#3 Tristar Panzer I Ausf A *COMPLETED*

Thanks Sprue!  It was one of many great tips I learned here on FSM.  I used MM Wood (enamel) as base coat.  W&N oil paint Raw Umber lightly thinned using a stiff paintbrush like one of those cheap Testor kind to make streaks and let it dry for more than 24 hours before you can weather it. 

the wooden tool handles look real 

Dave & Terry- Sorry it took me long to get back to you guys.  I will look into that polly thing at upcoming show this Saturday.  Thanks for the nice comments.

Ben- Let's hope there will be a perfect GB after June.  Stay in touch.

Andy I love it beautiful finish. Well Done.

Terry.

Andy,

Something I've rediscovered for flat coating is Polly Scale flat coat.  It's acrylic and you can airbrush it straight out of the bottle.  I'm looking forward to the next  deafpanzer installment.

Cheers

Dave

Hey Andy,

I too am really wanting to build a Panzer II. I think the Dragon one has an interior similar to my Panzer I.

I'd like to build one of the bigger 1/24 Tasca Panzer II's but they take up too much precious space! !/35 will be fine.

We both like our early German Panzers and German SPG's so we'll have to both keep our eyes peeled.

After the StuG is complete I'll have two kits left in the stash. Two Dragon kits; the stunning Sherman IC Hybrid Firefly (my Grandad drove a Firefly in WWII so I want a good Firefly build on a base-my Aunt is looking for photos of him during WWII in his tank of which apparently there are loads but they are having trouble finding them) and the Marder III Ausf M Command Vehicle - a real mega kit with soooo many sprues!

We could look at a Panzer II GB and run it ourselves - we'll have to put the feelers out to guage interest? Something for the Summer maybe?

Lovely finished build by the way my friend, I'm loving her!

ATVB

Ben

Jetmodeler- Thanks!  Painting eyes are never that easy for me...   But am glad I didn't give up this time. 

Marc- Thanks!  Now I can return to my Marder II as MIG pigment has been applied last night.  It was a dirty job but somebody had to do it.   I have already started working on M24 Chaffee...

Ben- Just let me know if you see a good GB that fits our plan.  I am itchin' to build DML Panzer II later this year if possible.   Nice work on your StuG... I have been lurking around StuG GB.

Sorry about the bad picture but safe to say that they are no longer shiny!  Thank you for the constructive feedback... you guys rock!

Andy, nice to see that you can put this one on the finished list. Excellent job.

The figures look even better on the second attempt with the eyes.

Now that's what I'm talkin' about.  Sweet!

Hey Andy,

It's the eyes and the facial features in general that I struggle with. I think I'll be able to do the eyes okay now that I have some very good detailing brushes that go down to size 10/0 but I can't make the face 'pop'. I'll keep trying and I've got some articles etc on face painting that may help me too.

I took the figure out of my Dragon StuG III A as it was dismal and detractred from the build which is nice. I'm going to use the figure from this Tamiya kit for it and at least have yet another go at getting it right.

I'm off to paint the basecoat on my StuG III B now - I'm going to try the pre shade yet again and I'll be very happy if it works, even just a touch! I'll get it painted, decaled, tools fitted, wheels on and then Assemble the Friuls then finally head for the home straight! Wish me luck!

I'd love to build another Panzer I Ausf A with you. We could do a joint build, share info and perhaps do a joint blog? Could be fun as the Norway thing was good - apart from Lasse going off the radar!

ATVB

Ben

Thank you ogrejohn!  Hope you are still planning to attend Roscue Turner IMPS... it is only two weeks from now. Don't tell my wife I have lots of cash stashed somewhere in the house.  Will PM you more details soon. 

You've done a wonderful job on it Andy! Sure looks great!

Thanks Anthony!  I was wondering about the shiny uniforms too as they seems to be shiny now after washes.  I will definitely apply flat clear finish to tone it down.  Like always... thanks for your comments! 

Very nice effort Andy,a build to be proud of,the color modulation looks great,the overall dusty appearance,and the detail painting on the figures.One point maybe was mentioned,but the uniforms appear shiny,perhaps to try to flat them down some more ? but thats it great job

,

Anthony

Detailfreak- Thanks for stopping by.  Sure, just send me your figures along with a case of beer or two.  I paint better that way...   If things go well with my next two GBs, I am planning to join StuG GB if it is not too late.

Nate- Glad to help!   Unfortunately I buy a kit if I don't have it every time I see a great build.

Ben- You are way too nice!  Yes, for sure we had too much fun doing Norway GB... I have this "95% completed syndrome" that I would jump to next kit when it is almost done.   Just visit Figures and Misc forum... there were plenty of great toots especially by Indy and others where I learned a great deal.  I lost count how many times I tried to get the eyes right... wish all figures wore sunglasses!

Maybe when timing is right we can do Panzer IIs using brown/grey scheme to make our friend wbill happy.

Hey Andy,

I thought she was finished before but she really looks the part now!

I just wish I could paint figures! I cannot get them to look 'real'. They look like mannikins in shop windows!

I'm fine with the uniforms - no problem but I can't find a good colour for the face, I can't get any depth the the face and they generally detract from a good model.

I'm pretty stuck and would love to start using figures like you as they make such a difference so any help or advice greatly appreciated (no hijack intended Andy)!

A great Panzer I by all accounts. I feel like building another in a very early war Brown/Grey scheme.

ATVB

Ben

Nice job Andy. I have one of these stalled at the painting stage. Just might have to resurrect it after seeing how nice yours turned out!

Nate

  Nice work on the pzr 1,the figs also.I must sit down and actually paint some figs myself,or I could just send them to you. Gonna head on over to that Korean war G.B and watch what happens.Have a great day Andy.

wbill, thank you so much for the nice comment.  It really feels great to have it completed for sure!  I was not satisfied with the figures eye so I give it another shot tonight. 

I had to post this picture because I thought it looked so cool!   Very light flesh tan was applied to eyes...

Used MM acrylic flat black this time instead of using a very fine black marker... it was easier that way.  Lesson learned for me!

I am going to call it done for now before I change my mind.   Off to build an old Italeri kit M-24 Chaffee for Korea War GB which will be my first American armor in 25+ years. 

Nice to see this one get moved over to the "completed" stack Andy, you've done well by the little guy!

Jetmodeler- thank you for the comment that was posted months ago! 

Jeez, I sure got sidetracked with my Marder II for the Marder Madness few months ago that I never finished my little panzer.  I think it is safe to say that it is completed... here it is. 

Applied more burnt umber to the tank especially the wood handles.  Thanks David (hughes2682).  Then I applied MIG pigment and painted the figures that came with the kit.  They were not too bad but far better than typical Tamiya figures.

