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B-36 Peacemaker Group Build

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  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Ontario, Canada
Posted by Bockscar on Friday, May 22, 2015 10:15 PM

Had a funny feeling about that......but it was worth it, a fine effort!

I've still got 3 B-36's left......2 in 1/72

Best of luck with your move.

I've recently separated and I've been moving,

the 300+ kits shoe horned into a little apartment....

my memory fading.....kits i don't remember buying....

I'm lucky i can still remember my GB exists these days Propeller

Dom

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Teutonic222 on Friday, May 22, 2015 3:41 PM

Thanks Dom. Frankly, the various NMFs were more of a pain in the patootie than I had hoped for. Tough to mask metallics without messing up the finish. I'll probably try Alclad on a future model that is smaller and I can screw up on.

We're moving soon, so once we get there and I get this plane hung up I can add all the little details like pitot tubes, ECM antennas, extended landing gear lights, etc.

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Ontario, Canada
Posted by Bockscar on Thursday, May 21, 2015 11:40 PM

Teutonic;

Looking grrrrreat!!!

Really appreciate that aluminum/magnesium contrast you've captured!YesToast

Dom

  • Member since
    February 2014
  • From: Cincinnati, OH
Posted by Valkyrie on Thursday, May 21, 2015 2:34 PM

Thanks, Teutonic!  Frankly I was just going to try to glue them back together, but the pin makes total sense.  If I need to, and I probably will, I'll follow your advice and instructions.

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Teutonic222 on Thursday, May 21, 2015 1:23 PM

Hello Al:

I don't have any props to sell, but I had one prop broken in my kit. If you need to reattach your broken blades I recommend pinning them by drilling a small, but slightly oversized hole in the hub and the blade. Then insert an 18-gauge or 22-gauge picture frame wire into the hole (available at just about any hardware store). I then use a liberal amount of glue to fill the oversized hole and reattached the blade. Before glueing you probably want to examine the blade-to-hub interface to make the alignment is accurate. You may also want to draw a line across the joint so you don't have to re-hunt for it once you apply glue. The oversized hole allows for some slop when you glue the blade to the hub to ensure the joints match perfectly, and it allows CA glue to fill the pin-to-hole void and bleed out into the joint.

Super glue will hold the blade nicely without a pin, but it is more subject to snapping back off with a bump. The glued pin really helps solidify the joint and I haven't ever been able to detect a joint in my B-36 or prior broken prop models.

Hope this helps if you need to go this route.

  • Member since
    February 2014
  • From: Cincinnati, OH
Posted by Valkyrie on Wednesday, May 20, 2015 11:27 PM

I recently bought a Monogram B-36 in 1/72 scale and it arrived in today's mail.  It's brand new. still wrapped in the original plastic.  But, unfortunately at least three of the propellers each have a blade broken off.  I'm pretty sure on such large props I can fix them, but would rather buy replacements if I could find a source.  I was thinking that someone in the Group Build might know of a source.  I would appreciate any assistance, guidance or suggestions.

Thank you,

         Al

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by rstigney on Sunday, March 8, 2015 8:29 PM

Hi Reasoned,

Tuet has actually inspired me to try my "skills" (or more accurately) complete absence of skills from getting in my way at attempting to build another B-36 model. This time I plan on adding motors to the props, interior lighting, running lights, landing lights, etc., and perhaps I can do it somewhat better this time around now that I know where all the parts should go. I would have liked to add the aftermarket 20mm gun turrets but probably won't because of their price. I sure won't make any attempt at the super detailing that Tuet did as I could never do that no matter how hard I tried.

To ensure that I would get my new project started, I have already purchased the motors, LEDs, batteries and another B-36 kit to assemble, and most important, have also sold my completed model on eBay. And WOW, does it ever take a big box to ship a built 1/72 B-36 model.

Roger      

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by rstigney on Saturday, March 7, 2015 10:04 PM

Hi Andrew,

A couple of pictures of the YB-60 cockpit are shown on page 190 of the Cold War Peacemaker book. If you can provide me with your US mail address I can copy them and send them to you.

