Ships of the British Flag GB.

Thanks modelcrazy..., and 1/600 P.E.? good luck, not for me Bish...

Continuing with my build, here are some more of the P.E. assemblies

swapping the kit 40mm plastic barrels for the brass ones (they even have a hole at the end, about the size of a pin tip). It was very small work, but they look much better than the kit. The Xacto knife is there to show scale.

Here they are completed:

And these are the quad pom-poms with thier P.E.. Looks like one of the sights got bent, I will fix that prior to final assembly.

I am not looking forward to the P.E. masts and radar 

Ben

Those barrels and Pom Poms look fantastic Ben.

DRUMS01

I am not looking forward to the P.E. masts and radar 

I stop at the radar di-poles

I hate myself... and this kit too!.... 

Just kidding, but so far I've managed to booger up the PE for both of the rear range finders and some of the hand rail around them. And yes, that includes both the kit and after-market PE parts that replaced them . I ended up spending 4 hours on the range finders alone because of loosing parts shooting off the trees, loosing PE pieces, finding bent PE peices and working to straighten them, walking away from all of it, going back and messing it up more, finding some of the wee tiny pieces that shot off the trees, walking away from it all (again), coming back and salvaging what I could from them.  The problem with it all being in one spot is that it stands out even more . I hope I got the PE meltdown behind me now..... If not, at least I have identified one of my modeling limitations ... I may try to scratch build my own arrays for the range finders (can't get any worse)....

I've managed to get the remainder of the PE and parts added to the main deck successfully (yippee!). If anyone watching has ever built a similar Trumpter kit, you know that what I am about to say is true. Many, and I mean MANY of the parts, including much of the PE, could've been molded as one piece of plastic versus a front, back, top, and PE face, all combined being 1/8 inch in size. And lets not forget trying to add cross hair gun sights to 1/350 scale guns , etc.. Some of the doors are molded on the plastic while others are PE to be glued (near the ones that are molded(??). Some storage boxes have the doors and hinge molded on while others require separate PE faces to show the door detail. I could also go on and talk about the 1/4" sprue connectors that are holding a 1/32" part (?).... but I will leave it alone .

On the up side of things, I think that all of the PE on the various gun assemblies are done too. I am leaving them off until the main painting is done. I may also want to detail paint some of the guns to bring out the PE as well. 

I am coming to the conclusion that between my eyesight and unsteady hands, this is a little much for me. Not one to accept defeat, I will push on and finish her to the best of my ability. Photos soon I hope, ....wish me luck....

Ben 

I feel you Ben. At least you didn't break the gun director radar screen and it's attaching gizmos, off the kit's housing, letting it fall to the floor, where it lands behind the wheel of your chair where you squash it like a pancake when you roll back to find it, like I did on and American ship. All part of the fun is model ship building. At least YOU finished the Pom Pom's 

Ben> Having seen your skill you'll ace the PE with flying colors!  Or build it from scratch!  Great work!

Gary

Ben, lovely work on those guns. But soiunds like your not having much fiun with the PE. But we know youcan pull it off.

Here is what I had to work with after the fiasco mentioned in the previous thread:

And here is my scratch made replacement. I hope that once painted, they will be hardly noticable. (Pay no attention to the bent hand railing, I already fixed it). You can also see the wood deck that I added (still to be stained/washed).

More photos soon....

Ben

Nice save, no one will ever know. 

I feel I have to post something even though it is not conclusive...

Here is the main deck and subassemblies of the super structures with some base coats and beginning of detail painting. I am possibly thinking of a dry brush effect over the structures (like what is shown on the main turret. If I do that it should provide the necessary contrast to the darker main deck. Let me know what you think?

I also painted the hull with the gray and hull red base coats (picture coming soon).

Since everyone that I have seen built this kit with the Normandy camouflage, I am deciding on something different. I have the colors when A) she was launched, B) the camo used at Normandy, and C) the light gray used in the Mediterranian and until retirement. 

Again, let me know what you think of the dry brushing idea? My other option would be to darken the decks with a combination of sea blue and gunship gray (?). Personally I kind of like the dry brushing as it brings the details to life, but I also worry that it may be too much (?)

And this is the scheme I am most likely going after (lighter on the turret with white upper structure and top of rear masts)

Comments are encouraged...

Ben

Ben

It's hard to over do weathering on a ship in hard use active service. The sea, wind,  salt air and the constant battering of men in battle took/takes a toll on paint and decks quickly. I've never tried airbrushing on a ship but I'll bet it'll work just fine.

My ship weathering media of choice is oils, but I'd be interested in seeing how it turns out. I might have to add another technique to my ship weathering toolbox.

I used to drybrush a lot, but then found it was easy to overscale the weathering, especially with soot and chipped paint.  For the last few projects, I have drybrushed pastels that I have ground up and mixed myself.  These are easier to manage and go on very light, so I can add more layers if needed and if they go on too heavy, blow them off with the airbrush and start over.  The pastels will get sealed with the final topcoat. 

Scottrc, 

Thanks for that reminder as I use pastels often as well. I agree that is is more forgiving, but I may just try the dry brush for the initial contrast and then fine tune with pastels.

Thanks again....

Ben

Phase 1 of painting and dry brushing of basic components. I repainted the decks with a mix of the gunship gray and black. It looks much closer to the color sources. 

Here you can also see the painted hull with red, the water line, and base dry brush. The final phase will have rust, selected dark washes, and pastel work done.

Rear view which also shows the HACS that I created (to replace the PE that I boogered up). 

At this point all of the pieces are just fitted and not glued. Much, much more to do on this one. From what I have seen, the radar / antenna masts will be a challenge and I may use brass or aluminum like some others have.

