lawdog114

 

PFJN

A hundred to a hundred and fifty bones!  Oh no.  The human body only has 206 bones total.  You must be flopping around like a Jelly Fish 

 

 

 

 

Yep........only 56 bones left!

 

With the work that went into this one, take a couple of those leftover bones and grab a couple of the favorite beverage......and well deserved at that.  Beautiful!!

Lawdog, your work is always stunning.  

This Mustang is no exception.  

Awesome finish!

Your friend, Toshi

PFJN

A hundred to a hundred and fifty bones!  Oh no.  The human body only has 206 bones total.  You must be flopping around like a Jelly Fish 

 

Yep........only 56 bones left!

A hundred to a hundred and fifty bones!  Oh no.  The human body only has 206 bones total.  You must be flopping around like a Jelly Fish 

Thanks guys...

Britt, I don't remember. I think I paid a shade over 100 bones for the kit on ebay and with the extras, it was probably close to 150. It's definitely worth the money, but I still would't mind trying the new Revell version next. I hear it's quite good too.

Merciful heavens! I don't understand how I missed this one of Joe's.

Another beauty!

Sorry guys, I had taken a break from the forum and did not see your comments.  Thanks for the kind words.   

She's a real stunner Joe! Thanks for sharing

Absolutely beautiful Mustang.

lawdog114

 

 

BrandonD

As for the canopy seam, I'm guessing you know it's a byproduct of the slide molding process to get the detail on the frame and get the shape right, but yeah, that's super annoying. I had that on my Meng P-51D, and I used the Dallas canopy as a test bed. Sanding it isn't actually too difficult. To preserve the shape, I used the Flex-I-File U-shaped sanding tool that takes a piece of sandpaper on the open ends of the U. That lets it flex so you don't get flat spots. I polished it with micro mesh, and it was like it was never there.

http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/flx0123.htm

 

 

Thanks Brandon. Yeah I'm aware of that and remember the Meng being the same way. I don't recall Airfix havig this issue though, so obviously it can be done. Tamiya should be able to figure this out.  Thanks for the link to the files and I may try your technique.  Where do you get Micro Mesh?    

 

I agree they shouldbe able to figure it out. I can only guess it has to do with detail on the sides or something.

As for Micro Mesh, I get it on eBay or Amazon, and the local hobby shop carries it, too, and I've bought it fromthem in the past.

-BD-

Thanks for all the kind words all.  

BrandonD

As for the canopy seam, I'm guessing you know it's a byproduct of the slide molding process to get the detail on the frame and get the shape right, but yeah, that's super annoying. I had that on my Meng P-51D, and I used the Dallas canopy as a test bed. Sanding it isn't actually too difficult. To preserve the shape, I used the Flex-I-File U-shaped sanding tool that takes a piece of sandpaper on the open ends of the U. That lets it flex so you don't get flat spots. I polished it with micro mesh, and it was like it was never there.

http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/flx0123.htm

Thanks Brandon. Yeah I'm aware of that and remember the Meng being the same way. I don't recall Airfix havig this issue though, so obviously it can be done. Tamiya should be able to figure this out.  Thanks for the link to the files and I may try your technique.  Where do you get Micro Mesh?    

She's a real beauty, Joe. Thanks for the WIP. (and for the mini-review of the AK Interactive metal paints too)

As always Joe- friggin' perfect!!! 

I swear with a little Photoshopping on the background I'd think she was the real 1/1th scale thing! 

Excellent work, Joe!

I agree they should have alternate parts for a solidly closed cowling. As for the canopy seam, I'm guessing you know it's a byproduct of the slide molding process to get the detail on the frame and get the shape right, but yeah, that's super annoying.

I had that on my Meng P-51D, and I used the Dallas canopy as a test bed. Sanding it isn't actually too difficult. To preserve the shape, I used the Flex-I-File U-shaped sanding tool that takes a piece of sandpaper on the open ends of the U. That lets it flex so you don't get flat spots. I polished it with micro mesh, and it was like it was never there.

http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/flx0123.htm

Anyway, great build, and I can't wait to see your next project.

