Baron,

Aves is great - like freshly chewed gum.  Much easier on the fingers compared to Milliput.

Real G

...Too bad lead bird shot is no longer available - I mix epoxy putty into it to make form fitting weights that can be fit into any sort of nook or cranny... 

I use the same technique, except with BBs.  I'm building the old Monogram Constellation, and I used Aves A&B mixed with BBs to fill the nose to just aft to the forward boarding door.  I even stuck a little bit into the nose cone (probably overkill).  It works well.

Real G

Too bad lead bird shot is no longer available - I mix epoxy putty into it to make form fitting weights that can be fit into any sort of nook or cranny.  Don't forget locations like under the coaming ahead of the IP and inside the side consoles.  I had read some stories where CA glue caused lead shot to expand, and I can confirm that it does happen.  Epoxy putty is benign and causes no problems.

I use tungsten weights now and just glue them in place with a little blob of epoxy.  They're a good way to get a lot of weight in the smallest possible package.  Tungsten putty is also a good way to give model wheel chocks some weight.

Eaglecash867

 

 

armornut

  4lbs or $10.00 plus tax for inflation.

 

 

 

 

 

You have to get Rhode Island Reds to get up to 4lbs.  Our white leghorns would only make 2-2 1/2 lbs when cleaned and plucked.

35G is either stupendous crushing force or the next data service speed.  

But seriously, adequate nose weight is when it's enough.  As others have said, disregard any numbers given on the instruction sheet and perform a balance check.  Be sure to set your balance point slightly ahead of the main gear to ensure no surprises at the end.

Too bad lead bird shot is no longer available - I mix epoxy putty into it to make form fitting weights that can be fit into any sort of nook or cranny.  Don't forget locations like under the coaming ahead of the IP and inside the side consoles.  I had read some stories where CA glue caused lead shot to expand, and I can confirm that it does happen.  Epoxy putty is benign and causes no problems.

armornut

  4lbs or $10.00 plus tax for inflation.

 

  4lbs or $10.00 plus tax for inflation.

35G = 1.23459 oz

Is it anything like a Henweigh?

What's a Henweigh?

I checked the inflation calculator- 35g in 2006 is 48.2g today...

You guys in the US really need to come over to the mertic system like the rest of us LOL

Way easier than doing fractions ;-)

Theuns

fox

Does anyone have a sliderule? 

Jim 

Stay Safe.

 

Yeah, I've got one.  But I consider it a collectors item, since my last scientific calculator cost me eleven bucks.

Does anyone have a sliderule? 

Jim 

Stay Safe.

You have to cut him a break, he's a new guy

Thanks for trying to help, rsneha, and welcome.

rsneha

 

 

Anonymous

http://www.onlineconversion.com/ here you go makes life really easy.  You can convert the grams to ounces and use fishing weights.  I buy several differnt weights ranging from 1/8th to 1 ounce and add them accordingly.

 

 

 

 

Thanks or you can also try this unit converter site.

 

I almost got sucked in to answering a 15 year old post,

But I kinda just go by feel.

Anonymous

http://www.onlineconversion.com/ here you go makes life really easy.  You can convert the grams to ounces and use fishing weights.  I buy several differnt weights ranging from 1/8th to 1 ounce and add them accordingly.

 

Thanks or you can also try this unit converter site.

Hi! this is the conversion:

1gr = 0.035274 oz

1 gr = 0.0022046 pound

now you do the math

bye

Jeremias

I 've used some thin aluminum sheet and made "forms" for molding melted lead to fit between instrument panels and bulkheads (P-61 & B-25) along side the nose wheelwell of the B-29, inside the instrument panels of the B-29, even inside the nose wheels.   I am motorizing these so the extra weight of the electric motors behind the dummy engines help a lot.  I use lead shot and fishing weights. 

LOL............geez, you guys make life hard for yourselves! 
Mate, just tape the fuselage, booms and wings together (the major weight of the model), tape a pencil (spanwise) to the booms RIGHT where the rear gear would be located (to act as a fulcrum), then  pile on the weight in the nose until the nose stays down even when you push the down tail to the deck.
Make sure you account for any extra bits like the weight of a resin cockpit, spinners and props - maybe tape them in place as well.
I've used this method for years - especially on airliners - and have NEVER had a tail dragger.
This method allows you to put just enough weight in to keep the nose down without adding more than is needed.  Best of all, it's dead easy and there's no maths involved.
Remember, the further forward you have the weight, the less you'll need, as torque (or turning moment) equals force times distance.
In short, I've never actually weighed the ballast in the nose of a model using this method - there's no need.