Tristar Pz IV Ausf B DONE 8/12 page 11

Marc,

You're cracking me up! Thank you for the compliment.  Not very much done on the tank.  I got the springs painted with Vallejo Dark Rust.  I've got a big honking set of Abteilung oils in a box downstairs that I'm not allowed to open until my birthday.  I'm cracking that baby at midnight tonight. I'll be getting more detail painting done this weekend. I shifted focus today and started on the base. More on that in a bit.

I cut this with a jig saw and routered the edges, hit it with some sand paper.  The stain  used is a polyurethane based, Bombay Mahogany.

The tree was made from 22 and 20 gauge florist wire twisted together.  

Not a great detail shot of the tree.  I was having a heck of a time getting it to focus.  This was as good as it gets.

My wire/cable cutter.  Park Tools.... not just for bike maintenance anymore.

This is the tree after coating it with a hot glue gun using low temperature glue sticks.  I've tried the dual temp sticks and I don't think they work as well.  I'll get this baby painted tomorrow.  Just trying to decide how I want to do the foliage.

Cheers

Dave

Jeez Louise Dave.  What IA difference form the last time I checked in.  All I can is... SCHWING!

Bill,

Sorry it took so long to reply.  Thank you so much for the info! I love it when you guys add items like this to a thread.  I may have to do another early Pz IV build just so I can do the two tone scheme. I've got a couple of others lurking in the stash.  

These pics are a bit out of order as I did not have access to the computer do load these of the aerial.  As you can see by the package it is by Aber and, they come as a three pack.  This is the same one I used on my Panther build.  I liked it so much I picked up a couple more packs for the parts stash.  The compare and contrast pic will speak for itself on how much better appearing the Aber aerial is to the stock one.

I just couldn't resist added an even smaller part.

Cheers

Dave

Dave,

All vehicles Nov 1938 to June 1940 (scheme was ordered first in Nov 1938 and vehicles on hand at that time were supposed to be repainted in the new scheme in the field) were ordered to be delivered in two-tone camo consisting of 2/3 Dunkelgrau and 1/3 Dunkelbraun. Scheme doesn't show up well in b/w photos so it's often the case that it is assumed that all German vehicles were monotone Panzer Gray until the switch in 1943 to Dunkelgelb. This has been perpetuated for decades by all the major manufacturers in terms of the finishing guides only calling for Panzer Gray, however at no time prior to June 1940 was an order issued for a single color scheme in Panzer Gray as the pre-Nov 1938 scheme was a three-tone arrangement first used by the Reichswehr.

Here's what the scheme looks like, the color plate appears in Panzerwaffe Volume Two: The Campaigns in the West 1940 by Mark Healy and is posted here for discussion purposes only. The volume also has several very sharp/clear large photos in b/w of various vehicles that makes it possible to see the scheme so this isn't just a case of a color plate fantasy by an artist as can be the case sometimes.

Dave,

Are you planning on a two-tone, pre-June 1940 scheme for this one?

Making good progress Dave! All the detail work is time consuming but will be worth it on the finished product I'm sure.

I've been putting on the small fiddley stuff last.  The theory being that it won't get broken off if I save it for last right?. As least that is what I'm hoping.  

The track tool and ladder were each three piece assemblies.  

I had originally thought to put the jack block on after it was painted. When I realized how the multiple parts for this assembly were going to go together, I thought otherwise.  Which is how I'll be painting this kit. Fully assembled.  With the exception being the running gear.

The caveat to the above is the spare tracks holders.  The track links will be easier to paint and, then add to the fenders.

The cupola hatches were put on today since I found a TC figure with a beret to place in the opening

I'll be using the TC figure. Maybe some of the others as the Pz will be but on a base.  The bogies articulate and, it would be a shame not to take advandage of that.

The PE chains were finally put on.  To mount them to the hull, I drilled the hull and used a rivet. To mount them to the pins, I cut across the end of the handle with a razor saw and glued it with CA.

The same technique was applied to the towing pin.

The chains for the smoke candles actually went fairly quickly. The time from cutting, annealing, and mounting was maybe 20 minutes

Cheers

Dave

Bill,

Congratulations?  I'm sorry?  I'm so sad I'm happy for you Or is it the other way around?  Thank you for the compliment on the details.  I was putting on the spare track mounts and noticed that on the inside aspect of the bottom there is recessed screw head detail.  This kit (pretty much Tristar in general) is loaded with detail.  Just be careful and take your time with it.  These babies don't just fall together. In all, it really is a nice kit.  I don't remember if I had mentioned it to you or someone else but, I'd love to see an early Pz III with the funky leaf spring suspensions.  Talk about your early prototypes.

Bill,

Thank you for checking in on the build my brother.  I love the detail that they put into this kit.  I'll be working on the rest of the OVM goodies today.  I should know better.....when I start thinking about laying some color down I need to add at least another week before it will even be close to happening.  More stuff to clean up and wee parts to put in their place. Give my regards to Edmund.

Cheers

Dave

Dave - this is looking awsome my brother.  You have beat the Tristar into submission..........LOL.

