1/32 Hasegawa FW190D-9 WIP (Completed)

Regardless of all the trouble, the belts look good from my chair, Ernie. Kudos for pressing on even though you hated them.

Don't recall seeing so much detail in a wheel well before. Very cool.

I keep saying my next airplane model is going to be 1/32. You might have pushed me over the edge.

Thanks Greg. Yes the belts were a hasle to put together but they turned out ok. I find 1/32 a bit easier to add details to. I have a 1/24 George that will be a blast to super detail.

I decided not to go plum loco with rivet counting on this one and will be adding just the basics to add a little more detail to the surface. It's a fine model but Hasegawa should have included at least some of the riveting.

Heck if Jerry Crandall built several of these and didn't do the riveting (at least on some) so that's good enough for me.

The Dora has a ton of riveting and I do mean a TON. I have an old Kookaburra Technical Publications  for the FW 190 and Ta 152 which has some really nice detailed aircraft diagrams showing all the riveting. It's easier to do this task prior to assembling the model so the next one will get ALL of the darn rivets.

I used my Verlinden scribing set for this one, taping down the soft metal ruler to use as a guide. Click on the image for a closeup.

The effect is subbtle and effective. The Micro Mark riveting set does a fine job using slight pressure as the wheel is rolled. I then hit the area with a 4,000 grit pad to knock down the raised plastic.

The flaps are set almost vertical and they just don't look right as is.

Using the UMM saw, I carefully made light cuts on the attachment points and bent them so the flaps would have a lighter angle.

I used some Plast I Weld on the bend points to weld shut the cuts and let them dry overnight. Now the angle is lesser and looks better.

The prop spinner was also missing the riveting

I carefully rolled the riveting tool on the spinner.

Now to do the rest of the wings and some riveting on the fuselage, again just the basics.

I never had much luck with thin straightedges and rescribing, but I never thought to tape down the straightedge! Duh. Thanks for the common sense tip, Ernie.

All the rivits are looking good.

I am also building a Hase FW-190, kitted in the mid-1980s.  It has raised rivet and panel line wings and an engraved panel line fuse.  I drilled rivets along the panel lines for days.  I used masking tape marked every couple of mm for the rivet spacing.  It conforms to all the curves.

Greg

I never had much luck with thin straightedges and rescribing, but I never thought to tape down the straightedge! Duh. Thanks for the common sense tip, Ernie.

All the rivits are looking good.

 

Thanks Greg. The tape is very helpful.

kensar

I am also building a Hase FW-190, kitted in the mid-1980s.  It has raised rivet and panel line wings and an engraved panel line fuse.  I drilled rivets along the panel lines for days.  I used masking tape marked every couple of mm for the rivet spacing.  It conforms to all the curves.

 

Yes I use thin masking tape, Tamiya plastic tape, Dymo tape  and even strips of electrical tape for certain angles and curves.

More riveting

This red tape from HL is perfect for irregular surfaces specially on the hood.

The hood looks better now

The red tape was also used around the cowl ring

I wiped on some washable blue paint to make most of the details easier to see. I made sure not to go too deep to keep it subtle.

A little work goes a long way!  Coming along nicely!

Wow, the riviting is really good.

I'd sure like to see how you paint the props. I like the idea of assembling the prop/spinner then painting.

I recently got my Rosie the Riveter tools for all 3 scales, so I thought I would practice on a 1/72 P-40 by doing it free hand. Well Ernie, I must again thank you for this post because i can really see the difference between my rivet rows and yours by using a straight edge guide . I will from now on, it's well worth the extra effort to use some kind of guide to apply rivets thanks to your generous post.

Thanks Keyda, dog and Greg.

Greg , the spinner is being held in place temporarily by some Aleene's. After the paint goes on and when dry then the spinner is removed so the rest of the prop hub can be painted in a silver color then re assembled.

Thanks Jay and you are welcome. You need the help of some kind of guide being masking, dymo tape or thin metal or plastic strip to keep the rivet lines straight and true. I also ordered a jewelers setting beading set for making other rivet types.

Wow, looks fantastic!  Awesome detailing!  I wish I had that kind of talent and execution.

