Off to a good start Andy! You have the usual roadwheel fun in store coming up and they were all rubber rimmed, so definitely would suggest leaving those off and painting separately (at least the outer 2 sets since those will be visible).

Darn it Bill, you were supposed to be commenting on my post - not Andy's! LOL!

Seriously, thanks for the 's and the wheels will be left 'til very last as I've got a Quickwheel Mask for the and want them done properly. I'm thinking about the Jack, the Jack Block and a lot of other stuff. The exchanust could also be tricky to get full access to when fully assembled.

It loks like a great kit and not the mind bender I was expecting when I first checked the destructions - it's going to be fun I reckon!

I'l be using your blog on your site for some references seeing as I've gone for the side bins like you did.

I'll really get stuck in tomorrow as long as my hand stays calmed down a bit - it's a bit easier now actually.  

All and any suggestions - please chuck them my way!

All the best,

Ben

Hi guys,

Just a very update as my wrist is absolutely killing me and I haven't been able to much at all. You know if you were to fall over and you put your hands out to protect yourself but your hand bends back too far at the wrist? It's that pain x 10 which is making any assembly difficult, painful and also not to the best of my ability 

Anyway, the rear guards are on as are the exhaust outlets and extended tubes.

I've also assembled the Jack and put that on it's mount and a couple of other little parts and that's it. I wish I had more to show you but I'm going to start messing things up if I carry on with a bad hand making assembly a nightmare!

I've had to reverse the Brass Shackles as the part you would hold to screw in the threaded bar slightly foul the guards and would foul the tracks as they were initially positioned with the bolt heads sticking outwards. They are a massive improvement on any Styrene Shackles!

Questions if I may: 

1) On the destructions Dragon have the '100' vehicle (Pz.III turret bins on the turret sides) shown without that rear plate and ask you to remove it's locating lugs - I think that's that starter isn't it? Suggestions or advice anyone?

2) A good friend of mine sent me a trio of Masterbox figures, all painted and looking good. He's been really unwell lately and I'd love to use this fine fellow shown below in my pictures as a Commander figure. My figures are getting better but I wouldn't put one within 100 yards of one of my builds plus this tiger is going to munch a lot of space in my cabinet so at some point I'll be putting it on a small base, possibly with the other two figures my friend sent me which are two German grunts with field accessories - I'm just unsure about his uniform i.e. is it suitable for this era (early 1943, Eastern Front). I know he'd love to see them used.

Today's work - not much!

Herr Commander figure  -  will he be ok?

Thanks for looking guys.

I'd love to hear what you have to say about the figure and if he's suitable?

Any pointers or advice all greatly received btw

No doubt the wrist will be fine for next Saturday so I'll be ablt to make a start on the upper assembly and really get stuck in and get this show on the road!

Have a good week everyone,

Ben  

A good start. As to the figure, the unifroms for tank crew didn't change that much. They did wear camo and other types later in the war, but the standard black unirom was used from start to finish, the only change being the headgear early in the war. Only problem with him is that i don't think he would last long in a Russian Winter in the far North. Looks more suited to a cool summers day with those thin gloves.

Cheers Bish,

How obvious is that!  Totally unsuitable - forget I asked guys.

The set will be fine do for an up and coming project in 2012!

I might have another go myself yet.

Cheers Bish,

Ben

Easily done mate. It can often take someone else to point out something that we have missed. I know its happened to me more than once.

Currently building the exact same kit.

I have finished the hull and am working on the turret.

I got some aftermarket gun barrel and machine gun barrel for the turret.  You may want to think about that if you havent already as the metal barrel will not have any seem lines.  Also the small machine gun barrel for the turrent will be hollow.  Difficult to get a hollow barrel that size in plastic.

I will be doing mine as a the box shows...Russian front at Leningrad seige.  I want to get some figures for the commanders and a driver to show off the hatches.

Ben:

On the photos of "100" taken in Summer 1943, the posts for the adapter plate simply aren't there. It looks like they were never there. I can't explain it.

In all the photos of these Tigers with their winter camouflage, the crew are wearing a variety of fur coats, winter jackets etc. They don't show up in black Panzer uniform until the snow is gone.

David

Cheers Stuart and David,

David - I'll be lopping them two posts off then!

Stuart - I've got a replacement barrel on order, I use replacement barrels for the majority of my builds as I can't stand the seam lines which are a real pain to shift properly. The fact that they are so cheap also helps the decision!

What Mantlet are you going to be using for your aftermarket barrel? I see that there is a ready to go Mantlet as opposed to the one that is for the sprung barrel and needs building up.

Cheers guys,

Ben

Ben- I always wanted to get this kit.  I only have two Tiger kits in stash but they are protocol and early version.   Of course I will be following your build with interest.  Good luck!

Cheers Andy,

Good tactic - let me make all the errors so you can avoid them later on when you start!

It looks like a nice kit, nothing too crazy on the instructions and a dream to weather too.

I'm going to be pretty busy in the run up to Christmas so it's going to be a slow blog!

Thanks buddy and take care,

Ben

Hinksy

Good tactic - let me make all the errors so you can avoid them later on when you start!

You can count me in on that as well. I haven't built any of dragon's Tigers yet, so i will be keeping an eye out

That and you can't beat a good Tiger.

Hi guys,

I've managed to squeeze in a few hours this afternoon.

I've not got that much done as although the destructions are fine - they do require CLOSE scrutiny and dry fitting is essential too.

Someone did mention to me somewhere that if you folloed the guide and fitted the front glacis armour in the way shown then it is nigh on impossible to fit the top deck with front panel where the MG is etc as it won't slide underneath. He was very right so I've assembled it like this and the top deck will drop straight on now (maybe)!

So, rear Jack Block has been Blu-Tacked in place for removal prior to painting, MG has been assembled and it moves on the ball mount nicely (I didn't go for a fancy MG assembly as it won't be seen apart from the barrel and the air intakes are in place.

I'm improving with my PE use now - the rear fan intake surrounds are a bit rough and could be better but they took be surprise (ie study instructions - I didn't at that stage and before I knew it I saw that PE was needed! I also fitted the tiniest little PE parts ever to the MG external surround - that was fun and the carpet monster had nothing to eat today either! Ha!

I've just noticed that I've not fitted the '100' Horseshoe so that will be fitted tomorrow.

So far - so very good. Lovely kit and a fun build.

Thanks for looking guys,

I'd love to hear all comments etc!

I reckon I could easily get into building Tigers - I'm gonna need a bigger cabinet! LOL!

Update tomorrow,

Take care,

Ben  

Thats coming along very nice. I see theres a gap between the side and rear plates, are they just waiting to be glued, or are they in need of some filler.

I still don't get how people can paint armour with al those other bits fitted.

Hi Bish,

I've just fitted the extra side armour where it sticks out at the rear slightly (I think it's supposed to do that by the looks of the drawings-it's all butted up so the installation seems fine).

A lot of it like the Jack and block etc will be coming off prior to to painting but it's been made so well it literally snap-fits without glue!

I only paint the bare-bones with the ab. Stuff like the wheels and Jack and tools all get brush painted.

Cheers buddy,

Ben

Right, i see now. That's my kind of painting. Though i airbrush my wheels while they are on the sprue as i am doing the rest of the camo, then i brush paint the rubber.

I did see in your pics a double layer of armour on the side. I haven't looked at any of my DML Tiger instructions that closely so hadn't noticed that. I would imagine that makes it easy for them to produce the zimmed and none zimmed kits. They just have to change the outer part.

Hi Bish,

Yep, that double armour is what caused the little gaps at the rear where it 'butts up' and sticks out.

You should DEFINATELY try a Quickwheel mask from Steve at Armour Models. I have bought one for Dragon Panzer III/StuG III wheels and it perfection! It is a square of hard plastic with say 18 holes for a Panzer III for example (12 for the roadwheels and 6 for the return rollers). You just give the tyre area area a portion of your rubber colour, let it dry well for at least 24 hours then stick the in the holes - only the rims are exposed and it's so quick, neat and easy. I say let the rubber colour dry well because the bit that covers the rubber portion is sticky and it pulled a bit of the rubber colour paint off two of my Pz III wheels. 

I've ordered the suitable Tiger one for this build - they cost £8 or £8-50 depending on size.

http://www.armour-models.co.uk/model_kit_Quick.html

I'll be assembling this fully but all wheels, tools, tow cables, Jack and block etc will be left off for extra detailed painting after air brushing the main build. I have tried to paint a build with parts in place but I found it hard and not enjoyable - I enjoy painting tools and wooden blocks etc with a quality Sable brush.

Cheers buddy,

Ben

I'm a little worried about those gaps at the rear; they shouldn't really be there (although the real Tigers were often 1 or 2 cm oversize due to tolerance).

Have you tested the fit of the hull roof? When I'm building, I fit and correct all the large parts before the small ones.

David

Looking real good buddy.   This is it!!!  Just told my wife I want to get a Tiger kit for Christmas.  It has to be either mid or late model.  You are such a bad influence...

Take your time and enjoy this massive beast.

Hey Guys,

WIP update time - I'm on call today so have been on the work phone a lot sorting problems out so I marked a nice point to get to today in readiness for a big 'attack' next weekend. Our customers are selfish interrupting my build time! LOL!

