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"Dirty Robot" group build April 3rd - May 3rd 2020

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  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Central Texas
Posted by NucMedTech on Thursday, April 9, 2020 4:21 PM

Real G, much is the case with the Gouf and panel lines, except for the shoulders. Those come split in half with the split going up the horns. I am surprised Bandai went that route instead of making the horns a seperate solid piece.

Stephen

Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, April 9, 2020 11:12 AM

Robotism

 

 
Gamera

BadLanguage & Stephen: Ohhhhhhhh those look cool guys! Really like how they're coming. 

Real-G: Inspire or intimidate??? Wow, I have to wonder how people do stuff like that, it blows me away. 

 

 

 

 

Doctor Faust made a video with pretty similar weathering which isn't that hard to achieve. I want to know how people are adding all the rivet detail.

 

 

Ah cool- thanks! I'll give it a look when I get home.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2019
Posted by Robotism on Thursday, April 9, 2020 9:09 AM

Gamera

BadLanguage & Stephen: Ohhhhhhhh those look cool guys! Really like how they're coming. 

Real-G: Inspire or intimidate??? Wow, I have to wonder how people do stuff like that, it blows me away. 

 

 

Doctor Faust made a video with pretty similar weathering which isn't that hard to achieve. I want to know how people are adding all the rivet detail.

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, April 9, 2020 8:40 AM

BadLanguage & Stephen: Ohhhhhhhh those look cool guys! Really like how they're coming. 

Real-G: Inspire or intimidate??? Wow, I have to wonder how people do stuff like that, it blows me away. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2019
Posted by Robotism on Thursday, April 9, 2020 7:27 AM

Real G

 

That is the exact style I've been trying to figure out for a while now. I haven't quite figure it out but I will sooner or later!! Not on this build though, I don't think it would suit the Woundwart. I'm not sure what weathering would suit it..

 

Bad language, the mono eyes looking nice. If there's not a plastic cover for the eye, or a third party option you have then maybe try a badger ghost tint (Games workshop do similar things) over the lens would give it a good look? It's become my go to Gem colouring and it makes eye lenses pop.

Nuc, you're making me wonder how many of us are going to post only arm and torso pictures.. I'm not sure on the Gouf but a lot of MG panel connections are where they are on the design too, if you get short on time some of them can be left and panel lined like the kit indents. Looking forward to seeing how you weather it, desert wearing is really cool. Be careful with the pre-weathering solutions though. I had a sand one I tried on a HGUC and it became brittle and fell apart because it reacted with plastic.

  • Member since
    April 2011
  • From: Silver Spring, MD
Posted by badlanguage on Wednesday, April 8, 2020 10:24 PM

Real G

 

Consider me inspired!!

 

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Central Texas
Posted by NucMedTech on Wednesday, April 8, 2020 6:10 PM

That is an awesome build of the Kampfer, it sure does give you ideas. Thanks for sharing.

Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Wednesday, April 8, 2020 4:35 PM

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    April 2011
  • From: Silver Spring, MD
Posted by badlanguage on Wednesday, April 8, 2020 11:56 AM

I'm liking that Obsidian Fury!

 

I've done a bit of work on the Zaku but it's a bit slow going. I've been addressing seams and parting lines while I've been going, and also priming and painting as I've thought necessary as well. Here are a couple pics;

 

Monoeye:

Odds n ends:

Hopefully I'll get this thing moving along...

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Wednesday, April 8, 2020 11:41 AM

Ohhhhh, that looks cool Hypertex! Complex but she's gonna look awesome done! 

 

On the other hand I picked Obsidian Fury just because I'm bogged down and wanted something cheap, quick, and dirty! 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    October 2010
Posted by hypertex on Wednesday, April 8, 2020 11:26 AM

Nice progress, Gamera. My Paladin is a little behind because it is a complex kit. Check out all of these clear parts

There a bunch of windows on various parts that are to remain clear. Gonna take a bit of work to mask those off.

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Wednesday, April 8, 2020 7:30 AM

Thanks! Hmm, does remind me of a xenomorph now that you mention it. Maybe it's due to the alien technology incorporated in the design?

The only putty I used on the model is the little dab you can see on the chest- he's not primed- what you see is what you get. This is the best friggin' model I've ever built fit- wise. All the seams fall on natural lines so there's really nothing to putty and sand. 