Closer shots of the figures... first pic was WIP before the eyes correction but I am still not satisfied.

I think I am going to add very small peck of very light tan to the eyes then do the eye pupils again.  I love this Panzer I Ausf A... why?  Because all of my buddies found it difficult to believe how small it was when I showed them. 

Anyway I wanted to say thanks for all of your constructive feedback for this little panzer. 

Andy,

Everytime I look it just looks better and better. Glad to see it has its shoes dirty.

Dave, you were right... it didn't take that long to dry.  I let it dry overnight because I couldn't wait to start my Marder II!  Will work on tool handles this week.

Disastermaster- Thanks for the boots! LOL

Ben- I'd love to buy AK stuff next time I go to a model show. Never thought about using airbrush to apply MIG fixer... gonna try that.  Thanks!

Bill- Thanks for the answer to my question about gluing tracks to the wheels.   It looks like I will have to do it if I want it to sag.  I couldn't resist starting the Marder II while my family is gone so I will wrap up little panzer this week.

Look gerat with the dirty boots!  Thats just what it needed.

Rob

Looking REAL good Andy!

Nate

Moving right along with this one Andy! On the MK track question, you can glue them down if you want to "fix" them in position for sag without any problems but recommend you do that after you're done with the pigment exercise.

When using ordinary water as your carrier, you just need to allow enough time for it to air-dry before you can go to work on it for removal of the excess. Looking forward to the next round of updates.

Looking good now Andy,

I used pigments like this on a build and used a STIFF bristled toothbrush to remove the ecess - the remainder was a very convincing collection of dusty dirt in the recesses, cracks and running gear etc.

Like you say I misted a light coat of MIG pigment fixer oxer the road wheels and tracks with my AB to hold it all in place - it worked perfectly.

I know your experience and skill far exceeds mine so I'm wondering how far you want to go with this teeny Panzer? I like streaks and muck and all sorts! You can't beat some good rust streaking imo. I've also just bought some of the new AK production Streaking Grime and Winter Streaking Grime along with Rust effects and Earth Wash. This stuff is great and the AK DVD is superb!

Keep us posted - I know you must be desperate to get this Marder on the bench now for Marder Madness!

Lovely work - I'm liking the tracks too.

ATVB

Ben

NOW , it's weathered.

NOW, it's BOOTS........

..........instead of shoes.

Andy,

I'll take you up on that .  As for the tool handles, there have been time where I've had to go back and, veerrrryyy carefully touch them up with some Burnt Umber oil paint and some Turpinoid (Blue Can).  

SInce you've used water mixed with your pigments, drying time is usually about an hour. It'll also depend on the temperature and humidity at your bench.  Results may vary .  That's going to look even better yet!

Cheers

Dave

I am afraid I had too much fun applying MIG pigment to my little panzer.  Before I did it, I googled to find out the color of soil in Norway and found plenty of results... very brownish.

I didn't have dark brown MIG.  I recall there is one out there... if so, I need to buy it!  I used a mixture of Dark Mud & Russian Earth with little Industrial City Dirt.  I used filtered water with a drop of soap I learned from you guys.

Here it is... mudded up now!  Applied some on the top too.

Gonna let it dry... I forgot how long I am supposed to let it dry completely?  Of course I will wear mask while I remove the excessive pigment with a stiff brush.  Then apply MIG Pigament fixer... thanks for looking!

Dave- I agree with you about the wood handles.  It looks like previous washes made the oil paint raw umber disappear.  I will apply another coat at the end.  Thanks for good feedback! Owe u a

Jose- Thanks for stopping by!  Love those MK tracks... they were so tiny this time!

Disastermaster- No worries!  I plan to apply MIG pigments (not washes) today.  I am sure it will dirt it up real good... I have couple of reference books on little Panzer with so many great pictures and they were in great condition when they were part of Denmark and Norway invasions.  Thanks for the feedback!   And I NEVER will be tired of your smiley icons!!!

Ben- Not finished... 95% completed... a coat of MIG pigment and #2 pencil then I hope to call it done today if my buddies don't kidnap me again. LOL  Thanks for looking buddy!

Hey DP,

I like her buddy, very nice.

I've seen a lot of your work and it is stunning so........................

• is this build now finished - I'm not sure? If so, did you intend to go for the fresh & clean look?
• If not, are you going to beat her up, ad some streaks, rust and pigment etc?
• She's still looking too glossy? It may be the camera - don't take this the wrong way but this model doesn't look finished - it needs some serious weathering! Otherwise she is looking sweeet!

ATVB

Ben

Time to chime in instead of stalking........

For me it's looking too clean

so what!

I think you've done a wonderful job on this little rig; it's come out very nicely.

Nice looking mini panzer ... and do not worry too much about the tracks... thay look great!

Andy,

Thank you very much and, don't worry about my silence..... I never heard or saw anything.  Nuthin'!

Your Panzer is looking sharp with it's shoes on.  If I may make a comment, The tool handles look very new.  I would think that they would get weathered in a hurry. IMHO.  She's lookin' good.

Cheers

Dave

Panzerwaffe-  Thanks man for stopping by!  Can't wait either because I am anxious to start a new kit (Marder II) as soon as I turn into a bachelor for the weekend!

Dave- Same here as it has been a pleasure following your WIPs especially the current one Churchill!  Please do not tell my wife I might add it to my stash one day...

Bill- Learned something tonight... noticed same thing has happened to my StuG III earlier that I had to tone it down.  Thanks for the tip!  Its a good thing we are fans of MM Lusterless Flat.   I was able to put the "shoes" on tonight....

I just noticed that the center wheel may be floating on the right side (below).  I wonder if you glue MK tracks to the wheels permanently or leave it as it is? 

 It is taking me two hours just to update the Garmin GPS device before my wife and boys leave for West Virginia in the morning... crazy?  But it allowed me to do little more work on the little panzer. 

Andy turns into a bachelor in 8 hours 24 minutes... later!

Nice save on the muffler screen Andy, definitely worth the effort to get it cleared.

Mig washes are oil based which tends to leave behind a slightly glossy sheen but you've found the solution for that with the dull coat application. Looking forward to seeing it with its "shoes" on!

Deafpanzer,

Nice save on the muffler guard!  . Those tracks are looking superb and I love the look of that jackblock. Solid work on this wee beastie.  I for one have been enjoying following this build.  Thank you for posting.

Cheers

Dave

Very nice Andy.  Was definatly worth the sore fingers 100% better now that you cleaned out the guard.  The rear light really pulls toghther the rear end.  Really like the effect you have on all of the wood  Will be waiting to see the tracks go on, the end is near and i am excited to see this little beauty complet.

wbill- Thank you for the kind words. It is always great hearing from you.

