Keepers of the Peace GB 2013-14

Guys, the Peacekeeper GB bage has been added to the front page.

stikpusher

I have tried blue for vision blocks and persicopes on AFVs a couple times. I always end up repainting them with clear green to better replicate that coke bottle glass look that I remember on all the tracks that I rode on. But this year has been a year of modeling firsts for me. My first UN, my first "what if?", and I am now bitten by both bugs to do more of the same genres in the future.

firsts for me too. started first 1/24 truck, sci-fi, artist oil washes and filters, some 1/72 vehicles, and hosting my first (2) group builds. and it's only 5 months into the year.

I have tried blue for vision blocks and persicopes on AFVs a couple times. I always end up repainting them with clear green to better replicate that coke bottle glass look that I remember on all the tracks that I rode on. But this year has been a year of modeling firsts for me. My first UN, my first "what if?", and I am now bitten by both bugs to do more of the same genres in the future.

stikpusher

The build subjects sure do look different in white rater thn green or tan. Not quite so "warlike". And yes, I did do a final topcoat of clear green on the periscop lenses.

my first UN vehicle was the TRUMPETER CANADIAN LAV-III which got me hooked on canadian warwheels, and i did the vision blocks in blue. just didn't like it as well as the green. and ,whhoo, got the missing parts from revell for my 1/24 UNIMOG THW 4x4.

The build subjects sure do look different in white rater thn green or tan. Not quite so "warlike". And yes, I did do a final topcoat of clear green on the periscop lenses.

That turned out really nice. These un GBs are fun as equipment looks different in weathered white. Did you repaint the vision blocks green?

Thank you sir. I thought that you might like the patch with the vehicle shot. I have an idea for a vignette of this somewhere down the line incorporating the patch. I am very glad to have partaken in this GB. It was kind of surreal for me at times as at some points I was using my music play (a Sony mini disc player) that I had there during my time in country, listening to the same music that I did there...

Stik: An excellent build!  The last pic with the patch seems fitting, so I've added it to the front page. So glad you got it finished.

I'm calling this one finished....I failed to notice that I'm out of MV lenses, so I have to order more. I also have to find a replacement shovel - it fell off the desk and got stepped on!

and here's one of the reference pics I've been using for the build The unit is 3 Trp, B Sqd, 3-4 Cavalry Regt when it was in Rwanda.

Thank you to all for participating!

After the Matt Coat dried and I made the antenna I did the final detail painting: Tamiya Clear Green on the periscopes, Tamiya Clear Red on the stop lamp lens, Humbrol Flat Black on the Cargo Hatch pull chain cover, .50 cal. ammo links, & Drivers Hatch seal ring, Humbrol Dark Green 34079 on the upper deck hatch rims, and Testors Steel dry brushing in a few appropriate high wear spots. Then a bit of Testors Clear Parts glue for lenses on the headlights & taillights. Finally I mixed up a batch of Humbrol Hemp & Matt Clear for a dusting on the suspension and airbrushed that on. Afterwards some Tamiya weathering soot in the exhast pipe, and then the antenna was glued in place and finito! I present my completed K-200 in Malay Army/UN service in Bosnia

Thanks for looking. Comments and critiques are welcome.

The stuff is easily missed at HL if youre not looking for it. I stumbled across it last visit accidentally. The local HL carries in in a two tier rack on the bottom shelf down the aisle from the Testors paint rack.

My next couple of updates will be in stages here.
Yesterday on my trip to Hobby Lobby I also picked up this wire for use in making the antenna


Now modern real FM vehicle antennas are tapered from a thick botten that screws on to the antenna base to a narrow tip. The long whips are also sectional, in two pieces. (yeah the commo sergeant in me is coming out here) To replicate that I stretched some tube styrene, and cut a couple lengths to fit over the wire core. Then I added some super glue which I would later sand flush once it was dry to give the appropriate taper. Here it is while the superglue is drying.

Not perfect, but it looks the part.

Before I started the antenna I applied a final coat of Humbrol Matt Clear. I love that stuff!!! Dead flat finish every time!

After that it was final detail painting and weathering...

Looks interesting, Stik.  I was at HL yesterday morning, but did not see this.....I did see Tamiya's weathering powders and Vallejo's weathering stuff.  However, I did pick up a can of Purple-Licious.

This is the stuff I used for the wash. The local Hobby Lobby started stocking them recently and this is my second use of the product. A pre make wash by Testors (or stain as it is labled), in this case, Gray, but it is really really dark in the bottle. They make both enamel and acrylic versions of the stuff, but since I prefer to work with enamels for my washes I am going with that here. Especially over my Acrylic base colors.

So here is the K-200 with the wash applied, but not yet cleaned up

and with the wash cleaned up, hatches popped open, and machine guns installed...

I will get it completd tomorrow. We have company coming over this evening and I still need to do the flat coat, final touch up painting and final weathering...

Thanks Pyr, I am looking forward to seeing it done as well! I am looking forward to your finished 113

Wayne, this is an outwardly different build for me as well. I am used to vehicles in warpaint. But this white stuff is growing on me. I would like to get a Scorpion one day for my Brit AFV collection, and build it up in Falklands War colors & markings. I am trying something new on the periscopes, as I usually just paint the clear green over the vehicle base color. But on the white here that would be too light. This blue still may be too light as well... we shall see. For the weapons I started off by base coating them in airbrushed Tamiya Flat Black. On the .50 I then gave a heavy drybrushed coat of Humbrol Gun Metal followed by a very light dry brushing of Testors Flat Steel in the high wear areas. On the 60s I dry brushed Testors Gun Metal (a darker and bluer shade compared to the Humbrol shade) on the barrel & receiver, followed by drybrushed Humbrol Gun Metal on the bipod legs and handguard vent. Next I drybrushed Humbrol Matt Aluminum on the high wear areas of the feed tray cover, and finally I hit all the rubber portions of the handguard, butt, and feed tray cover with Humbrol Satin Black. The photo does not really show it to good effect. I will see if I can take some better ones tomorrow.

cool. this looks really different.

i have a scorpion in my stash.

i still have not gotten my vision block colors the way i want them. usually i paint them silver and then clear green and then smoke to tone down the green. what did you paint the weapons. i have given up on gun metal. i now do metallic gray with medium black oil wash.

