Problems with washes

There's been lots of questions and answers in those forums about washes. You could do a search for 'Wash' or 'Washes'. However, it's probably best if you use different type of paints for different layers. For instance, I often use acrylics for priming my model, followed by enamels for the camouglage, itself followed by washes made with water-based paints, such as the ones you'd find in any artist/craft stores. I'm talking about those paints in little tubes. As such, the three different layers of paints will not react with each other. If you do not want to go that way, then make sure your camouflage is really dry (days) before 'sealing' it with something like Future, then apply your wash.

dont do that! mix 1 part acrylic paint (testor) 3 parts water and 1 part dishwasher soap.

Dish soap? The kind you use in the sink or the machine? I don't think I've heard of this before.

I still think waterbased paints are best for washes, as they can easily be removed if you've overdone it... or if your mixture still leaves patches... And it's the stuff you use to clean dishes in the sink, yes. Add a drop or two of white vinegar to lessen risks of patches...

Testors brush cleaner? The stuff used to clean off paint from your brush? Maybe it does work, but I have never tried it - always used acrylic paints. You probably have to make sure you have the ratio right for it to work.

I must say that I have used water based washes with acrylic paints, and I prefer enamel paints for washes. Water does not get into those crevasses as wall, and leaves rings sometimes. I suspect this is because water is a polar liquid (beads up) while oil is not. I prefer using enamel paints thinned with turpentine. The ratio for me is really up to how I’m feeling that day. A lot of thinner, to a little paint, then test on the bottom of the tank, or some pre painted scrap (always better to go with too much turpentine). If your having a problem with the previous layers of paint, I suggest that you make sure and wait two days for your coats to dry (if still using enamels). If that still does not work, try putting on a gloss coat, this will also make applying decals easier. Then when your washes are done, finish it off with a dull coat.

I always start with enamel paint for a base coat, let dry for two days, then apply the colors I want in acrylic (fast drying time, and easy clean up) and finally wash with enamel based paint. I don’t want to discount any of the previous posts, but this way seems to work pretty well. Oh ya, I have also had really good results with artists oils for washes. Hope this helps.

there was on article in finescale modeler about washes. the soap makes the paint easy to remove. u use the kind that u use for the dishes. believe me, it works.

HHMMMM.....wouldn't hurt to try the soap on a test model

I tried adding the dish washing liquid to my acrylic water wash and it did improve it greatly. Before it was leaving rings. How do I get rid of those rings?

You ran into two problems, the first was your selection of thinner and the second the use of two paints with the same base.

1. Brush cleaner is not the same as thinner. It's designed not just to thin the paint, but to clump it so that it will sink and leave you "clear" brush cleaner to work with. In the future, you need to select the right thinner for the job. Enamels can be thinned with paint thinner and acrylic based paints can be thinned with water.

2. As other posters have mentioned, one of the problems you saw with your wash was that the thinning agent of the wash was the same agent used by the base coat that you were covering. When you do this, the thinning agent lifts and liquifies the base and makes it run (sometimes it will also bubble).

To avoid this alternate the types of paint you use. Personally, I use enamels for my primer, base, top coats, and dry brushing. Then I'll use acrylics for washes. Washes are really where you run into the most problem because you've got such a high concentration of thinning agent vs pigment. By switching paint types the thinning agent for the wash can't affect the paint layer under it.

hth

the dish detergeant helps to break the surfce tension of the water.
this improves the flow, reduces beading, and rings.

if you are doubtful, try the following:
take a small glas dish and add some water.
shake some black pepper on the surface.
it will likely float on the top.
rub your finger across the top of the liquid detergeant bottle,
or just rub a drop between your thumb & forefinger.
touch your finger to the water's surface.

i use artist's watercolors for my washes.
thinned w/ tap water, and w/ a drop of detergeant.
while i admit the oils may be better,
i like always having thinner on hand at the tap. :-)
and i never have to worry abt what the base coat paint type is.
water won't hurt it.

the vinegar i have not tried yet.
but i will on my next model!
anything for an edge.

if you don't have a test model to experiment on,
at least start on a hard to see spot on your model.
i started on the bottom of the hull just to be safe.

good luck,
ed.

Well, here's what I do. I gloss coat the tank, and let it dry for a few days. Then I get:

1) mineral spirits
2) artists oils (some black and some very dark brown)

I mix eighteen parts mineral spirits to one part black and one part burnt umber. Or said another way, nine parts spirits to one part paint, and the paint is a mix of black and burnt umber.

I use a big brush to put the wash over the entire vehicle, doing one surface at a time as evenly as I can, but trying to make sure I work the paint into the recessed areas.

I think it's really important to make the wash too thin rather than too thick, as you can go back and put more, but it's harder to ge back and take it off.

About a half hour after I put it on, I look at the model. Did the oils build up in a way I don't like? If so, I get a cotton ball, dip it in spirits and gently wipe the wash down, toward the bottom of the tank. I don't rub too hard! Just gentle wiping. How to do this really depends on where it is on the tank and so on.

I am not as satisfied with acrylics as with oils, because they dry too fast and the water doesn't run into crevices as well as the mineral spirits. I find you have more time to fix any problems with an oil wash too. And maybe most important, acrylic washes look different when they dry to when they go on, more so than oils do. But whatever works for you is good!

I use acrylic washes when I want it to look like dirty water has run down the t ank, like a filty tank has just been rained on recently.

The suggestion to use dish detergent when using water to make a wash is to break the surface tension of the water so that the wash can work properly. It's a goo suggestion, just don't overdo it.

Hope this helps!