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The Official 1943 70th Anniversary Group Build

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  • Member since
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  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Saturday, January 12, 2013 6:07 PM

Thanks Nathan... alot of it is dry brushing, but there is some chipping too.

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

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Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
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  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Saturday, January 12, 2013 10:07 PM

Well no word from the host, but here's the beginnings of my Yak 1b from Accurate Miniatures. This is my first Yak although I've build a few AM kits back in the day. I gotta say i'm not a huge fan of the way the kit is designed to go together. The cockpit on the real thing is fairly spartan, made up of steel tubes and and sort of an open floor kind of like a hurricane. This makes the cockpit on the kit hard to build and paint. Both the seat and instrument panel get sandwiched in-between the two side walls, so everything must line up perfect in order to fit inside the fuselage. I'm adding a Pe set from Part(Poland manufacturer) and decals will be either from another Eduard limited edition kit or aftermarket, as the kit decal option is for a '44 bird. I added some lines and levers inside the cockpit just to make it look busy enough. The kit detail is amazing and fine for a kit tooled in '98, and fit so far of the fuselage parts is near perfect. Here's my start:

the kit side walls are made with rectangular tubing, which should be round, so I replaced some with 1mm brass rod. I didn't totally rebuild them because they have strategic tabs to ensure a positive fit with the floor, and I didn't want to screw this up. I added some wires and levers,some wheel from the pe set, then test fit.

This is the new PE panel and levers:

The top fuselage deck also got some work. I replaced the thick plastic cross bar with bent wire:

Then, the front of the nose got its 12.7mm gun from brass tube. There was just a hole.

The bottom of the floor is also the radiator, which got some pe grills:

Now the fuselage needs to be closed up to have the cockpit slide up from behind. I removed the tailwheel doors to be replaced with pe:

The inside of the exhaust openings had to be filled with plastic card to accept the exhausts later, which will be from Quickboost:

 

 

  • Member since
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  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Saturday, January 12, 2013 10:24 PM

Time to close up the fuselage. Fit is amazing, with some small rivets to try and not have to sand over:

the top deck is visible through the canopy, and is where the radio mounts. Instead of sanding the seam, i covered it with plastic  card, as I have to make a vertical bulkhead for the rear anyway:

Had to add a few rivets on a metal panel before adding the top deck:

Fitting the top deck:

Now the cockpit got a base color of A-14 Steel gray, or in this case a mix of Gunze neutral gray and sky, then the pe panel and side walls all came together, and luckily, played nice!

I think I'll give the pit a careful pinwash, then slide it into the fuselage opening, and see how many photo etch parts I can knock off

 

 

  • Member since
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  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Sunday, January 13, 2013 6:42 AM

YAKs looking good!

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, January 13, 2013 7:13 AM

Doug, Nathan, some great looking work on those builds.

Doug, is that a Ju 87B kit.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Sunday, January 13, 2013 7:36 AM

Yes sir... This one is a Ju87"B" model and when finished it will be joined with a Ju87 "G" model Its a bit hectic keeping 2 builds going at the same time, but I've had a bit of down time to begin the year (minor illness) and I'm trying to make the best of it.

Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
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  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, January 13, 2013 2:12 PM

Astonishingly good and detailed work, Nathan.  Nicely done.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Sunday, January 13, 2013 11:36 PM

Thanks for the comments guys. I gave the cockpit a burnt umber wash and tried not to disturb all the pe:

then I moved on to the undercarige, and added some ribs and wires to the gear well. The legs themselves got some brake lines and PE torque links:

Next will be fitting the wings to the fuselage, which I read is the most tricky part to this kit. A quick dry fit told me to get the putty and sprue ready....Yay...