Stik: excellent work.....looking forward to seeing it completed.

I am done with today's work now. The finish line is just ahead.
Today's detail painting, based upon some photos that I came across:
Tow hooks in Dark Green 34079

headlights & driver's persicopes base painted. After the final top flat coat, I will add a coat of Tamiya Clear Green on the persicopes

right side troop compartment periscopes- same thing for them on the Clear Green top coat

left side troop compartment periscopes and spare track shoe attachment bolts

TC & drivers hatch periscopes

troop compartment rear periscopes

right side tail lights. After the flat coat, I will paint the lenses with Smoke/Neutral

left side tail light assembly- lower light will get Smoke lens, top will get Clear Red.

and then it was time for the decals... the nice "low vis" UN markings (yes I am being facetious). Academy did not provide the "UN" decals for the ramp or the cargo hatch, so I took those from an AFV Club Scimitar in my stash. They also did not provide decals for the Malay Army vehicle serial number, only the UNPROFOR bumper number. So I created those using some extra British Army AFV decals from my spares bin by cutting apart several to make the two, since the Brit ones are of the same style. The number itself is fictitious, but the letter prefix is correct.

and the parts that I have left to add tomorrow...

and that's all my updates of work for today/tonite....

Well, on Sunday I began the final painting. An overall coat of Tamiya Flat White, followed by a coat of Gloss White. The Gloss White did not turn out quite as well as I had hoped on the vertical surfaces, so I will need to use some Future there before the decals are applied. But here is how she looked overall Sunday midday before it was time for me to go to work.

on Monday I begain detail painting with enamels- I came across a few nice shots of Malay K-200s in Bosnia, and they did indeed show the ramp inner face was still green, and the surrounding area, when the ramp is closed stayed that color too. I used Dark Green 34079. I also used flat black on the rubber portion of the cover for the commo wire hook up box the the right of the ramp

then it was time for top deck details. Humbrol Gun Metal for the tripod & tankers bar, Humbrol Dark Green 34079 on the pioneer tools, Testors Gun metal on the antenna base spring, and Humbrol Flat Black on the rubber stops for the TC, Gunner, and Cargo hatches.

I also painted the rubber bore covers for the smoke grenade launchers in Humbrol Flat Black

Then it was time for me to go to work and no more time to get to my work bench until I had a few minutes before work on Wednesday. On that session I painted the spare track shoes in Humbrol Satin Black, which is how they look when new when the protective coating is still on those things

and I painted the tow cable Humbrol Gun Metal with the end portions in Dark Green 34079, again based off of the photos that I found

and that is where it stands now as I am about to go aout and do the final bits of detail painting in a bit here...

After I got all the parts on this one, I took it to my shelves and compared it side by side to my Dutch YPR. There are some noticeable differences between the two types.... this UN stuff is kinda cool...

i think i will get one of these too, maybe not the korean one but one of the dutch ones. i like adding the mounting brackets. i will do that too usually using angle iron styrene and my chopper. sometimes i have this vision of a tanker truck filled with cya pulling up next to a tank so the crew can attach all the spare gear. i may have to do another UN build, maybe 1 of 3 versions of PLA ZSL-92 6x6.

Thats funny, I have a shelf full of projects, want some?

Hey jibber, I presume that you meant the complement regarding the sharpie work was for Pyr and not me. No sharpies were harmed in the making of this build... so far... ;-)

And thank you to you and PM for the kind words on my project. I have an idea for a display base forming in my head, but that is outside the scope of this GB for now. And I have to do some research to see what area of the country it was where the Malays operated.

It's looking very cool Stik, I've never built this one but I'm sure it'll be on my shelf soon after seeing yours. I think with the ramp down showing that awesome interior and all the outside detail, this KIFV will show real nice. Almost there. BTW nice sharpie work, I thought you custom printed off some decals or picked something from another kit…Can't have a shaky hand there.

Thanks for the compliment on the AUF1, it's a very detailed and complex piece of AFV/Artillery and my intentions was to do it in the original French 3 color camo, but I couldn't pass up the chance to get it in here. Thanks again for letting me in at such a late date I hope I did it proud.

Terry

Greg, your 113 is coming along real good there! All ready for tracks now. I did a coouple final bits of work today: Machine guns primed with Flat Black; engine deck grill screens primed with Tamiya White Liquid Surface Primer; and the seams where the laminate side armor meets the rear were puttied and sanded smooth once dry. Tomorrow, White paint, Tamiya Flat White base coat followed by a Tamiya Gloss White top coat.

Terry: My fellow adopted countrymen would be proud of your build - it's magnifique!

I've added it to the 1st page.

Stik: the KIFV looks great and closer to finish....can't wait to see it completed.

I've managed to finish the squadron markings using a template & Sharpie (ultra-fine) and need to finish the tracks, followed by the final weathering.

And today's build update... last night after family business and before bed I finished painting up the tracks. Dry brushed Testors Flat Steel on the grouser road contact surfaces and then Floquil Weathered Black on the Track Pads

Then this morning the final stages of construction began. I glued on the idler and sprocket wheels and placed the tracks on as well. As you can see they were a bit a springy and loose fitting

then I added some brass wire pins into holed that I had pre drilled to tamp down the upper track runs

then I added the side laminate armor plates. Once those had set I began to add the final detail parts as well

exhaust pipe

right side grab handle/step

left side grab handle/step

smoke grenade launchers

pioneer tool shovel and spare track shoe mounting bolts

pioeer tool pick mattock head and handle

pioneer tool axe, tankers bar, and maching gun tripod.. I also added a bit of strip styrene to teh shovel mount to make a proper bracket instead of having it free floating on the upper side

and a couple of overall views

I have puttied up where the side laminate armor joins the rear plate and am waiting for that to dry to sand it later and then I can begin final painting...

