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The Ostfront (eastern front) GB 2010/11

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  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Thursday, July 7, 2011 4:54 PM

TREY- LOL!  Thanks for the compliment. Beer  Did I ever tell you that my Storch and Piper kits have arrived last week?  They both look awesome!  I think I am going to build a Storch if there will be second Ostfront GB... Whistling 

Andy

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, July 8, 2011 1:03 AM

Its always nice to get the Zimm done. The results can make alot lof difference, but its tedious getting there. Have you got any tools holders going onto the Zimmed areas, i know some Pz IV's had a tow cable on the back. Was just woundering how you will attach them. I have seen some people attach stuff un top of the Zimm, rather than into it. I like the look of the muffeler. I have never used that Mr Surfacer, but heard alot about it. Is it the Mr Surfacer that leave that surface or does it affect the plastic.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Friday, July 8, 2011 12:23 PM

Bish, you read my mind... scary enough!!!  I glued one of spare wheel holder on the Zimm in the rear... I wonder if it will hold.  I managed to find a gap at both ends so it will stay attached.  Keep your fingers crossed...

Now for the steel cable I am planning to paint it separately first then attach it on the hull in the rear at the end.  I will probably use CA and hope it will work too. Tongue Tied

I am a big fan of Mr Surfacer... it has been difficult getting those lately so I managed to order four bottles.  I really like the Mr Surfacer 1200 very much and I use it as primer.  Mr Surfacer 500 is very thick and I use it to fill in tiny gaps or make surface rough just like you saw on the muffler. 

Planning to apply Mr Surfacer 1200 on my Panzer IV and several figures tonight... can't wait! Stick out tongue

Andy

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Friday, July 8, 2011 12:31 PM

deafpanzer

I am a big fan of Mr Surfacer... it has been difficult getting those lately so I managed to order four bottles.  I really like the Mr Surfacer 1200 very much and I use it as primer.  Mr Surfacer 500 is very thick and I use it to fill in tiny gaps or make surface rough just like you saw on the muffler. 

Hey Andy - despite my stash, I've actually never used Mr. Surfacer 500 (used 1200 plenty of times). Do you think it'd be thick enough to fill the panel lines on my P-51's wings, or am I going to have to break down and use putty?

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Friday, July 8, 2011 12:49 PM

Doogs- Good question about Mr Surfacer 500 and panel lines.  Depending on how deep or big the gaps are.  Earlier I tried on my figures to hide the gaps between the arms and the body but it didn't work out so I went back to ol' faithful CA to fill the gaps. 

But I did use Mr Surfacer 500 to hide the seam on the air filter last night and I thought it worked out after a small sanding job.  I will take a picture and post over the weekend so you can see for yourself.  It may need second coat after it is primed.  Stay posted...

The vendors were out of Mr Surfacer 1200 so I ordered four bottles of Mr Surfacer 1000 instead.  I think they are close enough and I will just add little more thinner this time. 

Andy

  • Member since
    March 2009
  • From: East Bay, CA
Posted by Lundergaard on Friday, July 8, 2011 1:51 PM

The 500 seems to shrink a bit on gaps so it requires quite a few applications but it dries fast.  I've found that dabbing rather than brushing tends to keep it right on the gap rather than the surrounding areas.  usually takes about 3-5 dabbings to really fill it but eventually it does and sands down nicely.  on big gaps i lay in stretched sprue with Tenax and then Mr S 500 to smooth it over completely.

cheers

other Andy (Lundergaard)

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Saturday, July 9, 2011 10:08 AM

Guys, update on my Panzer IV... yes, it is finally primed! 

Stayed up til 3am having all figures and Panzer primed... Sleep  At least I am a bachelor until tomorrow. Big Smile

Andy

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by kermit on Saturday, July 9, 2011 10:19 AM

Deaf,

Your patience is to be commended![;]Yes Top notch work sir!

And from what i hear around here there is most likely going to be a Ostfront 2 so y'all can plan your builds accordinglyWinkStick out tongue Theres still so much i want to build with this subject in mind.....too many options, so little time...

Richard

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, July 9, 2011 10:27 AM

Great work Deaf, looking very nice.