Loving it bro 

Sitting here looking through it all at Schnoobies house

Bob

Dave, thanks for the best wishes on the bid but didn't work out. Leaves more time for models this weekend though!

Nice work on the details. The Ausf A-B-C were basically experiments in their own right before the D became the first "true" production run vehicle produced in any great quantities. They played around with a lot of different things and of course the experience in Poland also played a role in shaping the IV. As you mentioned, the IV is the true "workhorse" of the Wehrmacht...the only design to serve from start to finish as a gun tank in fact although it did undergo modifications of course in its evolution.

bbrowniii,

I think I finally ended up with either three or four packs of the clamps.  Lurk away.  No worries about posting.  I got some work done on the jack.  I had to modify it as there were clearance issues between the handle and the right side of the upper hull.  Thank you again for dropping by and the compliment.

Brian,

Thank you sir for the compliment.  That beastie was the work horse.  I thought it odd that the Ausf A had a bow gun but the B had a pistol port.  They put the bow gun back with the Ausf C.  Kind of a good idea to have one. I've almost got the alphabet for the PzIV in the stash. One that I'd like to see come out is an early Pz III with the complex leaf spring suspension.  Anyway, I'm hoping to get some color on it this weekend.  We'll see.  I'll be using Lifecolor for the hull and, I'm trying out Devil Over the Atlantic "Track Brown" for....you guessed it!  The tracks.  The color looks like a metal with a black brown patina.  The company is based out of Florida (I am not affiliated with them in any manner) and very good service the first go around.  I ordered on the third of this month and it got here on the ninth.

Cheers gentlemen

Dave

Coming along real nice!  I started reading "Armored Thunderbolt" today which is about the Sherman tank but in reality is a pretty good overview of American tank doctrine that led to the Sherman, and the Panzer IV is getting mentioned a lot.  I said it before and I will say it again, the IV is my favorite German tank!

Brian

hughes2682

BBrowniii, Thank you for the compliment and checking in on this build. Uber detail with these Tristars! Yes, the clamps are sold as a set at Sears. You get different sizes. I'd recommend picking up a couple of packages. Cheers Dave

I'll go there tomorrow!

Thanks Dave.  I'll be here, lurking, even if I don't chime in every time you post an update.  Loving your progress.

hughes2682

Dave

I'm lovin' all the detail in this kit!  Those Tristar kits sure are nice, aren't they.  You're doing a bang up job on this puppy.

I'm really liking those clamps.  Where'd you get 'em?  (As I think about it, craftsman probably means Sears, right?)

A small update as I've been working with very small parts. It makes the OCD part of me verrrrryy happy

And, it's without the use of meds.  My wife says there are not meds enough! Thank heavens for the hobby.

I forgot to include the detail shot of the turret on the last update.  Be careful when adding the forward sloping panel on the top of the turret and the ventilation hatch.  The parts listed in the instructions do work with each other.  There are two different panels and hatches.  Both have exquisite screw head detail. The instructions call out for panel La-1 and hatch B-29.  B-29 does not fit that panel but it does fit Panel B-31 which, has fewer screws and the hinge plate for the ventilation hatch is different. The hatch that fits is part La-2.  Funny, B-29 is grayed out on the parts list as not being used but is called for (incorrectly) in the instructions.B-31's screws are larger than La-1.  I checked my references and could not come up with a definitive answer.  I went with La-1 which has more and smaller screws.  The thinking being with early manufacturing the process was over engineered and had yet to be streamlined.

The rest are detail shots of the OVM gear on the left side.  I do not yet have the jackblock done. I am working out some assembly kinks.  

The towing hooks are two separate pieces as well as the clasps and wing nuts.

The cleaning rods are separate pieces and again as with the clasps and wing nuts.

Cheers

Dave

Tony,

Buy a couple of packages of the clamps.  If I recall correctly the package contains the following clamps:  two ratcheting, two long nose (like what I used on the strip below the cupola), two regular ones (fairly heavy duty for their size) and either  two or four small ones.  Thank you for following along on this build.

Bill

Thank you for the compliment and following along on this build.  The Ausf B was rather odd in that it did not have the bow MG whereas the Ausf A did. I did get some  fiddley parts/ assemblies done since the last pic posting.  I'll try to post some Wednesday. Good luck of your job bid.

Cheers

Dave

Making good progress with this one Dave and you're right, it's starting to look like a tank!

I need to go to Sears and look for those clamps.

Tony Lee

Rob,

Thank you for the compliment.  The tape trick certainly cuts down on the sanding.  I've been keeping busy at the bench.  Lots of wee parts now, just not a lot of time to post.

Bob,

That DeWalt saved me a boat load of time when I was putting up a cultured stone facade on the house a couple of years ago.

I've been able to get some quality bench time in this last week.  It's just not been a high output week.  There are even more small parts assemblies.  Finicky parts. Just the build I was looking for.

This first shot is of a part (you'll see where this is going). That is flat and has to bend

That has to go here (in the slot below the cupola)

That ends up clamped like so

And ends up looking like this.  You can see where the plastic discolored and threatened to break.  I was already formulating a back up plan that , fortunately, I did not have to employ.