I'm going to order some Kynar wire and some black chrome paint- I thought I had some, it must have dried up and been tossed. After wiring him I'm going to paint, hopefully (cross your fingers) no issues there. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2019
Posted by Robotism on Tuesday, April 7, 2020 10:56 PM

Real G

 Robotism

Is that yellow piping what you're talking about G? I really want to find a Zaku pipe solution. I have a MG HM Zaku I'm really wanting to build but then I remember the pipe rings and it stays unopened. I got sick of those on the Sazabi.

 

Yes, that's the Kynar wire.  However, for a 1/100 scale kit, I think it would be too fine for power cables.  I too have searched for a good looking substitute, but so far have no answer.  Adler's Nest made precut plastic rings, but they don't really look good when used on a spring or wire.  You really need something spherical sandwiched between the rings.  Plus some angled rings to accomodate bends are needed.

 

 
There is probably some really basic cable out there which flexs great and looks just right but we haven't stumbled across it yet.
 
That's looking great Gamera, I didn't expect it to be so sleak, in black it reminds me of a Xenomorph. Does te face need any putty work before painting or is it fine going on after everythings done?
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, April 7, 2020 8:17 PM

In any case Obsidian Fury is complete except for the 'face' parts. I was worried I'd lose them as they're small so I've left them off.

The kit is snap-fit without cement so I can pull him back apart to place the LEDs and wires inside.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, April 7, 2020 8:14 PM

Cool, I looked around online and saw a couple of places with Kynar wire for sale. I'm going to see about picking some up later this week. THANKS!!!

And here's Obsidian Fury with the original wire in place. I think the Kynar will work much better:

And the LED set Bandai sells for lighting Gundam kits- it won't fit this kit.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Tuesday, April 7, 2020 5:54 PM

Robotism

Is that yellow piping what you're talking about G? I really want to find a Zaku pipe solution. I have a MG HM Zaku I'm really wanting to build but then I remember the pipe rings and it stays unopened. I got sick of those on the Sazabi.

Yes, that's the Kynar wire.  However, for a 1/100 scale kit, I think it would be too fine for power cables.  I too have searched for a good looking substitute, but so far have no answer.  Adler's Nest made precut plastic rings, but they don't really look good when used on a spring or wire.  You really need something spherical sandwiched between the rings.  Plus some angled rings to accomodate bends are needed.

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    July 2019
Posted by Robotism on Tuesday, April 7, 2020 1:16 PM

Is that yellow piping what you're talking about G? I really want to find a Zaku pipe solution. I have a MG HM Zaku I'm really wanting to build but then I remember the pipe rings and it stays unopened. I got sick of those on the Sazabi.

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Tuesday, April 7, 2020 12:54 PM

Gamera,

Radio Shack used to sell something called Kynar wire, which was a fine plated copper wire with a thin plastic insulation.  A friend gave me a roll back in high school, and I have had some in the supply box ever since then.  The last time I was able to buy it at the store was at Frys in Oregon, when I was visiting the friend who gave me the original roll!

This is what the wire looks like used off the roll, coiled around another wire, and painted:

It's actual use was for prototyping boards, so it can be used to power LEDs.  They are fine diameter, so you might be able to run them to the back of the head without too much trouble.

 

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, April 7, 2020 12:01 PM

Robotism: That is good advice! I need to find some smaller wire though. I know I have some somewhere - it's just a question of finding it. Darn Radio Shack being out of business, if they were still around I'd just grab another roll of wire... 

Robotism and Real G: Those look good guys, helps me to get my motor in gear... 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2019
Posted by Robotism on Monday, April 6, 2020 5:57 PM

Chinas been hunting them down the last year or so but they tend to be really nice designs... that build like a swine. I was researching it earlier for poses and I found the photo novel features one in full Titans black/blue/purple and I might do with that scheme. It looks a bit weird because it's just the base for them to slap other stuff on. Which is probably why it got a P bandai kit to go with all the AoZ add on parts last year. Got a cameo in build fighters and is in Gundam breaker 3's DLC, and I think it's in the actual AoZ manga so I might be able to find some nice shots. I'm thinking I'll make it a static model not posable and if the manga has a good shot I'll copy it.

There's always room for space stowage. You might not need a sleeping bag but you can might need a space spanner or a space hammer!

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Monday, April 6, 2020 5:49 PM

Robotism,

No stowage on the Space Piggy - they operate out of spacecraft or a base, so they don't need to carry a sleeping bag!  Stick out tongue  I believe the suits in MaK are designed for short-duration sorties, not for drawn-out engagements.

