Cheerio! 1/48 Tamiya Universal Carrier Mk.II ~Finished~

WOW, I woulda thought that this was 1/35--beautiful job.

The only critique I would strongly recommend would be to tone down those orangy rifle parts with a good raw umber wash. They're definitely too "orange".

The rest of it though looks perfect!

Peeked a little in the GB when this was still a WIP. Glad to see it done!

But as Karl already said, tone down those rifles.. Those are just too orange!!

And the springs do really add to it.

Awsome work all in all!

anthony2779- Thanks so much for the kind comments!

doog- Glad it impressed! Hmmm..... I think your right about the orange. In person it doesn't seem that bad, but now that I look at the pics more, it does look a bit orange. So I'll be toning down the orange tommorrow. Might even make a wood base if I feel adventurous.

wbill76- Thanks for noticing the scratch suspension springs. Believe it or not, I found these small springs after realizing their's some in the tumbler of a lock! How's that for a world of scratch?

TD4438- Glad to hear the it was worth the wait! It seemed the build time was doubling week after week, probably due to adding one scratch detail after another.

Huxy- Glad you like the finished product and scratch springs. No worries, I'll be getting around to darkening the wood color of the guns.

   A beautiful piece of work Mg.

   The fact that this little guy could easily fool someone into thinking that its 1/35 is a testament to the attention to detail that you've put into it.

   Also another good source of springs are the one's under the flints in disposable bic lighter's

Very fine work, mg - love the subtle variations in shading on the vehicle itself. A couple of points. First, why the need for lots of masking? Couldn't you just brush-paint the detail bits after you've done the main paint job?

Second, like the other guys hae said - those rifles! Stocks unlike any Lee Enfield or Bren I've ever seen (and I've seen a few, when I joined up, reserve units were still using them, and many Regulars preferred the Lee Enfield to the SLR for it's greater accuracy at distance). I use Citadel Bestial Brown for the base colour for the wooden bits of British personal weapons. I wouldn't try to reproduce wood effect on a rifle in 1/48, though.

Cheers,

Chris.

Evidently the tracks did the turn by curving? not braking somehow.

Up to a point. Steering was by a conventional steering wheel. For small degreees of turn, such as might take place at speed, the idles would turn, in pretty much the same way as a wheeled vehicle. This warped the track in the desired direction of turn, anc caused the front of the vehicle to turn in that direction. In this way, full power could be maintanined on both tracks.

For more radical turns, conventional brake steering was used.

Cheers,

Chris.

Beautiful Build Mg .  I love these 1/48 kits & you certainly did this one justice.

Regards,  Rick

Very nice work MG!! I agree that the springs on the suspention look realy good. 

As said before try puting a darker wash or something on the rifles. Also I think the bags on the back look just a tinny bit shiny but that could just be the picture.

Great build.

panzerguy- Thanks for the very kind words! Hmm...never thought about using the lighter springs. You should send that tip into FSM.

MECHTECH- Thanks for checkin' out my build!

chris hall- Well, I'm not doog, but I find that to be a compliment nonetheless. I'll fix thoses gun stocks, and yes their is quite a need for masking. Look at the pics below to see what I mean:

The roadwheels are already attached to the tracks(all one piece), it may make construction easier, but makes painting a real pain.

The mufflers are attached to the hull, so painting them correctly becomes a hellish time due to the time need to mask properly.

rjkplasticmod- Thanks for the compliments!

stickman- Thanks for noticing the scratch suspension coils, and yes, I'll be getting around to those wood stocks.

wing_nut- Thanks for checkin' out the build and for the compliment!

chris hall- Well, I'm not doog,

My bad! I still reckon the detail bits could have been brush-painted, especially in 1/48. The exhausts, tracks and tyres here:

(1/35)

here:

(1/72)

and here:

(1/35) were all brush-painted with acrylics after main painting.

Cheers,

Chris.

lexesbenz- Thanks for the compliments!

chris hall- I probably should have explained it a bit better, I did brush-paint the tracks, roadwheels, and pretty much everthing else. However the masking was still quite a necesity.

mg.mikael, that looks brilliant, spot on, just great.... I can't think of much more.

