M48A0 With Paint Now

There were shots of them at Checkpoint Charlie during the Berlin Crisis. Best place to start googling. There used to be one at the Wilson Gate entrance at Knox, but it's gone now.

The old Squadron" M48 in Action" book had a few shots of the early A0s as did the Osprey book, if that's any help.

The Hunnicut Patton book also has lot of shots of the A0.

Rob, RBaer, & Bronto;

 Thanks for the leads on more reference material.  I have the Osprey book but not the squadron book.  I'll stop by my LHS and pick that up tomorrow.  Went onto Amazon looking for the Hunnicut book.  I had seen it referenced in other Patton threads I had looked at over time here but had never gone looking  for it......$400.00 on Amazon, not in the budget for now.   I did sort out one of my questions w/google images, found two different A0's, one with holes in the outer sprockets and another without.  Guess it'll be my call on that detail. 

Thanks again for the quick feedback.  If I can get this one off the ground and make some steady progress I try and post some in progress pic's

Gary 

About the rear adjusting idler, it seems to have vanished within the M48A2 version with some A2s having it and A2Cs not. Just an educated guess there.

In Osprey's New Vanguard #31, The M47 and M48 Patton Tanks, there is a photo of a US Army M48A1 with mud holes in the sprocket carrier on page 24. It also has the rear adjustment idler.

Another point to note is that sometime in the M48's lifespan, the hull went from 3 support rollers to 5 support rollers. I am not as familiar with the variations of the M48 and M48A1, but I believe the M48A2 used 3 support rollers and the M48A3 used 5 support rollers (as seen in the Tamiya kit).

I do know that the M48A5s were all modernization rebuilds so the support roller numbers depended on whether the tank began life as an M48, M48A1, M48A2, or M48A3. I believe the M48A4 did not exist but was a plan to place old M60 turrets on the M48A3 hulls. The M60 hulls were to live on with M60A2 turrets, but this modernization never happened so subsequently the turrets weren't available for the M48A4s.

I remember turning my nose up at the Hunnicutt books at the Armor School bookstore because they were nearly $100. Some are worth 4 times that amount today.

Have you also tried Patton Mania? http://www.patton-mania.com/

This build of the CMD conversion may be of some use to you: http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/modern/mmm48/mmm48.htm 

Rob,

Very useful/insightful information, I’ve had been to Patton mania long ago but had forgotten about it.  A link there has got me on to a thread from 2006 at another site where two tankers from Knox in the 60’s-70’s go into some nice detail about the history behind the rear adjusting idler on the M47 & early 48’s and how it became un-necessary when the A2’s came out.   From how I understand the conversation, from the M48A2 though the A5, and the entire M60 series, track tension was adjusted by the forward most wheels on either side.

 I also need to update my references.  The Osprey book I have on the 47/48’s is #29 from 1982.  I’ll be looking for the new #31 book as well as the squadron book once the power comes back on at my LHS (seems like the snow storm has slowed the hobby down quite a bit here in the North East)

From my research all the A0’s & A1’s seem to have the 5 return rollers so I should be okay there. 

Nice link too on Mike M’s build @ Missing Lynx. Some really great work creating an A1 out of a conversion kit more suited for an A0.

Thanks Again,

Gary

I remembered getting into some conversations regarding M48A0 at George Bradford's AFV News:

http://www.com-central.net/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=7254&highlight=m48a0
http://www.com-central.net/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=11575&highlight=m48a0

Couple of useful photos of the original M48s in those two threads. It's a good group, mainly old tankers talking about the days when US dinosaurs roamed the German countryside.

The New Vanguard book barely mentions the tank development or changes and mainly concentrates on vehicle usage in non-US forces. Not really a necessary book to hunt down.

My time on an M48A5 and M48A5 AVLB used the same method of track tension tightening like the CEV, M88A1, M60A3TTS and Abrams series. All just turn the adjusting link (Abrams pumps grease) to increase or decrease track tension by pushing the idler wheel forward or backward respectively. messing with "Little Joe" (a giant open end wrench) was a daily occurance.

Time to build.  As I said, got this on ebay last week.  Inventory was good with all parts present, came with donor Tamiya A3 hull and suspension as well as a set of AFV Club T97E2,  This is my second CMD kit and looks just as good as the first one.

Resin and PE

Donor Hull and suspension

Filled the motorization holes and the back side of all of the suspension arms

2 coats of Mr.Surfacer on the hull to match the cast texture of the CMD resin

This weekends plan is to drop the suspension 3mm to get to the correct height. 

Rob,

Once again, great info.  The thread I saw was from that site but a year or so earlier.  Joe D and Dontos were also a part of the thread I found.  LHS finally opened yesterday, no Squadron or Osprey books but my friend behind the counter (retired 19K) has the Hunnicut book.

Thats all for now, thanks for looking in

Gary

Don't waste time, money or effort looking for the Osprey book, very little pictoral information. The Squadron one is valuable but dated, written before the M48A5 was phased out. Enjoy your project.

I'll be watching this one, very interesting.....

Okay, this weekend’s goal was knocking the suspension down a bit and getting the AFV Club tracks put together. 

 In the interest of full disclosure, most of what I've done here can be found on a web site hosted by Paul Budzik.  If I were at all computer literate I'd put a hyper link thing in but I'm maxed out just posting pictures and typeing .  I'm sure if you google the name it will come up though.  Lots of fantastic builds on his site.