Ben- I read your post again and I realized I missed the red lens in the rear... good catch there!  I painted it... considered it done.  Can't believe I missed this one! LOL

Guys-  I think the muffler guard has been fixed!!! Thank you guys for the tip about using sewing needle.  I think it is good now...

 It took me about an hour but it sure was worth every minute... my fingertips are now sore from last night.!  I see I have missed couple so will fix it.  The paint came off in some area so it had to be repainted.  It only need another coat of weathering.

It looks good at farther distance.  I had to apply a coat of MM flat clear because for some reason MIG washes made the little panzer shiny. 

Rear light lens have been painted... thank you Ben!

I hope to install the tracks on later tonight then I will apply a coat of MIG pigments.  Thanks for looking!  Happy Veterans Day to everybody who served for our country.

Nice to see your progress with this one Andy, the tools look sharp and the subtle variations in the panzer gray scheme are definitely enhanced with the washes/filters you've applied.

Ben- Thanks for looking!  I agree... the weathering stage is not over yet.  Need to apply raw umber to pins and others.  I did use the metal brush I use to clean my guns earlier and it worked on one of the guards but the other was too thick.  It is not end of the world... I will try the sewing needle tonight.  If I can't fnish it by Friday, I will put it on a hold... Pvt Mutt will not be happy if I don't start my Marder soon!

Jetmodeler-  Like always thanks for stopping by!   I will give it another shot using a sewing needle.

Marc- Thanks buddy!  It was my first attempt painting pea dot camo... it still needs to highlighted which should be easy to do.  You will be hearing from me over the weekend with my Marder unless I have been kidnapped by Swedish bikini team.

Hey Andy... looking good.  Went back a bit to see what's been happening.  the pea dot camo on the one guys pants is sweet. 

Ditto on the sewing needle... as apposed to a pin... should be pointy enough to poke out those holes.

As Jetmodeller has said I'm sure that these can be poked out - somehow!

I know how small those holes are having built the Dragon variant of this kit as you know and I had to clear mine too.

A pin was far too big so I used a bronze brush that we use for cleaning our shotguns. I just rolled it over the PE applying mild pressure and it worked.

I'm sure this PE can be saved Andy! Have faith!

ATVB

Ben

Andy,

The washes just make it look better, and it looked good before the washes.

I have a suggestion for the muffler covers. If you take a sewing needle and poke it into the holes it should work. Its takes time but its worth it.

Hey DP,

Looking good matey - very nice!

Obviously it will be dullcoated so no pigments will have laid down yet I assume............

Whilst she's still a WIP (you probably have all of this on the 'to do' list anyway) get some sooty pigment on them exhaust pipes(after the dullcoat obviously) and I think the red lens on the rear light needs painting.

Can't wait to see her with the tracks on  - shame about the PE guard though. Can you make a thinly rolled Milliput 'sheet' to drape over it a bit (or something like that)?

So, she'll be done by Friday eh? We'll see!

Keep us posted,

Ben

After being sick with sinus infection, I was able to return to my workspace over the weekend.  Here's an update on my little panzer... I hope it will be done before Friday.  W-H-Y?  Because my wife and boys are taking a 3 days trip to West Virginia and I get to be a bachelor. Y-E-S!  Its a perfect timing to start a new WIP on my Marder II for the Marder Madness!!!

Worked on the tracks again... I realized the tracks were a link too short.   I should have had them checked before painting.  I applied another coat of raw umber as suggested earlier.  Used pencil #2 for the edges...

I tried to fix the muffler guards by stripping with paint thinner.  Here's the good and bad news...

I couldn't fix one of the guards.  I have learned my lesson not to over spray and blow air, etc.   I wonder if there are aftermarket PEs for this so I can fix it completely.  The tools have been added...

Weathered using MIG washes and pigments...

Please keep in mind MIG washes were still wet when I took the pictures.  I will probably apply another coat of washes tomorrow.  I hope I didn't miss anything... thanks for looking! 

Ben- Thanks buddy!  Painting the tools is one of the easiest jobs but it takes time for different paints to dry. 

Doog-  I agree... earlier in my posts I mentioned that I wasn't sure if it needs another coat of Raw Umber. Now you have said it.  LOL  It will be my pleasure to add another coat!  Thanks for your help...

No modeling time... my wife and I are celebrating our 14th wedding anniversary.  I had the chance to check the forums while my wife is on phone with somebody now... maybe she is ordering me some model kits? 

Later, 

deafpanzer

 

I think the tracks are done... next step would be weathering using MIG pigments.  I am a big fan of this big flat paint brush I bought at Hobby Lobby using a coupon... I use it mostly on the tracks.  Painted MM Steel on edges where it would hit the surface and wheels...

That's all folks for now...

Give them a good heavy wash of Raw Umber, and then wait about ten minutes and carefully wipe off the surface with a thinner-wet tissue so you get the color off the top surfaces but leave it in the recesses. They need some "age", IMO.

Looking great Andy!

I'm very impressed with them tools - an excellent wood effect.

I can't wait to see her with some weathering on! Keep us posted!

ATVB

Ben

Jose- LOL!  Yes that would be my next step... I think weathering stage is my second favorite part after building the kit itself.  Thanks for stopping by!  Admired your works and I am not kidding!

Nate-  Thank you for the comment! 

Looking really nice Andy.

Nate

You´re making a nice work on that little panzer. Tools are really cute and nicely painted.

Now ... came on and do not be shy with the pin wash!. That little vechicle need it!

Thanks mg.mikael!!! Looks like #13 is the most popular choice in Panzer I kits. 

Short update... didn't have much time tonight.  Continued to work on the tools and tracks.  Tools are almost completed... only need to paint the clamps.  I applied thinned MM steel to the edges...

I think the tracks are done... next step would be weathering using MIG pigments.  I am a big fan of this big flat paint brush I bought at Hobby Lobby using a coupon... I use it mostly on the tracks.  Painted MM Steel on edges where it would hit the surface and wheels...

That's all folks for now...

Looks like the progress has really flying along since the last time I had a chance to check out your build. She's coming together nicely, and I for one can't wait to see how you'll weather it.

Nice choice of decals, I built my Panzer awhile back using the same markings.

Hey Doog!!! 

Thanks for the comment especially about a bit of a smorabord of my life. LOL  Thought it'd be fun...

I am absolutely with you buddy... both a Dremel tool set and a paintbooth are already on top of my Christmas list.    So I can airbrush in the basement instead of in the garage... too hot in summer & too cold in the winter.  Already did some research on Dremel and found one that may work best for me with least power and cordless for $115 I think. 

