jgeratic

 

Yes, definitely looking forward to the November issue, and revisiting the heroes and villains created by our group.

regards,

Jack

Worth the subscription alone

Sorry Jibber,

I'm where I was last time I posted pics due to school and everything.

Tim - that CMP lorry definitely looks familiar.  That would be right on if you can squeeze that one in.  I have a feeling that I might need an extension on the deadline, even though I haven't started my light tank yet.  At least the tracks are the vinyl type, so that portion will be straight forward and quick.

Yes, definitely looking forward to the November issue, and revisiting the heroes and villains created by our group.

regards,

Jack

Terry: Yup, that's one of the big problems I had with the MiniArt building- getting the windows and doors lined up and sanded to remove the seams there.

Tim: I like it! Considering how much paints tend to discolour and fade I've been generally aiming for a ballpark estimate. Course most of the stuff I've done armour wise lately had been olive drab so it does make it a bit easier. Am looking forward to that issue- first time I've had anything published!

Jack: Great photos there, and that paint does look the spitting image of the shade in those photos.

jgeratic

Not exactly sure how soon I will join in on the fun, but great work everyone.

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Tim, thanks for posting those swatches for the caunter scheme.  I agree, the Starmer mix for Portland Stone does look quite yellow there, but doesn't look that off compared to the DOA paints (see below).

regards,

Jack

Jack, 

Thanks! I think they're pretty darn close.

By the way, does this truck look familiar?

Z4463767 -- with the "WL" on the driver's door? I may have to burn through the Matilda so I can do a second vehicle with a Caunter scheme for the build.

By the way ... see that issue of FineScale behind the box? That's the November advance copy. There's something very special in that issue. It may include names like Darth Vader, Red Sonja, Capt. Nemo, and Mr. Scott. Maybe. 

Not exactly sure how soon I will join in on the fun, but great work everyone.

-------------------------------------------------

Tim, thanks for posting those swatches for the caunter scheme.  I agree, the Starmer mix for Portland Stone does look quite yellow there, but doesn't look that off compared to the DOA paints (see below).

During the summer I had posted my experience with Trackpads, a webstore based in the UK.  Well, a few days later I was finally contacted, and after a 4 month long wait, my paint order finally was straightened out.  For my troubles, a few extra paints and weathering powders were thrown in at no cost to me.  My order was almost doubled with the added freebies - nice!

Within that purchase were three DOA acrylic brand paints for the caunter scheme.  They are purportedly mixed to Starmer's research, but I have never seen any review by him personally supporting this product.

So here are some swatches of said paints.  To help compare, I've added some Tamiya colours.

Also found these interesting photos exhibiting the caunter scheme, but don't know if they have been colourized.

regards,

Jack

Terry, I have seen other add reinforcement to the inside of those, looks like the way to go. I'll be watching this. maybe you should think about doing this part as a WiP in diorama's, I am sure there will be others keen to see this.

Tim, looks like your doing a lot of research into this, look forward to seeing the paint on.

Tim Kidwell

EDIT: Aaron and I went snooping around the Australian War Memorial website. Here's the complete collection of photos of the New Zealanders (not Aussies as I said previously) who captured the Matilda. 

So, I'm assuming that the camo scheme was the original applied by the Brits. The Germans added the crosses.

As promised, here are the swatches:

On the left are the colors I made using Mike Starmer's formulas for Tamiya paints. On the right, are Tamiya's recommended colors. At first, I was shocked at the vast color differences. Starmer's mixes shift yellow quite a bit. But, then looking at references online, they hold up way better than the Tamiya suggest colors. So, here's a lesson for everyone--do your research!

That isn't to say that I couldn't have used Tamiya's colors straight from the bottle and had a fine looking model--I could have. But I am gratified that I took the time to look into this and do the color swatches. It's been an entertaining exercise. Now, to get some Portland Stone No. 64 on my captured Matilda.

By the way, everyone's doing excellent work in here. Congrats to Shiv and Bish for finishing their models. Fast ... too fast ...

And where's Aaron Skinner in all this?

And, have you guys seen my review of the Moebius Models Cylon Raider? (Shameless self-promotion!) I had a great time building it. If you're at all into sci-fi, I'd suggest it.