Richard, will the Ostfront II carry staright on from this one or will tehre be a gap between them.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by kermit on Saturday, July 9, 2011 10:55 AM

Bish,

I guess since there is such an interest i think it would be wise to do just that. New thread, same subject, the very next day. Ofcourse you can also start early and carry over to the new GB. I am not known for being fussy and strictSmile

Richard

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, July 9, 2011 11:09 AM

Glad to hear that. I think that what i am going to have to do as i can't seeing me starting on the 251 before Sept.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by kermit on Monday, July 25, 2011 11:17 AM

Hey guys,

Since i just completed my shiny B17 for the NMF GB i have some room on the bench cleared up for this baby i was planning for a while now:

This Revell box is actually a Hasegawa in disguise. The following sprueshot will show you some of the nice detail this model has on the in- and outside:

No less than 4 different versions can be built with the big decal sheet provided:

At the moment i am leaning toward attempting a winterised pattern of white squiggles over a standard splinter camo as shown on the right but i haven't really made up my mind a 100% on that...Hmm:

Hope to start cutting some sprue very soonBig Smile

Richard

 

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by kermit on Friday, July 29, 2011 2:01 PM

And here we are back a day or so later with some office progress. It has decent detail OOB albeit slightly modest but since most of it is the same color, assembly went fast. Should look fine through the glass once finished:

First i sprayed the cockpit and fuselage components in RLM 02. After everything was assembled wich didn't take long i added an overall black watercolor wash and drybrushing with white enamel. It darkened the basecoat somewhat so it can pass for a lighter RLM66 as well methinks. Reasearching this planes colors i found some controversy regarding the proper RLM shade for the office so i tried to go inbetweenSmile

After that was all done and joined i could already close up the fuselage early in the build. The IP will be glued to the glass nose section which is up next, together with assembling the wings

Stay tunedWink

Richard

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, July 29, 2011 2:29 PM

That does look rather nice inside. Is this kit their own mold or is it from someone else. Deffinatly looks better than the italeri kit.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by kermit on Friday, July 29, 2011 2:36 PM

Bish,

You caught me red handedWink. This bomber is actually a hasegawa rebox from what i have read.

Richard

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, July 29, 2011 3:40 PM

Only half the price. Well gives me a taister of what i have to look forward to with my Hase 111 kits.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by kermit on Saturday, July 30, 2011 12:13 PM

An afternoon of masking delight....movie on the laptop.... Heaven!Angel

Richard

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Sunday, July 31, 2011 9:48 AM

Richard- I am not really into wingy things but I do enjoy following plane WIPs especially this.  This canopy really scares me... I'd rather to be doing 200 indy tracks! LOL

Guys- I have been away for nearly two weeks... I am feeling so refreshed so I can not wait to return to my work bench and work on my Panzer IV.  Because I like to include few figures with all of my armors, I worked on the figures for a bit before I went away... applied base coat of paints of German Grey and black, etc.

I am still undecided on the camo scheme... leaning between those two I found in my reference book. 

 

I think I am going with the first scheme because I like the look of painted wheels and I don't think anybody has done this camo scheme before here in FSM? 

Andy

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by kermit on Sunday, July 31, 2011 10:02 AM

Deafpanzer,

I for one haven't seen the first scheme before anywhere. Looks great thoughSmile Here is where we are different i guess... Schemes like that scare me though i am willing to give it another go now that i recently upgraded my airbrushBig Smile The only thing bothering me is those side skirts... Some are missing/ ripped off so one would assume the other ones that are still there would show some deformations and damage... Just a thought.

It is really not that hard to mask canopies as long as you use a fresh knife and a steady hand along with some degree of patience. Also holding it to a lamp helps finding the lines/ edges.

Great figures btw. They are very finely detailed! Like em alot.

Richard

 

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Borlando Fla home of the rat
Posted by TREYZX10R on Sunday, July 31, 2011 10:12 AM

Richard the canopy mask is looking great. Probably my least favorite task next to landing gear. I built the Zwilling a long time ago and remember how much fun it was to mask 2 sets of canopy panes(pains)!

Deafpanzer I like the first scheme as well,looking forward to seeing that painted.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, July 31, 2011 10:29 AM

Richard, nice tip about holding the canopy to a lamp, never thought of that one before. And theres me been straining to see where to cut Bang Head And ye, a new blade is a deffo. And though i do like the Eduard masks, if i can find a way to avoid spending 3 or 4 pound on masks for each kit, all the better.

If the side skirts are PE, that shouldn't be to hard to replicate damage, but if they are plastic, different issue. But i will third that on the scheme deaf, go with the first one. I have seen photos of that scheme on a StuG but don't recall seeing it modelled.