Kind of interesting how the non-licensed Asian kit makers do Gundam stuff that Bandai doesn't get around to doing.  Makes Bandai look lazy.  The Woundwort is from "Advance of Zeta", which had its origins in Dengeki Hobby magazine.  They sure have a different "look" to them - I sometimes can't tell where the head or heinie are!

I acquired two sets of metric drills that grade in 0.05mm sizes that I use to bore out the snap fit sockets on my kits.  It really saves on busted fingers!

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    July 2019
Posted by Robotism on Monday, April 6, 2020 5:34 PM

The piggy is looking great. Are you going to add some stowage to the back? That extended back would really suit it.

Gamera, can you drill a hole in the neck peg and thread the wires into the chest for lighting it? If you can block the under side of the head it's probably a 20 minute job with a dremel.

I finished Wondwart's arms tonight and ended up stabbing myself in the thumb because every single peg is too tight. It's like the pegs were designed in a computer with zero tolerance for insertion. Have to open up the female part and often shave down the male peg. After 3 hours of peg sharpening the knife slipped and I called it a night. Every piece of the arm has nasty gaps down the center so I can see a lot of putty work being needed and awkward cleaning it up. I don't mind it being a bit of a pig (pun intended) because the group build becomes motivation to get the kit done. I'm going to do some surgery on a few parts to make them easier to connect. The shoulder wings are really difficult to put together and making the wing split from the box and gluing it in place later is the way to go. The hands are very jacky 80's all plastic hands, I would replace them but I don't have anything suitable. Hoping the open hand ones look better.

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Monday, April 6, 2020 4:48 PM

The Space Piggy commences:

I must finish the Zyggy Piggy:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsBrd3u1JZw

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Monday, April 6, 2020 11:13 AM

Rob Gronovius

 

 
Gamera

Although I'm not sure I'd go with the gold either there Rob, I kinda like a bronze steampunk look. 

 

 

Yes, when I opened the box, I was expecting gold chrome plating. I was not planning on painting it gold, but my metallic color choice would be based off of what color I have on hand. I do have some gunmetal and it would give it a wrought iron color, but that might be too dark for my tastes.

Natural metal isn't my forte and is a new realm.

 

Hmm, well I suppose you could go with a sandy tan/yellow desert scheme and keep it sorta close to the gold without using a metallic shade. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Monday, April 6, 2020 10:24 AM

Gamera

Although I'm not sure I'd go with the gold either there Rob, I kinda like a bronze steampunk look. 

Yes, when I opened the box, I was expecting gold chrome plating. I was not planning on painting it gold, but my metallic color choice would be based off of what color I have on hand. I do have some gunmetal and it would give it a wrought iron color, but that might be too dark for my tastes.

Natural metal isn't my forte and is a new realm.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Monday, April 6, 2020 7:32 AM

Those look great guys!!! 

Although I'm not sure I'd go with the gold either there Rob, I kinda like a bronze steampunk look. 

 

I've got about two-thirds of my Jaeger assembled. I wanted to light the visor but it looks like that will be a pain, running wires though the working joints just looks like a bad idea. If only the figure were bigger. At least paint shouldn't be an issue- it's mainly why I went with Obsidian Fury instead of Gipsy Danger or Gipsy Avenger- OF is almost all metallic black. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Central Texas
Posted by NucMedTech on Sunday, April 5, 2020 5:27 PM

Rob, I am kind of liking the steampunk vibe of that kit. Will be interesting to see what you do with it.

Robo,(hope that is alright) not really sure on paint scheme yet. Maybe something forest camo like. Just know I am not keeping the blue.

Stephen

Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

  • Member since
    July 2019
Posted by Robotism on Sunday, April 5, 2020 5:07 PM

Rob Gronovius

 

Yeah, I noticed the more primitive steam punk style pipes. That's why I thought it might look better in a more realistic metallic paint scheme as opposed to a gold plated C3PO motif. Like a worn bronze/steel/copper look.

 

That would look great. Big ol' soot stains all down it.

 

What are the Gouf painting plans Nuc?

 


Tonights progress. Had some more fitting issues. The crown doesn't slot in properly and the white part fits on it and doesn't reach the connecting part below. Don't think it's supposed to move but it's an annoying fit when you don't want to break the V-fin. The runners have a spare face mask but it's different on the runner to the instructions pictures. Identical to the one I have installed so I have no clue what so ever. Not a fan of the head as a design but it's such a small part of the whole kit I can look past it.

Arms later tonight or tomorrow. Fitting issues and having to clean up flash on delicate parts leads to building fatique.

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Central Texas
Posted by NucMedTech on Sunday, April 5, 2020 4:39 PM

Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

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