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1944 Group Build

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  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Monday, November 24, 2014 4:54 PM

Well done, Doug.  You're sailing along really well.  Very commendable!

Can I ask what brand of paint you're using?  Naval colors aren't too easy to come by.  Testors has some, I know, and of course WEM, but WEM is not easy to obtain on this side of the ocean.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Monday, November 24, 2014 11:33 PM

Bish: Top notch work so far. The 251 is looking sweet. Wow, that is indeed one unique camo scheme. I am very intrigued by watching you pull it off. By the way, I have no doubt that you will turn it out masterfully.

Doug: BRAVO!!! That is one spectacular masking and paint job. I am duly impressed. You should really be proud of yourself.

CMK: I'm curious as to what you use to thin WEM paints? I have a few tins of WEM Russian WWII aircraft colors I have yet to use and I've been wondering which thinner works best with their line of paints.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 3:18 AM

Hats off to enamel fans. It appears that Snyder and Short - a little mom/pop place in Sacramento - has a full variety of WEM. They run the fantastic USN Camouflage site. The WEM tins are $3.89. In case you have to buy from the source White Ensign doesn't charge VAT for foreigners and ship very quickly. But customs can be dodgy and I'd use Snyder and Short. (The order button is on the left side of the page.)

http://www.shipcamouflage.com/colourcoats.htm

I have WEM Navy Blue, Deck Blue and Haze Gray: really for color chips to make acrylic brews that match them. For water based acrylic fans like yours truly, Vallejo is the way to go. Some Brit fanatic compiled a really spiffy conversion chart for all WWII (and other eras) colors of major navies and their equivalent in Vallejo Model Color paints.

www.ipmsswamp.com/files/VallejoWWIINavalColorEquivalents.pdf

If you have trouble with that link, google "Vallejo WWII Naval Color Equivalents" and that will take you directly to a free PDF. I have found the color choices very accurate.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by Nomad53 on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 5:39 AM

CMK,

I am using cheap acrylic paints from Hobby Lobby. I think the most that I have paid for them is about $1.50 per bottle. Some were from Wal-Mart at .50 cents. As far as the colors I used I just went with light gray, gray and mixed my own deck blue using the hex code for the color as a guide on what percentages of red, green and blue to mix. I kinda eyeballed it.

Thanks for the comments on my build.

Bish,

Looking great there. Good luck with the camo.

Nomad53


 

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by Nomad53 on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 5:40 AM

Thanks Joe. I am trying.

Doug

Nomad53


 

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 6:21 AM

Time for update from my end of the bench. It's good to have some progress and some pics to share with you all as it's been a while.

Initial masking with Tamiya tape for general coverage and silly putty for edges:

Then the application of the MM intermed. blue:

Removal of the silly putty mask revealed that my edges were uneven and inconsistent. This is a product of being in a hurry and not closely inspecting my mask prior to airbrushing.

No big thing. I reapplied some larger silly putty sausages and touched it up:

Much better. With time off during the holidays and a winter schedule at work I should be able to make some ground. Thanks for looking Gents.

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone. Enjoy your time with friends and family.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by Nomad53 on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 8:14 AM

Nice recovery Joe. Your aircraft is going to be a good looking one. Looking forward to seeing more on this one.

Doug

Nomad53


 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 9:38 AM

Joe:  I use lacquer thinner from the local hardware store or Walmart and it seems to work OK for airbrushing.  For a kind of thinned dry-brush mix, I've used mineral spirits.  

I didn't know about the source Eric mentions in Sacramento.  Will have to check that out, since the Royal Mail won't handle overseas shipments of paint, and WEM is manufactured in the UK.

The only source I currently know about for WEM's Colourcoats is MidTenn Hobbies.

http://www.midtennhobbies.com/

They are kind of depleted now, but get major shipments in from time to time.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 9:40 AM

Thanks for the intel, Doug.  I'm still using old-school enamels for basic painting, but I like acrylics for pin-washes and stuff like that.

It was very creative to mix your own.  Good idea!

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 9:46 AM

That is a sharp-looking aircraft, Joe.  Nice work masking it all.  I like the way the colors came out, and the demarcation line is superb!

Are you using Testors Navy blue-gray?  I've noticed a very pronounced difference in the WEM and Testors interpretation of the color.  WEM is darker and even appears to have a greenish cast to it.

Got myself some Tamiya tape a few weeks ago.  Haven't used it yet, but am looking forward to trying it out.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 9:47 AM

Just awesome work everyone, and lots of good  information along the way as well. Yes

------------------------------------

About the WEM paints, I don't think White Ensign will ship overseas, see here:

https://www.whiteensignmodels.com/page/Shipping+and+Delivery/4/#.VHShr8nCZV8

Post 911, most western hobby sites won't ship enamel and aerosol  products by air, which is probably the case here. 