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Monday, January 14, 2013 1:14 AM

Yaks and Stukas: they need something to defend or attack. So I submit a Zvezda 1/35 GAZ-MM 1943 for consideration. When done I'll bore all with some words about the impact of vehicles extending the reach of armies from the railhead (or harbor) but for now, let's say that trucks were very important in war for exactly the same way as they were/are in commerce. So: I bought this kit for $10 on a Dragon super-sale and I think it's a Japanese rebox from the 70s. Odd combination of nicely molded parts and nothing fitting correctly. The kit is perfect for a kind of medical experiment in weathering. (The truck was a Ford Model A and built into the 1950s in the USSR. It wasn't "state of the art" when it was first built.) Anyway, all of the weathering will be done with acrylics. (Mig Jimenez did a DVD about acrylic weathering that I think is the most informative of the bunch.) This isn't irrelevent because much of the truck was built of wood (1941-42) and more in metal (1943 and later). So we're going to give a Rooskie truck, the middle the world's greatest war, some pretty heavy weathering. I will be using the "Rustall" technique as well as more use of Com.Art.  The parts of the truck that were made of wood will hopefully show it. We'll see. It's only a truck/

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Monday, January 14, 2013 4:11 PM

Nic start on the engie E. I agree, weather the snot out of it...it'll look cool. Whats the rustall technique?

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Tuesday, January 15, 2013 9:45 PM

I managed to get the lower and upper wings on. The fit at the roots was good, no gaps, but the lower wing fit was off at the front and a little at he rear around the radiator. I'm trying to avoid putty like the plague here so I don't destroy all the nice little rivets and detail on this kit, so I'm sanding and shimming where I can.

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Tuesday, January 15, 2013 9:49 PM

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 1:27 AM

Looking good Nathan. I doubt I'll ever get a cockpit that pretty. Recreating detail is somewhere near the heart of modeling, but I just can't shake the idea that "nobody will ever see it." I think really good modelers have something inside them that insists on getting it right whether anyone knows about it or not. Course my back room is utter chaos and I don't care much about that either.

I've found a couple of alternatives to putty that allow handling small gaps without damaging detail. The best is either acrylic modeling paste or acrylic gel (you want thick, but nothing added like lava) - as the name indicates this is a kind of liquid plastic. Made by any of the artist paint companies and an $8 jar will last you and your progeny a life. Same stuff that dio meisters use to make water. (Those guys will go through that $8 jar really fast: course you can buy in bulk and some people do. Modeling paste, once dried can be carved - like plastic marble. Amazing what some of the Sci-Fi fans do with the junk.)  Put on a small amount and then wipe away the excess - when it dries (white or clear depending upon the type) the gap will be filled but the rivet or line still there. If it's gel it will dry clear and when it dries you still see the gap: of course a coat of paint covers it. Neat stuff. Problem is that it takes several hours to properly dry. You can also put talcum into Klear and make a paste out of it. (I wonder if something like baking powder might work.) You can clear away almost everything with a q-tip or finger nail and it'll dry pretty quick. Either technique is reversible because it lays into the plastic's surface and doesn't create it's own like putty or any modeling cement will do. Use something like Goo Gone for removal.

There's a new gizmo out there that Aaron Skinner recommended and I bought. Its from the UK and called Perfect Plastic Putty from a company called Deluxe Materials. (Widely available on eBay: I get it from my Brit shop.) It's a distant cousin to modeling paste. Has a texture like toothpaste. It does not attack plastic at all and dries quite quickly. It sands very smoothly, and like all the acrylic stuff you clean it with water. It's not as tough as the other things mentioned and you can remove it while sanding if you don't watch it. But I'm getting used to it and can see it replacing putty for any medium sized ugly. (I'll find out soon. My Rooskie truck has turned into a serious problem child.)

For larger problems I like Aves Apoxie Sculpt which is an acrylic apoxie: two parts, combine, shape, lay in. Unlike normal apoxie when this stuff dries it hasn't attacked anything underneath. I botched a Zimmerit job (my only one - swear it - no more Zim for moi) and slowly stripped an entire tank of Apoxie Sculpt in about an hour and didn't harm a panel line. The second try was still out of scale (I think all home made Zim is) but better. Like everything mentioned it is non-toxic and you can't smell a thing.

Better living through chemistry.

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 4:57 AM

Looking good Nathan! You've got a good eye for detail!