Andy - I'm glad I've got you interested in a Tiger. I'll know youll do something special. I'm a bad influence eh? I've been told that I'm that a few times before, too! I'm still waiting for you to take me up on the offer of painting me a Commander figure for this Tiggy (in Cold Weather clothes)! My figures - no chance (yet).

David - I wouldn't worry matey, I'm on the case! The rear end was all square and when I slapped the additional armour panels on the sides they butted up at the rear all nicely as it should but because of how it is shaped there is a part that protrudes back over the rear panel, see below photos ( text continued below the photos):

David - The assembly seems spot on and, the gaps and assembly where everything 'butts up' are identical both sides and it honestly looks like it should be like that. If I'm not happy prior to paint I'll fill the little gaps with Milliput but it looks fine at present. Just keep an eye open as the build progresses and let me know what you think as I keep blogging  If this is the only problem that occurs then I'll be very happy!

Anyway, frontal armour is in place totally now and the horseshoe is on (most important). I've opened out all the holes that are shown beneath the top deck with my Pin Vice. Most have to be opened up anyway but a few are marked for tanks 3, 100 or 123 - you open up the holes that are for your tank only (obviously).

The lower bar which retains the spare tracks links is in place - I'll have to leave the top bar until after painting as I want to insert the spare links separately after weathering with a bit of rusting etc.

Hatches and 'scopes are done, covers are on, top deck has been dry-fitted and it fits PERFECTLY! It was a teeny bit tight so I've took a whisher off the top deck guides which slot in behind the frontal armour and it couldn't be better now.

Next week I satart with the rear grilles and photoetch intakes, then onto the turret. Tools and wheels last. I have an RB turned Barrel, Quickwheel mask, spent and live shell cases and a brass bucket (pre-formed) all on order. I am still undecided about the Friuls!

Some photos from today (remember the top deck is not fixed in place yet):

That's it for today guys - I hope you like!

I'll definately be building a Zimmed Mid Production Tiger next year - great fun!

This kit is superb (so far at least). No fitment issues, no noticeable instruction screw ups apart from the order in which way Dragon show you to put the frontal armour on. If a buddy hadn't mentioned this on an old blog of his I think it would have been nigh on impossible to assemble the way the instructions ask you to as I tried myself and dry fitted it wouldn't have gone without removing glued parts so I'm pleased I read about that!

Have a good week everyone - update next weekend!

All the best,

Ben

There's something you need to watch out for. Dragon's hull roof is thicker than the real one, so it collides with the radiators. As a result the back of the hull roof will not sit into the hull sides properly.

Here's how a real Tiger looks at the rear side;

Only the hinge protrudes above the side walls.

The solution is to omit the top part from each radiator. They're not visible when you're done.

David

Cheers David,

Thanks for the heads-up. I'll remember that for next weekend as that is part of what I'll be doing.

Erm, when you say omit the top part of the radiator, what part are you referring to buddy? I'm assuming you mean the thin rectangular piece on each radiator? I've already fitted them if that's the case but they'll come off easy enough.

All the best,

Ben

Yes, part G31.

David

Gotcha David - I've just popped them off with an older scalpel blade.

Obviously the photos of the last update show the top deck dry fitted hence it's sitting up at the rear but after looking at whats next to come I can see them 2 little parts are going to make the rear grilles sit up waaay too much when the deck is fixed.

Anything else you know of that should be left off David?

Thanks buddy.

Ben

Hey guys,

I hope you are all very well.

I'm afraid I haven't any new work as such to show to you as as I've had the most incredibly enjoyable day Christmas shopping with my parents and visitng family - all day looooong  and now that I'm home I just feel too shattered to do any work.

The plus side being I have the WHOLE day to myself tomorrow to get a fair chunk of work done and my Brass uprade parts for the kit turned up today - I only ordered them yesterday! The post in the UK is (usually) great! He he he!

Here's what I've got: 

RB Early Tiger I Barrel:

RB Brass Bucket to add a splash of colour. I'm thinking of painting it in Enamel Blue and hang it on the tank like the crew have simply 'borrowed' it:

Quickwheel Mask - I love these things: 

Finally, 12 x 88mm shell cases and 12 shell tips which can be used optionally. I'm  thinking of digging a figure out of the spares tub and having an arm chucking a spent shell case out of the shell hatch and perhaps a spent shell case on the rear deck - or the idea of simple vignette/dio isn't out the window yet?

As you'll see there are three different types of shell. I'll need to do some research but there's going to be an armour piercing one, HE one and something else. Have a look at the three types of shell tip on the photo below and let me know what you think - colours will be very handy too! I've got a book somewhere so I might have to dig that out yet. I think the live shells will go in the spares tub for a future build yet but thet are handy to have.

As you can see in the top right corner of the photo there are three different shell tips - a smooth, bullet-like one, another with a rounded piece sticking in the tip and a third which has two 'steps' in the tip producing a rib shape?

Plenty of stuff to keep me going!

Looking at the instructions below showing turret and barrel assembly which I should reach tomorrow I'm wondering shall I just assemble as normal omitting the kit barrel (shown in section #15 with the kit barrel markes as 'S') and spring - instead just using my new barrel?

What's the length of barrel exposed i.e. from Mantlet opening (part A20) to Muzzle? I need to get this right!

Thanks for looking guys,

Hopefully I'll have a good wip update for you tomorrow!

Take care,

Ben

Some niced looking goodies there. Does that RB bucket come ready made or do you have to put that together, i think it looks rather nice. Though personally i would go for Ordanance Green for that, i use tamiya XF-11 for that.

damn, i used to know the shell colours off the top of my head, but it been that long since i needed that info i have forgotten. I know one colour used is field Grey, which i think goes on the HE rounds.

Bish

Some niced looking goodies there. Does that RB bucket come ready made or do you have to put that together, i think it looks rather nice. Though personally i would go for Ordanance Green for that, i use tamiya XF-11 for that.

damn, i used to know the shell colours off the top of my head, but it been that long since i needed that info i have forgotten. I know one colour used is field Grey, which i think goes on the HE rounds.

Hey Bish,

Ordnance Green eh? That's fine - just something to give a little shot of colour.

I ordered all these bits from Steve (formerly Lou) at Armour Models. The bucket came ready made and just needs the handle fitting.

I recall seeing shells of all colours. I definately recall seeing one with a Field Grey tip and what I'm sure was like a Parkerised colour for the case - almost gun metal like? 

If I choose to use just a couple of spent BRASS cases on my build surely they wouldn't need painting again? Just a bit of black pigment where the shell has fired?

Cheers buddy,

Ben  

I might have to get myself some of those buckets. For this period of the war, the shells are spot on IMHO, and just need a bit of dirtying up.

Bish

I might have to get myself some of those buckets. For this period of the war, the shells are spot on IMHO, and just need a bit of dirtying up.

At £1-50 a shot those buckets are great. They aren't flimsy thin PE things but well made and robust 'proper' chunky buckets.

I've got to think of something to put in mine - a bit of white paint so it looks like whitewash maybe and a scratched paintbrush in it too perhaps?

Ben

That sounds like a good price. I haven't ordered from Armour models since the new guy took over, simply because i haven't needed things like barrels that i usually get from there. But i think in the new year i will deffo get some of those.

Deffinatly some white paint in there given the paint scheme your doing yours.

Anything else you know of that should be left off David?

If you're planning an in-action setting, how about the headlights? They were supposed to be stored inside the tank during action, though this didn't always get done. The kit provides the empty sockets as alternate parts.

David

Hey guys,

Bish - You should definately pop on over to Armour Models again. Steve is a great chap and has also had a revamp of Friul prices and has took a few quid off the entire range so all Friuls are £28 now. An order over £20 (I think it's £20) is post free. He's also stocking Hornet Heads and some other interesting stuff too.

David - I'll be leaving the headlights on this build as I want to show the Initial Tiger I in all it's glory! The shell cases don't have to be used, I'm totally undecided yet and they were just something that I thought would be good to have in the spares tub!

What do you think about the replacement barrel installation btw David? It's a little loose in the Mantlet (only a tiny bit mind you).

Take care guys,

Ben  

The fixed sleeve is actually a protective cleaner and dust sleeve. It doesn't touch the gun barrel, there's a rubber ring inside. So it should have a small gap between it and the barrel.

As for the length of the gun, use the kit barrel as a reference (when it's pushed fully forward by the spring of course).

David

Byrden

The fixed sleeve is actually a protective cleaner and dust sleeve. It doesn't touch the gun barrel, there's a rubber ring inside. So it should have a small gap between it and the barrel.

As for the length of the gun, use the kit barrel as a reference (when it's pushed fully forward by the spring of course).

David

Cheers David - Useful and insightful as always

It was a bit obvious about using the kit barrel so I've knocked it together and might have the basics of a turret and barrel to show later on.

All the best,

Ben

Hi guys,

I was hoping that you'd be able to help with my scale Brass ammo that I got yesterday for my Tiger I. I've been searching Google and scanning various sites without success - the best I can do (so far at least) is the ammo pictured below in the two photos but I need to find info that ammo on the picture I posted yesterday that has that bulge in the tip (below photo, top right, middle one of the three).

I think I can see the HE & AP just above which matches my ammo but I haven't seen that bulbous tipped ammo yet?

I'm sure one of you educated gents will be able to help out?

WIP update later!

