not dark enough so a few drops of flat black was added to darken the color a bit. The spiral will be next.

 

 

 

 

Your friend, Toshi

Thanks Toshi. There are several other methods for chipping/wear producing some fine special effects. Thanks for taking a peek.

An update on Dora. Got the canopy mask removed

Spiral's done

Tail band sprayed

RLM02 sprayed in the flap wells

Salt chipping done

other side

Several coats of Future are next

Coming along nicely, Ernie.

Appreciate the update pics. Please keep them coming.

Thanks Greg. The decals looked ok but the spiral disintegrated in the water earlier. Decals are from 2005 and are not that old. I brushed Superfilm over the decals in hopes of saving them. I will start decaling later today or tomorrow.

You're coming along great on this project.  The detailing and salt chipping are excellent.

kensar

You're coming along great on this project.  The detailing and salt chipping are excellent.

 

Thanks. Masking film is another method to get realistic looking paint chips but I like the salt method that even gives you some slight paint discoloration around the chips.

Got the mains assembled painted and detailed. Made the brake lines from thin wire and the fittings from masking tape and a tiny drop of thin CA to secure them. Made my own strut placards at the copier from another sheet. Afterwards a dark wash of burnt umber helped to pop details and gives a grimy look. Some chips need some re touching to show up better. A #2 pencil was used for the oleo strut color instead of paint. The grahite gives it a realistic metallic sheen.

the leg actuators from the box

And after my mods. Wrapped thin copper wire around one arm and thin wiring for added plumbing.

The tail wheel and main tires are done too

Also went back and extended the spiral to the back plate by painting it flat white with a small thin brush

Getting ready for decals in a bit.   

Looks like the Hasegawa decals are beyond repair. Even after brushing several coats of Superfilm they eventually fracture. No biggie since Eaglecal #58 decal sheet is easily available online but will check first with my LHS as soon as they open.

Decals are on hold till they arrive in the mail from SB.

Looking really great.

Everything looks good, but that spiral is especially impressive. Is that painted? 

Thanks TJ!!

Johnny

The original spiral from Hasegawa desintegrated once it saw water. I used a spiral decal from my spares but stretched it a bit to the backplate by painting it MM flat enamel white with a small brush. You actually can't tell where the decal ends and the paint starts.

The decals were schedyuled to be delivered yesterday but it never hapenned. The tracking  # now says today so hopefuly they will arrive. SB is pretty fast and had them out within 3 hours after paying for them but our PO seems to drag now and then. Oh well maybe later today.

Hey Ernie, that Dora is looking fantastic.  Your attention to detail is outstanding.  Love the spiral on spinner.  The landing gear also looks great.  Looking forward to seeing decals on this kit.

Another fantastic build.  Thanks for sharing.

D

Ñoooo  Looking good Ernie

Thanks D and Nick. I love the schemes on the Doras, specially the late war ones.

Thanks dog!

My decals came in the mail yesterday late afternoon but was busy helping my daugther move till late in the evening so not much done except reviewing the sheet and finding a couple of mistakes thanks to Hasegawa.

I should have ordered this Eagle Cals sheet from the beginning but trusting that Hasegawa's info was correct and their decals were still in good condition has been rather a disapointment.

The  Eagle Cal instruction sheet also provides pictures of the actual aircraft credited to Jerry Crandall and three other gentlemen cleary showing the pin stripe of the Stab JG4 tail band that Hasegawa totally omitted.

I painted it as per Hasegawa's description:

Pin stripe added as seen in the actual picture of Michaelki's Dora:

This was as simple as slicing a couple of thin strips of white decal film from a leftover helicopter decal sheet I have in my spares decal box.

Another area where Hasegawa goofed is in the nose spots where they list it at RLM 75. In reality, it was RLM 84 which makes it stand out more. This will be my next mission to carefully spray RLM 84 over the present spots.

Wow  what a fantastic build. Wish I was brave enough to do some scratch building. It always amazes me what you guys can do

Greatmaker

Wow  what a fantastic build. Wish I was brave enough to do some scratch building. It always amazes me what you guys can do

 

Thank you!!

The nose spots were carefully re-sprayed with RLM 84 Grey/Green which has a higher contrast as seeen in the pictures of the actual plane.

Some of the decals went on but it's getting late..

I decided to have a NMF on the drop tank. It was weathered with oils and Prismacolor pencils.

Fuel streaks are present.

Correcting the splinter pattern on the wings will be next.l

Another update on my Dora....I was gonna give Hasegawa a pass on the color scheme mistake on Michalski's Dora thinking the kit was older. The kit isnstruction sheet is from 2005 and the Eagle Editions decal sheet containing the updated information is from 2003 so Hasegawa should have done some checking since the info was out and verified in actual pictures.

