Ships of the British Flag GB.

Flag Halyards.

Looks great Griffin, I've never had luck with ezline but it looks like I need to give it another try.

It ain't no British ship without the Jack!

Get some planes on that flattop and bring her into port. 

She looks real nice Griuffin, all ready for the S Atlantic.

Ok my first try at the Harriers didn't work to well. I tried to mask and ab the white bottom side. Bad. Real bad. Then I went to the lhs and bought MM white in enamel because it covers better in the white and hand brushed the bottom. It came out pretty good. I used super thin wash of sand color to bring out the panel lines. I also used all the decals so I'm going to have to figure something out for the helicopters. I used the Harriers the kit came with. Only 4 but I'll use at least 6 helicopters to take up more deck space.

 

They have come out well Griffin. I remember painting the aircraft on my 1/600 HMS Victorious and they didn't have decals. My hat off to you.

Just a short update. I got the few bts of PE added and then a coat of primer and a couple of coats on Tamiya gloss black.

Now ready to get the decals on.

Very cool Bish. Its hard to see the detail with the gloss black on it. Are you going to finish it in flat? 

Bish, I finally got everything for my Monitor build! I will be posting photos soon...

PS: Ship bilding is something new for me, this will not be a fast build...

v/r,

Ben

That's great Ben! I'll be looking forward to it. Ships are built diffrent than armor and planes but you're still gluing plastic to plastic. Who knows, they may become one of your favorite things to build.

Well, I could not find anything at the model show I went to, so I broke down and started looking on-line.  Being a novice at the war ship building genre, I hope I didn't make a mistake....I got the Tamiya 1/700 King George the V kit.  Hoping it's not too small for these old eyes.  LOL!

It will be just fine Eagle. I have the same kit and It's not too difficult or small for our old eyes. Tamiya made it just right, as well as most of their old waterline kits.

I'll be returning to Dallas tomorrow and will get back on the POW as soon as I settle back in.

Griffin25

Very cool Bish. Its hard to see the detail with the gloss black on it. Are you going to finish it in flat? 

 

Cheers Griffin. Its not quite as bad in the flesh, but yes, the black does hide some of the detail.

I wanted to try and replucate the tiled pattern on these boats. I saw a build after doing a google search and the guy did a coat of flat gloss, then partly masked it and then added a clear flat coat. So i thought i might try that. Added a nice bit of variation and i am not up to try weathering in such a small scale.

Thanks Steve, going to get on with those decals today.

Pity about not being able to sail but lovely pics, hopefully you will be able to go out on her at some point.

modelcrazy

It will be just fine Eagle. I have the same kit and It's not too difficult or small for our old eyes. Tamiya made it just right, as well as most of their old waterline kits.

I'll be returning to Dallas tomorrow and will get back on the POW as soon as I settle back in.

 

Thanks!  I figured you can't go wrong with Tamiya.  LOL!  Man....there are some small parts on them sprues!!!    I'm going to have to rethink how I get them off the sprues.  Sawing motion with a very sharp knife?  Any suggestions will be appreciated. 

I've always used spruce cutters. Sawing works too. Just don't pin the tree down and try the ole cut the piece off with the Xacto blade trick....POING off it goes and you'll never find it.  Try matching a lifeboat or an AA gun from another kit, or try to find and AM replacement for that scale. 

Don't ask.

Try to leave a little sprue attached to the part, then sand or carefully whittle it down to where you can slice off whats left with a razor blade.

I often work with my hands in a box or at least try to minimize where the part can go hide.

modelcrazy

I've always used spruce cutters. Sawing works too. Just don't pin the tree down and try the ole cut the piece off with the Xacto blade trick....POING off it goes and you'll never find it.  Try matching a lifeboat or an AA gun from another kit, or try to find and AM replacement for that scale. 

Don't ask.

 

Thank you for the advice....that makes a lot of sense.  No POING...got it.  LOL!  I must admit ,it does seem a little scary for me.  But, hey, I've done other genres and it worked out good.  Time to step it up and get out of the comfort zone!   

Thanks again!

GMorrison

Try to leave a little sprue attached to the part, then sand or carefully whittle it down to where you can slice off whats left with a razor blade.