Many thanks,

Ben

Ben,

I don't think that middle round is a Tiger round...the packaging indicates that the brass ammo is suitable for 8.8cm Flak as well and I'm pretty sure that middle round is a proximity fused AA HE round and not a tank round. I've never seen that type at least in my own research into either the PaK or KwK 8.8cm usage.

Hi guys,

Cheers for that Bill - definately makes sense as I can't see anything resembling that projectile in my photos of Tiger ammo.

WIP Update:

Righto; I've got the intakes fitted below the top deck, the top deck is now fixed with parts G31 removed from the fan tops to help the deck sit down flush. Annoyingly, I was concentrating on applying as much pressure to the rear whilst the CA cured the front of the top deck has sat up a little on the left side (as you look at the model) but I think I can live with that. It doesn't show too much - I could have done with four arms for holding that top deck in place whilst the CA set! My gripper thingies didn't squeeze tight enough.

Anyway, headlights are in place as well as the fiddly light conduit (supplied with the kit) which I know aren't in the correct place (the conduit, obviously) as I've seen photos of this model completed and mine don't look right BUT they are in place, the PE brackets are in place and they look ok so I'm happy.

Finally the two Brass diamond pattern tread plates are in place on the front fenders.

I'm now at another nice place to start from next weekend as all the instructions call for on the top deck now are tools and rods etc which will be going on after painting - the next step is #15 which is the start of the turret and barrel and it looks like a fun assembly too.

Some photos: 

Thanks for dropping by guys

I'd appreciate and tips on the turret and barrel assembly stages as I'll be doing that next weekend.

Have a great week everyone,

Ben

Ben, just had a look in my book on German artilery, which includes ammo. I can't find anything like that bulbous shell you ahve, so no idea what that is. But, according to what i have in front of me, and i am sure i have reda it else where, yellow was used for HE Anti Aircraft shells, so would be used in a Tiger. And i am also sure i have read some where that the rounds for the Tiger I and the 88mm Flak guns were not interchangable. Though i am not sure if you would see any difference in this scale.

Not sure if bill knows any different or can add anything to that.

Your Tiger is looking great!  Those aftermarket shells look awesome.  Bet they cost you a fortune? 

Did those brass fenders come with the kit or you bought it separately?

Hi guys,

Bish - cheers for the info. If you go back a page Bill has said that he reckons that rounded shell would have been for AA only and not used in Tigers. There's a few photos that I posted too.

Andy - Thank you Sir, I'm enjoying this build a lot! The Brass fenders came with the kit on the PE sprue - look nice, don't they?

The shells were £6 - that gets you a bag of 12 shell cases and 12 different type projectiles. I suppose a bit pricey but a nice addition to the spares tub! I can get 50 cheap 12 gauge shotgun rounds for pigeon control for that price so they probably rate as the most expensive, deactivated teeny tiny ammo ever! LOL! 

I forgot to mention; during assembly yesterday I managed to knock over an open pot of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, just after reading it's going to be pratically impossible to get hold of now! Dammit-I always put lids on bottles too. It was a full bottle and now has about a quarter left - it was my only bottle too

Cheers chaps,

Ben

Ben, did I ever tell you that you can be a bad influence my friend?  I am getting this kit for Christmas.  I know because my wife asked me to help her place orders online last night.  Cyber Monday sale!  Got it for only $30.  After following your WIP, it has to be one of two or three kits I am getting for Christmas. 

I couldn't read anywhere on Dragon site, does it comes with aluminum barrel too?  I sure hope so! 

Hinksy that bulged round may actually be a Gr. 39 HL (HEAT) High explosive Anti Tank round. It does look like a shaped charge warhead to me. And the Tiger I actually used 2 types of AP round the APCBC and the APCR the APCR has a Tungsten core while the APCBC uses a HE core. 

Oh and check out this AFV club brass ammo set

http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=AFV35087

it shows it as a HEAT round

Hinksy

Hi guys,

I was hoping that you'd be able to help with my scale Brass ammo that I got yesterday for my Tiger I. I've been searching Google and scanning various sites without success - the best I can do (so far at least) is the ammo pictured below in the two photos but I need to find info that ammo on the picture I posted yesterday that has that bulge in the tip (below photo, top right, middle one of the three).

I think I can see the HE & AP just above which matches my ammo but I haven't seen that bulbous tipped ammo yet?

I'm sure one of you educated gents will be able to help out?

WIP update later!

Many thanks,

Ben

deafpanzer

Ben, did I ever tell you that you can be a bad influence my friend?  I am getting this kit for Christmas.  I know because my wife asked me to help her place orders online last night.  Cyber Monday sale!  Got it for only $30.  After following your WIP, it has to be one of two or three kits I am getting for Christmas. 

I couldn't read anywhere on Dragon site, does it comes with aluminum barrel too?  I sure hope so! 

Hi guys,

Cheers Mikey - that's some superb info

Andy - Actually, you have told me that I'm a bad influence, on this very thread somewhere I think! You are worse though

Sorry to dissapoint but the original version of this kit came with a plastic AND metal barrel (kit# 6525 I think - now out of production) but this kit only has the plastic version. If you go back a page you'll see the RB replacement barrel that I bought for this kit, not expensive. The kit barrel is one piece and actually very good, no seam and you only have to assemble the muzzle brake which is made up of three parts.

But hey, this is a Tiger I and MUST have an aftermarket barrel!

Cheers buddy - update this weekend. Should get a fair bit done, too. The weekend is mine and so is the house!

All the best,

Ben

Hi guys,

Here's my usual Saturday update for you!

I had wanted to get the turret and barrel totally completed but the usual family, friends and work stuff clogged up my bench time so I'm 75% there now. As you'll see the turret and barrel assembly are in place but the roof and hatches are yet to go on and the cupola needs assembling. Looking at the instructions what is left to do to complete the turret in all it's glory plus the side bins should only take a couple of hours - I'm certainly not rushing it. I've also got to try and scalpel off the numbers to glue on top of the Mantlet - they give you 2 sets of 1 to 0 on the edge of the 'P' sprue, you just work out the number you need and slice them carefully off and stick them on the mantlet on the flat piece above where the barrel dust cover sleeve enters the mantlet.

I'm not sure what number to use? wbill used 56 I think, David B hasn't suggested a number but he has told me that there were ten of these initial Tigers to enter the Russian Front in anger so do I choose anything between 01 and 10 or any old two digit number. I wanted to put 32 as that's my age and It will make an interesting little anecdote when showing friends this build in years to come! If anyone can be a bit more accurate I'd really be grateful guys.

After the turret is done it's road wheel prep time (yawn), PE tool clasp assembly and general intricate detailing. This kit is so good - it's a 'moderate' skill level build (imo) but a modeller with only a few months experience and a bit of build time under his belt should be fine. It's certainly not a mega Dragon brain-buster like I've attempted before but I'm not there yet so fingers x'd!  The replacement upgrade barrel is, again, imo, a must have but the kit barrel is okay and just needs preparing properly. I had to assemble the kit barrel and fit it to get the measurements on how much I should leave exposed of the RB barrel. The springy thing works but I can't see why any serious modeller would require it.

Finally, I've decided to (if all goes well) make a nice little Winter base for this Tiger with some MIG Acrylic Resin, plaster and paints and scenic grass added to the mix to spread in the tracks to look all wet and churned up - I've got a set of three Cyber-Hobby figures that I had with my SIG 33B and I'm going to have the one with the SMG walking alongside. If I can make that and paint a good figure then it should look great but that's a while off yet.  

The kit barrel for comparison - I only assembled it very quickly hence it's being a bit 'rough':

Thanks for looking guys,

I'll be posting a completed turret amongst other things tomorrow evening!

I'd also love to hear what you have to say re the Mantlet numbering?

Take care,

Ben

Looking real good!  I am glad you are taking this slow especially the barrels comparison.  I will definitely order an aluminum barrel... thanks for the tip! 

You want a number?  OK how many serious girlfriends you have had?  Use that number.

Looking forward to your next update...

Cheers Andy,

Girlfriends eh? Nah, since my engagement ended I'm taking a break from ANYTHING to do with girls!

I'm going with 32 unless someone tells me otherwise or I end up destroying the numbers I need - they don't look easy to slice off tbh!

She's looking killer now that turret is in place and the build in general is a real pleasure (so far)!

Cheers buddy,

Ben

Hi guys,

Just a quick update on the turret.

As you can see It's now all done APART from the side bins and the Mantlet numbering.

The side bins are assembled and ready to go but I need to gently smooth off the guide marks on the turret that are there for modellers who want to use the rear bin instead. They are quite prominent and need to go so I'll sand them down in the morning quickly before work and then drop the side bins in place.

The Mantlet numbers? Well, tbh, I just forgot about them and they can go on next week. I actually looked at the numbers that are on a flat area moulded into the surround of the 'P' sprue tree and was trying to work out the best way to 'slice them off! It doesn't look easy - any suggestions on the best method? Obviously it will involve a scalpel with new blade but the letters aren't  deep and won't come off easily (imo).

