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Thank you! :o)
Oh wait! It's HUGE!!!! How do I shrink it down????
(Edit) Never mind. I got it figured out. Phwew!
Stik, thank you for running a great group build! As a dyed-in-the-wool Monogramaniac, this was right up my alley and it was a lot of fun. I love seeing everyone's progress on these great kits. Keep up the good work!!!
Eric
Eric, it has been my pleasure to host this GB. The work here has indeed be quite impressive. I am looking forward to seeing what is next.
F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!
U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
- Plankton
LSM
Looks like this thread has gotten big enough to encounter the bug in which the latest posts don't show, if you access the thread from Your Discussions. I did, and got a blank page. I had to go to the first post, then use the "Last" arrow to get to the last page of the thread.
The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.
Yes it has... We have made the big time here ;)
"Made" being the operative word. Heh-heh-heh...
I, too, am getting that blank page. Must be a glitch in the Matrix.
It's just the tamigawa faction. Envy running amok.
The Tamigawa Yakuza?
Hehehe!
Some early progress done in early October
Chris Christenson
I had to get some replacement decals for The Turtle
Don't know what happened to em but...............
Also got a set for Robert Johnson's Razorback
Razorback ready for paint. I will cover the Bubbletop with aluminum foil using an FSM article from 1989.
Oops that was the Johnson decal set. This is The Turtle
Ok, so, it's been awhile since my last post (maybe around a month), and here's the latest on my F-100D......
I have sanded her down to what I will officially coin as a "NDRPL" (No Danged Raised Panel Lines) finish. I tried my darndest to sand away as few panel lines as possible with this build, but way too many were gone by the time I was finished with all the sanding of filled seams. So many, in fact, that I just couldn't justify the time it would take (plus learning a new skill) to restore the missing panel lines and rivets. So, I decided to just sand them all away. Back in the mid- to late- 70's, that what most modelers were doing anyway to raised panels lines on 1/72nd & 1/48th scale models. That's what you see in the above pictures - no raised panel lines, and very, very few recessed panels lines (maybe one on the spine behind the cockpit). I filled, with super glue, virtually all of the recessed panel lines, including the shell ejection ports and the ammo access panels that Monogram provides that are an extremely poor fit. The gun ports are still present, but just about everything else is gone. Maybe we can pretend that all the panels lines were caulked over in the field to give it that "speed" edge while in a combat situation........
I'm hoping to have some paint on her very soon, after all the water dries out of it (I wet-sanded it today).
Devil Dawg
On The Bench: Tamiya 1/32nd Mitsubishi A6M5 Model 52 Zeke For Japanese Group Build
Build one at a time? Hah! That'll be the day!!
Keep pluggin', Double D!
Looking good DD...I have not posted in here in a while either. Could you briefly go over what wet sanding exactly is? (I'm assuming that the sand paper gets wet) and why its better than just plain old sanding?
Also, I bought a new airbrush with my tax return, was going to spray the MiG (yeah I know my deadline is way past) since it got in the 60's, but what do ya know, my old airbrush hose didn't hook up to the new airbrush and since it was 1800 on a sunday, everywhere that had what I needed was closed Spring break is over now so I might have to wait to may to test it out on the MiG. I've gone through the past pages and y'all have been doing some excellent work! I loved that dragonfly (can't remember whose it was though) and it stuck out because hopefully I'll be doing one soon (isn).
-Josiah
Wet sanding is done with wet-or-dry sandpaper usually in the finer grits (220 and finer). When I wet sand I dip the paper in water and sand in a circular or semi circular motion. Instead of a bunch of sanding dust you get a wet sludge which wipes or rinses away easlily. I find it especially useful for smoothing out primer, and seems to be a better choice when sanding automotive glazing putty.
A definite must to keep your work environment as dust free as possible
Thank you Chris
Also, I couldn't resist the temptation to try out the airbrush...results below. I am very happy with how it turned out, though I know there's lots of room for improvement.
ygmodeler4 Looking good DD...I have not posted in here in a while either. Could you briefly go over what wet sanding exactly is? (I'm assuming that the sand paper gets wet) and why its better than just plain old sanding?
Sure thing, YGMODELER4. As someone noted a few posts earlier, wet sanding is getting the sandpaper wet. I believe he said that he uses a cup of water, dipping the sandpaper in the cup occasionally, which works well. Here's the way I do it: Get a sink that has a slightly higher-than-normal faucet on it (so you can get your model under the running water easily), adjust the water temp to decently warm (or cold - it's your preference), and, using wet-or-dry sandpaper, sand away! The reason I like it better is that it helps keep the sandpaper from clogging, as you're constantly keeping the sanding residue washed away; the plastic has less scratches on it from the sandpaper (i.e. smoother finish); your sandpaper lasts longer; and, it's easier to tell how far you've sanded due to the residue being constantly washed away. I only do this when I'm doing a LOT of sanding at one time. If I'm sanding a small area, such a some small putty-filled seams, then I just use a sanding stick. But, large areas are much easier to do with this technique.
ygmodeler4 Thank you Chris Also, I couldn't resist the temptation to try out the airbrush...results below. I am very happy with how it turned out, though I know there's lots of room for improvement.
Great job, Josiah, especially for your first-ever airbrushing job!!
Thanks for even further elaboration DD, and thanks for the compliments...not my first airbrush job, first with this brush though and first freehand camo though
DonStik, who orginally made the 1/48 Bf 110G molds? I am wanting to think it was RoG (and not eligible for this build) but I am not certain.
Couldn't agree more with what Chris and Devil Dawg said. Once I discovered the joys of wet sanding, it became my favorite method of sanding. Don't be like me though when I was first learning about it. I failed to buy sandpaper that was SPECIFICALLY meant for wet sanding. I just bought regular sandpaper. Needless to say, once I started sanding under the faucet, the grit on the paper just washed right off. D'OH!!
My workbench is hard enough to keep clean as it is. By wet sanding in the kitchen sink, it not only makes for better sanding results, but it washes away all sanding residue. You're literally working and cleaning all at the same time. Can't beat that.
ajd, the 1/48 110 was originally released in the Monogram Pro Modeller line in the early to mid 1990s as a night fighter. They later came out with a couple of dayfighters as well. Any of those kits will qualify for this GB.
DD, nice to see your Hun back up here again. I am looking forward to seeing the finished bird.
YM, that freehand camo looks real sharp. I do like that mottle pattern a LOT. But yes, I know you have passed your six month deadline. I suppose a dispensation can be made due to considerations of your schooling and such.
Well in that case, I have a few Revell/Monogram kits lined up for other group builds. Now I normally don't do cross-overs, but I wouldn't feel bad about it since I've already finished my two exclusive builds for this group. I don't suppose you guys would mind me clogging up this joint with all the R/M victims I have lined up?
not at all ajd... bring 'em on in
On the Bench: Too Much
cb
It is one with the fuselage!! What did you use for blending medium?
freem cb It is one with the fuselage!! What did you use for blending medium?
Zap-a-gap mixed with ez flow acrylic nail powder
Cb, no issues with fogging the canopy?
mississippivolCb, no issues with fogging the canopy?
Another way top avoid fogging the canopy with CA on the outside: have a fan blowing over the glue as it dries. It will blow away the fumes that tend to fog the canopies. It sure worked for me.
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