Thought so, should work out nice.

Nope, just we merry few here... Lol! The Tamiya tracks are a bit loose in fit. I am gonna add sag by using metal rods inserted into holes that I drilled the other day over the first and last road wheels with the track test fitted. The side armor that I still need to add will come down to the top of the road wheels, so not too much will be visible there.

You have got a lot done, nice work  on the spare track and the Testors wash looks really interesting, I'll have to pickup some. Your extra tracks, how close are they to fitting and are you adding the styrene to create a sag or to tighten them up? It's coming along nicely, not many of us left here.

Ok my latest progress photos after a very busy morning and midday, I got a couple of hours of work in at the bench afterwards. Mostly detail painting. But first up this update of where I was when I started today:
Road wheels painted and installed:

front glacis plate seams cleaned up and the lower one painted. You may notice a rough area on the trim vane- I accidently touched that area when the paint was still wet and left a fingerprint. I had to sand that off after the paint dried

rear mud flaps painted

hatches all tacked down "buttoned up" for painting

outer faces of sprocket and idler wheels painted white, and sprocket cushion in black (the back sides of these parts are forest green)

I swapped out the kit indy link tracks for some single length Tamiya ones from another 113 based kit in my stash as a time saving measure. After the hot screwdriver method of joining the end, I applied this new Testors enamel tint wash that I picked up at Hobby Lobby last week. Great stuff, and it gave the tracks just the right shade.

I also pre drilled out some holes for some thin rod to keep the tracks down in place once installed. So that is where things stood when I started today's work session.

first up I added eight 2mm long pieces of strip styrene for the spare track brackets

once those had time to dry I sliced up some thin pieces off styrene rod to replicate the washers used to secure the spare track shoes in place on the brackets with 3/4" bolts on the real deal, and glued those in place.

now Academy thoughtfully included some bolts on the sprues that I will add after shaving them off of the sprues. I love how they include these things on some of their kits. A huge but of little detail items that make all the difference in the world for spicing things up in miniature

I mixed up a shade of bare steel using 2 parts Testors Chrome Silver to 1 part Testors Flat Steel that I am using on the tracks, sprocket, and idler wheel surfaces that have metal to metal contact in real life and get polished up from that in use.

So that is where it stands now. After some family business this evening I will dry brush steel on the grouser portion of the track shoes that contact the ground on hardball roads and after that paint the track pads black. Then let it all dry overnight before the next phase of installation tomorrow.

Yes I am real close to the finish line.... just things like work and working out getting in the way of what's really important. ;-)

It's huge, I sat it next to a Marder and it dwarfed it. You have to be getting close on yours?

That looks really good there jibber! I bet it is quite imposing in person.

Wayne thanks, I enjoyed the UN Build even though I got in late. Getting the pigments and oils right were a challenge so I checked out your UNIMOG and others and I think they're close. I'd really like to do another maybe a soft skin next time.

Terry

hey terry

very nice build and weathering, certainly not overdone. while painting with white can be annoying, weathering over white is also a challenge. it takes patience, a keen eye, and  an understanding when enough is enough, especially on modern vehicles. i will have do do another UN vehicle in the future

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Greg I'm calling my UN AUF1 done. This was a trying build from the very start and I wish there was a way of  showing the interior of this beast. It's a very large model and really detailed. Thanks for allowing me in at such a late date, please pick any photo you see works best.

Oh I did no modeling at all last week in that heat...  we had high windsw coming in from the direction that my garage opens as well, so between the two, wind and heat, it was a weather cancellation until Friday when it finally cooled off to more seasonal temperatures and the winds died.

Stik thats going to be one very nice build, you did a fantastic job on that interior. Having to spray in those temps must be very challenging, we're getting close…

Last week I got the top glued on my K-200. Today I puttied up the few gaps around the glacis plate top and bottom. I dont know if those were a result of me or the kit, but they were not there when I was test fitting...

I added some spare track shoes based on photos of them stowed there

and I did some detail work such as drilling out the exhaust, assembling the M60 Machine Gun and antenna mounts, and smoke grenade launcher

Now that it is not insanely hot here I can get more work done this week... 100*+ in the work area is not conducive to good modeling.

Thanks just trying to get it done with the little time left.

Jibber: the Auf1 is coming along nicely! Looking forward to seeing it completed.

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A few finishing details and working on track, 360 individual pieces that had to be carefully removed and trimmed. Its hard to see but in one of the close ups you can see teeny connector pins that lay into a groove which makes the track "workable" but with only these pins holding the track in place, its impossible to keep them connected. Meng has softer plastic than other manufacturers and these connectors just dont work. I'd get a few pieces that'll barely hold but eventually I had to glue in two long pieces per side for the top and bottoms so working the sprockets and idlers will be a real adventure. I gave them a primer black then sprayed a Tamiya red brown as a base coat and painted each pad a blend of flat black and gun metal. I added a little mix of pigments then I'll give the entire track an oil based wash that'll work the pigment into smaller areas. I still have doors and other small parts to add then I'll finish with an overall wash and dusting. Meng makes a great kit with very good detail but the tracks could be improved.    

sweet. makes me want to go through my SPA stash (or add to it).

Looking real good there Jibber

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A coat of paint and most of the wheels received a coat. I still have the rollers to do, add assessors and some other smaller parts. Lot of washes and pigments yet to come. 

Yeah there are some differences between the YPR and the K-200 families. I am planning on displaying mine together once this one is completed.

AFV CLUB has some YPRs though not ROK stuff. will keep looking. not like i don't have anything to build

Academy & Trumpeter are the only ones who make 1/35 ROK stuff. Trumpeter makes the K1 & K1A1 MBTs, basically the ROK M1 tank, and Academy makes the K-200, the M48A5 w/ROK specific parts, as well as the US version, and they make the new ROK 155mm SPG. All in all not a bad amount it stuff. I built the AFV Club YPR a few years back. It is a nice kit.

still looking for it. i don't have any ROK stuff; a ton of PLA and JGSDF. oh and BUNDESWEHR stuff. AFV club has a couple. i may just have to put out the word to my local clubs i will trade big for it

stikpusher

Jibber, I am not sure if I am gonna go with a dark gray pin wash or a burnt umber pin wash. I dont want anything too stark on the white. I will bedoing some good earth tones around the suspension & running gear as well.

