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RAF 100th Anniversay GB

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  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Tuesday, February 20, 2018 11:28 PM

Right, finally able to turn my attention to this one, a 1/48 RNAS Sopwith Camel:

Along with the Eduard kit, there is a trio of aftermarket  goodies, HGW lap belts, Barracuda wicker seats, and Gaspatch resin guns.

Photo above shows the improvement in quality over the Eduard parts found on the right side.   Eduard PE belts are ok, but they look to be the WW2 Sutton type, though maybe this style was introduced very late in the war?

... and have hardly started and already need to employ scratch building.  Five push rods broken (as pointed out with the red arrows), but just as well as they look oversize in diameter.  Will also need to change the piping behind the cylinders (those 9 arms sticking out of B14) as the RNAS Camels were powered by the Bentley BR1 engine:

Note the piping comes out the sides of the cylinders instead of the rear - I think Eduard's example is if the French Clerget 9B.

 

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, February 21, 2018 1:58 AM

Looking forward to seeing you do your stuff on this one Jack.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Wednesday, February 21, 2018 11:47 AM

Jack: Looks cool. I hate having to replace delicate parts like broken push rods. Looking forward to seeing how you deal with it. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Wednesday, February 21, 2018 12:58 PM

Looking forward to watching you build the Sopwith Camel, Jack.

You are a true modeler. Broken parts and no b*itching, just a plan to scratch/repair. Might you bottle a bit of that attitude and send it my way, please?

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Wednesday, February 21, 2018 1:29 PM

Thanks Bish, Cliff, and Greg.

I think I'm at the point that 'fixing' things has become the norm, which can be good and bad at the same time.

Wonder what actual diameter of those push rods are?  I'm thinking using 0.2mm tubes, translates to 9.6mm actual, which might still be a bit big, but next size rod I have is 0.1mm which probably is too small?

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, February 21, 2018 9:13 PM

Jack, I’m looking forward to watching how you build this one. 

After the primer dried, the next afternoon I figured a quick easy airbrush session to get on two basic colors, green and black. Unfortunately, I had some new learning curve difficulties with a recently obtained airbrush that threw me a curve and set me back a but. The tip came loose and did not have a good airtight seal, so my green was back splattering out of the cup and all over my PE stuff,,, well at least the IP. Which was no big deal I thought. Once I figured out the problem and corrected said problem, I was able to get the session done as intended for the most part... but then I got impatient to take photos and did not even think about any still wet globs of green and when I was taking the IP off the backing, I mushed up some of the wet green onto the front of the dry black... so I’ll have to do a quick reshoot of some black when I have time... 

 

Anyways here is how things look now...

 

 

 

And a test fit in place...

 

 

At least I can start the detail painting on the green areas...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Wednesday, February 21, 2018 11:11 PM

Thank you Stik.

Your build is coming along quite well.

 

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, February 21, 2018 11:33 PM

Thanks Jack. I have no complaints so far, this is a fun little kit. And I have been officially bitten by the Vampire bug. This plane is growing on me as I build and research along the way.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Thursday, February 22, 2018 1:55 AM

Coming on nicely Stik, you got plenty of weigh in the front tehre.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, February 22, 2018 2:43 AM

Thanks Bish. I’m just making sure on the weight. I had read that this kit requires a good amount there is no real way to do the nose weight later without major surgery...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, February 22, 2018 7:39 AM

stikpusher

Thanks Jack. I have no complaints so far, this is a fun little kit. And I have been officially bitten by the Vampire bug. This plane is growing on me as I build and research along the way.

 

Vampire bug

Doncha mean vampire bat??? 

 

Sorry couldn't resist there... 

Nice work on the nose weight, looks like she's full of fish roe! 

 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, February 22, 2018 10:34 AM

Jack, I forgot to mention I like the looks of the resin seats.

Stik, wow, re your airbrush probs, when it rains it pours, no? Whadja get?

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, February 22, 2018 12:20 PM

Greg

Stik, wow, re your airbrush probs, when it rains it pours, no? Whadja get?

 

 

Patrick206 here was most generous and gave me his old Badger 105 and 155. I was trying out the 155 on its second outing. Not really a pouring rain... more of a brief unexpected shower. I was so dialed into my last airbrush that I’m having to unlearn it all for this ones feel and quirks. Nothing bad, just different. And of course my own impatience on occasion...

 

Gamera, you’re a real comedian... Wink Bug... Bat... whatever it is, it bit me... 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, February 22, 2018 1:14 PM

Sorry, couldn't help myself there. 