Turret assembly in general was simple. The gun assembly is very nice and the RB Barrel really looks the part. I'd love to have a crack at a 1/35 full interior! The only slightly 'iffy' part was the Cupola. The main body built up easily but the hinge for the hatch was a really fiddly affair that required some minor assembly, that was the only minor point. Everything else built up PERFECTLY

Next week it's wheel time and I'm going to soon have to thing about getting some paint on this thing! I wasn't expecting to be anywhere near this far into the build this soon seeing as I have to limit my time at the bench to 2-4 hours before I get killer headaches! Usually I like to spend 4 hours on Saturday and 4 on Sunday, perhaps a tiny bit more but that's all and I'm not rushing - this kit could be mistaken for a Tamiya kit! Well done Dragon on bringing out a superb Tiger I!

Here's where I'm at gentlemen:

I took a photo of my model cabinet - all of my best builds live in here, my earlier ones which aren't so good are bubble wrapped sat in a box. Sorry about the picture quality but lighting was at a minimum. It sits by my bed and at present contains 12 x 1/35 builds and 4 x 1/48 Tamiya builds. It holds 10 glass shelves but I'm only using 6 at present and they can be moved to whatever position you need. I'm O.k. for room for a while yet but eventually I'll have to start moving shelves up and putting additional ones in. 

Cheers for looking in chaps.

Have a good week everyone and take care!

Ben

Looks like things are progressing nicely Ben. I would recommend using a flat razor blade instead of a scalpel blade...you'll have more control and less chance of slicing a finger versus a scalpel IMHO. That's how I removed mine at any rate...but more than one way to "skin" the numbers in this case!

The diamond shaped protrusions on the rear of the turret? Don't remove them - they were on the real "100", it used to have a rear bin.

David

You are running parralel to my build.  I am also doing the 100 with side bins.

Nice work so far...looking forward to seeing how you paint and weather...so I can learn a bit.

Also, I like the cabinet.  Where did you get that.

I have my basement recently redone and am looking for a cabinet fixutre that I can have all along the wall to display my armour, aircraft and ships.....,this looks like just the ticket.

"The diamond shaped protrusions on the rear of the turret? Don't remove them - they were on the real "100", it used to have a rear bin."

Thank Byrden,,,didn't know that...I was about to remove mine as well...good  to know.

Stuart06

"The diamond shaped protrusions on the rear of the turret? Don't remove them - they were on the real "100", it used to have a rear bin."

Thank Byrden,,,didn't know that...I was about to remove mine as well...good  to know.

Ditto!

Thanks - just in time!

How is your build going Stuart?

Take care,

Ben.

I am about the same point you are....

I just have to add a few small parts here and there and a bit of clean up and I will add my primer and then paint.

Just curious,,for the base coat I intend to use Tamyia XF-63, German Grey.  How about you.

After that, i will do a hairspray, white wash technique...(first time). then apply the rest of the weathering using dot filitering and Mig products.

In my build I have most of the equipment off the tank and will paint seperately. I have also not attached the exhuast tower and clamps at the back and spare tracks at the front..... as I want to ensure the paint gets in the area that will be covered up.  I feel that it is important for depth.  After the German grey is on, I will apply the hairspary and white.

Of course the wheels and tracks will also be done seperately.

Concerning the whitewash; it looks like the spare tracks were already on these tanks when the crew went to whitewash them, and I very much doubt that they took the tracks off to paint the wall behind.

David

Stuart06

I am about the same point you are....

I just have to add a few small parts here and there and a bit of clean up and I will add my primer and then paint.

Just curious,,for the base coat I intend to use Tamyia XF-63, German Grey.  How about you.

After that, i will do a hairspray, white wash technique...(first time). then apply the rest of the weathering using dot filitering and Mig products.

In my build I have most of the equipment off the tank and will paint seperately. I have also not attached the exhuast tower and clamps at the back and spare tracks at the front..... as I want to ensure the paint gets in the area that will be covered up.  I feel that it is important for depth.  After the German grey is on, I will apply the hairspary and white.

Of course the wheels and tracks will also be done seperately.

 

Hi buddy,

The next step is to finish the turret, add a couple of bits and bobs and paint - I always use Tamiya XF-63 but vary it slightly from build-to-build. I'll be using German Grey with a dash of Flat white and a dash od XF-18(?) Medium Blue, the addition of XF-18 Medium Blue makes for a good German Panzer Grey imo. The white helps too but take it easy and add a bit at a time into the cup before you are happy and spray the model!

My last build (Panzer III N) also had the same Leningrad markings. For that I used a basecoat of my usual Grey then when fully cured I masked areas with Blu-Tack and added patches of white using a well thinned Flat White. Weathering was done with AK streaking Grimes and MIG Washes (ready to go and my own Windsor & Newton oil paint washes made by me), Graphite pencil for chipping and some various colours and a 5/0 and 10/0 brush for additional chipping with other colours from Vallejo. The highly thinned White allowed for a nice pre-shade effect and the result was great - I'll do the same with this as I want a matching pair of Leningrad Panzers! A Pz III and a Tiger I. 

My 'Leningrad' Panzer III N (text continues after photos):

Before weathering the Tiger I'll paint the tools and spare tracks (the spare tracks will be only lightly weathered as this '100' Tiger wasn't about that long to get rusted up). The tools will be hand painted and then fitted and I'll add a bit more white over the top to make them look like they were in place when it was whitewashed like David has said but although not very accurate I like the effect the wooden tool handles and tool head colours has against the basecoat so they won't be heavily covered up. I'm only fitting one tow cable too - maybe none. Not sure yet.

I'd like to do a Hairspray job but I haven't done that before so I'm not learning on this beauty - I'm going for the tried and tested method! I've got a Tamiya 1/35 Hetzer with a poor paintjob so I'm going to spray that with Dunky, re-decal it and try the Hairspray method on that. I'm wary as I've seen a lot of people have problems with cracking of the hairspray coat etc and a real mess being made.

As for the tracks? I'm going for a real wet look mud mix with some scenic grass chopped into the mix - it looks great. I mean - It's Russia and it's Winter so this is going to be messier than the Panzer III. They'll be done last with the wheels - then I'm making a small base with a single figure.

Hope this helps - any photos yet?

All the best,

Ben

Good evening guys,

Just a quick update on how things are going:

The turret is now totally complete and both side bins are in place and looking good!

I replaced the moulded handle on the top of the rectangular hatch next to the Commanders Cupola with some decent Copper wire bent into a nice handle shape-a big improvement imo!

Oh, the Mantlet numbers are on too - fiddly as hell but they look ok, just a little out of alignment but that's as good as I can can get it! My eyes were really starting to hurt after spending 20 minuets trying to get that right! I looked at numbers and can see that other people have opted for all sorts so I decided on 32 as that's my age.

Tomorrow I'll get the wheels assembled and I'll also lay a couple of light layers of primer down - then I can start thinking about getting the airbrush prepped and ready for a whirl next weekend Tools will be brush painted separately and the wheels will be air brushed separately too using the Quickwheel Mask.

I've had the emergency work phone today which has been pretty busy and has slowed me up but I'm there at last! I'm really looking forward to getting the whitewash going on this monster and slapping some 'wet' mud on her and getting her on a base too.

If you haven't built it already and a Tiger I fan I can't recommend this kit enough!

Photos from today:

Thanks for looking guys,

I'll drop another quick update on the wip tomorrow,

Take care,

Ben

(NOTE: Double Post - Sorry):

Good evening guys,

Just a quick update on how things are going:

The turret is now totally complete and both side bins are in place and looking good!

I replaced the moulded handle on the top of the rectangular hatch next to the Commanders Cupola with some decent Copper wire bent into a nice handle shape-a big improvement imo!

Oh, the Mantlet numbers are on too. I've just remembered whilst typing this post that I forgot to do them today and it was something I had really wanted done so I went to do them quickly - fiddly as hell but they look ok, just a little out of alignment but that's as good as I can can get it! My eyes were really starting to hurt after spending 20 minuets trying to get that right! I looked at numbers and can see that other people have opted for all sorts so I decided on 32 as that's my age.

Tomorrow I'll get the wheels assembled and I'll also lay a couple of light layers of primer down - then I can start thinking about getting the airbrush prepped and ready for a whirl next weekend Tools will be brush painted separately and the wheels will be air brushed separately too using the Quickwheel Mask.

I've had the emergency work phone today which has been pretty busy and has slowed me up but I'm there at last! I'm really looking forward to getting the whitewash going on this monster and slapping some 'wet' mud on her and getting her on a base too.

If you haven't built it already and a Tiger I fan I can't recommend this kit enough!

Photos from today:

Thanks for looking guys,

I'll drop another quick update on the wip tomorrow,

Take care,

Ben

Did you forget the commander's hatch stopper?

David

Sort of - it fell off and I need to fit it again!

Looking real good so far.  Clean build!  My Tiger 6600 has arrived but my wife got her hands on it first before I got home.  So she hid it somewhere in the house... crap!  Guess I have to wait until Christmas...

Thats coming along very nicely Ben.

deaf, o now thats just nasty. Wicked woman.

To Hinksy and others...

I am at the point of painting my Tiger I "inital" production and the model will represent the '41 campaign at Leningrad.  I am not sure if  I will white wash yet or not....so if I stay with the German grey, (Tamyia XF-63)

It has been suggested that this color is a good match to the actual colors.  Even though it tank looks almost black, I have read on these forums that it is correct.

So my question is, what do you weather with to make this look battle hardned.  I don't think a dark brown wash will work, 

What colors can be used if employing the dot filtering method and other weathering  techniques.   