-BD-

Well done.

Like a nice wine, enjoyed regulary!

Thanks guys. 

I'm finally done with this guy.  To recap, it's Tamiya's 1/32 scale P-51 in the markings of George Preddy's Cripes A Mighty 3rd.  This was the plane he scored most of his 26.83 kills in.  After market goodies were PE belts an Eduard Brassin wheels.

This was an extremely detailed kit but dare I say somewhat over-engineered. The nose was a pain to get closed up and it still isn't perfect.  I wish they would realize not everyone wants to see the engine, so make it easier to build closed up.  I also don't like the seam down the middle of the sliding canopy.  For a $100.00 plus kit this is unacceptable to me.  I certainly wasn't going to try to sand that out.  Aside from these nit-picks, It was a great build and I see more in my future.     

I used AK Interactive Xtreme Metals for the first time.  I have mixed feelings about these too.  They spray nice but take a long time to cure and they scratch easily.  I think I'll stick with Alclad.  I used Maketar masks for the insignias.  Weathering was a mix of Flory and AK Streaking Fluid.  I was going for well used. 

Thanks for following...

Hey Joe,

Looking good mate, been following from the back row.

Keep up the outstanding work mate.

Damian

A bit late to the party so my commented is dated.....

I always wondered what a Lawdog cockpit would look like in 1/32. Holy Cow, Joe.

.....now to get caught up on the rest of the thread (and BTW, I'm both suprised and reassured that the great Lawdog might be intimidated by a kit due to it's high price. Thought that was just me)

I'm in for an update.  I chose CAM 3 with partial invasion stripes.  I began taping off the areas with Tamiya tape and I used a steel ruler to measure the width of the stripes. Between this one and the P-47, I thought my eyes were going to go cross-eyed.  The end results are worth it though.  

I procured a Maketar mask set for this project which I used for the stars and bars.  They fought me a bit as they were very flimsy and difficult to get into position.  I eventually managed.   

After painting the stars and bars, I added the main decals from the Eagle Cals sheet.  I had no issues. I still have to add the stencil markings and such.  

Soon it will get weathering....

RadMax8

I think the reason you were able to achieve such a smooth finish was due to the longer drying time of the enamel paint vs. the almost instant drying of the Alclad lacquer. The pebbling is caused by the paint drying prior to making it to the surface. It may be worth increasing the pressure so the paint gets to the surface quicker. Since bench time is precious, I can see the frustration with the AK paint   Just my take on the matter... if I’m wrong please correct me!

Max, you are correct. The dried "pebbles" bounce off the wing root and it's quite annoying.  I've had better results by puttng the Alclad on wet by getting in close.  I never thought of the air pressure.  I spray around 20 psi for everything.       

Jay Jay

 

A big thanks for posting the Youtube on Mr. Preddy, fascinating . Such a crying shame that after all of the combat he was in he was shot down by his own side.

 

Thanks guys...

Jay, indeed....it was very inspirational.   

Looks great Joe I'll second the tamiya flexible tape.  It works great for masking off stripes on bombs.  I only wish they had a 1mm tape which would be better IMO for 1:48 scale

Joe,

Looks fantastic, as always. I like that you aren’t afraid to try something new. 

I think the reason you were able to achieve such a smooth finish was due to the longer drying time of the enamel paint vs. the almost instant drying of the Alclad lacquer. The pebbling is caused by the paint drying prior to making it to the surface. It may be worth increasing the pressure so the paint gets to the surface quicker. Since bench time is precious, I can see the frustration with the AK paint  

Just my take on the matter... if I’m wrong please correct me!

Looks like a very good kit in great hands. Again and as always, I'm with you on this one.  

A big thanks for posting the Youtube on Mr. Preddy, fascinating . Such a crying shame that after all of the combat he was in he was shot down by his own side.