 

Good luck with the new airbrush. It's a bit of a learning curve but you should have her mastered in no time. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, February 22, 2018 3:40 PM

stikpusher
Patrick206 here was most generous and gave me his old Badger 105 and 155. I was trying out the 155 on its second outing. Not really a pouring rain... more of a brief unexpected shower. I was so dialed into my last airbrush that I’m having to unlearn it all for this ones feel and quirks. Nothing bad, just different. And of course my own impatience on occasion...

Sounds great! I hear you getting used to something old and learning something new.

Patrick is a great guy, isn't he? I'm glad to hear you two are in touch.

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Thursday, February 22, 2018 3:53 PM

Another WWI fighter - they always make me feel lazy as I've only built one and have two very neat 1/32s in my stash. Biplanes have a "wow" factor that can only be matched by top notch ship on a good base. Both bipes and ships seem to attract fans that do them exclusively and have super websites. Modelwarship is an excellent resource. I'd have to say that my favorite modeling website is Des Latorre's ww1aircraftmodels.com. The normal site is well worth a visit - if you need humbling. Each of Des' personal kits have been accompanied by a video build - a third are scratch. (Everything is 1/32). There are very neat tutorials on rigging, turnbuckles, scratch building and a very nice list of recommendations for the biplane beginner. I first went on it when it was just starting and Des was incredibly helpful. Now the forum has grown greatly and is both helpful and filled with astounding kits. (Some of the forum models are in mortal human range: the good ones are jaw-dropping.) BTW: the kit I did was the Academy/Hobbycraft 1/32 Camel. It is new tool 1990 and there were fine kits made then. Italeri has reboxed the Camel and a Nieuport 17: not WingNut quality perhaps, but also only cost $20. 

 

Stynelrez deserves its good reputation. What sets it apart from other acrylic primers is its ability to be sanded without stripping off (which Vallejo primer does readily unless dried a long time). And it lays down very nicely. Not sure how they do it. Lacquer primers kind of bond to the plastic which accounts for the excellent protection of detail. I use Stynelrez for armor, Duplicolor for aircraft.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    March 2012
  • From: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posted by mustang1989 on Friday, February 23, 2018 6:18 PM

Nice work on that camo Greg. Came out very well man.

                   

 Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com) 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Friday, February 23, 2018 9:04 PM

mustang1989
Nice work on that camo Greg. Came out very well man

Well, look who stopped in!

Thank you, Joe. It's always a treat to hear from you, buddy.

  • Member since
    March 2017
Posted by Armor_Aficionado on Saturday, February 24, 2018 4:56 PM

Alright, well I’ve still got a lot of work to do on the Hurricane, and I havecyet to assemble the ground crew figures, but my Battle of Britain diorama is starting to come together:

https://pin.it/55zz5eeo5aeiyw

 

  • Member since
    January 2016
  • From: Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada
Posted by iSteve on Saturday, February 24, 2018 7:46 PM

Here's my latest update.

Buttoned up the tub without really any issues, which was a nice change from my Mk. IV. The IP and frame snapped into place and I just needed to trim the small tab at the bottom a bit. A couple of dabs of Tamiya Extra Thin glue sealed it in place along with the firewall.

Before I could add the seat, I needed to build seat belts using HGW's "fabric" seat belts.

This will be the third and last time I will be using these seat belts. When I first came across them I thought they were probably the best looking seat belts you could buy. While they do look good, they are truly a pain to put together. I lost a couple of PE parts (which can happen and is not necessarily particular to this kit), but thankfully had spares. I first used thin CA glue but it tends to run everywhere but where you want it to go. So, I tried thick CA, but the damn stuff wouldn't stick. Finally, I used LePage's Ultra Gel CA and it did the job - at least as well as I could do it.

To me, they look like someone made a valiant effort to make a facsimile of seat belts, but what I'm actually striving for are seat belts that look like they belong on a Spitfire. I have Eduard's 1/48 early Spitfire Mk. IXc ProfilPACK kit which comes with Eduard's coloured PE seat belts and they look excellent. I've seen other builds using these belts and they look great without having to go through the arduous process of the kind of assembly the HGW belts require - and don't look like someone struggled for days putting them together. Which I did.

After gluing the oxygen tank into place, I inserted the seat and the rear bulkhead frame that literally just snapped into place. I didn't bother with glue it fit so well. I then affixed the cockpit tub to the fuselage. I test fitted the tub before gluing with both fuselage halves to determine where it should meet the first wall. The alignment to the wall was slightly off, but would not be noticeable once it was all buttoned up.