Roger

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Riverton, Wyoming
Posted by Andrew Magoo on Saturday, March 7, 2015 3:01 PM

Howdy Teutonic,

Thanks, I will wait like a .little kid at Christmas. your efforts are appreciated! Magoo

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Teutonic222 on Friday, March 6, 2015 9:25 PM

Hello Magoo,

I don't have an answer for you yet, but I recently discovered that a guy I know was one of the contributing researchers and writers for "Convair B-36: A Comprehensive History of America's 'Big Stick' " the 400-page monster by Meyers Jacobson. Had no idea of that part of his background until the words B-36 came up in conversation. I reached out to him to find out if he has any info. If I get anything I'll post it here.

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Riverton, Wyoming
Posted by Andrew Magoo on Tuesday, March 3, 2015 7:20 AM

Howdy Everybody,

    It's been nice reviewing everyone's work, way to go guys! I have a question that maybe some one can answer. Does anyone have or know where I can find or be sent pictures/drawings of the YB-36G/YB-60 cockpit. It's no doubt similar to a B-36 but different due to no longer having 6 turning but just 8 burning.

Andrew Magoo

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: Bent River, IA
Posted by Reasoned on Friday, February 20, 2015 10:02 PM

Looks great Teut, from what I can see, the walkway strips and NMF variations really are nice.  Yeah, this is a model that is a right of passage.....and I never want to build another one......EVER. Wink

Science is the pursiut of knowledge, faith is the pursuit of wisdom.  Peace be with you.

On the Tarmac: 1/48 Revell P-38

In the Hanger: A bunch of kits

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Teutonic222 on Thursday, February 19, 2015 1:47 PM

I hear you John. There were quite a few times when my wife was wondering why in the world I was building this thing (mostly after each time she heard me moaning about another paint strip and repaint or blemish or who knows what). She thought it was supposed to be stress relieving and pleasurable. Well, it was most of the time. It was this in between times where I felt like taking a shotgun to it.

End result: I'm mostly pleased. And...I'll never do an NMF aircraft again. Good news is that Duplicolor's Chrome actually works really well for natural aluminum if laid on properly. It's inexpensive, but don't mask over it even with a coat of Future or using Post-It Notes.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Wednesday, February 18, 2015 10:30 PM

It looks nice!  I need to get back to painting mine.  It's just a morbid fear of failure that holds me back, and a workshop that is dusty from sanding too much balsa wood.

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Teutonic222 on Wednesday, February 18, 2015 9:20 PM
I'm nearing the end of the build. Everything is painted. Photos below. I installed the formation and navigation lights, temp probes (2 in the top canopy, 1 in the nose canopy), and added static wicks after the photos. We may be moving, so I'm not installing the landing gear, ECM antennas, pitot tubes, antenna wires, props and jet pods yet. I don't want anything damaged. It isn't perfect, primarily due to the natural metal finish areas, but it's as good as it's going to get. I love the model, but egads what a pain the a** to build and paint.
  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Teutonic222 on Thursday, January 22, 2015 8:11 PM

Yeah. Mine are red. But seeing the call out in Squadron got me examining every photo I could find. Unfortunately, virtually all of them do not show the pods close up or they're in the shadows or they're the Pima or Air Force Museum aircraft which have been painted (and obviously unused). I have this nagging feeling that the a** end of the pods should be either Mg or Al or Stainless Steel, but I can't find enough data on the various alloys at the time to determine which would offer the appropriate temperature resistance, if that is even an issue. Bottom line: I just want to know if the whole pod, minus the painted inlets, should be one color of silver or multiple shades of silver.

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: Bent River, IA
Posted by Reasoned on Thursday, January 22, 2015 6:32 PM

Not sure, the subject I did had the fore part of the pod painted yellow.

Science is the pursiut of knowledge, faith is the pursuit of wisdom.  Peace be with you.

