Gamera

.

Pepper: Thanks for posting the out of the box photo of the F-86. I've heard how good this kit is and it's nice to see one 'up close'. It's gonna be cool watching you build her. Sad to say I've never built a F-86 either.  

 Personally I use Micro Krystal Kleer too. I think Testor's makes a product that's about the same thing

Thank you ... the kit is a little bit 'fiddly' ... I'm having a wee bit of trouble getting the fuselage to mate up neatly, but a brisk sanding of both the right and left sides will produce a nice, flat and true surface on each ...

The Testor's product is called 'Clear Parts Cement and Window Maker' ... I've found it to be rather 'runny' and have never had any luck making windows with it ... I stick with the Micro Scale product ...

The photo shows how I've started sanding resin parts ... this is a Pyrex cake 'pan'... you, of course, can use any sort of pan or dish that has a 'lip' around it to hold water in ... I get the sanding blocks at Lowes and have them in grits from 100 to 400 ... I fill the pan about halfway full of water and depending on what resin part I'm going to sand, I start with the appropriate grit # ...

What's really neat about this is that as I sand, I push the block to the bottom of the pan ... the part is completely covered with water ... I then move the part on the block, back and forth, sanding it down to the point I've removed the pour stubs from it and I have a 'ready to go' part ... I take my finger off the sanding block and it 'pops up', rinsing the part off as it does ... a quick run under the sink faucet takes care of removing any bits and pieces and resin dust ...

The neat thing here is that no resin dust floats around to be inhaled or cover your working area ... the sanding block has a sponge interior and when done, I just squeeze the water out and let it dry ... the grit is 'wet or dry' ...

The cost is about $1.50 for a package of two (each grit) and they will last 'forever' ...

pepper

Hey all!

Uber-stoopid armour queries:  First, did the UN armour/vehicles wear the star in a circle during the Korean conflict?  Second:  Did the M-7's have the VVSS or HVSS suspension at the time?  Third:  What headgear did the Lieys (Brits, Aussies, Kiwis, etc.) wear during the campaign?  Did the wear the US two piece or the 'Tommy' steel bowl with brim? 

Four:  (Aircraft, this time) Is anyone specifically building any DPRK/NKPA/CCVA equipment or aircraft for the GB?

advTHANKSance!

ob-KoreanWarPost:  Still trying to decide on the next kit, also looking at armour as well as 'big' kits.

SP: Wow she looks terrific! Love the shading on the panel lines- subtle but clearly there. Funny, hate to say this but after thirty years of modeling I've never built an F-8. It was an awesome fighter though.

Pepper: Thanks for posting the out of the box photo of the F-86. I've heard how good this kit is and it's nice to see one 'up close'. It's gonna be cool watching you build her. Sad to say I've never built a F-86 either.

Future can be used to hold clear parts together I suppose. Personally I use Micro Krystal Kleer too. I think Testor's makes a product that's about the same thing. A white glue like Elmer's will work as well but it dries with a more milky look than straight clear.  

stikpusher

PK, there is actually only about 15 years between the design of the F4U and the F8U. The F4U dates from the late 1930s in design while the F8U design began in 1952. But at a time when aviation technology was growing by leaps and bounds. About all they have in common is being single seat, single engine carrier based fighters. 

Yep, you're right on ... and ain't it amazing ? ...

I marvel these days at airplanes (actually, just about all things) being designed with computers and then think of Kelly Johnson and his team at the origianl Skunk Works, designing the SR-71 Blackbird with sliderules, paper and pencil ...

Amazing, to say the least ...

pepper

PK, there is actually only about 15 years between the design of the F4U and the F8U. The F4U dates from the late 1930s in design while the F8U design began in 1952. But at a time when aviation technology was growing by leaps and bounds. About all they have in common is being single seat, single engine carrier based fighters.

ww2psycho

Thanks stik, do I have to scrape paint from the area its going to be applied too like normal glue?

You should ...

You can also try Micro Scale Krystal Klear and/or Testors Canopy Glue or from we flying model airplane guys, you can use - I believe this is right  - RC 56 Canopy Glue ... your LHS will carry it and know what I'm referring to ...