The result was a nice, clean fit. However, the saddle for the fuel tank sat too proud of the rest of the fuselage and required some grinding away on the inside of the saddle and the top of the IP.

In the end, it settled in and I used Tamiya Extra Thin glue first on one side, then the other. It distorted the saddle at the join a bit on the starboard side, but I'm just chalking it up to a dent in the metal during servicing.

Before putting the wing halves together, I primed again with black gloss Stynylrez and Alclad aluminum.

The next step was to put in the clear beacon, so i first lay down some of the bottom colour. This allows me to mask it easier when I cover the bottom completely. I bought some Mr. Color Aqueous paints, which have a bigger range than Tamiya and would not require any mixing. This is the first time I've tried this line of paints and I was very happy with the results. It went down beautifully without any thinning, not did I prime first. I will eventually prime to check for gaps, etc. with Stynylrez gray.

I had some orange left over from my Eagle build I made with Tamiya yellow and red and used it for the beacon. I used Testors glue for clear parts to hold it in place.

More to come...

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Vancouver, the "wet coast"
Posted by castelnuovo on Saturday, February 24, 2018 11:17 PM

Well, here is the interior. Nothing particular about it, have a good look as once the sides and the top is on it wan't be visible :-I

  • Member since
    January 2016
  • From: Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada
Posted by iSteve on Sunday, February 25, 2018 12:25 AM

jgeratic

Right, finally able to turn my attention to this one, a 1/48 RNAS Sopwith Camel:

Along with the Eduard kit, there is a trio of aftermarket  goodies, HGW lap belts, Barracuda wicker seats, and Gaspatch resin guns.

Photo above shows the improvement in quality over the Eduard parts found on the right side.   Eduard PE belts are ok, but they look to be the WW2 Sutton type, though maybe this style was introduced very late in the war?

... and have hardly started and already need to employ scratch building.  Five push rods broken (as pointed out with the red arrows), but just as well as they look oversize in diameter.  Will also need to change the piping behind the cylinders (those 9 arms sticking out of B14) as the RNAS Camels were powered by the Bentley BR1 engine:

Note the piping comes out the sides of the cylinders instead of the rear - I think Eduard's example is if the French Clerget 9B.

 

regards,

Jack

Really looking forward to your build Jack. I have Eduard's 1/48 Sopwith F.1 Camel RFC and haven't the courage to touch it because of the tiny, delicate parts. I've bought a bunch of Wingnut Wings 1/32 planes as the larger scale will offset the challenges of rigging and some of the eccentricities of WWI aircraft, but I had bought Eduard' Camel and Fokker Dr. I first without considering what I was getting into. I have the WNW "Clerget" Camel and will be building Barker's bird.

  • Member since
    January 2016
  • From: Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada
Posted by iSteve on Sunday, February 25, 2018 12:45 AM

BTW Greg, is that the Hasegawa 1/48 Typhoon Ib with tear drop canopy?

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, February 25, 2018 3:54 AM

The Dio is shapeing up nicely AA.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, February 25, 2018 3:57 AM

Steve, coming along very nice, nice fix on the saddle.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, February 25, 2018 3:58 AM

castel, nice work. Will be a shame to have that shut away.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Naples, FL
Posted by tempestjohnny on Sunday, February 25, 2018 10:53 AM

The green is on. Was looking through some old pics.  This kit has been on my shelf of doom for almost 8 years. Can't wait to finish

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, February 25, 2018 11:05 AM

Looks good Johnny.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Sunday, February 25, 2018 12:06 PM

iSteve

BTW Greg, is that the Hasegawa 1/48 Typhoon Ib with tear drop canopy?

 

As far as i know, it is the Eduard rebox of that kit, yes. I wonder, can you explain to me what the teardrop in teardrop canopy actually refers to? There is a part at the top of the canopy that goes unused in the version I am building and it sure looks like a teardrop now you mention it!

Nice WIP update you posted there, Steve. Looking good.

Johnny, green looks good.

Castel, cockpit looking good.

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Sunday, February 25, 2018 12:46 PM

Greg, I think the reference to teardrop canopy is probably the bubble shape one that allowed better view for the pilot?

AA, like the dio subject, nice top view there.

castel, good job on the walrus interior.

TJ, excellent looking camou on the mossie

Steve, thanks, and you are doing a great job on that Airfix Spitfire.   Belts look good, but a bit concerned about how my HGW product will turn out as I keep seeing negative comments about them.  As for rigging I don't mind the work, but it is much easier to grasp when you have the specifics like where the wires are attached and also the type of attachement points.

regards,

Jack

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