I think you will like my wife because of the trees.  She wants to cut down only two because it is way too close to the house especially touching the roof and I want to take down six.  Trust me I have too many trees in the backyard about 50 trees that grass can not grow as you can see in the pic.  I think I will let her win this time...

Thanks again!  I first learned about pre-shading method from YOU 1-2 years ago here in the forums and I think it is working this time after my first two failed attempts on Stug III and 234/1 because I oversprayed covering the previous coats.  Still learning...  

WOW, Andy--a nice WIP you've got going here--not only good work progress photos, but it's a bit of a smorgasbord of your life, lol!

I concur with Bill about tools and reference books--you can never have enough of them! A good Dremel tool is one of the most useful tools you can have in my opinion-something to consider for the future.

Don't cut down any more trees--we need 'em! Get that young 'un out there to rake up! That's what they're there for!

Nice progress on this tank so far. It looks like a pretty hi-quality offering. Pretty cool that they include those tracks, although I would have just as gladly taken regular indy-link if they could make them without the damned knock-out marks!

Bill- Thanks for dropping by!  Agree with you... can't live without those reference books. But please don't expect me not to stop hollering for your help!

Guys, quick update... not much because I spent most of the day raking leaves in our wooded backyard!  Three huge piles like one in the picture... I am seriously thinking about taking down few more trees next year.

It is great having my family back!  Unfortunately my youngest son who is 9 years old came to me with a confession that he broke my 'tank'.  Yikes!  Whew, it was just a minor damage... had to re-attach the MK tracks using super glue.  I know being so young and curious he just wanted to 'play' with the tracks...

I worked on the tools tonight.  For the wood I used MM wood as base paint and allowed it dry for a day. Then I used a stiff brush to paint W&N Burnt Umber oil paint on the wood parts.  For the steel, used MM Gunmetal and I plan to use buffering MM gunmetal and steel next.  Wirecutter is usually much darker than other tools...

I hope to finish the tools tomorrow during the football game... have a good one!

Making good progress on this one Andy, and kudos for your restraint at the LHS! Sometimes it's better to put money into tools and references vs. kits...I've got more "invested" in books and such than I do in kits now although it wasn't always that way.

Tony- Thanks for dropping by!  I bought mine for $11... I didn't care how much as long as it is a lifesaver!  Used it twice last night and I kept telling myself why didn't I get it long time ago.  My wife just paged me... she is on her way and she gave me plenty of hints she wants us to rake the leaves today.  To my temporary lifestyle of three days bachelor... good bye... you have done a good deed to my models! 

Ben- Thanks for the PM.  Will get back to you later today.  That base was my wife's grandma who passed away three years ago.  My wife found those while she was going thru boxes last summer and she thought I could use those for my models.  How thoughtful of her!  I use it for WIP pictures...

Next time you hear from me I will be a married father of two little boys... good bye bachelorhood! 

Hey Andy,

Looking good matey!

I've just dropped you a pm saying I'm looking forward to seeing your build with base paint and decals on!

The figures look great! One day I'll be able to paint figures too!

That wooden base that you have there - that is what I'm after now I've got rid of that photo frame base! That would be perfect! I like the 'lazy boy' stirrer too

I can't believe the size of the shops you guys have over there - my God I think I'd feel faint. My LHS armour section is no bigger than my bedroom (which is pretty small)!

Keep us posted!

ATVB

Ben

Yeah those sure beat a tooth pick. I got one from Micro Mark (no name brand) for $8 last year,love it.

Your Panzer is in the short rows now.

Tony Lee

Rob- Lesson learned... gonna do better next time I will airbrush very little paint at a time and blow air like Tony suggested.  It has been fun anyway!  I will try to clean the exhaust cover but I wasn't in mood for last two days.

Tony- Thanks buddy!  Will try that next time... Mauder II of course! 

Dave- LOL!  Looks like most of us are lucky to have supportive wife... she returns home with the boys tomorrow so tonight is my last night as a bachelor for three days! 

======================================================================

Guys, here's update...

I airbrushed future floor wax on Panzer I last night so I can apply decals so it looks shiny just for now... will tone it down during the weathering stage.  Decals have been applied... only seven decals. 

 Wheels have been installed finally... gonna paint one of the wheel caps next.

I will have to fix one of the decals with white paint because I accidentally damaged it while working on the wheels.  Being impatient I didn't allow the decals to dry completely.  Like I said tonight is my last night as a bachelor I am trying to finish as much as I can...

While working on the decals, I took the liberty to apply decals of rank insignias from Verlinden on the crew of 234/1 I built earlier.  I thought it came out great but it needs to be toned down... flesh painting is next which is not my favoite part...

While a coat of future was drying for atleast 24 hours, I painted the MK tracks following the steps I learned from you my friends...  1- Primed with flat black paint a while ago.  2- Airbrushed coat of MM Gunmetal and MM Metalizer Gunmetal  3- Painted thinned burnt umber.  I think it needs another coat...

Best thing happened today... being a bachelor I took the liberty to visit a local small hobby shop 30 minutes away here in Indianapolis I have been hearing about. I was so glad I checked it out...

I thought I died and went to heaven!   There were so many great kits and they were ALOT cheaper than HobbyTown USA and Hobby Lobby where I have been going for last 2-3 years!!!    Those two stores will not see much of me from now on unless I only need a set of paint...

Believe it or not I didn't buy any kit this time... doing my BEST to control myself but I managed to buy three reference books from Squadron, DML's recently released German figures set (you gonna love those) and the best purchase was this tool...

Stirring paint is a breeze now... no more stirring with toothpicks or whatever I can find. 

Thanks for looking...

Buy me a ? Heck, not only will I but, I will have no recollection of that ever happening.  Done!  

The important thing is that she supports your hobby. Definitely a keeper.

Cheers

Dave

First off I just mist the screen until colored but if I should clog up the holes I blow a quick puff of breath on the screen and knock the paint out of the holes.

The wife says i'm windy anyway.

Tony Lee

Very nice work, painting looks great  I was also admireing those MG barrels.  I also had a problem with dryed paint in exhast covers.  I did a combination of what W Bill and Wing Nut had said.  I dampen from the back with thinner and scrubbed with a stiff brush and all came out with no problems.  Back on an even earlier build I tryed soaking in thinner and the paint turned into a big gummy mess and never really got all the paint off.  Try scrubbing gently, not to damage the PE.  Really happy you are back too building and posting, have been waiting

Rob

wbill, thanks!  I will not use the pin... I thought it might work. I will try to locate the brush and clean from inside.  Can I use the same kind of brush w/ metal wires that we use to clean guns or will a standard toothbrush do the job? 