Wayne, this is a K-200 APV, AKA Korean Infantry Fighting Vehicle (KIFV). Basicly a M113 derivative. It's a 1/35 kit from Acadmy. Yeah, I remember mixing ramen in with my C-rats or MREs. I also used to carry a bottle of Tabasco and can of powdered Gatorade or Kool Aid in my ruck.

stikpusher

Jibber, I am not sure if I am gonna go with a dark gray pin wash or a burnt umber pin wash. I dont want anything too stark on the white. I will bedoing some good earth tones around the suspension & running gear as well.

Wayne, this is a K-200 APV, AKA Korean Infantry Fighting Vehicle (KIFV). Basicly a M113 derivative. It's a 1/35 kit from Acadmy. Yeah, I remember mixing ramen in with my C-rats or MREs. I also used to carry a bottle of Tabasco and can of powdered Gatorade or Kool Aid in my ruck.

i think the gray will look nice, just a hint of accent without the heavy panel lines on some a/c which seems to be the current rage. it's always interesting to see how beat up some modern builds look. dirty yes, environmentals yes. even pinkish from the red soil or permanent grafenwohr gray but not rusty or lots of chipped paint.

so it's a modified YPR. i have looked at them for years, never bought one. will have to search. AFV CLUB makes a couple with 25mm turrets, dutch i think, but they may not have interiors. i used to carry fresh onions and the like and we would use them the first few days like on ww2 submarines. when i took the 4.2" mortar platoon each gun track had a cooler in the load plan and, since the FOs were moved to the tanks, my PSG had a jeep too. during REFORGERs we "lived off the land. firing posn recons included locations of the nearest byckerei and metzgerei. oh and bratwurst stands.

I'm going to experiment a little with a few oils to see what I get, thanks guys. I need to do less talking and more working, I'm down to the wire on this one.

Jibber, I am not sure if I am gonna go with a dark gray pin wash or a burnt umber pin wash. I dont want anything too stark on the white. I will bedoing some good earth tones around the suspension & running gear as well.

Wayne, this is a K-200 APV, AKA Korean Infantry Fighting Vehicle (KIFV). Basicly a M113 derivative. It's a 1/35 kit from Acadmy. Yeah, I remember mixing ramen in with my C-rats or MREs. I also used to carry a bottle of Tabasco and can of powdered Gatorade or Kool Aid in my ruck.

oops i knew that. i thought i was asking stik what he was building. must be late. 

AUF1. I'm finally getting close to the end, had a few delays. I think I'll try the oil wash, I'd already mixed Tamiya Flat White with a few drops of Buff but I like the look of the wash a lot better.

i will use TAMIYA primer when doing 1/350 and 1/700 boats. i use ace hardware NOW for armor. inexpensive and i only had 1 grainy issue which was probably a combination of near the bottom of the can, not shaken enough, and colder temperature in the garage. so basically operator head space and timing maladjustment.

what is it you are building?

Thanks Wayne, I have to tell you that under carriage on your UNIMOG is just awesome. On this build, I primed it using a Tamiya Grey rattle can that Ive always had really good luck with, not so much their primer white. Whats the difference, I have no idea but the grey sprays very smooth. I didn't want a white over white paint.

hey stik

sweet interior. what vehicle is this? i need to spend an afternoon in photoshop creating MRE, soda can , water bottle, and various other cases. a case of RAMEN n oodles for any us tank in germany in the mid to late '70s. you couls alwasy tell when an armor unit was going to the field. the small local px would be out of RAMEN as tank crews would by a caes or 2 to mix with C-RATs. tanker stew yum.

jibber

Wayne what washes did you use, I love the finish you got would that be a Burnt Umber or a Lt Brown?

let me ponder that. the chassis was painted engine gray and washed with raw umber and some gray and some black. the "dust" was a mixture of mostly raw sienna with some yellow ocher mixed in. for my future builds i will document all this much better since i seem to always be trying something new and can't remember what i did. the white paint i think was MMA over a not very good rattle can white primer. NOTE not a good idea for the primer to be almost the paint color. i did NOT add a clear coat of anything after painting.

the UNIMOG is going to chill con regionals as is a bunch of other builds i have retired from local contests. picked up another hobbyboss cool looking PLA 4x4 with roll bars and an MG. looks similar to JGSDF TYPE 73 LT RCN 4x4. hell looking at my stash i could do my own GB on modern 4x4 HUMVEE type vehicles. and the only HUMVEE i have is an AVENGER ADA

Wayne what washes did you use, I love the finish you got would that be a Burnt Umber or a Lt Brown?

stikpusher

I think my washes will take care of the new white look. I found a nice photo of one of my K-200s in the Bos and it has some nice filed look to it... just like I like!

yes they will. take a look at my UN UNIMOG truck. all the weathering on it is done with artist oil washes.

What washes are you thinking about?  With an all white build I was thinking about a pin wash to show some detail and use a little dusting in spots. I must have pulled 75 shots of UN vehicles and everything I could find on the AUF and with all the white vehicles I couldn't believe the differences btw them, almost anything we do would work. I never realized how many countries have used the AUF looks like we cleaned up a few in Iraq and theres some pics of the carcasses out there in 3 color camo.    

I think my washes will take care of the new white look. I found a nice photo of one of my K-200s in the Bos and it has some nice filed look to it... just like I like!

Thanks, I've been really slowed down as of late but just starting to get back to the bench. I didn't know you were leaving the ramp down, that'll really work. Thats going to be a cool build, too nice to leave closed. I have some UN flags, thinking about putting one on to give it some of that UN blue, and I also mixed up some Tamiya flat white and a few drops of Buff to take the bite out of the bright white. I took a look at it and it hurt the eyes it was so bright I feel better with a toned down color, just a tad.  