Back to the M48A0

 I started off lowering the suspension by attaching .115” thick pieces of tube stock to the bottom of the torsion bar mounts at the 4 corners of the hull.  This allowed me to glue the suspension arms on resting against a flat surface at a more correct height for an operational vehicle (about 3 mm lower than if assembled per instructions)

In doing this two problems are created, the six shock absorbers are now too long, and each suspension bumper needs to be shortened.  The best way solve the shock problem is much easier than it sounds.  I cut the lower portion of the shock off and drilled out the upper portion so the lower part slides up into the upper part making it adjustable (kind of like how shocks actually work).

 I also drilled out the mounting tabs on the hull and the tab on the upper part of the shock and pinned them with some small plastic rod stock.  Do yourself a favor though, drill the tabs on the hull BEFORE you attach the upper and lower hull's together.  In my never ending effort to make thing hard for myself, I waited til they were glued together.

The suspension bumper fix is simple, just cut each one to fit individually.  The picture below shows the suspension done, dropped 3mm

Next came the AFV Club tracks, 78 links per side.  Three hours of tedium later they were done.  Worth the effort in my opinion, some might think otherwise though.

Here's how the lowered hull looks next to a Tamiya M48A3 built per instructions.  The difference is most noticable when comparing the distance between the top of the road wheels and bottom of the return rollers

Next effort is going to be with the photo-etch.  I have almost no experience with this stuff so it might be an adventure. 

Thats it for now,

Thanks for look'n in

Gary

The re-done suspension does look better when compared to this A5 runner.

M48A3 article found here:

http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/M48/m48-construction.html

Paul

Good progress, still watching!

Photo etch went easier than I anticipated.  It was a small sheet with thirty or so pieces, mostly for the fender supports and rear stowage basket.  My only trouble with it was cleaning off the area where I cut it from the sprue.  I tried snips and an Xacto but always ended up with at least some brass from the sprue left on the part I needed.  With the larger parts I could actually carve it off with the Xacto, but on the smaller pieces this was torture.   What’s the trick for getting this cleaned up after it’s off the sprue?

Here's my progress for the last few days;

I thinned out the headlight brackets with an emery board (not the wifes, I learned that lesson with the hairdrier) and some small files. 

I had some scrap rod stock left over from the rear storage basket and also had some scrap brass from the photo etch.  I used this to piece together the hand rails on the side of the turret.

Actually think they came out quite well when compared to the styrene alternative.

The delicate resin pipes on the muffler for the rear personnel heater came out of the box broken.  I took this opportunity to relocate to a position that I found to be more prevent in A0’s in my research.  I just cut the pipes off and reworked both ends with some copper wire.

Here's how she sits now

Rob, I agree.  I’ll stick with the suspension drop for future projects.   Thanks for the pic of the A5, saved it for future reference.   BTW, got the Hunnicutt book on loan from my friend at the hobby shop, it definitely looks to be the Holy Grail for all things Patton.  It’s given me several new ideas for projects.

Paul, well deserved tip of the hat. Thanks for dropping in and putting your link into the thread.

RBaer, Thanks for dropping in.

Thanks all for dropping in,

Next up is the .50 cal craddle and some other bits, then its off to paint.

Gary 

Gary

Looking Sweet. Nice work with the tiny details. Good stuff.

Rounds Complete!!

1SG Davis

Photo etch went easier than I anticipated.  It was a small sheet with thirty or so pieces, mostly for the fender supports and rear stowage basket.  My only trouble with it was cleaning off the area where I cut it from the sprue.  I tried snips and an Xacto but always ended up with at least some brass from the sprue left on the part I needed.  With the larger parts I could actually carve it off with the Xacto, but on the smaller pieces this was torture.   What’s the trick for getting this cleaned up after it’s off the sprue?

CSM, I use an X-acto knife chisel blade, don't know the number off hand, but it is flat with "hips". I've got an old piece of aluminum, about 6"x9" I use as a cutting board. I place the blade as close as comfortably possible to the part and lightly tap with a hammer to cut the part. A few swipes with my jeweler's files and it is relatively smooth.

I've placed little rubber bumper feet on the bottom of my piece of aluminum so it doesn't mar whatever surface I'm using at the time.

Practice on a few unused PE parts or on old PE fret to get the technique down. You don't want to damage a valuable PE part learning the process.

BTW, these are the #17 blades:

Finished up the metal work on the commanders cupola.  The delicate M2 mount was a bit of a bear to get cleaned up and in place.  I had to replace the brace out near the end with some rod stock as the resin part was bent and did not survive the attempt to straiten it.  a couple pieces of copper wire for the hatch handle and elevation rod for the mount and it was done.  I added a M2 from an Academy US machine gun set I had too.

With construction about done, its time for paint.  After a wash I let it sit and dry for a few days.  The paint I used was Model Master ACRYL, US Army Helo Drab.  I was looking for a somewhat darker OD.  After airbrushing a coat on and letting it dry, I'm not sure if it might be a little too dark.

Here's how she looks now.

Rob : I gave your advice on the photo etch a try and was quite pleased with the results.  I had an un-used #17 bit in one of those xacto "sampler" trays that comes with ten or so blades.  I  rummaged around our yardsale bin and found my son's kiddie hammer from an old toy tool kit.   Aluminum plate is a bit small but workable.  With just a bit of practice I had it down to almost no flash after getting the piece off the fret.

Never thought I'd be adding a hammer to my hobby bench.

Mike:  Thanks for look'n in.  Hope the 5-5 gathing was a good time.  I've relived some old tales with two other former 187th alumni I've bumped into over the last few months up here.

Thanks all for looking in,

Gary

Lookin' good, Gary. I've always liked the look of the A0, with the cut front fenders and "flat" engine deck, gives it a hot-rod flavor.