But then the Eagle Editions sheet has Michalski's name misspelled as Michaelski so even they made a mistake. As a side note, 21st Century makes a 1/32 diecast model of Michalski's Dora and they actually got the scheme and name correct LOL.

The corrected left wing tip area has what appears to be a paint patch, or half painted. This part is clearly visible in one of the pictures in the Eagle Editions sheet so It's correct.

The right wing also has a filled in area forward mid wing with RLM83 and the top of the right aileron is a solid RLM75 cutting into the green area.

Most all of the larger decals are on. I still have to add several small stencils.

I was going to replace the guns with brass tubing but I drilled out the bores even more and painted them several shades of Alclad paints till I got the desired metal color. I then hand polished them with a soft cotton rag giving them a metallic sheen.

The wing cannons

and the nose guns

I was going to replace the loop antenna with thin brass strip but tried first to thin the plastic to see how thin I could get it and it actually looks to scale so I will be using the part as is.

There are a couple more plastic antennas I will be replacing with thin surgical wire I have courtesy of my late friend and former FSM member John Staworski who sent me a ton of this stuff some years back.

PJ that late camo just amazing and the motteling on the nose 

That paint job is gonna look killer under some weathering and alongside the cals. Saw that you used a pencil on the oleos. I've started using the Molotow chrome pens for the oleos on landing gear. It turns out a nice shiny chrome for it. I found those things when I switched to auto modeling and they work GREAT!!!

Very nice work on this beauty of a D-9 Ernie. If it's one aircraft I like, it's certainly the D-9. I've got an Eduard 1/48 scale and Trumpy 1/24 scale D-9 in the stash.

crown r n7

PJ that late camo just amazing and the motteling on the nose 

 

Thanks Nick! Those nose spots got my attention as soon as I saw the art work.

Thanks Joe. I think the D9 is my favorite German WWII plane next to the Ta152. These planes just look awesome.

That Trumpy 1/24 Dora must be a beauty and huge. I have a Bandai 1/24 George and that thing is gargantuan.

PJ, I've come late to the party but I'm delighted to be here! You're putting on a show! Some very fine painting and detailing sir. Love those FW's.

1943Mike

PJ, I've come late to the party but I'm delighted to be here! You're putting on a show! Some very fine painting and detailing sir. Love those FW's.

 

Thanks for dropping by and checking out my build. It's highly appreciated Mike!

Looking very very nice. I love the paint and all the detail touches to make it authentic. Well done, Sir.  I can't wait to see it complete.

BK

Thanks BK!

Have been working on the canopy details so here's what I did. Very carefully I drilled down into the canopy so the aerial can come in clear thru. It will attach to the rear bottom of the frame.

Scrap pe pieces were trimmed to make the top canopy frame wire brackets. Using my mini drill bits  a clearance slot was made on the top brace so the antenna wire can go thru and attach to the pulley at the bottom rear that I made from stretched sprue.

Wires attached and threaded thru the pe gussets aft. Once the CA securing the wires is dry they will be trimmed. A simple pulley was made from sprue and will have the antenna wire attached once the plane is completed.

This is how they look

The bottom antenna was cleaned up and the thick plastic tip sliced off and replaced wih thin surgical wire ca'd in place. Next will be painting it then attaching it to the Dora's belly.

That is some amazing detail work there, PJ. Clever ideas to add a bit of sizzle to the kit. Very nice. 

BK

Great attention to detail as you move on, Ernie.

Great job on the wire/pulley inside the canopy. I tried to simulate this on a 1/48 Dora a few years back. You just blew mine away.

Mottling is looking great.

Very nice work on the aerial tensioner mechanism in there Ernie!!! Off tha charts dude.

This thing looks amazing! You are making a brilliant job of it. Very impressed

Thanks gents. I'm glad you all like the details and greatly appreciate your input.

Hasegawa dropped the ball here with the dash padding/coaming. It's missing a piece for the Revi sight to sit in which is absolutely wrong.

So the first thing to do here was to add some stretched sprue to match the rest of the padding.

I did some minor surgery on the Revi16B sight to make it fit in the square and added the glass pieces to it. I have resin ones but the Hasegawa sight was equally well made so I used it for this build.  I also see in the picture the white is showing on the inside of the seatbelts . I need to touch up those to get rid of that white color.

I also attached the boarding ladder, loop and small straight antenna. The smaller antenna is a piece of very thin metal.