Yes, the original "Panzer" grey was almost black, but generally you'd have to wash the tank to see that effect. These things would pick up dust on their travels that would lighten the tone significantly.

But your "100" is camouflaged, I believe? There are a few photos here, including "100" itself;

http://www.tiif.de/thread.php?postid=1927

and it seems the most typical weathering is snow packed into the tracks.

David

Hey guys,

Tiger I '100' is back on the bench! and I'm raring to go!

My last update was made during last December when I'd finished the basic assembly - since then I've breathed some new life into an old Hetzer in my cabinet and built a lovely Marder II (I just fancied a breather from the Tiger prior to painting).

All I've done today is get the wheels separated on a board and marked up so I know what goes where (obviously there's a lotta wheels). I've got a Tiger I early Quickwheel Mask so that will help!

I also tried out a new primer - Mr Surfacer 1200 in a rattlecan. Ii's superb stuff and something I can highly recommend.I know Andy Deafpanzer wants to try it out. A few light passes and nothing is obscured and all details remain without having the 'edge' taken off them.

I'll be basecoat painting the Grey and White next weekend so here we go again! No doubt David will be about to put me straight and I've got wbill's blog too to help me with the painting.

Wheels laid out and sorted:

The build as she stands now after priming with the 1200:

I will be buying Friuls but that will be later on in the build.

I reckon she could be a real winner - fingers x'd!

Thanks for looking in guys-any comments or Tiger I advice please send them my way!

Have a great week guys,

Ben

The Fruil set that you need is ATL-116.

David

My, what big ears your Tiger has, Ben.

Looks great so far. That primer looks pretty good--I'll bet it would work pretty nicely for cars--is it smooth enough to put a high-gloss finish over it?

Hey David and Doog,

David - My 'Friul man' Steve has them set aside for when I need them and they are the number you quoted David so I'm all ok there.

Karl - It's a  great primer and very fine with super small particles. I know nothing about high-gloss finishes on model cars BUT it definately feels very smooth when you run your finger over it as opposed to my cheaper primers which leave a 'matt' type textured surface. No hint of that here. I'm impressed!

I'll be keeping this for my best builds! All the armour guys at my modelling club use it and rate it highly.

Thanks chaps,

Ben

the doog

My, what big ears your Tiger has, Ben.

"You know what they say about big ears?"

No, no, no, it's means you carry a big gun. An 88mm!

Thanks for the recommendation.  I will order few cans next time I order something from online vendors. Shops here dont stock Mr. Surfacer products.  

Good to see Tiger back on your workbench! 

the doog

My, what big ears your Tiger has, Ben.

       Yes,

"EEERIE" 

Hi chaps,

Thanks for looking in on the Tiger build. That Mr Surfacer 1200 is great stuff - it dries to a lovely smooth finish that looks great. It has taken to the metal barrel fine too so that's good.

Plan for the weekend is to get grey basecoat laid down  followed by the patches of white.

The main question I have it thus: When I built the Panzer with the same paint scheme I painted it grey then added the white THEN weathered it etc.

In theory this tank would have been grey and with the arrival of Winter the crews would have applied the white over the top of the already mucky grey (correct)?

Would it be an idea to actually paint the model that way. Paint it grey and weather it (lightly) and then lay down the white patches and weather them separately - then finish with an all-over wash?

What do you reckon chaps?

I've got Friday off work (long weekend -ahhhh!) so I'll be making a start then. Also, I've got Vallejo Panzer Aces and Model colour paints (lots of) which I normally use for detailing - is the model air stuff any good for basecoats compared to Tamiyas? I hear it's a little soft and not so good?

I'll be keeping the build fairly simple but trying out some different techniques to obtain new effects. I was going to use the pin vice to put a few small arms hits into the side bins - that would work wouldn't it? I understand the bins weren't 'armoured' as such?

All feedback greatly received and much appreciated!

Cheers folks,

Ben

Ben,

The side bins were indeed sheet metal, no armor protection at all. As for your question about the weathering...remember that the white wash was water soluble...so while yes the panzer gray would have been weathered on its own (depending on the age/environment of the vehicle prior to whitewash), white doesn't stay "white" for very long and whitewash would weather much faster than normal paint. I think you would be better off from a simpler-is-best approach to just weather the finish instead of trying to create a different weathering for the gray and white areas separately.  While the real vehicle might have had very subtle differences in the weathering, trying to create that convincingly in 1/35 will be tough...you will have to add a lot more steps and seal/protect the weathering done on the panzer gray in some respect to achieve it IMHO. Now if you lightened the panzer gray areas with some fading or color modulation, that's a different story and is something I would recommend doing before applying the whitewash pattern. That's my anyhow.

Interesting Bill - thanks,

I'll paint it like you say and just keep the whitewash areas less 'solid'. That's how I did the Panzer and she turned out fine. My idea could be complicated at best like you say! Some fading on the Panzer Grey prior to the white being added would work well-good point.

I'm liking the idea of a few small arms hits in them side bins - nothing silly and OTT, just a few and a nice a focal point all the same.

I'll get cracking on her on Friday so watch this space!

All the best,

Ben

Ben,

Great to see your Tiger make it back to the bench! Sharp work so far.

You're tempting me too, I haven't built a Tiger in twenty years. Have a Dragon Royal Tiger in my stash but not one Tiger I - somehow that seems wrong.

Hello folks,

I decided to get things rolling with the Tiger I. A basecoat of XF-63 then some Flat white (no masking this time). It's certainly come out a LOT different than the Panzer III i.e. a bit pale as I went for more of an all-over white colouring deliberately leaving some patches of dark grey for the decals. This could look really good with Filters, washes and weathering etc.

I get some decals on her tomorrow and see how she looks.

Them flat white sidewalls will be a dream to weather with some streaking effects

Only one minor disaster - after air brushing I noticed (shock horror) that the horseshoe had gone from next to the drivers slit! I made up another and it's ok. If anyone has a 1/35 horseshoe  they don't need I'll gladly take it off your hands  Let me know what you think re me effort!

Some photos - remember she will darken up considerably during weathering:

Does my Horsshoe pass the scratchbuillding test? Will it do? 

Thanks for looking guys - I hope you like her at this point, I know I do! 

Horseshoe - ok?

Thanks chaps,

Ben

Moving right along with this one Ben. Horseshoe replacement looks good...maybe a bit on the large side but you could always say it came off a draft horse.

Hey Bill!

You like the paintjob? I was worried you lot would say it's too pale but like I said the heavy weathering will deal with that.

Funny what you said about the shoe - I said to my Dad "it's a little bit big-I'll have to say it came of a Shire horse. Same thing I think! 

Have you ever tried making a 1/35 horseshoe with no real scratching experience! Nightmare!

Cheers buddy, I'm really please you've given it the 'wbill seal of approval'!

All the best,

Ben

Looking real good!   I think the paint is OK... remember they will look a lot darker after couple of dark washes, correct?  

Hi chaps,

Right - I decided at the model meeting last night that I wanted some darker grey more visible on my Tiger so I've touched her up a fair bit and she came out looking a lot better. I also realised that I hadn't left a suitably positioned grey patch on one side for  the Balkenkreuz so that needed attending to.

As you'll see she has been decaled now as well. I put a light glosscoat (Vallejo dropper bottle gloss varnish from the ab) all over, laid decals then sealed the decals with more gloss but only on the decals-not all over. When I sealed them in I bought her into the house and realise that I'd put my fingers on the sides to pick it up and both Balkenkreuz came off in my hand (they were measured out and looked perfect) so I managed to pop them into the water again and re-varnish over them when re-fitted but two nasty fingerprints were left but they seem to be gone now after additional gloss was applied?

What a stupid newbie error but she looks superb now and I'm getting some good vibes from this build. The airbrushing looks great especially as it was my first attempt at full freehand. The deliberate light spatter works perfectly as I wanted it to look like the grey was peeping through the white but the grey is actually on top of the white in most places-really chuffed!

Please let me know what you think guys:

Thanks for looking guys!

I'd love to hear any comments or suggestion. I'm actually a bit sure on how to weather this one. It will get a blue Panzer Grey AK Filter but what about washes? Colour suggestion for washes? I like this colour I've got and want to keep it but it needs weathering.

I'll be doing some vertical streaking on the tureet and flat sidewalls and I'll be doing some grey sponge chipping on the white to show the whitewash wearing off.

I'd love to hear suggestions as this is important to me. So far this is my best spray work by miles (imo).

Take care,

Ben

If it were me I would have done the grey filter before the whitewash. I'm thinking this way  because a lot of the weathering would have been present before the whitewash was applied.

 The whitewash (being easily worn off) would cover those effects randomly depending on how fresh the camo was applied.

 This might be confusing so I hope I described it effectively.

No that's perfectly clear DM,

I really should have thought of that - one to remember!

So, now that I can't do that (other than starting again and losing my decals-no way) what do you recommend!

Having looked at my AK Panzer Grey Filter it's called 'Blue for Panzer Grey' and iirc I didn't like it too much when I used it before.

I'm thinking keep it light and sensible with some nice streaky bits - yum

Cheers dude!

Ben

If you want a nice, gritty looking Tiger, use a standard Raw Umber or Dark Umber wash. Then use diluted white acrylic to touch up and provide shading variations in the whitewash. Or, simply use a clean brush soaked in thinner to clean the wash off the white after it dries for about 10 minutes.