I have to go edit video. New NPRD out on Monday!

Conky have you started, I'm curious on how you go about it. For me the styrene strips was the only way to go.

Gamera I have all the parts put together and glued. So far the framing works but now comes the work trying to smooth out the edges. Thats the problem with these kits.

Terry

I've had the same problems with the MiniArt building- looking forward to seeing how the framework you're building there works out.

JIBBER!!

I have the same diaroma set as you!

Conky

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Bish here are the buildings, I added styrene stock inside edges that added stability and a glueing surface. I have them all together and glued so my next step is to putty up the seams. I think this is where I'm going to run into a time issue, trying to get a nice painting surface.  

Terry, I have a couple of those Mini Art buildings but have not built one yet. But I have seen a couple built recently and they do not seem as easy as they look, so be warned you might have a challenge on your hands.

Bish, Tim your comments are much appreciated. It's coming along as planned so far but my real challenge are still the eight figures that I'm going to set on it. In my spare time I'm also working on a Mini Art set of German bldgs that also copies my reference photos. Theres a chance that the figures and the building may take more time than I have and I'll have to submit the tank when completed, if thats the case I'll have to finish it up in the Armor Forum as a WIP but thats still a last resort.  

That's looking great Terry, love the weathering on the wheels. Nice work.

Terry, your Tiger is rocking my world! Great stuff all around! I think the weathering on the wheels is subtle, and the camo is right on target. When this thing goes together, it's going to be killer.

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I just finished up spraying my camo pattern on the King Tiger.  Because my B&W photos weren't a lot of help, I was able to find a similar KT from the 506th and copied that vehicle and from what I can make of my photos, this was a good match but I still need to soften it up a bit with a light overspray and finish with a wash and weathering. I also weathered the lower hull with some MIg European Dust using some pigment fixer and I also gave a light coating on the wheels to give me a base that matches the tracks. I still have a ways to go with them but so far the Tiger is coming along nicely.  

Lol I posted in the wrong GB. This is for armour in the west GB.

Tim: Looks sharp!

Shiv: Hmm, always used Mr. Surfacer- haven't tried enamel paint yet.

Shiv that looks tough but its really close. Maybe a light sanding over it?

Jibber those tracks look great. They turned out a lot better than mine did. I have to put mine in the burnishing solution again.

Tim, liking how yours is turning out. Looks like a fun project.

Well a bit of an update on my Chaffee. The turret has a seam going around the front of the turret just behind the mantle that is suppose to be a weld seam.

So I have been practicing with techniques and tried using an enamel paint.

going to try a couple more times and refine the technique.

SS thanks, Tim that suspension looks very cool, looks like a fun build.

Looking good, Tim!

A quick update: Some wheels are on.

My plan is to pick up some colors I don't have tonight and make swatches to show you guys tomorrow using the formulas I've found to correctly emulate the Caunter scheme. 

Terry, those Friuls look gorgeous!

That was my goal, its especially hard to copy a B&W WWII picture. A lot more to go on this beast.

Hmmm, I wasn't thinking rust as much as just ground-in dirt and grime. In any case I love the results you've gotten here.

Wayne I'm not sure why I'm getting different color tones through my pictures but this is the real color here. A couple other pictures show a more reddish hue? The only rust color I used was as a base and almost completely covered in European Dirt. Maybe lighting, maybe camera, maybe me?? Anyway thanks for the nice comment. 

jibber

Gamera, Bish thanks. My intention wasn't to make them rusted but just to have a deep layer of old rust color, then top it with some dust pigment to add a layered effect and make sure the gaps in each cleat are filled. To me they look like a well used urban track something I would see on a piece of construction gear around town. The other pieces are for the turret.  

 i think they look fine. i know from experience that active tracks don't get rusty but, as a gfx artist, i also know about presentation and most folks, even modelers, expect rust. so dark rust blended with black and environment just "looks right."

Gamera, Bish thanks. My intention wasn't to make them rusted but just to have a deep layer of old rust color, then top it with some dust pigment to add a layered effect and make sure the gaps in each cleat are filled. To me they look like a well used urban track something I would see on a piece of construction gear around town. The other pieces are for the turret.