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Panther Ausf A late 2-20-10 I'm calling this one DONE!

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  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Dublin Rep Of Ireland
Posted by terry35 on Saturday, October 24, 2009 7:48 PM

thats simply killer camo, too cool man.

Terry.

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • From: ladner BC Canada
Posted by stick man on Saturday, October 24, 2009 8:09 PM

Realy cool camo!

Smile [:)]

I'm 15 and I model I sk8board and I drum what could be better.
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Saturday, October 24, 2009 9:55 PM
Guney, Terry, Stickman,
Thank you for the compliment. The color plate for this one showed a random scheme.
Cheers
Dave

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Sunday, October 25, 2009 12:32 AM
Yeah! I was able to get more done today! Woo Hoo! It takes so little any more.
Slowly but surely
Cheers
Dave
I got the tools painted with Vallejo German Grey
Panther Ausf A left tool detail w/o graphite
Here the tools were burnished with graphite
Panther Ausf A left tool detail w/o dusting
To do the burnishing I used color blenders. They are soft tipped and come in different hardnesses. I just rubbed them on the graphite stick, far right in the picture. Then rubbed them on the part to be burnished.
Panther Ausf A
Here is after a dusting with Tamiya Flat Earth
Panther Ausf A left tools detail
Bottom of the hull shaded with the Flat Earth. Not sure how well it will show up. Having a heck of a time with the lighting tonight. I've been tweaking the white balance, to no avail. Probably just me.
Panther Ausf A bottom hull
Here is after an overall dusting with Tamiya Flat Earth. I went a bit heavier in areas that are shadowed (eg barrel rod tube). I really does look better in person.
Panther Ausf A front left 3/4

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Queensbury,NY
Posted by panzer88 on Sunday, October 25, 2009 9:59 AM
Looking great!!! I like how the tools came out. Where do you get one of those graphite sticks, art supply store,Staples?

     

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, October 25, 2009 10:54 AM

This one had slipped off my radar screen Dave but I found it today and have to say this one's looking mighty fine! The camo and detail work are really bringing this one alive.

Only suggestion I would have is to edit the title in your "original" post instead of just the reply as you've done so far. For example, if you look on the thread listing page you'll see that the date on this thread is from a couple of weeks ago while the date on my reply up above has the 10-24 date. Wink [;)]

  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Connecticut, USA
Posted by Nachtflieger on Sunday, October 25, 2009 11:32 AM

Love the camo on this one! I also like how your tools came out. Extremely well done!Thumbs Up [tup]

Nate

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2008
  • From: Goffstown, NH
Posted by New Hampshire on Sunday, October 25, 2009 12:00 PM

Hey Dave,

Been away from the site for a while, and your's is the first thread I got to g over real good....and I must say you delivered!  Well done so far!

Brian

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Sunday, October 25, 2009 12:10 PM

Panzer88,

Thank you for the compliment.

I got mine at a local art store here in Eugene. They range in hardness from 8B to 8H. Staples might have them in their art/craft section. The sticks also come in square bars. Just rememebered, if you are near a collage/university check their supply/book store.  It's a good chance they may have it.

Bill,

I've been following your 38t build and from what I've seen the compliment is high praise indeed.

Thank you for the house keeping tip.  Already done.

Nate,

Thank you! I usually use MM exhaust metalizer to paint my tools with an AB but, since the tools all pretty much have PE cotter pins, brass "bolts" holding them in place AB wasn't an option this time.  I needed to use something that wasn't going to interact/eat through the paint already laid down.  The last time I used the color blenders was years ago, forgot about them and, remembered them yesterday. I was pleased with the result.

Cheers

Dave

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Sunday, October 25, 2009 12:16 PM

Brian,

Sign - Welcome [#welcome] back! Thank you for the praise!

There a lot of incredible threads running.  A couple off the top of my head are wbill76's 38t, and the Doog's Panther Ersatz M10.  A LOT to be learned there.  Mind you there are a bunch of other threads that are stunning as well.  The brain doesn't have access to those files right now.  Java has yet to kick in.

Cheers

Dave

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: S.W. Missouri
Posted by Pvt Mutt on Sunday, October 25, 2009 12:54 PM

Yes Sir that baby is looking WOW WEEApprove [^]

Tony the Mutt

Shoot Low Boys They're Ridin Ponys

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Sunday, October 25, 2009 2:44 PM
Top-notch painting and work.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Everett, WA
Posted by Schnobs on Sunday, October 25, 2009 4:14 PM

Dave!

This is looking great my man and your OCD is paying off on this one!  Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

"There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which cannot fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance. That principle is contempt prior to investigation." Herbert Spencer
  • Member since
    January 2008
  • From: Bournemouth UK
Posted by Bodge on Sunday, October 25, 2009 4:37 PM
Wow, this is lookin incredible, all the details are looking really sharp.Thumbs Up [tup]
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Sunday, October 25, 2009 6:02 PM
Tony, Eric, Bodge,
Thank you for your compliments and stopping by.