Boy, what a monster difference between the F4 and the F8, yes ? ... separated by what - maybe 20 years or so ?, but look at how the one in no way resembles the other except  they're both airplanes ...

pepper

Thanks stik, do I have to scrape paint from the area its going to be applied too like normal glue?

Psycho, yes future does work for holding parts together. It is not as strong as clear glues are in most cases, but it will work.

As far as my model work goes, I am knuckling down on the few builds I have that can be completed before sundown tomorrow brings the model building year to a close here. This morning I completed Monogram's 1/48 F-8E. It is semi Korean War related due to the F-8 being developed off Navy combat experience in Korea and what their fighter pilots wanted in a fighter.

and here posed with another Vought fighter and Korean War bird, the F4U (built many years ago).

I'll hopefully get the natural metal painted on the mig15 this weekend. Does anyone know if you can use future to hold clear parts together? I thought I remembered reading it somewhere but cannot remember where.

Heya Helo!

Not so sure about the M-19, I'd say go with either a Mack Chassis (check out http://stores.ebay.com/smallmilitarymodelsandmore )or go with the Scammel from the Airfix Airfield Recovery Equipment set.  That would look more realistic.  Although I don't know that they ever had that crane unit, they WERE used for cranes at one point or another.

Also, I've just finished two more kits!  WOOHOO!  How did I do this so quickly?  I kinda sorta cheated.  Both were mods of Shermans (Dozer and USMC flame tank) used in Korea, so I used the appropriate kit from Armourfast (Hat).  for the dozer I used the resin conversion from Calibre 72 in England (available from Hannants) and applied it to an M4A3 105mm to make a US Army dozer chassis.  The other was an M4A3  which received an additional barrel to the right and a little below the main gun barrel.  I was a straight tube and closely resembled a 90mm gun tube, but not as long as the standard barrel.  Extra stowage was added, included a 55gal drum on the back deck.  I've still got a few Shermans left to build after this!  The standard M-4A3E8, the M-.7 GMC, and the M-32 ARV. 

For the M-32, I've got the instructions from the Italeri 1/35 scale kit to go as a guide and for some detail info.  So that I can focus on the scratchbuilding, I'm going to be using the second M-4A3 standard gun kit from Armourfast.  I actually like these kits because they have really nice fit, decent detail, and I can focus my attention on developing my finishing (and other) skills.

So, in my week off I've finished my two ambulances, litter bearers, started and finished my dozer tank, started and finished my flame tank, as well as opening, uploading pictures to, and captioning a photobucket account.  I'm feeling pretty proud of myself!

Great work everyone ;

I'm still thinking of building some type of truck/crane ; So I was going through the spares box and found a old Airfix Coles MK 7 crane .

I'm not sure how accurate this will look , I'm thinking of mounting the boom section to the chassie of the Diamond T [M19] Transporter . I sat the pieces together to see how things would look , so far this is all I can come up with ???

Anyone have any comments .

                             John .

Heya Pepper;

Looks like that's the 1/48th version.  Least wise, mine doesn't have an engine in it.  :)  I hope it's as nice as the 1/72 scale version.

Everyone else;

Well, it looks like Google-sites has a maximum image limit.  I'm not sure what to do about my web site at this point.  I'm considering opening up a second Google-sites site and just linking everything to it, But I'd rather not do that.  It would also be a major pain to transfer everything over.  In the meantime, I really just want to get my pictures up and visible to people.  I've opened up a photobucket account at this location:

http://s1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa345/the_tunnan/

and it has all of my up to date pictures on it, including pictures of the Jeep Ambulance WIP and the Dodge Ambulance WIP with the litter bearers and patient.  Of note to some are the F3D-2 and some of the armour pics.  Out of all of the pictures, Ii have to say that this one of the ambulances is my favorite.

[View:http://s1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa345/the_tunnan/?action=view&current=75mmgunncrew-1.jpg#!oZZ172QQcurrentZZhttp://s1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa345/the_tunnan/?action=view&current=Bamablancez.jpg:550:550]

Build what you want, they'll flame you every time!

stikpusher

PK, I cant answer you as to why the pour stubs are so big. I suppose that is just how those things work. Resin has its advantages and disadvantages. Using select parts is  probably a wise choice.