For the pitot tube, the thiiner part was replaced with .004 brass pipe into a drilled hole in the thicker plastic part.

Outstanding detail Bro.This one is going to be another best in class for you.

Jay Jay

Outstanding detail Bro.This one is going to be another best in class for you.

 

Thanks Jay! Weathering yet to come.

Been busy with house things bu got to attach the drop tank and added the metal fuel lines a few minutes back. I like how the NMF drop tanks looks on the painted plane. I weathered the main wheels and dirtied up the doors since they operated from grass fileds. Next will be a flat coat and dot filtering/weathering. 

Weathering looks great! Bangup job so far.

Isn't it depressing when, after having looked carefully for any little thing that might need touching up before taking pictures, there's always something you can see from a close up shot.

Except for a little silvering on "Keine Bombe!" which I only notice in the middle image, the decals obviously went on very well too. At normal viewing distances even that won't be visible. Nice job! That wheel and strut in the last image look absolutely fantastic! It looks just like someone should give the brake line a cursory once over for leaking fluid!

Thanks Mike.

Yes I saw that after posting the pictures yet barely visible to the naked eye. I like to take pictures as I go which magnifies any issues missed by the human eye. Another method is placing a small mirror to view from different angles.

Sometimes the silvering appears no matter how glossy the surface is but I usually kill it by taking a new #11 blade and lightly scoring the decal film then apply good old Solvaset to get it under the decal film which usually works. I did it to the one decal on the tank and the silvering was neutralized.

And same angle as the original picture.

Wow - really nice build.  What Color/medium did you use to wash the tank?

keavdog

Wow - really nice build.  What Color/medium did you use to wash the tank?

 

Thanks kdog. It's a combination of oil washes and Prismacolor pencil over an acrylic flat coat.

My Dora is completed and in my display cabinet. Maybe later I will add a base for it but who knows.

Thoughts on the kit.........Very enjoyable to work on with great parts fit. Hasegawa provides the foundation for a Dora and you go from there. My only beef is that they should incorporate at least partial rivetting specially for the fuselage. The side stripes on the fuselage actually do not line up as one is higher than the other one (notice the chevron is a bit higher). A picture of the actual aircraft shows this detail.

Here is Miss Dora all dressed up and ready for a ride!

The salt chipping effect

Weathering was done with washes and dot filters

Oil paint dots are wiped with a thinner damp wide brush in the direction of the air flow.

Just about all is removed but just a hint blended in to give tonal value to the paint leaving subtle streaks.

The pipes were carefully hollowed out and painted several Alclad shades till I got the desired effect then polished them with a rag.

The tip lights were painted Tamiya clear green and red

and inserted into the tip openings. They look like real lights so Hasegawa scored high points here.

Wow what a fantastic build! She's a real beauty and your attention to details is amazing 

X2 PJ.  Will look beautiful on a base or dio if you ever decide to go that route.

You know, I'm a big fan of the 190 family and I'm an especially big fan of the D-9. It seems like this series of 190's just had the most aggressive looks and the wildest paint schemes of the whole bunch. You've managed to pull of a true eye catching replication of this beautiful aircraft. Atta boy Ernie!!

Hey Ernie, as said above, that is an eye catching model!  Details are nicely done, the paint job is spectacular, and the weathering is spot on.  Overall just excellent! 

Thanks gents! I have another one lined up as a late war example with even more details for an article submission in the not so distant future.

Joe the Dora is my all time favorite Greman fighter and hard to pick a favorite scheme. The look of the Dora and TA are just awesome in my book, long, sleek, powerful and graceful.

The 109K follows close behind. Just too many cool looking schemes. 

Very nice!

Thanks for showing the effects of the oil paint dots and explaining what you did there.  I want to try that on my next one.

Best Regards,

kensar

Very nice!

Thanks for showing the effects of the oil paint dots and explaining what you did there.  I want to try that on my next one.

 

Best Regards,

 

You are welcome. Just make sure when using solvent type thinners and oil paints over enamels to have an acrylic flat coat to protect the enamels and to properly blend the colors. On a gloss coat they don't blend as well.

A slight correction:

The Dora used the Junkers constant speed hydraulic VS 111 wood blades. The metal chipping was carefully painted over with a combination of Vallejo new wood and dark brown paints mixed and thinned with water so they flowed into each tiny chip, applied with a 10/0 brush. Once dry a 8000 pad was used to polish out the blades.

She turned out awesome!  Great job!

Thanks Fly!

Super finish! Your attention to detail shows in this handsome aircraft model.

Thanks Mike!

Man PJ, I'm impressed on both the weathering and how that spinner came out.  

Thanks Scott.