Edmund,
The voices in the OCD command center said it was time to lay down the gloss coat for the decals,washes, dots, and filters. I just do what the voices say!

I didn't figure it was worth shooting pics just for a gloss coat. It didn't darken the paint up nearly as much as I had feared. It did sharpen the contrast of the colors. The filters and weathering will soften that up. By the time I next get back to the bench this week the Future will have cured to an armor shell.

On second thought.... I decided to shoot a couple of pics. The gloss coat brought out the shading I did with the Flat Earth.
Photobucket
Photobucket

Cheers gentlemen
Dave

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Sunday, October 25, 2009 6:18 PM

Dave,

A couple of suggestions. First, everybody here knows that I disdain the use of "Future" as necessary over Tamiya acrylics. It's NOT necesary for the "protection" of the paint, as Tamiya acrylic coats are tough-as-nails. You can wash and filter right over it with no adverse effects.

Second--as soon as you put that big, shiny coat down, you lose all the benefit of that graphite weathering you did. Ditto that for any other weathering that you did with anything metallic. The graphite would work to highlight the tools because of the contrast between the flat paint and the shine of the graphite. If you're going to use gloss coats, you need to plan your weathering in order to maximize the effectiveness of the steps. I highly recommend that you gloss FIRST, before any other weathering, THEN flat coat, THEN proceed with all your other weathering steps. Otherwise, you're just muting all your previous work.

Again, you DON'T need to "protect" Tamiya acrylics. Unless you're washing with gasoline or something. Laugh [(-D]

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Sunday, October 25, 2009 6:41 PM
Karl,
I knew I could do something to draw you out! LOL
This is the kind of information I am seeking. I've been using it so long that it is now a habit. It has been feeling that it is time to change things up.
What do you cut your washes and filters with? I have been using mineral spirits to work with my oil paints. Would this "eat" the acrylic paint? This is my first go around in a long time working strictly with acrylic paints. I usually work with MM enamels. It would be nice to eliminate a step.
It is usually around this point on a kit that I start to have difficulties with proceeding. Technical assemblies I can do, it is the artistic portion of the program I have to work a lot harder at.
Who knows I may have grabbed the gasoline at some point with a kit a LONG time ago.
Thank you for the advice.

Cheers
Dave
Your Humble Disciple

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Sunday, October 25, 2009 7:04 PM

Dave, I use regular low-odor mineral spirits, or your simple generic "Paint thinner" from the local hardware store. NO, it will NOT harm the Tamiya acrylics.

Other acrylics MAY or may not be more "fragile"; I also don't seal my MM acrylics, and never have a problem with them. 

I wish I knew where this rumor/disinformation came from about acrylics being so fragile? I think I remember hearing something about them used-to being fragile in the past, but nowadays they're the best option for painting in my opinion. 

Some guys still use enamels, and if you do ,then you DO have to seal them in. But nowadays,  in Auto Modeling, where I am posting lately (building a Modified Stocker) enamels used to be 'THE" paint. But lately, lacquers have taken over, and Tamiya's acrylics/lacquers are really amazing paints for laying down beautiful color coats straight from the can--they even have Armor colors in cans now for the airbrush-challenged.

My advice? Ditch the whole concept of sealing in your paint coat if you're using Tamiya or MM acrylics. If you want to put a spot of gloss under the decals, then do that--I do that too, sometimes. And some guys prefer doing washes over gloss; I do not. But it's still a viable technique that you should not dismiss. However, you CAN do it over simple base coats. The difference is that the flat base coat willl "grab" the color more than a gloss coat will.Just remember, do the filters and drybrushing over a flat coat--you can actually see the results more accurately as well over a flat coat.

Good luck, and I'll try to remmeber to check into this build form time to time between plumbing my Chevy small block! Blush [:I]

 

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 4:56 AM
Karl,
Before trying my hand in armor, I'd been building A/C using MM enamels. That is probably where I carried it over from. In the rare down time moments at work, it occured to me (albeit slowly) there was a disconnect in my mind. I'm sealing MM enamel with an acrylic then "washing" the A/C. Hmmmmm! Now I'm painting with acrylic and sealing with an acrylic. Well, that happened! Hopefully today I'll at least get the decals on.
Cheers
Dave

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 7:29 AM
Sealing schmealing!  Whatever you are doing it looks terrific.

Marc  

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Thursday, October 29, 2009 7:03 PM
Wing-Nut,
Many thanks! Sorry it took so long for the reply.