No problem ... I guess I just don't understand why they have such huge pour stubs ... as I said, I cast parts all the time and can clean them up with my sprue cutters ... oh well !! ...

I've just started my F-86 - pictures below - and have plenty of time now to work diligently on it ...

Hope to have it done before the New Year rolls in ... the only thing that's going to hold me up is painting ... 'tis mighty cold right now and I have great difficulty getting paint to spray correctly when the temps dip ...

Anyhoo, I'm off to the races with this Sabre Jet and am anticipating a smooth build ...

pepper

SP: Sorry just going from a modeler's perspective the beret is so simple to make out of putty. Not going to argue with the fact that's it's not the most practical form of head gear.

PK, I cant answer you as to why the pour stubs are so big. I suppose that is just how those things work. Resin has its advantages and disadvantages. Using select parts is  probably a wise choice.

Gamera, the figures are looking great. Nice work with the Hudson heads. Looks like your nearing the home stretch. As far as berets go, they can be one nice looking piece of headgear, but other than that, they don't have much use. Yes they do keep the top of your head warm, but they don't keep the sun out of your eyes or rain off your face, ears,and back of your neck...

Gamera

 Just stick a blob of putty on the guy's head and SMOOSH it !!!

ROFLMAO, Classic mate

Andrew

Andrew: Sharp! Nice clean build. Looking forward to seeing her in some olive drab.

Andy: Great work. They'll look great with the chopper. Gee, your hands are steadier than mine to paint figures in 1/72nd.

Anyway, not the best photos and I've still a good bit of work to do as yet. But here's the K1A1 crew. Am going to bore you with details here so if you don't want to know or care what went into the figures skip down to the photo

The driver on the left has a body and arms straight from Academy's ROK Tank Crew set with an East Asian head from Hornet mounted in a helmet I took from the K1A1 figures where I removed the molded head with a motor tool.

The commander in the centre was the commander figure from the tank kit with a Hornet head and beret I made from putty. I wish every solder wore a beret since it's the easiest hat in the universe to make. Just stick a blob of putty on the guy's head and SMOOSH it !!! The arms were from the parts box.

The gunner on the right consists of the body from the tank kit again fitted with a head from the Academy ROK K-9 howitzer kit. Again arms from the spares bin.

Lookin good Andrew.  Can't wait to see it all painted up.

Hi All:

I've a question for the group ...

I've started on my 2nd project and am using some resin parts ... why are the pour stubs on aftermarket parts so HUGE ? ... geez, the pour stub/block on the cockpit tub is bigger than the tub itself ...

I cast a lot of parts in resin myself, both for my models and my train layout, and I can clip the pour stub off with sprue cutters ... the thing I'm working on now, has already taken over an hour of sawing back and forth and I'm not even half way finished with it ...

In fact, I've decided to just chunk it into the spare parts box and use the tub from the kit .. .I am going to use the seat and instrument panel though as they are far superior to the kit versions and their rpour stubs are teeny-tiny too ...

Thanks,

pepper

Looks great

WOOHOO!!!

Got Photobucket to work for one of y pictures, FINALLY!  Here's a sweet@$$ picture of my bamabalancez!  I'm not sure how to make a bandage in 1/72 scale, so I didn't put any on the DPRK soldier.  The idea is, the truck broke down, so they're conveying him to the jeep.  I'm going to display them next to my H-13 that's converted to a MASH chopper.  See my website for that one.

?action=view&current=Bamablancez.jpg

Nice work on the F-84 Hope my build comes up as nice.

Progress? Well with 5 kids and christmas, not much. Have gotten some done here and there (only kit I have). Just a few more parts to go then the paint.

Andrew

Andy ,

Italeri's 1/72 C-47 pratically falls together itself .

She's a very pleasing build , you could probably get her built and painted in about a week .

Like you I'm busting to get stuck in on some of the large transports but I still have a ton of work to do for the Air America fleet .

                              John .