On the Tarmac: 1/48 Revell P-38

In the Hanger: A bunch of kits

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Teutonic222 on Thursday, January 22, 2015 2:56 PM

The Squadron publication states the jet pods were made of a combination of magnesium and aluminum. Does anyone know what areas were Mg and Al (or stainless steel)?

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: Bent River, IA
Posted by Reasoned on Wednesday, January 21, 2015 1:42 PM

Looking good Teut......(man I don't miss working on that) Smile

Science is the pursiut of knowledge, faith is the pursuit of wisdom.  Peace be with you.

On the Tarmac: 1/48 Revell P-38

In the Hanger: A bunch of kits

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Teutonic222 on Tuesday, January 20, 2015 9:15 PM
I've started painting. Woohoo! I'm using Tamiya Bare-Metal Silver for the magnesium and Duplicolor Chrome for the aluminum. I'll be musing Testors Magnesium Metalizer for the non-skid walkways. The trick (at least for me) was learning how to spray the Duplicolor without getting orange peel. I painted the chrome tonight and now need to let it sit for a few days to cure. It's pretty sensitive to the touch right now, but definitely has a real metallic look to it. I haven't obviously painted the white area above the cockpit; hence the reason you don't see aluminum there. I also have a spot on both horizontal stabilizers to add some aluminum, but they were so thin it was going to be easier to do the stabs in stages. That, plus too minor touch-up resprays where fat fingertips accidently touched the chrome.
  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Teutonic222 on Wednesday, January 14, 2015 10:05 AM

Thanks John. I've got the Squadron book and somehow forgot to recheck it for the magnesium/aluminum drawing. Thanks for the picture (and the reminder). The info on the turret doors was very helpful.

To all:

I've been told that page 65 in Magnesium Overcast identifies the location of the fuel filler ports for the auxiliary fuel tanks in B-36Js. It is one of the only two B-36 books I don't have. Does the book identify the fill port locations?

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Monday, January 5, 2015 9:02 PM

Here is what I am using for reference.  I think the doors were always magnesium.

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Teutonic222 on Monday, January 5, 2015 8:11 PM

Hey Guys,

I'm running into a couple of challenges regarding what to paint where.

1. I am modeling a Featherweight, but from all accounts it appears they left the turret gun doors in place. Even if they were replaced with just metal panels, I'm leaving my model alone with the doors as is. The big question is: were the doors aluminum or magnesium?

2. What portions of the vertical stabilizer were aluminum and magnesium? The Warbird 72 003 decal sheet (plan view, not side view), shows the leading and top edge of the tail is "Metallic Aluminum" (which would actually be the non-skid color per their legend), but they show it as "Metallic Silver" (actually aluminum) in the side views. However, the plan views of the Warbird 72 032 decal sheet shows a narrow panel on the tail in an "L" shape adjacent to the rudder (relative to the nose of the plane facing to the left). In contrast, photos seem to show a darker color in the panels that are central to the tail (i.e. not the panels at the leading edge or the panels adjacent to the rudder). I'm leaning towards an all aluminum tail except for the central panels which were magnesium.

Can anyone confirm?

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Teutonic222 on Tuesday, December 30, 2014 12:39 PM

I had a lot of free time this holiday to work on the model. Canopies are masked and painted. Shot everything with primer. I felt the primer was taking too much of the panel detail away, so I lost my mind and decided to rescribe everything. Egads, there are a lot of panels! About 95% are turning out perfectly. The rest are either requiring refilling and rescribing or I'm living with some of the not-so-noticeable mistakes. The rescribing is really bringing out the fantastic details and I hope they will turn out well once the paint is one.

I wish everyone a very Happy New Year.