I often work with my hands in a box or at least try to minimize where the part can go hide.

 

Thank you for the advice...great stuff.  The box idea is great.  Think I'll pull a bigger one from my past builds and use it.  I have tons of them laying around...I use them for parts and painting.

Thanks again!

Bish I think I know what you mean about the tile pattern. That sounds like a great idea. It will look boss. I got the helicopters done. I had to paint the rounders because I didn't have any decals left and they are Sooo small. It came out ok. I used the Amercan Sikorsky version of the Sea King and by Trumpeter. Next the deck tractors. 

 

Very cool.

I hope so Griffin, the one i saw looked nice. Will take some time to mask but not like i am in a rush.

Nice job on the helo's, those 5 could be doing a flypast in that shot.

Hey Bish, I didn't know you went to Italy. I was stationed on Lampadusa in the Med back in 89. Did you make it to Sicily or Rome?

After returning to Dallas on Sunday I finally sat down to work more on the POW hull weathering. I sprayed some light gray in streaks to fade the paint and used dark grey for the chipping, Vallejo Rust texture and oils for the rust. Most of the starboard side won't bee seen because of the bow wave and she will be heaving to starboard during the turn to port.

Next I add the PE to the deck fittings and weather that area before moving to the superstructure.

Your weathering effects look real good 

Steve, neither, Bay of Napels this year. Stayed in Pompei and went to the ruins there. We did take a trip up Versuvius but the top was closed due to high winds. We did see the ruins of Herculanium and had a day out in Sorento. We went to Rome last year. Its quite handy as its only a 2 hour flight so worthwhile making the trip for a few days. I wouold not mind Scicily, but i think pur next trip will be Greece.

Lovely work on the hull. I have seen people say its not worth doing weathering at this scale because its easy to over due. Well you have disproved that. It looks really effective.

Hey Steve,

Like others are saying, good job on that weathering.  Its hard to get that look of rust popping out from under the paint without it looking out of scale.

What are your thoughts on how your going to be weathering the deck?

Scott

I have been away from the bench due to being asked to play percussion for the community theater production of Tom Saywer.  Its been six weeks, four shows, and its now over and I might have some evenings free to work on the Warsprite.

I opened it up and started my production planning last night and over my lunch hour.  

My goal is to have it complete by November 11th in celebration of the end of WW1.

Thanks gentlemen.

I was looking at the only color picture of the POW I could find and there is a little more I need to do. The rust is fine but there's other chipping that looks present.

Scott, I didn't know ole Tom was a musical . The Warspite is going to look great. I've been looking at the 42 Warspite but the 15 would be fine too.

I'm not sure for the deck weathering yet but I will probably add some light pastels like I did for the Prinz Eugen build a couple years back.

Any idea what wood was used on the POW?  Being at sea and weatherbeaten, one would guess it would a dull grey/tan or brown depending on what wood it was.

I'm kinda going through the drama of deciding colors.  Dark sea gray and deck tan is what the instructions recommend,  which is quite vague.  Kinda boring paint job.

I started building last night and learned a whole new element about Trumpeter builds.  That is putting photo etch over a pre-molded plastic deck housing.  Sure looks easy.

Until I actually tried it.  Only two hours of trying to get a photo ected part that was scaled 1:1 to fit around an injected molded part without taking into account a 1 degree draft angle and a -.003" shrink tolerance.  Oh, and needed to use fine super glue and accerator without gluing to the part a body part, tweezers, or suffering from asphyxiation.  I applied both with a toothpick and que-tip.

This was a fun new experience that I must try again, in 1/350 scale!

This kit was also like the Prinz Eugen in that the fit between mating parts was bad due to the part guides were to large, probably due to shrink tolerances scaled for a 1/350 kit.  But I was smart this time did a lot trim/fit/adjust before applying the glue.  

I'm thinking it's teak but can't be for sure. I know we used teak and I can only assume the British did the same. Yeah, it would have a grayish hue after sun, salt and wear, unless the swabbies were stoning the deck on a regular basis.

Fun with PE. I've seen it used like that before but they were AM. The only other Trumpy ship I built was the 1/350 Prinz