Looking forward to your next update on Sunday!

Andy,

Nice work on the paint job!

DON'T USE THE PIN approach to cler the guards...the DML PE is very fine and it's very easy to push the pin tip in too far in an effort to clear the paint. Use the brush approach from the inside...possibly even dampen the underside with a little thinner first as well in order to clear the mesh.

Dave- LOL  If I can buy you a , will you ?  Thanks for looking... my wife do support my hobby but she isn't crazy if I spend too much $$$. 

Jetmodeler- You betcha!  Worked on my model for 4 hours til 2am and I had to get up early for work this AM.  Guess it happens when wife isn't home to drag me into our bed! 

Ben- Thanks!  I know I have been absent for last three weeks... many things going on but I am back for good and I am on a roll now.  I plan to include figures but not sure if I will have time to build a diomara for this and two previous models I built.  Thanks for the tip about using fine thin pin to poke holes... will try tonight. 

DF- Thanks buddy!  Lesson learned... gonna stock up replacement parts for my Iwata airbrush that Hobby Lobby doesn't sell.  Even HobbyTown USA don't stock Iwata parts...

Marc- Thanks!  Will try very fine thin pin first... if not, stiff brush would be next.  If it doesn't work, will a cup of paint thinner remove the paint completely?  I doubt it cause I used primer too.   In my reference book, I see many pictures of damaged muffler guard so maybe I can go for this if nothing works.  It is my third build and I am still learning...

I really appreciate your taking time to make comments... this hobby is the best thing! 

Andy, before you redo the guards try a stiff brush from the inside to poke out the holes.  If it doesn't look good you are no worse off since you will just end up doing 'em over again anyway.

Appears that the airbrush repair was worth the wait. This is looking very good!

Hey DP,

Looking good - the shading looks great! Don't worry about the muffler guards. I had the same thing happen to me on my Panzer PE guards but a LIGHT blast just after the paint had been put on via the AB cleared it fine. Always spray from from inside the muffler guard outwards or obviously the paint job will suffer.

I did this before on my Panzer I Ausf B and was planning to let the paint set and poke clear the blocked holes with a fine pin. I got bored of doing this after about 2 minutes so I took a Phosphor Bronze brush that we use for beaning our 12 bore shotgun barrels and rolled it around over the muffler - it worked perfectly.

I wondered where you had been - check out my WIP as I'm nearly there. The Magic Tracks are on and are painted base 'Gunze Steel' and I've drybrushed the raised areas on the tracks with Tamiya 'Flat Aluminium' (nice colour - not too shiny but just right imo). Tomorrow I've a bit of pigment to add to the running gear - not much as there wouldn't have been much dust around in a freezing cold Norway I imagine!

I've also got to fit and paint the MG barrels, maybe add some stowage and she's complete. I'm then going to make a small base using a picture frame, it will be a basic base covered in grass with snowy areas (I'll make snowy areas using Vallejo Snow & Foam that I have - I'm planning on having the tank positioned toward the background and in the foregound I'm going to make a puddle and am hoping to make it look frozen (I'll use my Water Effects stuff for the puddle) and am going to place a couple of 1/35 balsa wooden boxes as stowage effect and I'll also find a few thing to scatter about (maybe).

What have you got planned - a base or anything?

I'm hoping that this build will be all but complete by Sunday evening - woohoo! As it's my birthday on 4th November the kit my parents are buying me is my next WIP (Dragon kit # 6228, Sherman IC Firefly) so if I do finish I going to get all of my models off of the display shelf and tidy them up and improve the figures - roll on my Birthday! 

Keep us posted on your build DP - I'm looking forward to seeing these tracks on and the build weathered!

ATVB

Ben

Lookin good so far Andy. Glad to hear your airbrush is working again. Hopefully you can make up for the 3 weeks in the 2 days.

Please don't tell them I said this...

Hmmmmm..... And just what is our silence worth to you?  I'm sorry, I couldn't even keep a straight face while typing that.  My wife knows I do the same thing when she goes out of town for conferences.  Cram in the bench time whilst you can.  Speaking of which, you've made some nice progress since I've last seen this wee beastie.  Down time on the AB stinks.  I am glad to hear that yours is up and running again. 

Cheers

Dave

Thanks Rob for dropping by!  Ben, you can see I am catching up...

Guys, it has been three weeks since my last update.  New part for my broken airbrush has arrived a week later but my parents from FL were in town visiting for a week (mom will not leave me alone but I  her!) then I had to go away on a business trip to NC for five days.  Now I am back and the BEST part is that I will be a bachelor for three days... no wife and no kids even no dog too... they all are away on a fall break trip while I am stuck working BUT I am loving it!  Please don't tell them I said this...

With my airbrushing work like new, I applied highly thinned MM Grey Panzer (50/50) so it will not hide the pre-shading and it worked better this time.

Painting wheels can be no fun but not if you do this...

Circle template is the way to go... it even worked for those tiny wheels!

Gotcha!  Painted wheels in minutes... I  you my circle template!

Letting the paint dry for at least 20 hours before I can airbrush a coat of acrylic Future for the decals.  

Unfortunately not everything went smoothly, I accidentally applied too much paint on one of the muffler guards as you can see...

I think I have to do it again... I doubt I can use green stuff Doog used on his Patton recently because I used an enamel MM paint.  Will a paint thinner do the job if I can let it soak in a cup overnight?  If not, any tip to remove enamel paint off the PE?

Thanks again for looking!  Two more night of bachelor life for me...

I'm not liking this DP!

Lespaul's Panzer I ends up in the bin after a painting disaster of some sort & your AB has broke! Are these Panzer I's cursed?

I remember when I built my original Ausf B and I accidently melted half the Fruil tracks that were too near the stove (Mum turned it on without knowing).

I'll be painting my Panzer I this weekend (I'm going for the pre shade too - the last two times it failed but the last attempt nearly worked, just one AB pass too much) so hopefully she'll be ok. I know how to do it it now - in theory anyway.

Keep the blog running buddy!

ATVB

Ben

Think this one is coming along beautifully.  That pre shading should do wonders for your final coat.  Sorry to hear about the airbrush.  Hope you get all back running shortly.  Sounds as if your track situation is all worked out but if you want more for anything, I to have some spares I could send you.  Those tracks look great also.

Rob

detailfreak- LOL!  Sure, I email you the scanned instructions this PM.  Just let me know if you got it OK.

jetmodeler- Thanks for looking!  Glad it didn't break down earlier or later when I am doing the final phase of painting!!! 

Bill- Exactly!   Very good thing it broke during pre-shading... no big deal there... gonna look around for a replacement.  I can't wait to paint panzer gray on it!!!  Thanks for dropping by!