It's taken me a while to make it to the bench, but I made it today! I got the Echelon decals on and I have mixed feelings about them. It may have just been the luck of the draw. They are very brittle (I did store them carefully) and, no they did not shatter. The first decal I laid down was the Wiking emblem. It went on easily and in the process of positioning it I thought I saw a crack or two. When I had applied some GENTLE pressure with a moistened Q-tip the lower half just came apart. Awwww (expletive)!!!!! Luckily, the set came with a spare. The sword and "Sophie" decals snuggled down after several applications of Solvaset. Then came the turret decals (I've only gotten one side on so far). They would not settle down. So I tried Micro Sol. No Go! So I applied what had to be toxic amounts of Solvaset to get the result you now see in the picture. I am contemplating on just stenciling the rear turret numbers, or even hand painting them. These decal are not about to go easily over complex surfaces. I still will use this set on the Non-Zimmed Ausf G's in the stash
Cheers
Dave
Panther Ausf A late Wiking decal
Panther Ausf A late
Panther Ausf A late turret decal

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Everett, WA
Posted by Schnobs on Thursday, October 29, 2009 7:09 PM

Nice Dave!

I love the large numbers on the turret and the Zimmert is Divine!!!

"There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which cannot fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance. That principle is contempt prior to investigation." Herbert Spencer
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Thursday, October 29, 2009 7:29 PM
Edmund,
Thank you! Nice touch on the green lettering. LOL

I tried something a bit different with the right turret decals. I let the Solvaset remain on them for about 10 minutes after several application of the same stuff. I then moistened a Q-tip and DID NOT blot the extra water off. I pressed perpendicular to the surface, while making sure the Q-tip stayed moist with H2O. This seems to work. A couple of things to watch for are loose fibers (Yes, the ones in the picture have been removed) the pressing works something out leaving a white film (probably the decal adhesive) you will want to wipe up any excess H2O ASAP before it dries (it will do so quickly)

Cheers
Dave
Photobucket
Here is what I would have to decal with non compliant decals. Now you see why I would rather stecil or free hand this part
Photobucket

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Thursday, October 29, 2009 8:18 PM
Arrrrrrgghhhhhhh!!!!!
I was going to modify how I was to decal the rear of the turret. That is lay down decal over the relatively "flat" surfaces and hand paint over the complex portions. I got the #4 on the escape hatch fine. Then the #'s 7 and 1 not just shattered.....they DETONATED!
Well, it looks as thought I will be hand painting them after all. I'll post some pics then. Until then I am going to cry into a beer.

Cheers
Dave

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posted by IBuild148 on Thursday, October 29, 2009 8:52 PM

Dave,

Since I started doing armor, and looking for techniques to improve I always count on the - gospel according to the "doog" as well as many other advanced modelers here on FSM.

I have done this concept and it works and I have had NO negative results.

Just my 2 cents!

I love how this is turning out!

 

IBuildOne48

Teach modeling to youth!

Scalefinishes.com

http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww122/randysmodels/NMF%20Group%20build%20II/Group%20Badge/NMFIIGBbadgesmall.jpg

 

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Thursday, October 29, 2009 9:17 PM
IBuild148,
Thank you for the compliment and your 2 cents. I've never had a bad experience either. I am willing to try a different technique and see if I can better my results. Or have another technique in my arsenal since not all techniques work in all situations (at least in my experience). I have never had a decal detonation like today. It is the decals. Too bad as the set had some great camo schemes. One of which is a Panther Ausf G with schurzen and, on the schurzen is a dot camo scheme.
Cheers
Dave

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Thursday, October 29, 2009 11:42 PM
I couldn't leave well enough alone. I finished the rear turret numbers just now. Mind you I did walk away from the bench for a little while. Long enough to have a sit down dinner with the "tribe". The #7 is all stencil with Tamiya Flat White, #1 is half stencil (the bottom half that is), #4 is all decal. I did go over the numbers with Vallejo flat white to blend the colors. Then I grabbed a 5/0 brush and added paint runs with the Vallejo flat white.
Cheers
Dave

Panther Ausf A late rear turret stencils

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Everett, WA
Posted by Schnobs on Friday, October 30, 2009 12:00 AM
Looks great Dave!  Awesome Save by the OCD King!!
"There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which cannot fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance. That principle is contempt prior to investigation." Herbert Spencer
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Friday, October 30, 2009 12:21 AM
Edmund,
Thank you for stopping in and, checking it out. I am done for the night. I may do some light chipping before the dots tomorrow, but it will be lightly done. The chipping that is. I think the appearance I will be going for is dirty but, not a lot of time in the field. I am going to get started on the Panzer riders for the aft end. I still need to find a commander to perch in the hatch. Any suggestions?

Cheers
Dave

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Friday, October 30, 2009 9:44 AM
Looks like you got it all to work out in the end Dave! Markings look good. I always use Solvaset now for decals as I've yet to find a set of decals it couldn't handle even though sometimes multiple applications may be needed.
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