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 9:01 AM

Thanks for the comments guys. Eric, thanks for the gap filling tips. I usually turn to Mr. Surfacer or Mr. Dissolved putty for small seams or pinholes, then after about 15 min I wipe the excess off with Mr. Color thinner, which is safe on plastic, and this leaves me without having to sand. Sometimes it takes 2 coats. So far this is adequate, but I'll have a look into pastes and gels you mentioned. This kit is different as it just goes together so differently; 3 fuselage parts, different cockpit, different wing attachments. I'd like to do another as I'd be ready for the tricky areas. I have some Aeromaster decals coming so I'll be choosing a 1943 scheme shortly. As with all things VVS, I'll have to try and verify the schemes best I can. '43 was kind of a change-over year for VVS fighters as the colors were starting to go from the green/black to the two grays, so any '43 profile in green must be checked. Also Camo patterns started to become more standardized. So my heads been spinning trying to decifer Russian forums.

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 4:59 PM

OK this one is complete, This is an older Ju87 "B" model Stuka. I will be starting the Ju87 "G" model this weekend. So far so good (I think).

Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Guam
Posted by sub revolution on Saturday, January 19, 2013 3:48 AM

Ok, I have updated the front page, finally. Please check to make sure I didn't miss anybody!

Nukem- Welcome! I think you will find GB's are addicting.

Nathan- Good to see you on for another round. I can't say "nyet" to a Russian plane! Lots of good work on it so far.

Ebergerud- That will make a very interesting addition to our collection of military hardware here! I have a couple of Zvezda kits, one of them looks quite good but the other... looks pretty rough. On the subject of filling gaps, on my last build I experimented with using clear glue. I had used it to make small windows before, and it worked great to fill gaps!

Doug- That model looks very rough (in a good way!) Excellent work on that. I take it this is a junkyard bird? Are you making a diorama of sorts with it when you finish the other one?

Great job everyone!

Thanks, Budd

NEW SIG

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Saturday, January 19, 2013 7:09 AM

Sub... Yes yes and yes. I ran across some pictures of a staffle at Kursk and the struggle to maintain a combat effective force. Kinda changed coarse in mid thought. Will be starting the "G" version this weekend, and Thanks.

Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, January 19, 2013 9:07 AM

Doug, i must admit i did wounder where you were going with thsi build. But that looks amazing. I simply couldn't do that to any German aircraft, and to a Stuka would break my heart.

Looking forward to the G.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Saturday, January 19, 2013 9:21 AM

Sub, good to see ya. What are you building this time?

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Saturday, January 19, 2013 9:48 AM

Actually I think the truck is a very old Japanese model that Zvezda reboxed (the plastic doesn't have that soap feel that some Eastern European stuff does): but it's pretty bad. I'll share some woe stories soon. I did have a "gap shoot-out" with Golden Acrylic Gel and Perfect Plastic Putty on Thursday. The Gel is very good stuff if you've got time to let it set: it's white but dries clear and hard. So the gap still looks like it's there - a little paint and it isn't. If anything it's tougher than plastic so it takes to sanding well. (My one complaint of white glue as a filler is that it sands poorly - but I've never tried the window making variety and because it's a gadget I have two types.) Plastic Putty is neat stuff - because it's so benign you can work it with your finger nail and it dries very quickly. It sands very well - maybe a little too well. If you use coarse grit you can pull the stuff out (no harm done though) - with a light grain sanding stick you can get it very smooth. Stuff like this costs me way more than kits these days - of course I probably have a 75 kit stash. Nuts no doubt.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Saturday, January 19, 2013 10:09 AM

Bish... LOL I feel your pain my brother, But rest assured, It is being built with the utmost respect and reverance to the Luftwaffe and all her brave airmen. As the build progresses you will see this I think. I guess what I'm trying to convey was the desperation felt by the aircrews as they worked around the clock to try and keep their aircraft at the ready and in combat condition. As you know Kursk was the first failure of BlitzKrieg to accomplish its goal and the turning point for the German forces on the Eastern Front.

Take care my friend...

Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Saturday, January 19, 2013 10:47 AM

Very convincing derelict Stuka, Doug.  Nice capture of the "seen-better-days" look.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Guam
Posted by sub revolution on Saturday, January 19, 2013 5:03 PM

I like it, Doug. I like it a lot. I have thought about doing an Eastern Front scene like that with Soviet aircraft, but it will be a while for me. Bish I know where you are coming from. It will take some will power to do that to a Soviet plane, but as Doug said, it is a reflection of the hardships that they went through. Doug, I will update you as finished on the one Stuka, but I will save the photo for the finished diorama.