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 9:50 AM

Was wondering about that silly putty - any difference to the poster or blue tack? Anyone?

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 10:23 AM

Yesterday I was painting up the Mark 37 and Mark 38 gun directors, and was considering how to paint the deck blue tops.

If the tops were deck blue.  The photos I looked at were ambiguous, but I decided to try it any way.

Since I'm not real adept at brush painting, I wanted to mask them and spray, but using tape around all the little protrusions would make that next to impossible.  So I thought I'd try submerging them into poster tack.  The photo isn't real clear--too dark, but you can get some idea.  I did use a little tape along the front of the base of the Mark 37 and around the little stem that holds the radar.  Then I just pushed the tack all around it.

The base of the Mark 37 is at the left; the top to the right, and the Mark 38 at the bottom.  There are four Mk 37's and two Mk 38's.

When I sprayed the paint, I used the base color again first before the deck blue.  I was hoping it would seal things in, like it does with masking tape.

The results were mixed.  The Mark 37's came out OK.  The Mark 37's will require some brush work to touch up the ragged edges.

Drat!  Either an idea whose time has not yet come; or the technique needs some refining and practice.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 10:24 AM

Jack:

so that (above) is my most recent experience with poster tack; I haven't done much with silly put yet.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 12:40 PM

Thanks Doug & Checkmate.

checkmateking02
Are you using Testors Navy blue-gray?  I've noticed a very pronounced difference in the WEM and Testors interpretation of the color.  WEM is darker and even appears to have a greenish cast to it.

CMK, I used Model Master Intermediate Blue. I use for reference "The Official Monogram U.S. Navy and Marine Corps Aircraft Color Guide". This book has color chips in it and the MM intermed. blue is pretty much a dead on match. I also have Mr. Color intermed blue and it is much bluer than the color chip provided.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 1:25 PM

OK, Joe, I see.  Thanks.  This is the three-color scheme you're doing, not blue-gray over gray.  I get it  now.  

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 5:13 PM

Guys, just a quick one as I wasn't able to get on tonight until now and its pretty late. I have been chatting with Stik and we have decided to run the 1945 GB together as we both have a couple of other GB's on going. Clearly it helps if we can get on at the same time to do the first two posts but this isn't easy with the time difference. But hopefully we can arrange it for the weekend. So watch this space.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 5:45 PM

Good to hear this, Bish.  Thanks to you and stik!

On the bad side, regarding the earlier discussion of WEM paint, it seems the company is closing up shop, which will be a severe loss for ship building.

It's being discussed in the "Ships" forum, and other places around the web.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2013
Posted by Raven728 on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 6:34 PM

Thanks guys. I agree with Eric, I think that really heavily weathered and/or color modulated models usually look overdone even though I'm in awe of the skill and time that went into them. It's very much a matter of personal taste.

Bish, good to hear about the '45 GB. What to build, what to build....

- Steve

  • Member since
    February 2014
  • From: Michigan
Posted by silentbob33 on Tuesday, November 25, 2014 6:41 PM

Lots of great work going on here!  I'm always in awe of shipbuilders, but I haven't really built any.  I don't even have any in the stash, but I'd like to try my hand at a carrier.  

I'll have to start looking through my stash for something to build for the '45 GB.  So many options...

On my bench: Academy 1/35 UH-60L Black Hawk

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Wednesday, November 26, 2014 1:19 AM

I've got a WWI cycle in the works, but I need to do a Rooskie tank for 45. Never done a T-34 - figure that. So maybe a T-34/85. Or a Stalin - a tank that would have warmed Vader's heart. I'd really like to do a SU-76, a very neat looking buggy that was the second most produced Soviet AFV. I've heard the Mini-Art kit of it - the only one out there - is a real challenge with very complex independent tracks. Hello DML?

My experience with buck a bottle hobby store paints was short - but long enough to learn that you get what you pay for. I use Golden Fluid Acrylics all the time and like them a lot. They're $4 for a 1 oz bottle, but the paints are so well made and bottled they'll last years. And they are a lot better in every way to a bargain brand. My problem is not running out of paint, it's learning to stop buying them. At least Golden are made in the USA and we have to do our best to help out the economy.