In my opinion, forget about that "blue tint". It's more of an "artistic" than a "realistic" thang--and you know how I love "artistic"--but I just think it is overdone.

Your paint is quite light, so I would think that you need some kind of a dark wash to give the model some definition. Also, a careful chipping and of metallic brown against the edges will look killer against that light paint.

Lots of potential here, Ben. Be fearless.

forget about that "blue tint". It's more of an "artistic" than a "realistic" thang

Oh, I don't know.

This is Tiger 110, scrubbed clean.

David

Byrden

forget about that "blue tint". It's more of an "artistic" than a "realistic" thang

 

Oh, I don't know.

This is Tiger 110, scrubbed clean.

David

 

I've seen real Panzer Grey in Germany, and there's no blue tint to it at all.

Most modern research in this area of panzer grey tends to favor a "warmer" grey with a reddish leaning more than a "cooler" grey with a bluer leaning---almost a blackish grey....from an artistic point of view I tend to also favor the bluish tint but for realism go dark... (warm)...

Hinksy

I really should have thought of that - one to remember!

So, now that I can't do that (other than starting again and losing my decals-no way) what do you recommend!

Ben

And another one to remember.

PATIENCE. 

 Don't get anxious.....  think it out, then think it again & again right up to the moment you commit. Put yourself in the tankers boots when you are thinking it out. It's easier to stop than do it over.

 If you've noticed, I'm not one to pour out battalions of tanks like water from a firehose. It's a hobby for me, not a contest.

 $30 to 50 bucks or up for a model is a LOT. This is the ONE good reason I always take my time.......there's always the next one so GET IT RIGHT - what is the hurry? 

Why do two or three mediocre builds ($30-$50 a kit) when you can do ONE that really STANDS OUT.  On the other hand, an inch at a time.....   you'll get there. I suppose everyone has to find their own way. You're doing fine and most importantly you don't quit.

SOOOOOOO......

"what do you recommend!"

............A lot of nice guys here.

 I'm thinking someone here on the forum has this very same kit and used the alternate build/decal option. Just ask, I would hope you might have a chance to get lucky for a trade or some other deal on the leftover markings.

Then you could show us a thing or two.

Well now, after 6 months, I think I'll crank up my airbrush.....

.....wait a minute (my boot's stuck) - let me think about that.....

GottaGo,

  Good Luck.

If you want to switch options, the "3" tank doesn't need any of the decals that you've used.

But it's probably a brush job rather than an airbrush job.

David

That's right but I think he wants those "EARS" though.

Cheers guys,

Karl - some nice tips and I like the one about using thinners to remove the wash from the white patches. Great stuff buddy.

David and DM - You two are talking like I'm gutted with my build and want to start over - no freakin' way  I'm loving it and she's moving along nicely. Shame on you

I have my plans for the build and am sticking to them-the idea of using a grey filter prior to the white application was something I should have thought of myself DM but no problem.

Like you say, I want my Tiger to have ears so she'll be staying as Tiger '100'!

Everything is going to plan very nicely and the paintwork in the flesh came out better than I'd ever hoped for  

All the best guys and on a serious note thanks for all the helpful input, it's really appreciated

Ben

Okaaaaaayyy......

Hey,

You saw that there DM!

You know your input is HIGHLY appreciated! Always!

Cheers buddy,

Ben

I'm so building my Tiger I after I finish this Semovente I'm working on. 

Hang in there Ben it will all come together. 

  Jus' messin' with 'ya!

disastermaster

  Jus' messin' with 'ya!

I know you are DM! It's nice having you along on the thread buddy to liven things up! Cheers and Happy Valentines too LOL!

Tigerman - you are so going to love this kit my friend! Are you building Tiger '100' with the ears like mine or one of the other variants with the rear stowage bin?

I think Tiger '3' (pictured on the last couple of pages-very white) could be a good build in as far as that paint scheme offers a lot of choice for the very experienced modeller like yourself i.e. it's a perfect candidate for a hairspray job!

I'm painting the wheels and additional bits this weekend - unfortunately I'm working a shift on both Saturday and Sunday this weekend so time may be limited-depends how busy we get. Hopefully it'll be totally dead as the kids are on half term break this week and the office is real quiet!

I'm trying to decide between using the DS tracks supplied with the kit which are very good OR splashing out on Friuls? I mean, DS tracks are great where sag isn't needed on return rollers like this Tiger but Friuls are just so cool-AK have bought out that blackening fluid for Friuls now which I want to try too!

Too much to think about - either way the tracks will wait, there's a long way to go yet!

Thanks for dropping in fellas,

Take care,

Ben

Ben, its prolly to late but if you need them (ie you wanted to redo the paint) I have spare set of decals from that kit (I' have AM ones).

Andrew

  A lot of good people here, see what I mean?

Hinksy

 

disastermaster:

 

  Jus' messin' with 'ya!

 

 

I know you are DM! It's nice having you along on the thread buddy to liven things up! Cheers and Happy Valentines too LOL!

Tigerman - you are so going to love this kit my friend! Are you building Tiger '100' with the ears like mine or one of the other variants with the rear stowage bin?

I think Tiger '3' (pictured on the last couple of pages-very white) could be a good build in as far as that paint scheme offers a lot of choice for the very experienced modeller like yourself i.e. it's a perfect candidate for a hairspray job!

I'm painting the wheels and additional bits this weekend - unfortunately I'm working a shift on both Saturday and Sunday this weekend so time may be limited-depends how busy we get. Hopefully it'll be totally dead as the kids are on half term break this week and the office is real quiet!

I'm trying to decide between using the DS tracks supplied with the kit which are very good OR splashing out on Friuls? I mean, DS tracks are great where sag isn't needed on return rollers like this Tiger but Friuls are just so cool-AK have bought out that blackening fluid for Friuls now which I want to try too!

Too much to think about - either way the tracks will wait, there's a long way to go yet!

Thanks for dropping in fellas,

Take care,

Ben

Actually, I have the Tiger I Late by Dragon. Number 6406 I think with DS tracks. I wanted to start that one after I completed my H-39 and then chose the Semovente instead. I finally scored some HTF Cavalier zimmerit for it.

Hinksy,

Good job on the painting.  I am at a very similar stage as you with my tank

I used the hair spray method for the whitewash (first time) and I liked the effect because in some areas it came off completely and in other areas it cracked or came off in little patches that made it look real natural.  I liked the hair spary method because I always found it very tedious to paint small patches or short lines to show paint wear.  I usually overdo it or something stupid.  With the H.S. method, it almost seems idiot proof.  (my kind of method).

(I can post pics if you wish)

I purchased AK Interactive's (I think) premixed washes for winter vehicles.  I may use this to weather my tiger, but I like Doog's suggestion and he never steered me wrong when reading his builds.

.

Hey Stuart,

I've tried the Hairspray method once and really liked it (I used my old Tamiya Hetzer as a test bed) and it worked ok. I actually used too much water and in the end I removed too much white so I'll be going back to that Hetzer and doing it again as that first hairspray attempt underneath will make a great base to show through. Doog said it was better to build up a few lighter layers than do it all in one big sweep so it's going ok.

Having paid a fair wedge of cash for the kit I'm a bit apprehensive about using the method on this kit. I need to buy a few cheaper Tamiya builds and get to grips with it on that before commiting to Dragon kits-I've seen a few ruined hairspray jobs and they ain't pretty!

I've got AK's entire range (just about) and love the Streaking Grimes they do. Mig's rainmarks are also effective but nothing beats the old oil paint dot streaking imo as long as it's done well (I only do my rust streaking with Mig and W&N oils - the other streaking is all AK or Mig).

I've spoke to Karl about his ideas and, wanting to increase my arsenal of weathering effects, will definately be trying the low-lighting he suggests. I've got to hit him for some more info yet before I start but it seems pretty straight forward.

I'd love to see photos btw buddy!

Thanks for dropping by Stuart,

All the best,

Ben

  I love the streakin' too.....

OK,,here is where I am at.  Almost simultaneous build.....

Still needs a bit of touch up, and some parts needs repaint (i.e. wooden tools and block on the back of the tank).  Also in process of applying the white wash to the wheels.

After that it's the mud, wash, streaking  and highlighting 

  Now y'all cookin'....

Stuart06

OK,,here is where I am at.  Almost simultaneous build.....

Still needs a bit of touch up, and some parts needs repaint (i.e. wooden tools and block on the back of the tank).  Also in process of applying the white wash to the wheels.

After that it's the mud, wash, streaking  and highlighting 

Hey Stuart,

Some mighty fine work buddy! Top job!

We are almost at the same place exactly - 2 modellers on the opposite sides of the globe (nearly), building the exact same kit and at the exact same point!

I've got all my tools to do too and as I'm working from home this weekend I'm not commiting myself to any 'serious' work like weathering as the phone will ring when I'm about to start, it always does. This is my last overtime weekend for a while so after this weekend it's all systems go! I shouldn't really be working Saturday but I offered to cover it for my buddy who's missus is expecting any time now - I was already down from Sunday anyway.

Anyway, All I'll be doing is getting the tools painted (not sure if I'm going to use the PE clamps yet - I might just use the tools with the moulded clamps as they look very good. I hate them bloody clamps in PE! The instructions give you a choice of both so I'm undecided as yet.

I'll also be painting the wheels and the RB Models Brass bucket I have for it too.