Congrats on a beautiful model.

Terry.

terry35- Thanks a million for checkin' out my build and for the compliments!

doog-  I think you made a slight typo, since I posted the pic of the muffler. Nevertheless, thanks for the very kind comments.

doog-  I think you made a slight typo, since I posted the pic of the muffler

Yup, not me, guv. Silly putty is an excellent masking material, but difficult to find here in the UK. Used to be most every toyshop stocked it, but I've not seen it for at least five years.

Cheers,

Chris.

MG - Very nice, just a lot packed into a little package. Very nice weathering....The "florida" rifiles are interesting  .

Very nice build...1/35 detail work packed into 1/48 package

Rounds Complete!!

Awesome.  I too love the 1/48th range as I can keep my armor kits in the same scale as my aircraft kits...  You have really shown what can be accomplished in this scale!  I love it!

redleg12- Yep, I'll get around to fixin' those rifles wood stocks......soon. Thanks for the comments!

USArmyFAO- Thanks for admiring my build and for the comments!

TheNakedModeler wrote:

These are brush painted!  you can't even tell no tell tale brush lines very nice work. Do you thin out the paint to make it flow better as you paint or just very light brush strokes ?

Glad to see you used the link and thanks for the kind comments, TheNakedModeler! To answer your question, no I don't thin my paints(but for airbrushing you have to). I found after trial and error that I like ModelMaster Acrylics the best, since they flow nicely and evenly(light brush strokes or not), and it's easy to fix problems. Plus it's hard to get brush strokes if you know when to apply the paint, ex: not applying a new layer of paint when one is starting to dry. I can work with enamels pretty well, but you have to have skill inorder to prevent the infamous brush-strokes. As for my brushes, I use Golden Taklon brushes(never the synthetic fibers), their a bit pricey(about $3.69 each), but I wait till their on sale. Hope this answers your questions.

mg.mikael wrote:

TheNakedModeler wrote: These are brush painted!  you can't even tell no tell tale brush lines very nice work. Do you thin out the paint to make it flow better as you paint or just very light brush strokes ? Glad to see you used the link and thanks for the kind comments, TheNakedModeler! To answer your question, no I don't thin my paints(but for airbrushing you have to). I found after trial and error that I like ModelMaster Acrylics the best, since they flow nicely and evenly(light brush strokes or not), and it's easy to fix problems. Plus it's hard to get brush strokes if you know when to apply the paint, ex: not applying a new layer of paint when one is starting to dry. I can work with enamels pretty well, but you have to have skill inorder to prevent the infamous brush-strokes. As for my brushes, I use Golden Taklon brushes(never the synthetic fibers), their a bit pricey(about $3.69 each), but I wait till their on sale. Hope this answers your questions.

Thats good information just straight paint and very high end brushes they do make or break a good paint job.

TheNakedModeler wrote:

mg.mikael wrote:  TheNakedModeler wrote: These are brush painted!  you can't even tell no tell tale brush lines very nice work. Do you thin out the paint to make it flow better as you paint or just very light brush strokes ? Glad to see you used the link and thanks for the kind comments, TheNakedModeler! To answer your question, no I don't thin my paints(but for airbrushing you have to). I found after trial and error that I like ModelMaster Acrylics the best, since they flow nicely and evenly(light brush strokes or not), and it's easy to fix problems. Plus it's hard to get brush strokes if you know when to apply the paint, ex: not applying a new layer of paint when one is starting to dry. I can work with enamels pretty well, but you have to have skill inorder to prevent the infamous brush-strokes. As for my brushes, I use Golden Taklon brushes(never the synthetic fibers), their a bit pricey(about $3.69 each), but I wait till their on sale. Hope this answers your questions. Thats good information just straight paint and very high end brushes they do make or break a good paint job.

Glad I could help, and I hope this encourages you to start painting your builds.

I'll bet it's better detailed then the older 1/35. Nicely done. Does it come with the link-and-length tracks?

I'd like to see them redo the older 1/35 myself.