Happy Thanksgiving folk

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    September 2013
Posted by Raven728 on Wednesday, November 26, 2014 8:05 PM

Now presenting Dr. StrangeBase or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Build a Diorama

As promised, here's my first-ever base. I followed the directions in James K. Wechsler's Building and Detailing Realistic Sherman Tanks

The setup:

I used a sheet of .080" thick sheet styrene, 6" x 12". I had considered cutting a second sheet in half and gluing the two sheets together, but after placing the model on the one sheet I felt like it was a good enough fit. As instructed, I scored the sheet in a crosshatch pattern using a razor saw in order to give the plaster mix something to bite into (note: this generates a lot of styrene dust, more than I was prepared for). I painted the base hardware store brown spray paint, but I'm not sure it's even necessary.

The goop:

(Sorry for the blurry image). This is a mix of Plaster of Paris, Grade A Pennsylvania backyard dirt, Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement, white glue, water, and a mix of black, brown, and rust acrylic paints. I didn't measure anything, just kind of threw it all together until it was the consistency of pudding.

The spread:

At this point I spread the plaster on the base, which was very much like icing a cake (I almost licked the knife once or twice). After this photo I went back and smoothed it out a bit more, but it doesn't need to be perfectly smooth.

The sprinkle:

Here I sprinkled on the rest of my dirt. I think it looks a lot like a crumb-topped cake at this point (drool).

The grass:

The last step was to sprinkle on some greenery - I used Woodland Scenics medium green "coarse turf". I spread it out as best I could (it tends to clump), and pushed it down gently into the wet plaster. I'm pretty pleased with it at this point, but I may go back later and add more grass using the scenic cement.

Overall, I really enjoyed doing this. It was a lot easier and more fun than I expected, and I like how it turned out. Thanks for reading.

- Steve

G-J
  • Member since
    July 2012
Posted by G-J on Wednesday, November 26, 2014 9:17 PM

Bish

Guys, just a quick one as I wasn't able to get on tonight until now and its pretty late. I have been chatting with Stik and we have decided to run the 1945 GB together as we both have a couple of other GB's on going. Clearly it helps if we can get on at the same time to do the first two posts but this isn't easy with the time difference. But hopefully we can arrange it for the weekend. So watch this space.

Awesome news.  I have thoroughly enjoyed this GB, and I look forward to the '45 Build.  Even if it takes me the whole year to complete a model.

On the bench:  Tamyia Mosquito Mk. VI for the '44 group build.  Yes, still.

On deck: 

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Wednesday, November 26, 2014 10:57 PM

Oh man, that is way cool Steve. Looks good and seems like a great bit of fun. Thanks for sharing that with us.

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Wednesday, November 26, 2014 11:51 PM

Your model turf is looking good, Steve.  At least you won't have to mow it in the spring.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by Nomad53 on Friday, November 28, 2014 11:58 AM

Looking good there Raven. Do not let building dios get ya I had trouble on my first dio. Keep it up and you will be doing dios all the time.

Doug.

More photos of the Missouri coming soon.

Nomad53


 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Friday, November 28, 2014 6:26 PM

I had two projects I wanted to get finished up today.

One was starting the rigging on some of the superstructure.  I used stretched sprue as usual, tacked in place with white glue and tightened up with the heat from a (little) cigar.

I hadn't intended to add any PE to North Carolina, but after I painted up the plastic kit part for the SK 2 radar  and put a wash on it, I couldn't see using it.  That's the kit part on the right.

So I hauled out a sheet of US Navy radar from Lion Roar and put it together.  That's it on the left.  The photo doesn't show it to the best advantage, but it's a lot more delicate-looking than what came with the kit.

Also worked on the scout planes today, and maybe will get photos up later on during the weekend.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: Oil City, PA
Posted by greentracker98 on Friday, November 28, 2014 9:41 PM

Hmnmmmmm 1945 huh. Am glad to see it coming together. I'm still working on the 1944 B 24 D. I think the Liberator will be late. but, I'll get it finished up ASAP

1945 will take some thinking/research/googling and seeing what catches my eye. I recently watched a show on the Berlin Wall. It wasn't a wall in 1945, but Germany & Berlin was divided up then. When did the Berlin Airlift take place? I just looked it up. It was June 27, 1948 to May 12, 1949 in case anyone else was wondering.

A.K.A. Ken                Making Modeling Great Again

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, November 29, 2014 2:31 AM

Nice work on the base Steve. I have started on mine as well and will include some pics with my next update.

Looking great check, really nice detail there.

Ken, ye, unfortunately, the Airlift was a bit to late for the 45 GB.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by Nomad53 on Saturday, November 29, 2014 8:26 AM

Awesome CMK, just awesome. I am having to re-mask and re-paint the camo pattern on the hull because it was was out of place. Just a minor set back.

Photos later on.

Doug

Nomad53


 

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