Jibber, your SPG is looking real good. Everything is starting to come together to where you see the finish line approaching. I think that we do have the same affliction to some extent. But nearly all of my interior work will be visible here thru either the ramp when it's lowered or the top hatches, which will all be open. Thank goodness is has no engine ;-) Lighting an interior would be really cool to see, especially on a kit with a busy interior. But I have no such aspirations at this time. I look forward to yours though...

Stik, how much of that incredible interior is going to show? Do we really have the same sickness? You spent so much time and put in that much detail, and then cover it up. Somehow I don't think we're the only ones who are afflicted….One of these builds I'm going to experiment with an LED and light up an interior with a very dim and diffused light and try to simulate low light conditions?

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Almost there on the AUF1, finished up the parts and laid a bed of primer on the vehicle and turret. Still a lot of work to do but I'll have it in under the wire, and I did it again, I spent so much time on the interior and the only line of sight will be through the open man doors. 

Stik, what a fantastic job on the interior, you really did it right, nice build.

Terry

Thank you sir...

Stik: you've done a great job on the details.

Lots more progress today...

the completed man pack radio

underside of top deck

troop compartment

drivers compartment

view from above

TC figure

I will be taking this to AMPS meeting tomorrow then get the top deck on and other detail items attached.

more progress today, lots of detail painting done on the interior and most of the internal stowage added.

drivers compartment

right side sponson top hull interior

left side sponson hull interior

overall interior

now I have one last little bit to finish tomorrow before washes and drybrushing. I had this radio in my spares bin so I made up the handmic and a folding tape whip antenna. I am gonna have it sitting on the battery box on the left sponson for the RTO when the squad would dismount

thats all for now...

Thank you sir. It's starting to look busy in there like a good track should.

Stik: that's looking nice.

Here is a teaser shot of progress so far...

gotta go to work now...

This thing is really great, I think other manufacturers should consider a similar jig. Other than a little clean up with the individual tracks, thats something we usually do anyway, this track is perfect. Meng's plastic seems to me to be a little soft, so I've been taking a bit more material that usual with a part requiring additional cleanup but I'm really impressed with their kits.

WHAT????!!!! A track jig? That's cheating!!! ;-)

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A couple pics of the tracks and the jig. I also had a little trouble finding the color of the interior under the UN Flag but there is one picture with a white interior. 

Hey greg the pics arent showing. Do you need a graphic made?

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Greg I'm running a little slow but I'll have my AUF1 done under the wire. I've concentrating on some PE and body work and prepping the turret for primer. I meant to add a pic of the way Meng has engineered their tracks. They provide a jig where you lock in the bottom of the track then lay in the inner half. I made a small section to see how it works and I have to say I'm a big fan. They lock in perfectly and if you're careful with the glue they come our very flexible. 

Ok, I don't think that I have anything quite like that in my bin.

Stik: they are black and about 3 scale inches.  I'll most likely have to hand paint them or cobble them together with dry-transfers.

Thanks for the offer, I appreciate it.

what color are the squares? I have tons of spare/old decals...

Stik: I need two small squares for the unit markings, one for each side. 31squareB. I also need to finish the tracks and weathering.

What are you stuck on there PM?

Stik: you're KIFV is progressing nicely.

Unfortunately, I'm somewhat stuck on the markings for my Aussie M113.

Well I gave a second coat of RLM 69 Light Tan today. This evened everythign out and it looks much better now

and a coat of Polly Scale Forest Green 34079 on areas I figured that would have been missed when they were repainted into UN White

I will let it dry and cure overnight, then I can start on interior color detail painting tomorrow

Thanks, I think I can work with this color better

Stik it still looks good to me.

Thank you sir. Well, I did not like the original sand color that I used, so I went thru my paints and came up with a better one, an RLM Sand color by Polly Scale... lighter and more yellow/ivory...

Stik: looking good.

A couple nites ago, I built and cleaned up the TC's .50 for this build. Hollowed out the flash hider bore, added a piece of scrap sheet plastic across the bottom of the ammo can, and I used a micro drill/pin vise and some needle files to improve the sights a bit. Nothing fancy, but just make them look more alive.

and today I painted the interior. I used an old Gunze color, Sandy Yellow, but I am not too keen on how it turned out... I may have to go back and try something else. This color is too dark and too gray for my taste based off of photos that I came across.

well here are today's promised photos: 

The grill screens that I made up yesterday

and glued in place

then it was time to start gluing all the small detail parts that I had slipped over in place...

hatches (sorry about the poor focus)

rear top deck

and with it all placed on the hull

more to follow soon...

Some very nice interior work indeed Jibber! It defintely would be a shame to close that all up for no one to see.

I have the right side turret taped on to see what interior will look like, I'm also leaving the left door open but the ammo racks won't show. 

Terry: the Auf1 is looking good.  

Interior pics. I need to finish up the interior painting and weathering especially near the open doors then I can assemble the turret.

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I got most of the interior of the AUF1 built and some paint going. From my research I found that a combat AUF1 is painted a shade of light blue and some a pale green but I couldn't find the color of a UN vehicle so I think I'm going to stick with the overall theme of B & W. My plan is to button up the turret but leave the side man doors open for a limited view but keep the ammo bay to the rear closed. In the next week I'll finish the interior and try to get the turret finished and painted. These kits from Meng go together beautifully. 

More progress on my build today.Today I did the final bit of gluing parts in the interior that needed to be done prior to painting. I also cut up some mesh into the proper sizes and shapes for the engine deck intake and cooling radiator screens. Nothing worth photos today, but probably tomorrow.

Terry: it was my own fault, sort of, I was hit by a bullet that had broken up, while peeking around the rear of our VAB, to look for the muzzle flash after 2-3 rounds had already been fired.  Fortunately, I survived and he wasn't so lucky.

Greg I'm sorry to hear that, I understand taking fire but in my case I could usually see the shooter. I think a sniper may be the scariest thing ever. All the best.

jibber

Greg tell me I chose correctly.....

