B-36 Peacemaker Group Build

This sounds like a sensible plan. You will need to replace the upper half of the fuselage on the master, but I think it's a true cylinder so it should not be too difficult. It really needs the spar too, which would be difficult to cut a slot for in your resin part, so plan on that.

The intakes are wrong, but filing them open makes them look better, a "by eye" project.

There's an RB-36H at Castle. Let's make plans to go over there and see her, along with the Vulcan. I thought they had a C-124, but I don't see it on the website.

Sounds like a fun trip, Bill.  I have photos of the inside of the Castle B-36. Panels were pretty bare at that time in the cockpit though.

I don't remember if there is a C-124 at Castle either, but there is one at Travis.

jeaton01

Looking a Monogram kit over, all my props are fine. 

I'm noodling on fixing the wing/fuselage join by lowering the wing some.  I have a number of the kits and one is going to donate wings for the XC-99 so I can afford to goof up.  I think I will put the fuselage together with white glue and then cut along the wing to fuselage intersection lines which are very definite.  After that I will join the wings to the root segments and jig the wing up true and fit that assembly back to the fuselage, trimming the bottom of the root on the fuselage until the wing is lowered to the proper level.  After that I may make a resin mold of the new center where the wing joins so I can use that on other builds.  The new part would be an insert for the upper fuselage out of resin that replaces the removed area between some of the panel lines so it is easier to fit.

My hat is off to you if you accomplish that. As for me, I`m going to just add the walkway stripes and help create the optical allusion of the the proper wing to fuselage joint..

For those unfamilar with the current 1/72 wing issue... here it is in picture form:

First a real B-36 Wing Joint

Notice how the wings barely touch at the top of the fuseage

Here is the actual model I am using to build SN 49-2677, B36F-1-CF

Hope everyone is having a good holiday break. I thought I would have time to do some work this week, and that has turned into nothing more than wishful thinking.

Some of my YB-36 parts from Click2detail.com have arrived, and thought I would share them.  Here is the 110" landing gear being modeled by SN 49-2677, B36F-1-CF  I will be using later for the B-36/B-58 combo build. With this one you can see the work done to modify the bombay to represent the bomber version.

The 110" wheel:

An underside view which also shows the bombay work for the SN 49-2677, B36F-1-CF build. Notice also the outer cover to the new wheel wells that will be installled on the actual YB-36 build

Some side views:

I do have a problem with the kit I will be using for the first build of a stock build RB-36. When putting the fuselage together, the cockpit area seems a little warped from spending 20+ years in tight fitting box at the wrong angle. When you put it together, you get a gap in the forward part which can be seen here:

The model will conform to the propper fitting when enough pressure is applied to the fuselage. My best idea so far is when it comes time to glue the fuselage together is to use a high strength glue such as super glue and instead of tape to hold the fuselage pieces together until they dry is some wire tie cables.

Any ideas on what to do here?

Also, when building the 1/72 put some counter weight/ballast in the forward fuselage such as some metal washers in the lower radome because model or real thing, when this happens it isnt pretty.

lajntx

Also, when building the 1/72 put some counter weight/ballast in the forward fuselage such as some metal washers in the lower radome because model or real thing, when this happens it isnt pretty.

Pardon me for snooping; I built one of these last year, and my curiosity was peaked at how folks were doing. I wanted to comment on the balancing issue; I ended up using a heavy long-shank padlock white glued between the bomb bay and cockpit area. Even with that and a lot of lead shot, the center of gravity is still only just in front of the rear wheels. I tacked on the wings and elevators while putting the weight in because they will move the COG back past the rear wheels if you don't factor those items in. Fortunately the kit gear handles the weight well, no bow legs as of yet!

Glenn

Hi Glen,

Thank you for you input on the balancing issue. I`m hoping when it comes time to get back to work on my B-36/B-58 combo build that simply hanging the B-58 fuselage to the bomb bay of the 36 that the weight of the 58 balances the thing out. With that build as you can see in the photos above of the B-36 I will be using that is demonstrating the 110" main gear that will go on the YB-36 that I have cut out the long bombay true to the bomber and removed the FWD Radome as it was true to the 36 used in this build. It`s going to make for an interesting counter weight issue if it doesnt because there wont be very much room in the forward to add any weight

Also, FYI....

For those concerned about  a weight issue on a 1/72 build, or for those that would like a more realistic look, Scale Aircraft Conversions of Dallas, TX offers the landing gear in white metal

http://scaleaircraftconversions.com/moreinfo.cfm?KIT=140

They do ask that you first try to purchase through your local hobby shop in order to support you local shops. However, they will sell direct to the public if your local shop wont order it, or you dont have a local hobby shop. Also, Texas residents will pay all applicable sales taxes. For those that travel to the DFW area, they will allow a pick up.

I've started on my B-36, and the first step is done, cutting the wing roots loose from the fuselage.  I'm going to build up the wings next.  Starting on that I can see that as Bill said the engine cooling inlets need some help.  Still thinking about how but those center parts are just too blunt and the top part of the scoop could use some milliput to make it look more like a duct.  Pictures soon.