Nathan- I think the group voted for me doing a HE-111. Gotta finish up a couple other projects first, and decide on a scheme for it.

Thanks, Budd

NEW SIG

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, January 19, 2013 5:25 PM

I deffinatly know where you guys are coming from. And i think it takes a lot more skill to make a wreck look good than it does a working aircraft.

An He 111 deffinatly gets my vote.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Saturday, January 19, 2013 7:34 PM

Hmmm...only VVS and Luftwaffe subjects being represented so far...anything else?

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Saturday, January 19, 2013 7:46 PM

Do believe I completed an Avenger - flew for the USN. My truck is rooskie, but it won't fly. I'm going to be a little pressed for time between stays in St. Paul and Berkeley and I might do a quick M-3 Stuart and give it to the Aussies at Buna/Sandananda. Old and simple kit but it is the right variety and I think the decals are actually pretty close.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Saturday, January 19, 2013 8:27 PM

Checkmate...LOL The seen better days look! LOL,,, I like that! Thanks...

Doug

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: Oil City, PA
Posted by greentracker98 on Sunday, January 20, 2013 9:47 PM

Hi everyone,

yes they are addicting Nukem. ie I am adding monogram's 1/48 scale P-38, I am doing it for the Force of Nature GB, and My First Time GB and it works for the 1943 GB too this plane "Jeanne" was stationed at Kingscliffe, England in the 55 squadron, 20th fighter group from August 1943 until it was borrowed by someone with a higher rank and then he crashed it in a KIFA. this group came to be known as the Loco Group for it's prowess at killing enemy Locomotives/Trains.

It's almost ready for the paint shop

A.K.A. Ken                Making Modeling Great Again

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 9:35 PM

Okay, here's my Rooskie Model A pick-up done. Details:

1/35 Zvezda GAZ MM 1.5 Ton Truck - 1943 (Zvezda 3574)

Paints: Revell Aqua Color, Gunze Mr. Hobby, Vallejo Model Color

Weathering: Rustall System, Iwata Com.Art paints, Vallejo Acrylic Mediums

There are some earlier pics in this thread showing some of the build. In short, the kit was a pig that almost drove me crazy. Once pounded into submission (more or less) it did serve as an interesting experiment in weathering with all acrylic products (minus a cover layer of clear lacquer that was used to protect the base in the “hairspray” technique). Those wishing details can check a long build post I made in Armor “Zvezda Rooskie Truck with Acrylic Weathering.” Here I'd like to explain why I think this very humble offering belongs in a 1943 group build.

The GAZ MM 1.5 ton truck was a Model A produced under license in the USSR from the late 20s through the early 50s. (There were many variations on the basic theme.) The one pictured is described by Zvezda as the 1943 Model. Before Barbarossa the main factories producing this buggy were near Minsk and were some of the first to be evacuated east of the Urals. In the rush, the machinery required for options like doors, roofs and fenders were left behind. Hence for over a year Soviet Ice Road truckers were making do with a truck largely made of wood and with canvas doors/roofs. In 1943 the situation settled enough that the “new and improved” model here displayed came out. It retains a lot of wood, but it at least has doors and I'm pretty sure metal fenders. (Wonder if it had a heater?) If the kit doesn't look terribly precise, neither did the real ones judging from a number of photos I've seen. Not sure how an American Model A would look to modern eyes, but a wartime Soviet version was short on fit and finish. As the pics will show I did make an effort to dirty the thing up because I think that's one attribute virtually all AFVs in front line service had in common – even if only a few weeks old, they were all dirty. This was a utility vehicle and I doubt made for much off-road use, but as you can see, “off-road” was a relative term in the USSR.

So a humble breed no doubt. But also a small part of a very large revolution in military affairs. The reason World War II took the form that it did was largely because it was history's first war that saw the internal combustion engine in use by every combatant in numbers that still amaze.

