I dont think a shell will stay on trajectory without twisting out of the barrel but i'm not an artillery expert by no means.

A little Mr Surfacer 500 on the casted parts of the gun cradle and the barrel recoils on allignment pins and springs. I made a mix of AK Fuel Stain and very dk brown pigment mixed to a grease consistency to use as a lube for the wheels and gears. I think its the right thickness and color, should be ok. I also sprayed the top coat on the upper and lower hulls.

That's interesting, I wonder if considering the shell's size the barrel only had a slight amount of rifling- so little that it looks straight??? 

Thanks guys, my wife got very upset with me last night when I came home and started working in the garage (103 deg. F). I promised her I would only work on the hobby room until Saturday.

Terry,
Since I was in the hobby room last night and restocking my stash. I opened the OTS Hase Karl. I found the barrel and guess what? The rifling’s are straight on that one as well. Do you suppose the riffling’s were straight on the actual gun?

Very cool stuff guys!

Steve: I know what you mean about wanting to get stuff set up but she's right- don't push yourself too much.

jibber

Steve go easy, theres nothing more important than your health.

Wayne from the photo it looks ike the wheels are just fine.

 

DITTO take care of yourself and listen to her ,Steve. 

Terry the wheels are fine. the comment was intetnded for other builders. as mentioned, once i figured out the pin slot thing the right side 4 wheels were a snap. some seam sanding but that gives a worn look to the tires.

interesting on the chassis, the front 4 wheels turn but i guess they are alligned internally or electronically. no tie rods like on the BdW 6x6 FUCHS.

no easy way to turn them on the kit. IIRC the SS-25 is the same way. may be a Soviet design thing or i am too used to trucks. 

Steve go easy, theres nothing more important than your health.

Wayne from the photo it looks ike the wheels are just fine.

Terry,

That is odd about the rifling. I'll have to check the OTS, as Wayne calls it, Hase kit to see if it's the same. I can't wait to see the finished project.

Wayne,

You’re moving right along. I had an Al-Husain Scud at one time but sold it. Wish I had it now for Stick's GB.

I still haven't gotten the hobby room up and running. We moved from a 5 BR 2500 sq. ft. house to a 3 BR 1400 sq. ft. house and I still have boxes everywhere. I am moving boxes from storage to the house and from the house to storage in the evening after work. I have unpacked some of the hobby room boxes (at least I have a hobby room now) but am so beat in the evening I just don't have the stamina to get in there. My Pulmonary Fibrosis doesn’t help as I only have about 60% lung capacity now and just get worn out quickly. The wife gets on me about working too hard, but I just want to get finished so I can relax with a model in the evening and don't have all this work hanging over my head. Besides, we need to be out of one of our storage units by the end of August.

Oh well, maybe I should listen to her. What good will my models be if I have a heart attack getting to a place where I have no more work.

Steve

Lesson 1. look very closely at the tire halves. while it appears the 3 slots are 120 degrees apart and the same size i don't think they are. sorta forced one, second and third went smoothly so i looked at the tread and saw the error on first, pried it apart and fixed it. same with fourth. there is an axle that needs to be inside due to a spacer on the one tire half. i just glued it since i don't want the wheels turning. also there are left side and right side tires and mounts so keep them segregated. when the slots are correct the fit is fine. this doesn't even qualify as an annoyance just a head's up and a nice early warning to moi to dry fit and RTFI.

second set of tires went together fine. no paint instructions for interior but am going with pale blue per DML kit. black chassis amnd khaki/sand exterior with white missile

there are 4 subsections along the chassis. the first and third have interiors and opening doors so they are awaiting a paint decision. this is the second section located behind the cab. for some reason they left the back of the storage boxes open. it probably wouldn't be seen in travel mode but would be in launch mode. i added some styrene, glued the tops on, and filled the gaps with white glue and a Q-tip.

tried thinning the 3M Bondo with acetone before filling seams on the SCUD. looks good but i haven't painted the seams to check. will do that today. givern this is OTS i will use Tamiya fine surface primer instead of my usual. cost A LOT more but can use the HobbyLobby 40% coupons.

here is the missile and both sides of the control room (Section 3). closeups show what will be seen with the hatches open. picked up some Vallejo blue/gray which is a very light gray with a hint of blue. may add a bit of blue to it just to ad some color. missile will be pale gray instead of white and i have seen piucs where they are the same color as the TEL.

I'm ready to connect the upper and lower hulls and get some paint on them. I jumped ahead a bit to dryfit the barrel and gun mount, what IO noticed is that the riflings are straight instead of a twist. To me this is odd because this kit os so detailed, how can Trumpeter make a mistake like that. Maybe it's me but i've never seen any type of gun barrel big or small without some type of twist. I'm going to show the gun in the rested position so it wont be that bad but if I was to show it in firing mode I think i'd have to change it. 

waynec

can i jump in here with an OTS TOXSO SCUD?

You got it. I updated the roster.

jibber

No it isnt, but I think detail like this makes the Trumpeter kit light years ahead of Dragons.