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Teutonic222 on Monday, December 15, 2014 3:46 PM
Hi All, I finally attached wings and stabs and this model is starting to look like an actual airplane. Luckily, I didn't need too much putty; although there have been a lot of intermediary re-puttying and re-sanding. The fuselage went together pretty well. I used a combination of brush on plastic cement and CA glue. The plastic cement is the best solution, but I don't like holding the fuselage halves together with tape until it dries because the glue that seeps out runs down the tape via capillary action and spoils the plastic finish. Thus, I spread plastic cement along a seam for a ways, then apply some drops of CA at either end of the cement line to act as the clamp to hold the fuselage together. I squeeze the fuselage and wing halves intermittently to allow some of the melted plastic to ooze out. When dry, a seam trimmer works great to trim the melted overflow, which in turn does a great job in filling small gaps (less putty). Doing this technique a few inches at a time allows me to get a pretty good alignment on part halves. The challenge was the wing-to-fuselage joint. My port wing joint on top was quite tight. I only needed putty to blend the contours a little better. The starboard side top joint had a much larger gap. It was almost as if either the wing or the fuselage was a little bit concave where they joined along the mating surface. More putty required there. The bottom gaps on both wings were pretty good. I didn't even want to attempt puttying and sanding because of the tight space, so I squeezed in CA gel and wiped off the excess immediately. That added some strength and helped fill the gap a bit. Since the bottom joint is practically a 90 degree joint and would look like a seam anyway, I think primer and painting will look fine. The bigger challenge was blending in the 3D printed bomb bay door plug and then scribing new bomb bay lines. The bomb bay plug works great, but I won't know how well it all looks until I hit it with a little primer (next step). The scribing was relatively straight forward, barring my slip ups (read: re-puttying and re-sanding above). Scribing across Green Stuff putty isn't the greatest, but I didn't know a better way to fill gaps and scribe until after I was done. I have a lot of tape all over the aircraft to plug holes. Since I drilled small holes for ECM antennas, radio masts, pitot tubes, vent ports, and canopy and blister holes, I had a lot to cover. Hopefully it kept the dust out. The next challenge is trying to figure out the best way to clean everything for the primer coat since I can no longer wash it in soap and water. I guess I'll have to use a compressed air can and a damp soapy rag.  photo WP_20141215_001_zps57831257.jpg  photo WP_20141215_004_zpsce10637f.jpg
  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Teutonic222 on Friday, November 14, 2014 3:22 PM

Whoops. I meant to say I added the horizontal stabs, not vertical stabs. I'm not building a P-38, so it only has one vertical stab. Maybe somebody would like to build a twin fuselage B-36 as a future project. :)

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Teutonic222 on Saturday, November 8, 2014 6:58 PM

Hello Roger,

Yeah, that Shrinkotron really works.

Good luck on the Bear bomber. It's one of my favorite aircraft designs. Crazy design, but still flying and supposed to until 2040 (like the B-52), I think.

I just glued the fuselage halves together and added the vertical stabs tonight. I've been superdetailing the main landing gear and bays so I can glue those too. Next step is filling, sanding, rescribing, and priming. That could take a while.

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by rstigney on Saturday, November 8, 2014 4:09 PM

Tuet,

No wonder I couldn't get mine painted at the 1/72 scale. Being new to modeling I just haven't learned the tricks of the trade. The RO position looks really great!

I just bought a Tupolev TU-95 (Bear) off of eBay and will have to try my new skills at building now that I am experienced (chuckle). As you probably know, it was the Russian counter to the B-36. I bought a 1/200 scale so it will be more challenging to paint the crew members. Maybe I will just have to send them on to you for your fine detailing skills.

How close are you to completion? Looking forward to seeing your final pics.

Roger  

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Teutonic222 on Friday, November 7, 2014 12:03 PM

Thanks Roger. I've found that starting with lifesize figures and then shrinking them in my Shrinkotron works better than trying to paint them in 1/72 scale. I hope you're okay with your position at the radio in the first photo.

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by rstigney on Thursday, November 6, 2014 9:12 PM

Tuet,

I just now saw your pics of the crew members with the 335th on their caps. It is unbelievable to me that you could actually paint all of the extremely small details on them that you did. But somehow you did, so congratulations on your EXCELLENT job. You sure deserve it.

Roger  

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