Condolences on the airbrush demise but at least it wasn't while you were applying the base coat so there's some bright side at least!

I have missed a lot since I last saw this thread. Nice job so far Andy.

Sorry to hear about your airbrush. That sucks when it breakes during pre-shading.

        Sorry to hear about the airbrush Andy,hope you can get it fixed at a reasonable or even better yet,no charge.As for your tracks ,well you know how much I enjoy B.S in you guys. Hey bud you were saying you could perhaps send a scan of your instruction sheet. If you can send it to my e-mail.I'll P.M it to you ok.. The little one is looking good so far keep us posted.

Nate- Those MK tracks will look great on your Wespe... I guarantee!

lespauljames- Thanks for the comment... I still have a long way to go!

Update on my little panzer... didn't do much because things have been crazy at work as we are relocating our office.  No fun!  I finally did some airbrushing tonight as I haven't done much through the summer because it was too hot in the garage.  Unfortunately something went wrong with my airbrush gun... you will find out why.

MK tracks were primed with flat black from rattle can.  Then they were airbrushed with thinned MM gunmetal.  Washes will be next...

Panzer was primed with flat black too.  Center panels and open spaces were airbrushed with thinned MM light gray.  Am trying this method to see if shades will be more visible this way hopefully. 

While I was airbrushing, something went wrong and it was starting to shoot paint badly.  Good thing I was almost done and it was only in its pre-shading stage.  Thinned panzer gray will cover everything... if you can look at the wheel closely, paint was shot everywhere!  What the heck...

I took the airbrush gun apart and found the cause... I couldn't believe it!  A small piece fell off its rod and it won't be re-attached as I tried everything to fix it but no luck.  It is an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and it is about a year and half old! 

I am afraid this part has been damaged for good unless you can tell me otherwise.  I will stop by Hobby Lobby where I bought it using 40% off coupon of course to see if they sell a replacement or not.  Has this happened to you before? 

Thanks for looking!

pro job so far Andy!

The tracks look great Andy. I have some MK's that I plan on using for my Wespe build, ( whenever I get to it!), and I hope I have the patience to do them justice.

Nate 

detailfreak, not sure what you meant by tracks are inside out... hope I didn't do it the wrong way?  

Hey your tracks are inside out.

Thanks wing-nut and Bill for stopping by! 

Quick update... completed the another half tonight without any issue this time.  Pvt Mutt and detailfreak, no need to send me your unused magic tracks.  Appreciate your offer... thanks again!

The hardest part of modeling is over.  Everything is ready to be primed and painted over the weekend.  Weather is supposed to be much cooler finally so I can do the airbrushing in the garage! 

Have a good one!

Tracks are looking good Andy!

Hey Andy.  Sorry for the late check in but I have been scarce around here lately.  Looks like this one is relay coming together nicely.

Hey detailfreak!  I know it has been a while but I am very glad that you are no longer unemployed.   You will find me here especially in GBs as usual.  Thanks for the offer on Magic Tracks... will let you know how my other side of MK tracks come out. 

Tony, it was very nice of you to offer.  Right now I am OK as long as I don't screw up the other side tonight.  If I do, I will definitely take on your offer!  Believe it or not I haven't tried those Magic Tracks before...

Thanks buddy... I have been having fun watching your process on M7! 

Up to you my friend. If Andy has a need at least we've got him covered.

Tony Lee

Hey Tony I do believe that I have a bunch of the Magic Tracks you sent my way left over.If Andy wants those I'll just forward them his way. That way you'll retain a full set,just in case Andy,those MK's will add a nice touch of realism to your build. Everything here is kind of in limbo as I started the 12:30-9:00 pm shift at the new job and the house kind of goobles up the rest of the time! But as a good friend of mine once said" I'LL BE BACK"..

Andy I think i've got  some Magic Tracks from my Panzerjager 1 if those would help if need be. BTW shipping free.

Tony Lee

Guys, thanks for looking and making comments earlier! 

Bill, there has been plenty of great football games for last two weeks.  Thanks for the great tip about using the masking tape to hold the links.  That's what I had in mind too and it helped.

Here's my quick update... being married and having two young boys you can be distracted very easily!  I haven't touched my workspace until tonight and I finally did one side of MK tracks... yes, 88 of those little bastards but with help of the masking tape to hold them down really helped!!!

Here it is... 88 tracks in one piece now!  I still need to remove and sand down some sprues.  One thing surprised me... the kit came with ONLY one spare track and of course I screwed up one while assembling leaving me with NO spare now.  Too close to call!

I hope I can do another half tomorrow so everything can be ready to be primed and painting over the weekend.  Have a good one!

Football games are the perfect background for assembling MK track runs, something I've done many times. If you want to give yourself more of an edge, you can try using a strip of masking tape to hold the links (especially as you get the runs together in longer pieces) as an ad-hoc jig while you add new links to it along with the pins. Looks like you're making good progress and the bin organization is an excellent way to keep track of all the parts.

I have one thing to say. Have fun with those, 87-88 tracks.

Workable Panzer I tracks.. in plastic & 1/35 scale!

Yipes that looks like a painful process, results should be worth the effort. Great job Deafpanzer, looking forward to more WIP's.

Hey DP!

Looks like you are getting on better than I did with them bloody MK Panzer I tracks! Good job!

Surely you must agree with me that the 're'moulded' guide horn is a PITA and doesn't locate very well? I assembled a short run of 6 links and it broke up in 2 areas where the pre-moulded horn hadn't located properly and I sent ages on this length making sure it was ok.I know Wbill swears by these MK tracks. I'm sure that the bigger tracks (Tiger, Panther etc) that require you to insert a pin into each side are great but these diddy one's with only one insert? I'm not sold I'm afraid I'm sure you'll do ok though!

Have you thought about trying to build a jig? I'm sure if you do a Google search or a search on here you'll find something.

I laughed when I saw your photo of the tray with dividing bits to allow you to separate the different track elements up - I do the same! I also have a 10 tray stacking pack that you might see in an office where employees ut there papers. I label each tray A through H and the top one is called 'other' - I split all my lettered srues up onto these to help finding them that much quicker! Yes, you've guessed it, I'm VERY OCD too! A handy thing to have when you're a modeller imo (in most cases).

ATVB

Ben

Nate, thanks for the comment!

Bill, thanks for the information abt old panzers!  Always learning as  I am not just a modeler but I am WW2 history buff for an obvious reason.  Too bad about Colts... it was only the first game but its defense just fell apart. 