Great work on the T-jet PK!  I'm going to be rebuilding mine over my winter break.  The Academy decals just didn't have enough glue on them and wanted to curl back as they dried.  If you see the pics on my web page you'll see what I mean.  I've since bought another kit and have different decals.  I don't think mine will be up to yours, but it is a danged fine kit and almost falls together!

My next decision is also what kit to build next.  I want to start on something 'big', like one of my bombers or cargo planes, but not sure what.

Also, I love what you did with the photography!  I wish I had something more than my cheapy scuba diving camera here.  I may have to talk to one of my friends who has a GOOD camera and to take a few shots. 

Helo H-34

Excellent work on the F-84 Thunderjet , Pepper .

I agree with the others the metal finish looks flawless .

I also like the decal markings and the B/W photo's look awesome .

A great build all round and a great way to finish off 2010

Well done Sir

                         

  Couldn't have said it better myself.  Great build.

Thanks for the advice Pepper I'm going to have to give it a try for my next NM build. Somehow I keep getting dust in my paint, using fast dry acrylic and buffing it with the steel wool sounds like it would take much of the contaminates out of the paint.

Helo H-34

Excellent work on the F-84 Thunderjet , Pepper .

I agree with the others the metal finish looks flawless .

I also like the decal markings and the B/W photo's look awesome .

A great build all round and a great way to finish off 2010

Well done Sir

                           John .

Thank you, John ... I really had fun shooting the photos using the different modes - sepia, B / W and color ... really changes the appearance when you shoot the different ways, doncha think ?? ...

Since posting a few minutes ago, I've decided to build the Academy F-86-30 in 1/48 and then a tank and a ship TBD later ...

Thanks again,

pepper

Excellent work on the F-84 Thunderjet , Pepper .

I agree with the others the metal finish looks flawless .

I also like the decal markings and the B/W photo's look awesome .

A great build all round and a great way to finish off 2010

Well done Sir

                           John .

Gamera

Pepper: Wow, great looking F-84! Your NM looks flawless and the decals give a nice splash of colour to her. 

Thanks a bunch ... I tried something different on this build re the NM finish ...

I used Tamiya Titan Silver, thinned 80% paint, 20% distilled water ... shot at 20 lbs of pressure ... it was dry in less than 5 minutes, but I waitied until the next day to buff it all with 0000 (#4) steel wool ... the tailcone was brush painted with 'jet exhaust' (Model Metalizer) and 'clear orange' from Tamiya ...

The rest of the painting was done with acrylics as well ... I've started using them for 99% of all painting, finding their advantages far outweigh any perceived disadvantages ... I love 'em !! ...

The decals do add the finishing touch ... these were straight from the kit box and worked absolutely beautifully ... I just dunked 'em in water, dried off on a paper towel and then applied straight away ... went back over them later with MicroSet (?) in the red bottle ...

These birds - Korean War - were the beginning of the end for the colorful aircraft we love so much ... the basic gray or digital camo schemes used now are more than boring ...

Thanks again to one and all for your help and support ... I've learned a whole lot from reading all the posts and have already used some of the very good tips and suggestions posted here ...

Now - a quandry for sure - what to build next ? ...

pepper

stikpusher

PK, your Thunderjet came out great. How did you like the kit? I have one I am still decaling almost done. I have added your completed shot to the page 1 roster. Very nice work!

Thank you for the exposure on Page 1 and the compliment ... this makes up for my frustration with the Sea Fury ...

I thought the kit was great all except for the nose gear ... a fragile part with a very small attachment point ... I fiddled with that more than anything else  and finally used metal gear struts at all 3 positions ... that helped simplify the procedure a bunch ...

The instruction sheet has several errors in it, but was easy enough to figure out ... the fit of all parts was great and I used no filler anywhere ... some gentle sanding on the top of the fusealage seam was all that was necessary ... the clear parts were excellent as well ... 

The decals went on flawlessly ... I didn't use them all as there are more than 100 of 'em in the kit and a lot are teeny-tiny to the point of being illegible ...

All in all, this was a great build and with so manyy color/decal schemes to choose from, I've already started looking for a duplicate kit  ... I found this one at my nearest  HobbytownUSA right on their shelf ...

Thanks again,

pepper