Trey, which Zwilling kit was that, i am assuming the Italeri one seeing as you said it was a while ago.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by kermit on Sunday, July 31, 2011 2:15 PM

Doen't dragon make a zwilling as well? Must be a huge model, even in 1/72 scale...

Well,... My own revell one is starting to look more and more germanSmile Decided to leave off the glass nose untill im done with all sanding in order not to fog up the inside... 

Only have to sand inbetween the knob thinghies on the underside fuselage... Still trying to figure out how to do it without damaging stuff. Probably end up folding sandpaper into sticks and take my time.

Richard

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, July 31, 2011 2:22 PM

No, Richard, i don't think Dragon ever did one, unless i missed it.. I originally built the Italeri kit, but afraid that was damaged beyond repair. So recently i got the new hasegawa one, and ye, it is a fair size.

Coming together nicely. I normally find i damge those little bit undneath and end up haveing to replace them with a thin bit of wire.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Monday, August 1, 2011 12:56 PM

Andy, go with that first scheme. It's refreshingly different. 

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Monday, August 1, 2011 1:09 PM

Eric, Bish, Richard and Trey- MANY THANKS for taking your time... I am glad you agree with the first scheme. 

Update on my panzer... did pre-shading job and painted the rubber on the wheels.  I hope to airbrush heavily thinned base coat of Dunky tonight. 

Hope to post another update tonight... thanks for looking!

Andy

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: USA California
Posted by vetteman42 on Monday, August 1, 2011 10:04 PM

Kermit wow but you are a factory my friend and do quality work too boot sweet lookin so far.

Deafpanzer yup the first one has my vote, a bit late as it may be. I am liking your build a lot so far

Randy So many to build.......So little time

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Monday, August 1, 2011 10:49 PM

Vetteman- Thanks for dropping by... never too late as it looks like its unanimous for the first camo scheme which I really liked too. 

Guys- Another update on my Panzer IV... airbrushed heavily thinned base coat of Dunky using Bill's formula 50/50 MM Dunky and MM Light Grey.  Sorry I had to use my ol' faithful Blackberry camera to take pictures... hope you can see the pre-shades. 

Circle templates are one of my best friends... it made wheels painting a pleasant experience.  All rear part of wheels were painted using Dunky I figured they didn't paint camo on the rear. 

I am looking forward to paint the camo scheme tomorrow night if I am not too tired.

If you can look at the drawing again, it looks like they did not apply alot of camo on the hull and turret behind the skirts, don't you agree? 

I'd appreciate to hear your opinion... again, thanks for looking! Beer

Andy

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Tuesday, August 2, 2011 2:27 AM

From the drawing, I'd say you're correct about the camo behind the schurzen. I'm pretty sure they would include it on those areas, but admit that instructions rarely lead on about it. Perhaps at that late stage in the war, they skipped it. Huh?

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: San Francisco Bay Area
Posted by bufflehead on Thursday, August 4, 2011 11:39 AM

Hey everyone!  I'm back from the Dead!!  Hehe, actually I completed the move and then had to finish a Hetzer for tigerman's Panzerjager GB.  I've pulled the RPM T-26T from the closet, repaired a couple of broken parts (compliments of moving) and got restarted on the painting/weathering.  I should be posting something in a day or two.

BTW, everyone seems to be doing a great job!  Andy, your Pz.IV is looking fantastic!  Luv the zimmerit and preshading!

Ernest

Last Armor Build - 1/35 Dragon M-26A1, 1/35 Emhar Mk.IV Female

     

Last Aircraft Builds - Hobby Boss 1/72 F4F Wildcat & FW-190A8

     

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Carmel, IN
Posted by deafpanzer on Thursday, August 4, 2011 12:48 PM

Ernest- Happy to have you back here.  Moving isn't never easy... I have moved four times across the country in ten years because of my old job with a corporation which I no longer work for.  Glad you liked my work... more to come!

Eric & guys- Bad news!  I have to drop my top choice of camo scheme... I posted my WIP in Armor forum and Manny shared with us that it was late war scheme.  So I had to check with my reference book and sure enough he was correct.  What's worse... it wasn't used in the Eastern Front at all.  I should have done my homework carefully... Bang Head

So now I am back at the drawing board, I think I will go for my second top camo scheme.  However I found few cool camo schemes at this great link a guy sent me... decisions, decisions, decisions! 

http://panzerivtheworkhorse.devhub.com/camo/ 

I will let keep y'all posted...

Andy

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