Here's quick update... worked on MK links tonight during football games especially during the Ravens vs Jets game cause it was boring.  Th work on the links has been so tenacious but it is coming out good so far.  I am not going to lie!  I wish there was a jig for those TINY Panzer 1 tracks!!!  You will see why...

 A very good sprue cutter is a MUST for this... that way you don't have to sand that much afterward. 

Don't you love those pink sanding files!?!?  More cutting...

 Fortunately I suffer mild OCD so I like to keep things very organized... ready for the assembly line!

Assembling the links... my fingers were too fat... it really helps to use a tweezer to insert the pins to hold the links together.  This is where I wish there was a jig base to hold the links down.

Back to the sprue cutter...

 VOILA!  That's only the first set of five links.  Will do one at a time.  A total of 87-88 links per side.  God help me...

 Hope this helps... its not that bad.  Go Chiefs!

Ben,

People often forget just how dependent the Germans were on what were considered "obsolete" Pz models at the outbreak of hostilities through 1941-42 to equip their PzDivs. The Pz I and II were the most numerous vehicle type in the German inventory throughout Poland and Fance 1939-40 and were still serving in front-line roles at the time of Operation Barbarossa as you can see from Andy's post/link. The Pz III, with it's 5.0cm L/42 gun was the main battle tank of the Panzer Divisions with the Pz IV serving in a support role, and German industry was having a hard time filling the demand as more and more Pz Divisions were being created and battle losses were incurred. The Pz 38(t) for example was continuously produced as a gun-tank (even though its armor and 3.7cm gun were inferior in particular to Russian armor it was facing) right up through mid-'42 as was the Pz II for example before their production lines were shifted over to other vehicle types such as the Marders. It wasn't until mid-late '42 that the Pz IV with it's longer barrel 7.5cm gun began to replace the Pz III as the MBT and other obsolete designs began to be withdrawn from service and/or sent back for conversion into more effective platforms as tank-killers.

Ryan- You snuck in your comment while I was typing... thanks for the comment about the barrels.  I still remember your Panzer 1... it was a beauty!  I looked at it few times to make sure I am doing the right thing except for the barrels.

Looking forward to some pics, Andy.

Nate

LBJ- Thanks for looking!  That's why I am having fun watching your work on the newer Tristar version of Panzer 1 to see the differences.  You have been doing great!

Ben- Crazy, huh? That's why I had to build this little panzer.  I am tempted to build King Tiger next so I can place those two next to each other to show the evolution of tanks during WW2.  But it will not happen until I am gone with all GBs I signed up.  Maybe somebody will start Big Cats GB soon???????

jetmodeler- It was great of you to stop by! I agree... I don't regret my decision to use the AM MG barrels even tho we all know its the wrong type.  Let's hope my wife doesn't know the difference...

Quick update on my Panzer I:  I mentioned I was spending the night at my inlaw and I decided to bring the MK links along to do some cutting and sanding to kill time.  It took me about an hour to just to cut links off the sprues alone.  Haven't started sanding but there won't be much cause the sprue cutter did pretty good most of times.  Will post more pictures tonight... Go Colts!!!

Hinksy

The thing that I have never worked my head around re the Pz I is the engine / bhp etc?

My stats book states that the Maybach (I think) egine runs at 100bhp (Torque unknown).

Now my little runaround car (Ford Ka) has a 60 bhp engine and can hardly move when there are 3 passengers - luckily I only bought it for my use for the 'to & from' work journey!

How on earth does this 6 ton tank, running at 100bhp move at all, especially with crew and esecially towing lorries!?

I'm not a mechanic and know little about engines so I'd really apreciate someone explaining this to me!

It may have 100 bhp (brake horsepower?), but the tank's output was (i think) closer to 60 hp (bhp doesn't account for power loss due to other resistance in the system).

1 horsepower is 550 foot punds/ second.

(torque * RPM) / 5252 = horsepower

So with a constant horsepower, your RPM and Torque are inversely proportional. So by decreasing your RPM (top speed on a flat road for a pz 1 was like 50 km/h or about 30 mph), your torque becomes significantly higher. I could go through the math but that should explain it adequately.

 And the build is looking very clean- and I still like those MG barrels- they look sooooo sharp.

Ben, I would imagine that its all in the transmission and how they are geared?

Andy,

Looks like your off to a good start. I really like the MG barrels. The sure do look a lot better than the kit provided ones.

Hey DP,

400+ Panzer I's at the Russian Front! Unbelivable!

The thing that I have never worked my head around re the Pz I is the engine / bhp etc?

My stats book states that the Maybach (I think) egine runs at 100bhp (Torque unknown).

Now my little runaround car (Ford Ka) has a 60 bhp engine and can hardly move when there are 3 passengers - luckily I only bought it for my use for the 'to & from' work journey!

How on earth does this 6 ton tank, running at 100bhp move at all, especially with crew and esecially towing lorries!?

I'm not a mechanic and know little about engines so I'd really apreciate someone explaining this to me!

She's looking tidy so far btw buddy! I've got my sprues sat in front of me and I'm currently working out the best way to tackle mine - I'll be starting in a minute!

ATVB

Ben

really nice clean building so far! keep it up

LPJ

Ben, believe it or not... I found this information when I googled for Panzer I role at the Russian front.

==============================================

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panzer_I

The final major campaign in which the Panzer I formed a large portion of the armored strength was Operation Barbarossa, 22 June 1941. The 3,300 German tanks included about 410 Panzer I's.^[80] By the end of the month, a large portion of the Red Army found itself trapped in the Minsk pocket,^[81] and by 21 September Kiev had fallen, thereby allowing the Germans to concentrate on their ultimate objective, Moscow.^[82] Despite the success of Germany's armor in the Soviet Union, between June and September most German officers were shocked to find their tanks were inferior to newer Soviet models, the T-34 and Kliment Voroshilov (KV) series.^[81] Army Group North quickly realized that none of the tank guns currently in use by German armor could penetrate the thick armor of the KV-1.^[83] The performance of the Red Army during the Battle of Moscow and the growing numbers of new Soviet tanks made it obvious the Panzer I was not suitable for this front.^[84] Some less battle-worthy Panzer I's were tasked with towing lorries through mud to alleviate logistics problems at the front.^[84]

^{==========================================================}

^{Hard to believe that the Germans still used about 410 Panzer Is... probably for infantry and recon supporting roles.  Hope this information is correct.  Again, I will check my reference books for further information.} 

^{Later buddy... its time to visit my in-laws and we are spending the night. GRRR! Wish me luck.  Maybe I can bring the MK links and do all of the cutting and sanding there...}

Hey DP,

I've built the Dragon Pz I Ausf B already but it didn't turn out well - I wish to rectify it this time and I love the extra detailing on this build, particularly the interior! I love these little Panzers!