Terry

Bish: nice circus tent......what time is the afternoon center ring show? ;)

Greg tell me I chose correctly, I had a 50/50 shot…thanks for the addition.

Terry

I have never been to Lebanon, so I cant say. But both are off the Med and have similar terrain and climates.

Jibber: I've edited the build roster.  Also, the first pic reminded me of my brief duty in Lebanon, back in '83-84.

I think you're right. The caption stated it was a joint training exercise between the French and Lebanese armies. I knew it wasn't France so I assumed Lebanon, I really shouldn't assume….

jibber

I believe it's Lebanon?

It looks a LOT like southern Bosnia Herzogovina between Mostar and the Adriatic coast. I know that the French operated in that area.

I originally signed up to build a British Scimitar in UN markings but I need to get this one done.

Thanks, Terry

I believe it's Lebanon?

Terry, I am not running this GB, Pyrman is. But I do not see why not, it looks like it qualifies and we still have several weeks left to go here. The terrain in that top photo looks quite familiar to me... not specificaly, but generally.

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Stik, I'm a little late to the party but I'm wondering if I could include my French Auf1 in UN markings by Meng to the GB. I started this a couple months ago and you can see my progress, I have a long way to go and I'd like to finish it up. I've been busy with other projects and I just haven't got around to it. This a unique vehicle and I thought it would be a nice addition to the build. 

Yesterday I did steps 3 thru 11, although I skipped adding the roadwheel arms in 9 and have not done the external fittings of the top deck in 11

So now that I am back in my proper hobby work area I can get the painting done...

I will if I can figure out how to do so later on... BTW, more progress on the KIFV today. The interior is nearly complete (sans painting) and some exterior components are coming along rapidly as well... This thing builds up easy and fast.

You could just post a pic of your tented abode.

Ok, I have finally begun my build for this GB. Better late than never right? I started my KIFV this afternoon. I am building under "field conditions" right now, so no photos will be posted tonite. Now to explain my "field conditions". My house is being termite tented on my days off this week, so my workbench in the garage is out. So in addition to my security camp in the back yard, I brought out my KIFV kit with the bare minimum of tools to build with- glue, needle files, sanding sticks, tweezers, and sprue cutters. I did forget to bring an xacto knife, but really dont think that I will need it at this stage. Anyways working on a glass patio table I have completed steps 1 and 2, which are the beginnings of the interior. If I can figure how to post photos off of this cursed ASUS tablet, I will do so. Otherwise, it will have to wait until I go back inside and have access to the desk top. Anyways the weather here is perfect, so I am enjoying a very beautiful evening, complete with tent, cot and firepit. (and some brews) life is good.

i am. thanks to for all the nice comments.

Wayne - I think white is a very hard color to weather in a realistic way. You have done an exceptional job, congratulations. I hope that you are well pleased with it.

Cheers

Tony

Looks great Wayne!

thanks. working on a new truck for NORTH AFRICA GB and just got my 3 weathering magazines so will try some new techniques with that.

Home Run!

first completion of the new year. this is an older kit i found at a vendor sale and, as i am into modern warwheels, an obvious buy for me.the build log is in the PEACEKEEPERS GB. warwheels build differently than tanks, at least until the top, and trucks even more so.

the suspension is flat brown with a dark gray oil wash which no one can see. it's not quite the color i was looking for. the muffler and exhaust are not heavily rusted reflecting on modern materials. i broke the tie rod twice so the wheels turn once. but that was the only real problem. i weathered it before continuing. yes it's a lot of parts but can you say INDY TRACK?

the cargo area is 6 pieces, the tarp and sides being a single piece. the interior construction tabs are hidden with painted modeling clay. there is no interior detail. NOTE check this before building as you may have to paint and weather the interior before assembly. i elected leave the tarp canvas instead of UN white for some color. the cab interior is sparten but adequate. had some decal slippage with the instruments, a good lesson learned. there were no rear windows so i made some which no one can see. again, for color, i decided they would leave the interior NATO green and the seat color looks military even if not exact. the same for the "water tan" colored 5gal cans. since i could open the doord i did and decided the MG-3 looked clunky so i left it off. it is PEACEkeeping not WARkeeping though my canadian LAV-III is armed to the teeth.

i primed it with armor white but, between the weather and not shaking the can enough, had some issues. this is why weathering is your friend. also it is annoying to have the primer color the same color as the base coat. i should know better but..... white is MMA flat white, canvase is MMA dark earth.

the decals were fragile and slid off the paper in 10 seconds so had to "build" a couple of the UNs and there is a bit of silvering. thanks to karl i have embraced oil based filters and washes. the lower part is raw umber and the upper part is a mix of sienna and yellow. i also played with lighter and darker for the tarp but don't think it shows. tiedown straps are painted and washed.the windshield was a bad fit and the clear mounting lougs very obvious as was my sloppy glue work. on the inside i hid them wuth L-bar styrene and on the exterior used a half round and strip to make a sun shield. UN peacekeepers don't go to the riviera. i washed the windshield to show wiper streaks and hide the side tabs. the base is one of my generic big warwheel dirt bases.

the build went through the usual "looks like crap" stage but all in all i am quite happy with the final product. a modern german soldier or 2 would look nice and i may build a specific base in the future.

almost done. doors and mirrors to attach, maybe some pastel dusting on the top though i tried oil washing everything. will leace it for now before i overdo something. should have pics tommorrow

thanks greg. i am getting more adventuresome with my oil washes and hopefully better. don't know if the seats were that color but they look military and warstuff needs some color. that's why the 5gal cans are "water tan" instead of "oil green". think i will dust the cab before putting it together.

i have one of those nets johan but haven't opened it yet.

