Kuma :
eBay : a good judge is feedback . Look and see if they have any negs , and if so , how recent , what the problem was , then go read the other side as well . I got one neg , it was retaliation for me hitting him for ignoring me ; his item went cheap and he tried to resell it .
I've not dealt with D4W yet , but hope to soon . As yet I've not heard any 'burned' problems , but a few 'slow' comments , but he is an online-only store as a sideline .
BYA is relatively new , but from what I see , they are a clearinghouse for other makers ( I think his tracks are Kenny Kongs , dunno who makes the barrels , but that E8 kit is a subcontract : I asked )
Most don't bother with the hole , and its one more thing to complicate a mold ; would you want it if it increased the cost of the tracks ( from the BYA - $160 to maybe $200 ? )
You want to run a Tamiya battle unit ? Firstly , you HAVE to have a Full Function unit to use one . So there go the kit options !!
You want
rcarmorforum.org . Dick and the guys have an ~indoor~ 60' x 85' battlepark at the AAF Tank Museum in Virginia , and the
MAADHQ.com has images of the park , and the RCACN regs .
I'll warn ya now , you run with them , you're gonna be doing upgrades , once ya see their rigs . They now can also advise you about maintenance .
As for sticking detail bits down :
One : clean , bare (unpainted) & slightly roughed surfaces , ~always~ !! Use about 240 grit emery paper to roughen , thinner for metal cleaning , dish-washing soap for styrene (always wash the sprues before ya start !!)
Two : styrene to styrene , use a liquid-glue (TenaxR or similar) 'cause it works better . This from one thats used both types of glues , & won't use tubes except as a 'filler' with baking powder !
Three : If its styrene to metal (like Aber PE or home-made track-guards) roughen/buff the metal same as the styrene , then re-wash before gluing (CA wont bond decently to polished metal)
DON'T use CA kicker / CA accelerator - it makes the bond brittle !
Four : metal-to-metal , solder if you can , use method #3 if you can't . Get a CA that says its designed for metal if you can . JB-Weld is good too , but its too bulky for fine parts .
Five : If its popping off ~that~ easily , your glue is bad , you're not following these steps , or it shouldn't be stuck on to start with !
WhiteWolf
(who often has to use the liquid-solvent as a ~DE~bonder !)