I decided to add some weld lines using some stretched sprue. It was glued down very delicately with some Model Master Liquid Cement.  This softened it up sufficiently to add the weld beads.The sprue was from some AFV 251 track pads. 

I scratched a piece of brass tubing to help with the weld beads.

The lifting hooks are a two piece affair.  They work wonderfully.  The short sprue that the pieces attached make assembly a cinch.  Just let the glue dry and then clip off the sprue.  

It starting to look like a tank.

Cheers

Dave

DEWALT BABY!  girnd the out-a that puppy

LMAO

Looking really good Dave, I especially like the tape trick for filler and sanding, I will have to try it out some time.

Nothing wrong with power tools if used right, but the grinder would be over kill. Unless your going to build a wreck .

keep the posts coming, the Pz IV is my favorite.

Rob

www.scratchmod.com

Bill,

Thank you for stopping in and checking up on my build.  Here's what I'm thinking of resorting to:

Do you think I should use the masonry wheel or the steel grinding wheel? After all it is a very unsightly area!.  I'm just pulling your leg.  The only time I use a power tool is when I'm grinding an area away with my trusty Dremel (the rotary one, NOT the sander). In reality the area in question really isn't too bad. Just trying to figure if it's worth tackling.  I probably will. 

Cheers

Dave

Looks like things are falling into place nicely on this one Dave...you have to be careful when using power tools to sand plastic due to the potential for friction to produce heat which in turn melts or scars the plastic in the process. Like the trick on the separate rubber rims, will have to remember that one.

Bob,

I do believe that necessity is one of the parents of invention.   Trust me, I WANTED the quickest way to sand the insides of thirty two road tires.  Otherwise I was going to need sedagives! . As you requested there are more pics. What is thy biding my master.  Hehehehe.

Eric,

Thank you. The filling under the fenders is far from over. I was worried that the EP marks would show but. it turns out that there is an even nastier beast that lurks under there. You can see it in the pic looking down the left side under the fender.  Well at least I got the potential misaligned bogies figured out. Now to fill the newly found gap/seam/not sure what to call it under the fender.  I'll put that pic up first.  Some later pics I'll show you what I used to sand the filled EP marks under the fenders.

The was the best I could get to show the bogies aligned and without toe out.  There was a bit of a gap between the bogies and the hull in a couple of spots. These were flooded with Ambroid liquid cement. I'll go back and fill the remaining voids with some white glue.

I used two pieces of heavy styrene stock to spread the rear of the hull sides.  Another reminder about the warped hull pan, that I should have started at the rear and worked forward. No sense in crying about it now.

The bogies where they belong.  They do articulate rather nicely.  So I'm wondering.  I think it is time to get my feet wet with base work.  This means that I'll need to search out an early Panzer commander with a beret. 

The lettering and numbers on the sides of the tires and return rollers in fantastic.  They were painted with Floquil Weathered Black (Thanks Edmund!!!). That's all the painting that will get done this week as I will be using Lifecolor to color this beastie.  I've got a couple of set coming from Great Models early next week.  There are still plenty of other sub assemblies to get together.

This is the set of bits that I used to sand the EP marks under the fender.  Actually is was the two to the far right. I've used the others in the past with good effect. 

Just wrap your choice of grit around the bit and have at it.  

This is the beast that the bit go to.  I originally purchased it to sand the edges of drawers during a kitchen remodel my wife and I did several years ago. I did not use this on the underside of the fenders for the EP marks though, I may be sorely tempted to use it with the new area under there that demands my attention.

Cheers

Dave

Wow Dave, I admire that fact that you filled the pin marks on the underside. I just couldn't do it. Props to you for going the whole 9-yards.

Oh sure, now you are inventing stuff.................LOL

Keep the pics coming bro

Bob

Bob,

Thank you for following along on this one.  A small drop of glue, a toothpick moistened with spit, Opti-loupes, and no hurry to be anywhere and you can do it.  That's what I did.

Not much done last week as it was busy here.  End of year school stuff for the kids.  One of the kids and myself testing up for a belt rank. Work.  You get the idea.

Well I made up for it this week.  The upper hull is coming along nicely.  The small fiddley parts will be put on after I join the upper and lower hulls. 

ALL of the EP marks filled and sanded.  I'll post some pics later of what I used to sand them.  It really cut a lot of time 

This was one of the louver assemblies that was warped prior to assembly.  I opted to glue it in place and then contend with the aft portions that were warped.  Turns out it too care of its self as soon as I glued the rear plate into place.

Bogies, drive sprockets, idlers are all done.  Now to figure out what happened with the hull pan.

I opted to use the returns wheels that used more parts.  It'll make painting much easier.

Road wheels galore.  These are masked and ready for painting. These came off the sprues rather nicely with minimal clean up.

Here is all 32  road tires sanded and ready for paint.  I remembered that there was a mold seam in the inner diameter that could be problematic with assembly.  If you forced it on you could split the tire.  The last two pics show what I used to sand that portion.  Just a couple of rotations of the sanding dowel and it was all good

Cheers

Dave