Wayne: your cab interior looks good.

hi johan

i lost a set for an FFG. was taking a hot soak and reading instructions and didn't realize the decals were in the instructions and they slid out and hit the water

these decals are fragile. i broke 2 big UN but got them back together. the 3 on the canvas are done. need a second solveset and another shot of dulcoat.well more lessons learned. always start with a small one that can be hidden or replaced to see how the decals work, how fragile, how long to soak, etc.

other than the sliding instruments. i have to make a big sign that says DECAL BEFORE WASHING. it will turn out ok i think especially after grinding some pastel dust. another lesson learned paint AND WEATHER the inside of the cargo bed BEFORE adding the canvas. now to figure out how to streak the windshield. that may hide the stuff at the spot but may still adda sunshield because i can.

Hi Wayne&Guys,

All the best for 2014!

The interior looks the part and adds interest, so does your weathering of the area and also in the background the engine and undercarriage.

Maybe give it some windshield splash and open up for the windscreen-wipers?

Talking about decal slid - I actually managed to lose my BTR-40 decals completely...

Found an "Extra Thin Camouflage Net" from AFV Club that might do for a Barracuda thermal cover, it is their item AC35019, 20 and 21 for Desert Tan, Jungle Green and Snow Gray respectively.

If that works out I will most certainly go for the CV9040C in ISAF duty as well.

I am working my way through the undercarriage of the BTR-80 and its interior but not a lot to show at the moment - I do have another 4 days off and I am hoping to get at least a bit further until then.

Very Best Regards

Johan

i figured they wouldn't paint the cab interior for this so i painted it nato green. one of the dial decals slid and, though it won't be obvious, it annoys the hell out of me. will look for a replacement. may try soaking it to move it. as for the windshiels i don;t like the way it mounts. the 2 seide mointts aren't too bad but the top is screwed up and i got glue sloopy too. think i will add a sun shield with 1/2 round and strip styrene. call it an in field modification. should have the cab all together today. may try something with pin wash on all the ribs and sprinkle pastal while it is still wet. best practice that on something else first.

got the cab interior done. built 2 windows for the back since there aren'y any in the kit. no one will see them but i will know. finished doors and ready to add windows. will add fiddly remaining parts to chassis after so i can decal and wash before adding the top. chassis is washed in raw umber but i think that is too dark for the top so may do a sienna yellow mix. may do a light wash of dirty white on cab hood and top to show fading. will post pics later. my 4th truck.jeep and still learning a lot.. build quite differently than panzers.

hi johan

thank you. it is at the usual "looks like crap" stage as all my builds pass through and i keep breaking off parts which is really just annoying now.

the tires are rubber and i sanded down the center seam which worked well in this case. i always paint my tires, actually a heavy wash, engine grey so they look worn, i intend to do some light  weathering but haven't decided on pastels or a dark earth wash. i pin washed with dark grey instead of black and will probably pin wash raw umber on the canvas to highlight the creases. i presume the tie downs for the canvas? the back is 6 pieces so the side is one piece with canvas top and lower body so the tie diowns are molded. i hand painted them. the top canvas fir rather nicely and i body bodied all around and sanded it. the inside of the cargo area is void of seats or anything.

i have the trumpeter BTR-60PB in my warwheel stage. it annoys me too when i can't turn the front 4 wheels on any of my 8x8s. i haven't seen an easy fix as yet but i keep looking. i have built afv club STRYKER, hobbyboss EBR-10, trumpeter LAV III,JGSDF TYPE 96B and CENTAURO VRC-105 and none could easily turn the front wheels. oh well.

You are so far ahead Wayne - the UNIMOG is coming along nicely.

How did you treat the rubber tires?

Could not resist the BTR-80, the kit is huge!

The hull is nicely detailed and the casting is probably one of the best I have seen in a long time.

No sprueshoots yet but here is a hull picture...

The 8 roadwheels are made of a total of 180 parts - I test fitted LW3 just to figure out what the level of detail is - very nice indeed.

Unfortunately the kit will not allow W1 and W2 to be actuated, will see if I get arround that somehow.

Best Regards

Johan

Wayne: looks great!  Did you actually add the tie downs are is that a kit feature?

cool pics. the btr-60? is really worn. looks like a candidate for a salt weathering technique

truck is coming along. Chassis is finished except for some dust muddy weathering. i painted the cargo top tarp tan even though it would probably be white so i could have some more color. same for the tan 5 gallon cans. not sure if the doors are going to be open or closed. decided they wouldmn't paint the inside of the cab so it is nato green. i have to make windows for the back. didn't come in the kit for some reason.

Hmmm,

Would you guys know if the Barracuda type thermal insulation netting is available from any AM vendor?

If it was I could rather do the CV9040 in ISAF duty.

Best Regards

Johan

Greg,

Thanks for the welcome :)

Like the way the M113 is coming along!

Wayne,
That UNIMOG is coming along very nicely - looking forward to your next update! 

This will be fun - when I first saw your post I thought Finnish Sisu's in Bosnia but then I googled around and found these:
 

I need to finish my BTR-40 until I can get started but I could get some sprueshots of the CV9040C up if you guys are interested.

Very Best Regards
Johan 

hey greg

my DANA has a black undercarraige but it didn't "weather up" well so i thought i would start with a close to road grime color and wash it, hence the tamiya flat brown. i iwill wash this with dark gray and pin wash it with something, maybe raw umber or burnt sienna. hell nobody is going to see it anyway which is kinda annoying.

chris i'm using MMA flat white but will wash the tops with some polyscale dirty white which is yellowish or i may mix up an oil filter.

Due to too much stuff going on right now I won't start my kit until the new year but I will follow along until then.

As part of that what is everyone looking to use for the UN white paint?  There seems to be a few variations to "white" available.

Wayne: from the pics I found doing a Google image search, looks like most trucks had (semi-gloss?) black chassis, fuel & hydraulic tanks...basically, just paint the cabs and cargo beds in white.

i painted the entire frame of my UN UNIMOG tamiya flat brown. painted the outside of the frame and assorted fuel  tanks and cargo boxes.white. the motor is steel, chrome silver and metallic gray and pin washed with raw umber. in the procees i broke the tie rod so i can turn the front wheels once and they will be glued that way.