Till next time.

Ben

My phone won't let me zoom too much but what I see look pretty good. Are you planning on oils as well?

modelcrazy, I was not planning on it, but they do make great rust and weathering....

Since this is my first ship in many, many years, I may just try them too...

Ben

 Looking good Ben

Give the oils a try, they are fun to work with and add contrast that other mediums don't seem to provide. 

Not alot to show, but there is considerable time involved with the PE and painting.

Here is a nearly completed quad pom-pom (not attached, still more pastel to detail). You can also see the life rafts painted, washed, dry brushed, and attached as well. Touch-up cleaning and painting still to do...

The colors look strange because of the flash needed to get the rudders and props. This was a very easy assembly. You can also see a slightly rusty rear anchor.

Here are the PE pieces attached to the main structures (including the stairs). You can also see some of the base washes I started. My thought was that I needed to get to some of the washing before the remaining widgets are attached or else it is too difficult to reach all of it. This photo also shows a good comparison between the after-market PE (the straight stuff) and the kit PE (the bent hand rail up by the HCAS turrets). If I can find a way, I am going to replace the kit hand rail up at the HCAS.

Thats it for now..... the masts are looming next 

Ben

That is really looking like something now Drums. The Pom Poms are looking perfect.

Thanks modelcrazy...

Not much to show but here is a little that was done.

The rear mast has been built. I cannot explain why Trumpter decided to make the cross mast on the upper portion separate when it would've been just as easy to combine both parts (?). Since there was no indent or ribs, there was no way to be sure of the exact location; it was all "eyeball" method for location and being square. After it was done, it appears close enough for me.

Along with the rear mast, I also replaced the handrail up by the HCAS.

Starting on the bridge and front mast (more photos upon near completion of the assembly)

Also starting on the clean-up of the wash and shading the maingun canvas.

Till next time.

Ben

That's some fine PE work Ben.

 Really great job, Ben. It looks like you have patience and a steady hand.  

Thanks guys... patience: most always; steady hand: sometimes......

Now that I am starting to see the end results (at least in my head), the build is getting more enjoyable.

Ben

Ship builds, especially 1/350 can be to daunting and take so long that you really have to have a vision and keep sight on it otherwise it turns into a shelf queen. 

In fact, because of that is why the GB is so long.

So anyone who signs up and starts within the 2 year time frame will have as long as they need to finish.

Moving forward, here is the front star structure above the lantern (11 pieces) which will hold the main observation platform. 

After looking closer at the rear mast assembly, I noticed that the front legs were not long enough to get around the handrails and steps to the main deck while still keeping the rear third leg of the rear master square with the rest of the ship. It also affected how the platforms on the rear mast as they were no longer parrellel to the main deck and were now tilted back with the fronts up in the air (unacceptible). My solution was to remove (un-glue) the rear mast assembly from the maindeck, tear it apart, and replace the front legs with brass. The triangular cross bracing is very small plastic. Here it is with the rework almost finished. In this picture you can also see the finished wood on the HCAS deck (the only wood deck on the ship).

If someone else is going to build this ship I would recommend they add the three masts to the decks first, then the cross bracing, and last the mast platforms. That should ensure they are square and parrellel as they should be. I would also leave the stairs off until the three legs of the mast are done.

I also promised an up to date photo of the main mast with the lantern house and observation platform, etc. As previously mentioned I am painting her in a specific period camouflage; here is the initial results (prior to detail painting and weathering). To get the round lantern house and the round guardrail above the observation platform I rolled the brass on specific sized brass tubing from my spares box.

Something funny.... After thinking that sprue "B" was empty, I threw it away only to find that the two bracing masts which support the star structure and observation platform were still on it (now long gone) . Once again I used brass (no problem ). I used the after-market star structure to support the main observation platform. For whatever reason, the after-market star structures lower supports are larger than the kit pieces. This made the start structure lay directly on the lantern house (not good). My solution was to cut sheet plastic to use as spacers. I fit them under the star structure, between the braces (out of sight). I am overall happy with the results; except the mast ladders (to short) which I will replace with spares.

Some of you will notice that I did not add the antenna arrays to the front and back masts. I will do that as one of the last things because they are VERY fragile. Now its time to detail the other guns and the boats...

Till next time.

Ben

Dang Ben I'm really liking your build. It's coming together nicely with all that great PE detail. Also it's something you don't see modeled too often, very cool 

Ben,

I have to say you are doing truely a fantastic job. I understand you may be having some issues, but, it's not showing in this build. Your PE work is really impressive, as well as your build and weathering techniques. 

And, this ship is a really cool subject. I've been interested in these monitors, but, now after seeing your build, I may have to pick one up.

Gentleman,

I have a general question about mast lines. I've heard recently that EZ-line tends to break after a few years? I bought some, but haven't attempted to use it yet.

So, what are you using for mast lines? 

Nice job Ben. Like was said, your PE work is very impressive. I really like the way your weathering came out as well.

Bruce. I'm not a fan of EZ line. I know several people have great results with it but it's too fickle to temp changes for me. My main go to is streched sprue but that also has it faults, several of them.
I purchased some stuff called Uschi. It's a little pricy and I haven't used it yet, but it is extreamly elastic and watching some YouTube vids on it, it looks very easy to apply. My only complaint with it so far, which shouldn't be a complaint, is that it is very small. That makes it more to scale but harder to see.

Far from done as there is still around 40 plastic and 75 P.E. pieces to add. Here is where I called it quits for today. I think it is finally starting to look like a war ship, do you?

In this photo. if you look close, you can see the P.E. rudder/tillers I added to the life boats. The open slot is for the captians (ship to shore) boat (still working on her).