I don't know if you are blogging your build anywhere (I don't recall seeing it) but I'd love it if you wanted to post any progress photos on my thread - please feel free buddy.

Oh, are you using the DS kit tracks or Friuls out of interest?

Take care Stuart,

Ben

I would have used the tools with the moulded clamps...but I didn't notice them...would have saved frustration and time.....

I plan to use the Dragon kit supplied tracks.

I did take some shots of the build as i went, but not to many, and then stopped.  One day I would like to do what you are doing in posting the build as it goes,  but as the stages complete, sometimes I forget to take a picture and before I know it,,,the kit is assembled.

We have a long weekend here so  I hope ot get a bit done in the next three days.

Stuart06

I would have used the tools with the moulded clamps...but I didn't notice them...would have saved frustration and time.....

I plan to use the Dragon kit supplied tracks.

I did take some shots of the build as i went, but not to many, and then stopped.  One day I would like to do what you are doing in posting the build as it goes,  but as the stages complete, sometimes I forget to take a picture and before I know it,,,the kit is assembled.

We have a long weekend here so  I hope ot get a bit done in the next three days.

Hey Stuart,

If you could post a progress photo or five at the end of your long weekend (lucky sod) that would be great!!!!!! I'm loving your build and it will be great to see how you get on.

One thing I did notice on your build that you may want to change is the starter plate between the two rear exhausts. If you study the instructions they ask you to remove the two 'stubs' and not to fit the plate when building Tiger '100'. David Byrden confirmed this info to be correct on a previous post in this thread, obviously it's up to you - I just want my build to be as accurate as I can get it. Saying that I've seen a lot of these Tiger '100's assembled with the plate left intact but I'm sure you could remove the two stubs very easily and cover up any marks left behind.

I was going to use the DS tracks but yesterday it was announced that in our February pay packet we will be getting our quarterly bonus as the company has massively surpassed it's targets so that's an extra £100 to play with which will easily pay for Friuls, a bottle of the new AK Blackening solution for white metal tracks which I want to try AND the Dragon Soviet SU-85M I have on order with the LHS

I'm working from home today and tomorrow (2pm - 10pm). Not busy work, only covering the emergency phone and laptop to assist users of our service who are having problems. It's lashing it down with rain so that will hopefully keep them indoors this weekend. I'll really get stuck into the Tiger next weekend which is totally free so this weekend I'll be painting the road wheels only. If I try to do anymore the phone always rings and totally ruins my concentration!

Take care matey,

Ben

Hey chaps,

As I mentioned previously I knew I'd be working from home all weekend covering the 'emergency technical support phone' for work so I knew I'd not be doing a great deal this weekend. What I did want to do was complete the tyres.

I mounted the wheels on extra long matchsticks which have a very broad 'stick' and the wheels push onto them nicely. The match end was pushed into Oasis flower arranging foam which is very solid and ideal for this job. I made up a rough 'rubber' mix which is Tamiya Dark Grey 70% and 30% Flat Black.

I painted the entire wheels with this colour as the ones the sit back nearest the tank won't be having the hubs painted - all the others will. I was going to paint the hubs later on yesterday but then remembered what happened last time I used Quick Wheel Masks - the sticky bit that you push the rubber bit that has to be masked pulled off some of the rubber colour so I left them as they were yesterday when painted 'Rubber' and I'm going to seal them with a Matt coat before going back and hitting the hubs - I hope this will stop the rubber being pulled away in any places.

Anyway, I've done a dry fit and they look and fit ok. The ATL-16 Friuls for the Early Tiger I's are now ordered and I also ordered some AK Blackening Fluid to try to colour them. I'm not too worried about the wheels being PERFECT as there's going to be a lot of mud down there!

The kit offers the option of leaving the front outside roadwheel off and a 'thingy' put on the end of the 'thingy it would oush onto. Apparently this was done a lot as the mud would clog up around the front drive sprockets when all the outside roadwheels were fitted? I think this option looks pretty cool.

Next weekend is all mine and I'm going to trying this low-lighting and sponge chippping on the white using the basecoat colour to show the white wearing off. You can also see my RB Bucket too. I wanted one as the original version of this kit came with a bucket and I'm planning to paint it up blue like a bucket pinched from the civilians and I'll paint the inside bottom all white so it looks like a whitewash bucket!

Here she is with dry fitted wheels - remember to ignore the hubs as they are yet to be paint:

Thanks guys,

Sorry I don't have more to show but it was a busy old weekend with work and all

Take care,

Ben

Stuart: Wow, very nice work there.

Ben: Congrads on the bonus! And double congrads on blowing most of it on models and supplies Haven't said much since the others giving you advice know waaaaaayyyyyy more than me. Still I will say nice work!

Cliff

Hey Ben,your project is looking great,but I believe that ATL-16 Fruils are for King Tiger and Jagdtiger,aren't they ?

  It is looking better and better every time you post an update.  I am glad you are taking your time with this.  That's a huge difference there... looking forward to see it done.

Tojo72

Hey Ben,your project is looking great,but I believe that ATL-16 Fruils are for King Tiger and Jagdtiger,aren't they ?

Try these:

ATL-25 is not right for Tiger "100".

It had mirrored left-right tracks.

David

Well, does fruilmodel make the mirrored sets?

Yes, it's ATL-116.

David

Byrden

Yes, it's ATL-116.

David

Hi guys,

Thanks for taking the time to debate what tracks I should use!

The kit supplied DS tracks total three lengths. there is one pair of left and right handed tracks and an additional track which is left handed so you can make up a tank with left handers on either side-one side (right) having reversed lefties.

As David said - these look like the beasties! Cheers David

Cheers guys,

Ben

I know the Fruil's are great tracks but have a look at the AFV ones as well. They are styrene but look great when built and will cost you at most half the price of the Fruil's. I cant remember if the ones I have for my early Tiger are mirrors but they are well worth a look

Phil

That's better Ben,I hoped you weren't waitng for ATL-16,those are for the King Tiger

Tojo72

That's better Ben,I hoped you weren't waitng for ATL-16,those are for the King Tiger

Yep-they'd have been a bit of a squeeze! I'd actually asked the chap who supplies Friuls and Brass goddies in the UK for AT-16 tracks for the Initial Production Tiger. When I realised my mistake I phoned him and he said he knew exactly what I wanted. He'll be posting them tomorrow.

I'm assuming that these will be two runs of left handed tracks - the right side tracks being left handed but fitted reversed?

If I wanted handed tracks what would I need (the 25's I assume)? That said it wouldn't be an 'accurate' Tiger '100' then as that had a pair of left handed tracks?

Is it a big deal or just a case of if you wanted to be as accurate as possible? I mean, it wouldn't be a disaster to fit early handed tracks-just the way to go to make a true Tiger '100'?

Thanks guys,

Ben

Hey Ben, read all about track directions HERE. 

Tiger "100" always wore mirrored tracks, i.e. the left and right links were different.

David

Byrden

Tiger "100" always wore mirrored tracks, i.e. the left and right links were different.

David

Cheers guys - very helpful link there DM

116 it is then!

All the best,

Ben

Hi guys,

Saturday wip update!

All the wheels are painted up and look fine - I think my rubber mix must have been way too dark as it's almost impossible to tell where the metal ends and the rubber starts but no problem as the hubs will be washed and muddied up so all will be well

For the minute I've slopped on some of Mig's 'Winter Camouflage Wash' which looks great and with the mud and umber washes over the top will look even better.

The ATL-116 Mirror Tracks arrived right on cue this morning and my AK Burnishing Fluid (basically a type of Blacken It) arrived yesterday so although I didn't get much done today as I went out with the folks for the afternoon tomorrow should just about see the Friuls complete. Every link needs drilling out which is a real time eater but I find Friul assembly relaxing so I won't complain.

This is the first time I've used Tiger Friuls and they look excellent-and massive! The crew must have had a nightmare swapping tracks over or carrying out maintenance on the real things!

After this build I'll be building everything in my stash (Bronco's Comet, Dragon's Soviet SU-85M and their Dragon IC Hybrid Firefly and also Tamiya's Willys MB Jeep so I'll be 'going green' for the rest of of 2012 as it will even things up in my cabinet but after they are done and I'm building German again my first build will DEFINATELY be a later Zimmed Tiger I with Summer Cammo - I have really enjoyed building this beastie! 

Here are few quick photos to show progress - the wheels are all properly fitted now btw:

Mig's brilliant Winter Cammo Wash and the Initial Type ATL-116 Mirrored Friuls: 

Thanks for looking folks.

I'd love to hear any comments etc.

I'll post an update tomorrow which hopefully show completed Friuls - I doubt I'll have enough time to Blacken them but that can be done any morning this week seeing as I work the afternoon shift

Take care guys and all the best,

Ben  

That's a sweet Tiger, Ben.  Kind of an unusual choice for a first Tiger.  The double side bins really make it look strange.  Same unit markings as the III N?

Satch

satch_ip

That's a sweet Tiger, Ben.  Kind of an unusual choice for a first Tiger.  The double side bins really make it look strange.  Same unit markings as the III N?

Satch

Cheers Satch,

Same markings matey yep.

I've built a couple of 1/48 Tigers before (Tamiya) but wanted something better for the cabinet. I'd seen the Tiger '100' featured in magazines and at shows and really wanted to build it.