In a sense the wars of the Mid-19th century which saw the vital employment of railroads and telegraphs, and were between nations that had the money to buy arms in staggering quantities, were the major break with the past. I think Julius Caesar would have understood Napoleon's battles – I don't think he would have really understood Lee's or Moltke's. Although advances abounded in all fields, the First World War was in many ways as close to the US Civil War as it was to World War II. Field radios and aircraft were giving commanders unprecedented means of looking “over the hill” and means to do something about it. But the log jam that limited operations in the First World War would have been immediately recognizable to Sherman: huge armies were chained to the rail head. The closer you could get to the rail head the better, but the farther you moved away from it (as during an offensive) the more your operations were put on a kind of timer: reach your objective with horses or watch the advance fizzle. (The First Battle of the Marne was the most dramatic example but the great offensives by both sides in 1918 illustrated that nothing had changed.) There were cars and trucks in WWI but in numbers so small that they were only useful for communications and shipment of very high value items. Once beyond the rail head, horses and mules supplied the armies in 1918 just as they had for Alexander the Great. And horses and mules ate huge amounts of fodder that supplying them was a huge headache. This explained why a breakthrough of twenty miles was great work in WWI.

Motorization was certainly at the top of every smart officer's wish list in the interwar period. Tanks of course had shown ominous potential. How one should use tanks was a matter of considerable dispute in this period but everybody wanted more trucks. Indeed, armor visionaries like Guderian (the most sensible of the bunch) or DeGaulle saw that motorizing much of the army was a requisite for AFVs to have any use at all. The Brits made blunders in large number in the 1930s. They also determined to field the first completely motorized army in history and did so with the BEF in 1939-40. Later the American Army expanded the theme. One reason the US Army in Europe was so dangerous was that it had no leg infantry – if you marched it was for tactical reasons. If you could ride the Army could advance 40 miles in a day. (Leg infantry did prove necessary in the Pacific because there were often no roads – at least not until US engineers built them.)

America had money and the Brits fielded a small army. Nations like Germany and the USSR which fielded huge land armies took their horses to war once again. However, with a difference. Both sides were able to support an elite portion of their land forces with mechanized supply as well as mechanized weapons. At every stage of the war in the East, scores of divisions fought a war almost identical to WWI. (It was Stalin's willingness to confront the trench warfare mentality that helped drive up casualties for both sides into the stratosphere. Heaven knows how many WWI style Soviet attacks were made simply to kill Germans. It did work in the long run.) If one looks at the Eastern Front the story there was largely the slipping ability of the Germans to support elite units (although the German armed forces increased in size through 1944, the Feldherr in the Ost never matched the numbers fielded in June 1941) and the growing ability of the Soviets to do so. It has been accurately pointed out that US Lend Lease played a huge role in mechanizing the “Guards” units when the “deuce and a half” started rolling in. (We also sent them thousands of locomotives to complete the circle.) But even humble utility vehicles like the GAZ MM were priceless. They were cheap and hence present in the tens of thousands. The man hours required to move items from one part of a factory complex to another was decreased hugely with trucks, as was keeping the trains loaded to the brim with supplies of all kinds. If the roads allowed it, even a simple and rugged buggy like the GAZ would help expand the army's reach beyond the rail head. Every job done by humble buggies allowed the blue-ticket transport vehicles to serve the Red Army's spear head.

And it was in 1943 when this fact became all too obvious. Soviet counter-offensives after Moscow and Stalingrad had both run out of steam because of logistic over-extension. (And Stalin's periodic bouts of stupidity.) When we think of 1943 we think of Kursk and for good reason. But the battles in the salient to the Soviets were a preliminary to the major action – a massive counter-attack launched both north and south of Kursk. This time the ever more skillful Soviet armies were able to sustain their advances in a way impossible a year before. In the humiliating retreat to the Dnieper the Germans were saved by the mud more than Soviet supply breakdown. In 1944 the spectacular victories over Army Group Center drove home the point more solidly.

And let's not forget that US Model As were doing the same thing in the Arsenal of Democracy – we just didn't need to take them to war. So when the Western allies got back into the war against Germany in 1943, they left their horses behind. (They did buy mules in Italy, but you can't foresee everything.)

The flip side of all of this is that if mechanization was central to economies and armies then oil became the object of war. It is no accident that both Germany and Japan were driven to desperate gambles to gain (among other things) a permanent access to oil supplies. Come to think about it, I rather doubt there would have been a war in Iraq if that area of the world was famous for growing carrots. And all to keep the GAZ MM and it's more famous cousins running.

Eric

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A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

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