SdKfz 222 Finished

modelbuilder wrote:

Here is my little SdKfz 222 German armored car from Tamiya.  Built OOB except for fender width poles, they are Jordi Rubio. I used Model Master enamels to paint it. Weathered with Tamiya weathering powders. I created the mud by mixing a little water with the Tamiya mud powder to create a slurry which I brushed on the model. Also used an oil was to help bring out detail and weather it even further. Finally got it flat coated last night. Question regarding that, do you guys use the rattle can flat coat or the kind you mix in an airbrush? Markings are for 2nd SS Panzer Division in Russia during Barbarossa. I hope the pics turned out good, I used some differnt lighting on these.

Just wondering but did you forget ro paint the tires? they look exactly the same color as the original plastic color. Here is a tip leave the tires off the kit for the final assembly so you can paint and weather the wheel wells then you can paint and weather the tires seperate from the rest of the model let both dry then you can use your flat coat on both assemblies. Attach the tires then your pretty much done.

And let me guess this is the older incarnation of the 222 kit that has the mesh instead of the PE cover and turned aluminum gun barrel?

Mikeym_us wrote:

modelbuilder wrote: Here is my little SdKfz 222 German armored car from Tamiya.  Built OOB except for fender width poles, they are Jordi Rubio. I used Model Master enamels to paint it. Weathered with Tamiya weathering powders. I created the mud by mixing a little water with the Tamiya mud powder to create a slurry which I brushed on the model. Also used an oil was to help bring out detail and weather it even further. Finally got it flat coated last night. Question regarding that, do you guys use the rattle can flat coat or the kind you mix in an airbrush? Markings are for 2nd SS Panzer Division in Russia during Barbarossa. I hope the pics turned out good, I used some differnt lighting on these. Just wondering but did you forget ro paint the tires? they look exactly the same color as the original plastic color. Here is a tip leave the tires off the kit for the final assembly so you can paint and weather the wheel wells then you can paint and weather the tires seperate from the rest of the model let both dry then you can use your flat coat on both assemblies. Attach the tires then your pretty much done. And let me guess this is the older incarnation of the 222 kit that has the mesh instead of the PE cover and turned aluminum gun barrel?

Yes this is the older kit. I did paint the tires. After my weathering they darkened up and it does look like the bare plastic. looks better in person

MB - not a bad effort, and I like the way you haven't over-done the weathering on the lower hull and runing gear. However, a few  points.

First, the white camo stripes look a bit bright. If you used flash photography, then they will have turned out brighter than they really are, but otherwise, a light overspray of an earthy-brown colour over the whole model would serve to toen them down.

Second, the camo stripes go over the jerry cans. When having the camo applied, the crew would almost certainly have removed the jerry cans first, especially if they weren't doing it themselves. Too much chance of them getting nicked, else!

Next, I know that the version of the kit you built doesn't come with etched mesh, but maybe you could have found something finer, and more realistic, than what you used? A pair of large-dernier tights (either bought, or nicked from the girlfriend) will give you a lifetime's supply!

Finally, detail-painting. The ends of those width indicator poles need to be painted white, so that they can be seen in darkness. Also, the rear view mirror needs to be chrome silver, or, better, a disc of Bare Metal Foil.

Generally, though, not a bad effort at all. I think that the hard-edged white camo stripes are far more effective than soft-edged ones in this sort of field-applied camo.

Cheers,

Chris.

chris hall wrote:

MB - not a bad effort, and I like the way you haven't over-done the weathering on the lower hull and runing gear. However, a few  points. First, the white camo stripes look a bit bright. If you used flash photography, then they will have turned out brighter than they really are, but otherwise, a light overspray of an earthy-brown colour over the whole model would serve to toen them down. Second, the camo stripes go over the jerry cans. When having the camo applied, the crew would almost certainly have removed the jerry cans first, especially if they weren't doing it themselves. Too much chance of them getting nicked, else! Next, I know that the version of the kit you built doesn't come with etched mesh, but maybe you could have found something finer, and more realistic, than what you used? A pair of large-dernier tights (either bought, or nicked from the girlfriend) will give you a lifetime's supply! Finally, detail-painting. The ends of those width indicator poles need to be painted white, so that they can be seen in darkness. Also, the rear view mirror needs to be chrome silver, or, better, a disc of Bare Metal Foil. Generally, though, not a bad effort at all. I think that the hard-edged white camo stripes are far more effective than soft-edged ones in this sort of field-applied camo. Cheers, Chris.

I think it is the lighting, The white does not stand out that bad in person. I have a sheet of brass etched mesh but it seemed to be too thick and wasnt sure my cutter would cut precise enough. After finishing the kit I noticed a few photos of the fender poles with white tips. The reference I used, I could not tell if they were painted or body color. As for the mirror, i wasnt sure what that was. None of the reference photos I looked at had a good view of it. Was waiting to see what you guys said. As far as the camo, I wanted it to appear to have been applied but the crew in the field.

modelbuilder wrote:

chris hall wrote: MB - not a bad effort, and I like the way you haven't over-done the weathering on the lower hull and runing gear. However, a few  points. First, the white camo stripes look a bit bright. If you used flash photography, then they will have turned out brighter than they really are, but otherwise, a light overspray of an earthy-brown colour over the whole model would serve to toen them down. Second, the camo stripes go over the jerry cans. When having the camo applied, the crew would almost certainly have removed the jerry cans first, especially if they weren't doing it themselves. Too much chance of them getting nicked, else! Next, I know that the version of the kit you built doesn't come with etched mesh, but maybe you could have found something finer, and more realistic, than what you used? A pair of large-dernier tights (either bought, or nicked from the girlfriend) will give you a lifetime's supply! Finally, detail-painting. The ends of those width indicator poles need to be painted white, so that they can be seen in darkness. Also, the rear view mirror needs to be chrome silver, or, better, a disc of Bare Metal Foil. Generally, though, not a bad effort at all. I think that the hard-edged white camo stripes are far more effective than soft-edged ones in this sort of field-applied camo. Cheers, Chris.   I think it is the lighting, The white does not stand out that bad in person. I have a sheet of brass etched mesh but it seemed to be too thick and wasnt sure my cutter would cut precise enough. After finishing the kit I noticed a few photos of the fender poles with white tips. The reference I used, I could not tell if they were painted or body color. As for the mirror, i wasnt sure what that was. None of the reference photos I looked at had a good view of it. Was waiting to see what you guys said. As far as the camo, I wanted it to appear to have been applied but the crew in the field.

Eduard makes a nice PE set for the 222. I have 2 Sdkfz.222's in my stash on is the earlier release with none of the bells and whistles like what you built and the other is the newer release (not the one in the Afrika Korps boxing) with the pe mesh and the turned barrel. IMHO the PE mesh is a tad thick but the Eduard set comes with some nice mesh which is of a decent thickness.