Johan: Welcome aboard....you've been added to da list.

it's primed in white and i touched up an AH-1F shelf queen while waiting.

looks like it;s warm enough today to do some priming so i'm off to the garage. all the glue parts are "painted" with masking liquid. i have to paint the inside of the cargo top before putting it together. i think i am going to paint the canvas khaki instead of white just for some color. doesn't have to be perfect on the inside. since i'm priming with armory white probably won't repaint the inside.

thanks. too bad most of it won't be seen. one of these days i'm going to dio one rolled in a ditch to show it off.

is that also known as the brush fire truck? i also have THE FIREFIGHTER fireboat which is old but a nice kit $30. that SIMBA must be huge. i will keep looking for one. i also have an italeri ladder truck, the trumpeter la france pumper and the other revell german fire truck and a whole bunch of stash i could swap.

i just ordered my UNI thru squadron and will use it for the 2014 automotive GB.

Wayne: the Uni is coming along nicely.  

I have the 1/24 Unimog airport rapid intervention rig, which I'm looking forwad to building.  A friend of mine recently picked up a Simba kit for $150, which survived Sandy, but the decals are unusable.

work continues on the UNIMOG as i contiue my search for the revell bundeswehr 7T 6x6 (1/35) and frakfurt airport 8x8 firetruck (1.24). just oreder a 1/24 UNIMOG firetruck so good practice here. decided i could put the engine and drive shaft in out or order so finished the frame. most of which nno one will see. the gray is mr surfacer to play with some accumulated road grime but may need to do it over primer instead of under primer/ also obviously had axles "upside down" whwn doing some of them. the instructions are a bit vague in spots but easy enough to figure out. i may be able to set the cab and bed on the frame so i can take them off to show it. OTOH i may not want to.

Older kits do tend to have the more noticeable flaws. Some corrected easily, and some not. I have no problem with somebody pointing them out to me myself. Happened most recently a few years back on a Sherman build, and was easily corrected. Unsolicited by me, but much appreciated at the same time. But it's your show here.

stikpusher

It's one thing to point out a kit's shortcomings to the builder that they may or may not be aware of.

It's one thing to point out a kit's shortcomings to the builder that they may or may not be aware of. But after that it is up to the builder to use or not use that information as they so desire. And it's all in the delivery.

Wayne: Both - it irks the bajeezuss out of me, especially when it's not requested.

i presume you have read of such incidents or been on the receiving end of such to necessitate such a rule.

A rule has been added to the GB rules - see 1st page.

I have seen that kit in one of the local shops.

started my UNIMOG 4x4. revell kit but probably never distributed in the states as it is a bundeswher vehicle.  all the separate pieces for the frame and the engine are finished and ready to prime as is the undercarraige for the cargo body.

the work area upstairs study

makes sense. they would just collect mud. familiar with armory. my LHS carries it. i may have to pick up a white can, have 2 grays and a black but usually use ace hardware NOW gray.

Stik: Yup, definitely easier to build w/out the interior.

Wayne: Going without the rubber skirts - all the reference pics I have show those in Rhodesia.  The white is Armoury's "primer white" from a 12oz rattle can - it's used by the gamers, as the Model Master primer white can came missing the ball bearing in the can! Once I've got all the Archer markings on, I'll hit it with ACRYL semi-gloss.

hey pyr 113 is looking good. are you going to have the wheel skirts up or down or off altogther?

i have every color. i use clear color green and smoke for my vision blocks too. i have also used various ones to get that colored burnt chrome look on tail pipes. . if they aren't clear will paint silver first. i saw some airplane guys tip the canapies in future first and i think some may even tint it with clear color first. have some practice pieces to try that on before doing a windshield.

any trouble airbrushing the white? what paint did you use?

I know that 113's are easy to buid (especially if there is no interior work to worry about) but you are really off to a flying start there Pyr. Almost done and ready for weathering!

final update for today:  I painted all the vision blocks in Tamiya clear green and then overcoated in smoke.  The taillights were painted in Tamiya clear red and titanium silver and also overcoated with smoke.  I still need to touch all of them up with a lil white around the edges.

I've added the "UN" and some of the other vehicle markings.  All markings are from the Archer UNPROFOR markings or the Canadian KFOR marking sets.

I also drilled out the exhaust and hit it with flat black.

stikpusher

I like your 113 there Pyr. My KIFV kit is by Academy, not AFV.

Thank you, Stik.  Thanks for the correction on the kit - senior moment.

I like your 113 there Pyr. My KIFV kit is by Academy, not AFV.

Here's an update:

primed hull

the turret

 now I'm off to paint the vision blocks and add the .30 + .50cal's

Here's what I've done so far on my Aussie M113(w/T50) for the UN Assistance Mission for Rwanda (1993-96)

shots of the hull  

I drilled out the headlights - will add MV Lenses after painting

I built jerry can holders on the rear

Wayne: looking forward to your build.

I'm working on an Aussie M113 w/T50 turret from UN mission in Rhodesia.

i need to get back to warwheels so will be doing a revell 1/35 UNIMOG 4x4 truck armed and in UN white. may do a canadian COUGAR or an italian CENTAURO in IFOR or whatever. btw i found pics of the JGSDF 4x4 LAV in haiti on a peace mission and pics of a PLA ZSL-92 8x8 IFV in Un white.

Tony, you're in.

Hi Greg,

How abut a 1/72 T-6 Texan in UNOGIL markings ? I'll buy the decals upon your confirmation.

Cheers

Tony

I will be in with a Trumpeteer 1/72 M113A2

Yep, defiantly in on this. I am still going with the Revell 1/72nd Warrior.

Pyrman64: Tamiya 1/35 Aussie M113  (UNAMIR)

Stikpusher: Academy 1/35 KIFV

Bish: Revell 1/72nd Warrior

USAFSPOOK:

Jibber: Meng 1/35 Auf1

waynec: Revell 1/35 UNIMOG

gunner_chris: Trumpeter 1/72 M113A2 UNFROFOR

taxtp: 1/72 T-6 Texan UNOGIL

JohanT: Trumpeter BTR-80 APC or HobbyBoss CV9040C