 

i have heard that is true for the 1/35 K-5 RR guns and is the reason i will pay more for the Trumpeter 1/35 HEMMT PATRIOT.

hey MC

can i jump in here with an OTS TOXSO SCUD? been working on it for OTS and GW1 GBs. yes i still intend to do the other 2

Wow, that is some impressive detailing there on the drive sprockets Terry. Don't blame you for leaving the covers off.

No it isnt, but I think detail like this makes the Trumpeter kit light years ahead of Dragons.

That is way cool Terry,

I wonder if that is on the 1:72 scale version.

One more shot, I can't help it. Look how deep the gear grooves go, i'm going to find a way of displaying it without a cover, maybe a couple mechanics kneeling down to grease it up?

I think thats a perfect way of doing it, i'm going to try a few things before I jump into it but I have a while yet.

How COOL is this sprocket...and its made to have a cover over it. Gives me a rash to even think about hiding it. Anyway some suspension and a lot of wheels on the main gun that measures out at about 13".

<a href="http://s1346.photobucket.com/user/kingtiger11/media/Karl%20Morser%20Trumpeter/DSC01908_zpsbrytb9fd.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p681/kingtiger11/Karl%20Morser%20Trumpeter/DSC01908_zpsbrytb9fd.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC01908_zpsbrytb9fd.jpg"/></a>

I've been trying the colour modulation thing- you start out dark and then gradually lighten the paint as you work your way up the model from the shadows like the trucks underneath into the sunlight like the top of the barrel. 

Terry i do that with Vallejo paints. get my base color in the airbrush and add a drop or two for a lighter bor darker color. the bottles are also droppers so it's real easy. i lightened the dark yellow on the K-5 and sprayed just overhead to give some contrast. the gun carraije will be slightly lighter and the gun will be slightly darker.

Wayne i'm going to use Tamiya german grey as my base then a mix of light grey and a blue to get my color, if it not right i'll add some white. I've used this combo before but not on such large panels and parts so we'll see. I'm saving the oils for pin washes and weathering. I like the idea of having all those shades in gray, one of those would certainly be right, but I like spraying either all Tamiya or MM, I dont think i've ever mixed them as final coats.

jibber

Wayne for a detective I sure miss a lot of things lately, but I'm going to paint everything German Grey but I plan on keeping the gun pretty clean while the carriages a bit dirtier and I'm going to modulate the paint a little. I've seen photos of these guns is pristine condition and "field rough" so I think i'll go for something in between. I would think with such large support personnel, they would keep these expensive pieces clean and operational.

Terry  

 

i agree with that. these mortars aen't always dirty and will be a nice change. i like color modulation. you using oils? i have a set of COMART acrylics, 10 shades of gray, i am going to try out on my TYPE XXVII

looking at rail cars around here it looks like the trucks just have an accumulation of road grime. i plan on doing the same thing with my dark yallow K-5. guess i best get back on it.

Wayne for a detective I sure miss a lot of things lately, but I'm going to paint everything German Grey but I plan on keeping the gun pretty clean while the carriages a bit dirtier and I'm going to modulate the paint a little. I've seen photos of these guns is pristine condition and "field rough" so I think i'll go for something in between. I would think with such large support personnel, they would keep these expensive pieces clean and operational.

Terry  

Thanks guys it is coming along ok, but still alot of parts left in that box...

Wayne thanks, I haven't forgotton those boxes after you mentioned it last build. I painted the hubs and journals a gloss black and then a coating of Chipping Fluid, then the grey top coat. I'm going to try removing a little grey material to show the shiny black to see how that looks then add a mixture I made up of black soot pigment mixed with some thick oil base. I tried that on some spare parts and it sure looks like a glob of grease/oil mix, I'm also going to use it sparingly on some other parts like the "O" ring on the floor of the carriage the 4 wheels ride on to pivot the superstructure mount etc. 

Sorry Wayne, the overall length of both carriages overall is about 27 inches (13.5 each) and the build will be at about 35/36 inches or so. That reminds me I need to start some track pretty soon.  

Thanks again and how about that Tomahawk....pretty cool. 

Terry

Terry  the rust on the wheels turned out nicely. are you going to keep the RR part gray and tghe mortar camoed? also don't forget to really oily black muck up the journal boxes. i was reminded of that with my gondola. they are always oozing grease and everything get stuck around them. how big is that thing?

Terry,

Oh man, that thing is really looking like something.

Hey Terry, the monster is really coming together now, nice work! 

Guys a quick update. I've painted and assembled the carriages minus all the finicky parts that I'll save for final assembly. Everything has fit nicely and the rail wheels all set evenly on the ground. I did start some detail painting on the undercarriage parts, springs wheels, etc but that too will be completed later when I do the final painting with some modulation and weathering. A few more things and i'm onto the main gun.

Steve I've been confused all summer, we'll keep on plugging away and see what we end up with.

Bruce the Tomahawk is really cool, didn't know they made one. I agree with Gamera, nice to see some different builds.

Terry