I think they were obsolete by that stage of the war - I might be wrong but they probably would have served more of infantry support role.

ATVB

Ben

Yes, that was the word I was trying to think... jig!  Thanks for the information.  It is only my second MK links so I am still learning you can tell.  LOL!  Now you got the Panzer I bug!!!  Who will be next victim?  I can always check my reference book about Panzer 1 to find out if they were used against the Russians or not. 

Can't wait to see your DML kit... I won't be surprised if it has higher parts count than my old Tristar kit.  Good luck buddy!

Hey DP,

I think you mean a jig? With MK's you only get a jig if you have guide horns to insert on both sides, obviously this little set only uses inserts on one side.

Anyway, she is looking great! I've decided to put my new StuG into my stash until I get my ATAK Zimmerit ordered. I'm going to build my.................

...................Dragon Panzer I Ausf A instead!

That means we can compare notes and the Panzer I will still qualify for the GB if I use Polish markings! Anything East of Germany apparently!

ATVB

Ben

Ben and MG, I overlooked your comments earlier... jeez, being 40 years is rough already. LOL  Thanks for looking!  Hope those little MK links are not as hard as my last one I used for Stug III.  I think it will require more cleaning...  

I just realized that MK links didn't come with some kind of base whatever you call it that holds the links while being assembled?  I looked everywhere in the box and it must not have been included.  How would you have done it without that assembling base for MK links?  I assume using a tape turned upside to hold the links will work? 

Here's a quick update on the PE muffle guards I worked on this morning... it was fun!

First I used my Excel knife's handle to bend the PEs. Then I used one of my carver tools that my dentist gave me (I think she likes me alot) because its handle had smaller circular width to fit the mufflers perfectly.  It worked like a charm...

The PEs are not glued to the hull yet until I am done painting the mufflers first.

I realized there was seams on the pipes.  It wasn't easy removing those but using the back of excel knife helped a bit.  The kit was flawless very little seams and ejection marks to be removed or sanded away but not with the pipes unfortunately.  Then I applied Zap-a-Gap super glue to hide the gaps around the mufflers.  No picture for this yet.  More to come...

Have a great weekend... always remember 9/11! 

Dave- LMAO!  Maybe that day will come if we ever run into each other at some big show... you never know... we will have to do it over .  Thanks for dropping by!

Bill- Crap! Yeah, I figured that the MG 34 set may be incorrect and the picture was fuzzy!  I just turned 40 years old...  Well, like I said I'd rather not to use those crappy MG barrels that came with the kit and place another order and wait for another week or longer.  I learned my lesson... do better job doing research on barrels before I place orders!!!

Too bad... wish Tristar didn't drop those MK links... I am a big fan now.  Your fault... but I love it!  I rather to work on this older kit with MK links this time than the newer kit with full interior because I need a break after my recent builds StuG III B and 234/1 with full interior if you recall. 

Like always thanks for your help!

You've gotten this one together in pretty good time Andy, looks good so far. As you've discovered, the Pz I used MG13s and not MG34s but once painted they won't stand out as being all that different in the long run and you overcame the biggest difficulty which was getting them mounted in the turret!

The pic you've got are still MG13s but fitted with longer flash suppressors. There were variations on this tried particularly in the Spanish Civil War and that's what accounts for the different look you see there. Looking forward to the next round of progress!

Tristar kits don't generally come with MK links, it was something they tried out with their original Pz I kits but later dropped in favor of static indys which is the norm for all the other kits they produce now. Later Pz I kits that they produced don't have the MKs in them. HTH!

Andy,

That is a sweet deal. Twenty bucks AND MK tracks.  You scored!!!  I'll be following this build sir.  Buy the way, I'd be willing to learn some foul signing.  At least that way no one could hear me drop another F-bomb like I did at work the other night.

Cheers

Dave

Nice lookin' panzer so far, the AM barrels add a nice touch! For $20 you got one sweet kit, the MK tracks don't come with many Tristar kits so you got a great deal. The later Panzer 1 kit from Tristar doesn't come with MK tracks but instead includes a full interior. Either way you got a great deal and I'll be lookin' forward to seeing this one built.

These are MK tracks indeed. I have the Dragon Panzer I Ausf A c/w interior in my stash - my next WIP!

I ordered thise set from Hannants but found them VERY difficult to work with so returned them and bought Friuls instead. They just refused to work and fell into pieces when I lifted the short length up that I made!

I put that down to them having a pre-moulded guide horn and only one horn that you insert yourself. lus they are about the smallest track in 1/35 that you'll ever see!

Saying that DP, not wanting to put you off, a lot of folks have had great success with this particular MK track kit. Being careful and patience will pay dividends! Perhaps it's just me!

Looking lovely so far btw!

ATVB

Ben

Thanks Jester for looking!  Glad you liked the MG barrels.  That's why I had to go for those even tho it may be the wrong type.  I just can't touch the kit MGs... too toxic! 

Hey Nate!  Long time no talk... thanks for stopping by!  I didn't realize this kit came with MK tracks too. The box doesn't show that it comes with MK tracks and it just shows 'Workable Tracks'.  It may not be from MK directly but it looks like to me.  It made me wonder if all Tristar kits come with one?  Here's a closer picture of the tracks...

Are those the MK tracks?  I noticed that it will require little more work cutting off the sprues off unlike the one I worked on for my StuG III B earlier.  Maybe it is an older version of MK tracks?

Very nice job so far Andy. That kit came with MK tracks, and the figures too? I think $20 was a good deal!

Nate

Those mg barrels are schweet! Great looking build so far!

Got a scan from another of our friends and nieghbors here ,but it was for a later offering from Tristar,more PE and such oh yea and  interior assembly.Of which my kit has none.

OH NO!  You got the Panzer 1 bug too!  I better send some of my 'good looking' nurses over to help you. LOL  Nearly half of my stash came from evilBay... no question about it!  I'd be more than happy to help out... I can scan and email you the instructions if it helps you finish your ongoing exciting match game.

You hit the nail on the head about having friends here in the forum. 

Man you must be a mind reader or something!!!! I just finished one side of magic tracks on my tristar pzr I A. I'll be darned,great minds do think alike.My kit was an evilbay win, ten bucks or so.Seller called it a test shot. Which meant that it was a short run to see how good the molds were. Also no tracks no instructions ,no parts call-out tabs on the sprues.Did snag a set of Dragons Magic Tracks from our very own Tony"the Mutt" Lee. Friends like Tony are very hard to find nowadays.So Deafpanzer my friend I will be keeping a close eye on you and your very first armor blog,never know I may be able to figure out where some of the parts go.