Here is a picture of the separated wing roots and fuselage.  I used a dental tool to scribe along the wing/fuselage intersection, then after the scribe line was almost all the way through I sawed through the remainder with a small saw made by Exacto that fits in a #11 holder.  It took about a half hour to do it.

You killed it!  

just kidding

One question... How are you going to make that visibile wing spar inside bomb bay still stay in the right place when you lower the wings? Or are you going to do a closed bomb bay build?

If you mean the wing fuel tank that joins the wings, it will come down with the wings.  I may have to trim the top of the fuselage truss some, but the wing only needs to be lowered about 1/16" so that shouldn't be a big problem.  But, I won't know that until I get there.

Score another "cheap" one for me!

The "RB-36H Peacemaker" with a BIN listing on ebay strikes again!!!!!

1997 Kit, dont know yet if it is the `97 Big Box or the `97 Small Box

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200697770248?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648

This one was for a BIN price of $28 w/ a reasonable shipping price of $14.50

$28 is a nice fair price for the consumer, but listing it better would have probably brought in at least another $10 ( if not more ) if labled properly. Thus far I have purchased ( 2 ) 2008 kits - one for $20 + ship ( Yes!- $20 ) and the other for $25 + ship, now this one for $28 + ship because the auction is labled RB-36H Peacemaker vs the traditional B-36 Peacemaker title which shows up on more searches.

jeaton01

If you mean the wing fuel tank that joins the wings, it will come down with the wings.  I may have to trim the top of the fuselage truss some, but the wing only needs to be lowered about 1/16" so that shouldn't be a big problem.  But, I won't know that until I get there.

True, or you could just do a bomb bay door closed build. But if you do  a door open build, wouldnt that also mean you have to adjust your K-Truss`s and bomb racks too?

Another question: How are you going to rebuild the upper wing detail that drapes over the fuselage and barely touchs the wing on the other side?

lajntx, fantastic information there at the beginning.  I plan to enter this with the 08 release, after a couple of other GB's are completed.  It has scared me sitting there in the stash but my 6yr old keeps on me about building it and hanging it from his ceiling!  I probably won't get too carried away with accurate markings (I understand the 02 Revell kit has it right not the 08?) so see you soon.

Hi again Reasoned,

No kit 1980, 1989, 1991, 1997, 2002, 2008 has the plane 100% correct as they all use the same master mold. The `02 Revell-Germany is a superior kit because it already has the walkway stripes and common markings on the decal sheet and saves you from having to buy the Warbirds set. Another reason it is superior is because on that decal set it always includes many of the generic markings not found on the stock or warbirds set such as emergency exits, serial plates, water insertions, drain markers, etc. Also, they have the diamonds one can add on for the reciprocating engine air plug Indicators.

Revell could print that, and sell it as a stand alone for $25-$30 and sell it all day long if they wanted.

The model itself is incorrect  in the wing placement and lack of the forward bombay that carried standard munitions on the RB-36`s

 The 2008 kit also has another fatal flaw....

As you can see the USAF & U.S. AIR FORCE  and the UNITES STATES AIR FORCE small script decals are insignia blue and not black which is correct the correct color for the B-36. I guess someone in the art department must have confused it with the B-52 which had those in insignia blue.

Hi everyone,

I came across this build while doing an online search the other day. There are a few things I would have done differently to avoid a couple of inacuracies, but it`s still one h3ll of a A+++ build. Especially how the flight deck was detailed and given a "weathered look". When it comes time to paint my green house canopies, I think I`m going to use this method as it`s perhaps the best looking "painted" job Ive seen to date. Also the trick on giving the landing gear "an oil bath " gave it fantastic results

http://www.network54.com/Forum/47751/message/1324147713/Monogram+B-36+Peacemaker+1-72+Scale

Here is my "supply closet"

9 -  B-36 Kits : 1980-2, 1991-1, 1997-3, 2002-1, 2008-2

 1- B-35, 1-B-58, and 1-B-25 all in 1/72

No room for that proverbial well intentioned tennis racket or bowling ball. LOL

I’m still in the game although I have made no progress on the build as of yet.  Work and homework have taken precedence, but that ends next weekend after I take my final test and submit my final paper.  What I have done though is order some Alclad.  This will be my first kit and the first time I will be using Alclad. 

That`s fine deattilio, This is a come as you are-- when you can GB. I suspect that most of us whom are building the 1/72`s will be spending months working on ours. I keep planning on returning to my RB-36 build by actually taking it out of the box for the first time, but work/life always seems to think my day off is the time to "act up". 

Ahh, the walkway strips , now that is not something I look forward to trying to replicate.

Hi Reasoned.

It`s your lucky day!... Well sort of.

Spruce Brothers is having a SALE!

http://store.spruebrothers.com/categories.aspx?Keyword=B-36

Both the walkway stripes AND B-36 Conversion sets by Warbirds is on sale for $14.99 + 3.50 SH

http://store.spruebrothers.com/172-warbird-decals---b-36-peacemaker-common-stencils--insignias-72003-p28041.aspx

Have a few other B-36 things on sale too.