Your friend, Toshi

PJ

Yer killin' it with those rivets. Really nicely done. That's the kind of thing that throws it over the top if you get it right, and really drags it down if you don't. Happily, you're firmly in the former camp.

I'm going to make a note of this thread for when I next have a rivet situation. 

Thanks

-J

Riveting is truly a labor of love - a lot of hours go into that (particularly where you're using the jewelers' tools to get that truly rounded look) and you're absolutely doing a beautiful job of it, PJ! Nice work!

plasticjunkie

Greg , the spinner is being held in place temporarily by some Aleene's. After the paint goes on and when dry then the spinner is removed so the rest of the prop hub can be painted in a silver color then re assembled.

Why didn't I think of that? Very clever.

Thanks, Ernie!

Ach Du Leiber ! 

 I Haff read this tread . Oh Mein Gott ! All those widdle biddy rivets ! Now silliness over , You are doing an amazing amount of work there . Years ago I did AirFixes Ju87 in 1.24 .man was it fun .It didn't survive my trip to Ca. to set up housekeeping .

 I admire what you are doing and will follow this build till it's done . Then I will refer to it for a particular boat build I am doing piecemeal .

So I says to myself, "self, you will never be a rivet counter.  Nope, not me."  Then I see this thread, and those rivets add a LOT to that kit.

You are doing a great job on this kit PJ.  You are also, as my father used to say, "learning us a thing or two".  Excellent WIP that I will be following.

I went to Micro Mark, and I think I found one of the tools you used.  They call it a Pounce Wheel.  Comes in a set of three sizes.  Is that right?

Thanks,

D

Toshi

Wow, looks fantastic!  Awesome detailing!  I wish I had that kind of talent and execution.

Your friend, Toshi

 

Thanks so much Toshi. It's really easy adding them. You just need good references and go slow.

Johnny and Knight

Thanks for the positive comments. 

Thanks TB. Sorry to hear about your Ju52 not making it.

Thanks Greg. After separating the spinner from the back plate the gluing areas are clear of any paint for a strong positive clean join. 

Thanks Rambo and D.

D

I bought that set from Micromark at least 15 years ago and comes in very handy once in a while. They also have a Mini punch set that is fantastic.  

The wife and I flew up to SC to visit the grandkids so no modeling for a couple of days. 

PJ, very nice work on her.  Have the F-8 from ROG in 1/32 that will be heading for the bench in a bit, and you have given me ideas for improvements, but weather I can pull them off is another thing entirely.  It has nicely recessed lnes, but not much in rivet detail.  Will have to get one of those andsee if I can pull it off.

goldhammer

PJ, very nice work on her.  Have the F-8 from ROG in 1/32 that will be heading for the bench in a bit, and you have given me ideas for improvements, but weather I can pull them off is another thing entirely.  It has nicely recessed lnes, but not much in rivet detail.  Will have to get one of those andsee if I can pull it off.

 

Thanks GH! Hey I also have the Rog F8 and was hoping that it had the rivets. I wanted to check mine but we are away from home for a couple of days.

Aw ;

 That's alright . I didn't know my daughters crammed Barbie stuff in  the plane box , til we arrived . They couldn't figure out what happened to their heads though ! Yeah , I gave them back after about a week .

We had a blast visiting our grandkids, gosh they grow so fast! So the Dora is ready for paint. I shot gloss black in a marbling fashion to give tonal value to the topcoat once it is sprayed. Floquil Old Silver was randombly shot in areas to be chipped.

I'm doing the salt weathering technique. Using some water with a couple of drops of Dawn the area is brushed with the mix and salt sprinkled on. Once dry, most of the salt is removed with a toothpick. I want to have light chipping specially on the foot travel areas on the wings.

The gear doors get some salt for chipping from stones kicked up by the wheels.

The prop was sprayed Floquil Old Silver and selected areas were salted for chipping.

The spinner got the same treatment

I will be probably be having the tank NMF so it was sprayed with AK Extreme Metal Polished Aluminum. As a matter of fact, I see it as a VERY close match to Floquil Old Silver.

I still have to fine tune the salt grains on some of the areas.