Also, the owner of Warbirds is known to offer the walkway stripes on ebay for $14.99+ shipping too

Today I finally got a whole "half a day" off from work & life.

Unfortunalty the dog and errands took most of that up. Recently I won a late 1960`s vintage 1/72 Enola Gay kit on ebay. Unfortunately upon arrival and close inspection - the decals are most likely trashed due to age as most of them have cracks in them big enough to see the white paper underneath. I`ll just have to keep an eye open on a replacement sheet. My intentions are to also aquire a few known historical planes in 1/72 scale so when someone asks me again: " Just how big was the 36? " I`ll have those for a refernce. Also, a month or so ago I picked up an early 1970`s vintage unbuilt  B-25C kit at a yard sale for $2. I found a B-25 decal sheet on ebay that allowed it to to be built as Jimmy Doolittle`s bomber ( I`ll still have to do some backdating to a B-25B ).

Here is some comparisons in size. They are quite dramatic even in just 1/72 scale. The first two pictures have the B-25 on the left, B-36 center, and B-29 on the right:

The next two shows the difference in size of the Bomb Bays, notice how the B-36`s ( bomber version )  bomb bay can quite easily hold the B-25

Nice comparison there.  And the B-25 fits without the aft bomb bay even open!

I've been working away and taking pictures as I go on my B-36, I will post some before long.

jeaton01

Nice comparison there.  And the B-25 fits without the aft bomb bay even open!

I've been working away and taking pictures as I go on my B-36, I will post some before long.

 

Hi John,

No, that is all 4 bombays cut open changing the model from an RB-36 configuration to a full fledged Bomber. When done that build will resemble this... go to 1:10 to see the snap action doors.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePwEPVgZpEA&feature=related

The RB used what would have been bomb bay # 1 for the camera equipment, and #4 for the ECM Equipment. ( where the 3 radomes go ) and why the model only has #2 & #3 bomb bays. Since the stock bombay doors cover 2 bays, all you have to is get another set of doors & cut open the remaining bays using a cut away piece to reconstruct the divider between the fore & aft bays. However that also means you will have to replicated the K-trusses, bomb racks, and full lenght of the trolly tunnel.

Later when the RB wings were disolved when the U-2`s & RB-52`s began to take over spying and intellegence flights, the RB`s began to carry standard & atomic ordance with the ecm room coverted to bomb bay and the 3 rear ecm radomes moved further aft in the lower fuselage.

Here are a couple of pictures showing where I am now.  I have the wing center stuck to the fuel tank/spar part, after aligning it with the wings installed over an enlargement of the plans to 1/72.  I am able to work it back in to the fuselage with just a little prying, and I have the fuselage cut out sanded to get the wing section dropped down where it needs to go.  I guess next I will install all the fuselage internals so I can join the fuselage before I final fit the wing.

lajntx

Hi Reasoned.

 

It`s your lucky day!... Well sort of.

Spruce Brothers is having a SALE!

http://store.spruebrothers.com/categories.aspx?Keyword=B-36

Both the walkway stripes AND B-36 Conversion sets by Warbirds is on sale for $14.99 + 3.50 SH

Wow la, just got thisreply thanks.  So if I hit the link it comes up with decals set #72002 does this include the walkway-strips?

>>Wow la, just got thisreply thanks.  So if I hit the link it comes up with decals set #72002 does this include the walkway-strips?<<

No, sheet #72002 allows you to build a different plane if you would prefer to do something besides the one that comes with the stock decal sheet. This is what #72002 looks like:

The walkway stripes & common markings is sheet # 72003

Here  is the one you were wanting. Their stock has gone down from 6 to 2, so you might want too hurry.

http://store.spruebrothers.com/172-warbird-decals---b-36-peacemaker-common-stencils--insignias-72003-p28041.aspx

 Ive bought a few sheets directly from Steven @ Warbirds for the $14.99 price & $3.50 shipping. I`m thinking about asking him if he can extend that price for either sheet to the ones with this GB building in 1/72. For now, lets patronise sprucebrothers.... who knows, maybe they`ll stay at that price point if we keep them busy enough.

Here is a build in which both sheets were used to create BM-028 which was a red Arctic wing tip B-36B

http://modelingmadness.com/reviews/korean/kolb36.htm

jeaton01

Here are a couple of pictures showing where I am now. 

Hi John,

One question, you cut the outer edges of the wing spar off. Were the Nacelle`s for engines #2 & #5 in the way when you lowered the wing?

Also, will you be re-inforcing the spar with a metal or wood dowell rod?

I had to relieve the fuel tank/spar to clear the inlet trunking I have put in the wings.  I didn't like the open look the kit has, the real thing looks sculptured and without something behind the leading edge it didn't look right to me.

I think it will be fine, the spar in the kit ties the wing together pretty well.

Here is a picture of the wing ducting.  It is Milliput and plasticard.