I'll finish this one and then later I'll build a late model Tiger I with zim etc.

Cheers buddy,

Ben

Nice work on the Tiger so far Ben.
Following your build with a lot of interest since I have the same kit waiting.
Looking forward to see how those tracks are going to turn out :)

Very Best Regards
Johan 

You pushed me into using Friulmodel tracks.  Now you are trying to get me hooked to another MIG product?   Never heard about this before and I have several MIG washes and they work great as long as you don't overdo!

Can't wait to see it with full tracks on!  You plan to use new AK or Blacken-it product?

deafpanzer

You pushed me into using Friulmodel tracks.  Now you are trying to get me hooked to another MIG product?   Never heard about this before and I have several MIG washes and they work great as long as you don't overdo!

Can't wait to see it with full tracks on!  You plan to use new AK or Blacken-it product?

Hey Andy,

That Mig Winter Cammo Wash is great if you really do want to make your whitewash look like it is slapped on with mops etc!

I ran out of time with the Friuls today and still got one run left to go so I'll try and spend an hour making a run every morning before work (I don't start until 2pm) so next weekend I'll be ready to blacken them.

I've got the AK Burnishing stuff for these tracks ready to go. I normally use Tim Ivatts Black Track. His stuff treats 2-3 sets of tracks and costs the same as this AK stuff which treats 1 set. I'll see how these come out and decide. I mean, I only use Friuls every few months so the odd tenner won't hurt. The problem with Tim's stuff is that you can treat the first set and they look great but the second set never looks as good plus his method involves three types of liquid, the AK method is far more simple!

http://www.affinitymodels.co.uk/p94037/AK-159--INTERACTIVE-BURNISHING-FLUID/b0-2537-2537 (the new AK stuff)

http://www.tihobbies.co.uk/ (my usual Friul stuff)

Next week I'll see which gives the best results. I've watched the you tube videos on using this stuff and the AK seems so easy. One bottle, use it and throw away!

Oh-a question! At present the rear idlers are not glued in place, it's just pushed into the hole and swivels therefore tensioning or slackening the tracks. Do I leave it this way or do I find a good fit and glue the idlers in that position?

Cheers guys,

Ben

I would fix the idlers in position once you have the tracks positioned and slack arranged. It not only makes life easier when moving the model around for photos and placement in your display cabinet (and moving around later if you need to), the weight of the Fruils over time will need a strong support to stay in place.

Hey Bill,

That's what I was thinking of doing but thought it it best to make sure.

I sat down to write my PPP (Personal Performance Plan) for work which I estimated would take 1 hour. It actually took four - thus eating into valuable modelling time

Before I started typing my plan I'd got a run of about 30 links assembled so when I was finished I decided to drill out all remaining links plust a few for the spares up front

With all links pre-drilled now and I easily get 20 put together every morning which means AK Friul burnishing and the start of weathering next weekend!

I cannot wait to get these blackened and rusted up a bit - these big Friuls really do look the business!

It's been so annoying this weekend as I thought I had a whole two days to myself i.e. yesterday and this morning to assemble the Friuls which arrived yesterday morning and this afternoon to Burnish them and mount the spares up front with the second retaining bar in place. With that daft Performance thingy and the meal out yesterday my two sessions at the bench turned out to be literally a couple of hours!

Ahh well, next weekend is definately mine as the folks are away and I'm not working. I might turn all the phones off in the house next weekend! It would be great to be able to go into next weekend all set to start the weathering!

Anyway chaps, have a great week and take care

All the best,

Ben   

Hi chaps,

Here's a bit of an update as to where I am with Tiger '100':

The plan was to have all the Friuls assembled by yesterday latest as I was planning to make a run every morning thus enabling me to do the Blacking and paint the tools this weekend BUT I'm having to work all of the overtime that I can get this month for saving funds towards a decent holiday this year. I woorked yesterday from home and finished one complete run of Friuls whilst I was keeping an eye on the work phone and have finished the other run today. I'm working next Saturday too then I've two free weekends all to myself - I reckon I could have this one in the bag by the end of March but I definately won't be rushing her!

The realistic plan of action is to remove the Friuls now for Blackening near the end of the build. Next Saturday whilst I'm working I'll paint up and fit all of the tools. Next Sunday I'll look at adding a light wash, doing some sponge work on the white areas using the grey basecoat mix and I'll be lusing Karls low-lighting recommendation (Umber oil mixes with some Enamel Mettalic Silver to make a Metallic brown to be added to the side walls etc in a dry brushing fashion. Obviously the usual streaks and pigments will play their parts

This may sound like a total newbie questionI'm still a bit unsure of the colours to use when adding tiny chips on top of the Grey basecoat with a very small brush? Also will a light Umber wash work all over or will it ruin the white patches?

Ideally should I be adding chips and sponging etc pre or post any washes. What will work best in your opinions? Is there a 'best way'?

Where I'm at right now:

I'll be adding the top spare link reataining bar after the links have been Blackened:

 AK's Friul Burnishing (Blackening) Fluid:

Thanks for looking guys,

Sorry it's slow-going but time is at a premium this month!

If any has suggestion on washes and the best chipping colours I'd love to hear them!

Have a great week folks and take care,

Ben

Ben,

In answer to your weathering questions...the answer is "it depends". It's a question of layering and desired effect. If you do the chipping/sponge stuff before the washes...then they will appear as being underneath the washes, fading, etc. that you apply. If you do them after, then they will apper as being on top of them. All comes down to the type of look you are trying to replicate. A light umber wash will not ruin the white patches but it will alter their color...so you need to think through that in terms of "seeing" the end result in your mind's eye. If you want the white patches to wear/weather and blend in with the gray, then the wash will accomplish that. HTH.

That's cool. Thanks Bill

Hi guys,

At last I've had an entire 6 hours modelling time without distractions today. Week upon week it's work or family but not this week!

I've blackened the Friul's using AK's new Burnishing fluid. It worked well-it didn't leave them looking rusted though, just rough and blackened like newer tracks in use would look like. I used Mig's standard Rust Effects Wash to add the rust - the effect, after filing the raised parts to expose worn metal, is VERY good.

So tracks done, I painted the tools, fitted the spare links up front and painted the rear Jack Block.

She is looking really nice now so tomorrow I'll be starting the weathering. I'm still not 100% on how far to take it so I'll be super cautious-there's no rush!

I hope you like what I've done today - she's got potential! 

Tools Fitted:

Burnishing the tracks (note: the guide asks for the links to be cleaned with soapy water - DON'T DO IT! AK messed up - you should use Vinegar and then water with a toothbrush to scrub the links prior to treatment).

I might have left them in for a couple of minutes too long but no problem!

Thanks for looking guys,

I didn't expect to get anywhere near this point today and I didn't rush so I'm pretty chuffed!

I'm starting with a light all-over Umber Oil Fitler/Wash tomorrow then some streaking. Then chipping and drybrushing, then a matt coat and finally some mud and pigment work.

By then end of next weekend I reckon she'll be in the cabinet!

As always, please let me have any suggestions or comments!

Cheers guys and enjoy the rest of the weekend,

Ben 

Lookin' good pardner !!!

Hi guys,

Good progress made again today

I've concentrated totally on upper hull weathering only. The mufflers and wading extensions have been rusterised using Mig light and old rust pigment and the tips topped off with black soot pigment.

Deeper chipping is shown by the use of Hull Red colours applied with a 5/0 brush. I applied a very light all-over Raw Umber W&N Oil Wash; more than a Filter but not quite a Wash and it looked good.

Some AK Winter and grime streaks with a few light rust streaks did the trick. Similar was done on the turret, turret roof and frontal armour. I used a bit of Mig Fuel Spill/Grease and two flat brown streaks from the engine area down the side wall on the left with Tamiya Clear painted with the brown to give a 'wet look'. 

Next week I'll be finishing this beast. I started on the on the upper hull today as next work is all about the running gear will see some mud work on the lower hull under the fenders and pigment work on the outside road wheel walls. I'll be adding some lightened basecoat superficial chips on top but that will be all. A final matt coat and pigment will look good and finish it off nicely (I hope)

Check her out gents:

So, here is where I'm at. The helmet came with the kit and on the PE Fret there are nice straps so it can be hung anywhere - not decided yet. The bucket (from RB) I will use as I'm going to make it look like there was Whitewash in this bucket. The snow shovel - again, undecided!

I've really enjoyed this build and will definately be building a late Tiger I at some point with Zim etc.

I know Andy Deafpanzer got this kit for Christmas and I know he'll do something very special - C'mon Andy!

Thanks for looking - please post comments and suggestions

Take care,

Ben

Looks great !!!

My only nitpick would be with the jackblock...... 

    needs a bit more work to match the quality of the rest of the build.

Hey DM,

Thanks buddy - I'm really pleased with her.

Karl urged me to experiment and experiment I did.

Thanks for the heads-up on the Jack Block. It is waaaay too neat so next weekend I'll attend to that.

I'm glad you like her

Take care,

Ben

Afraid i lost track of this build, sorry Ben. She has come out great. I like the finish on the tracks. I didn't know AK did that for Fruils. I may just have to get some.

How come you went for Fruils over the kit tracks.

Bish

Afraid i lost track of this build, sorry Ben. She has come out great. I like the finish on the tracks. I didn't know AK did that for Fruils. I may just have to get some.

How come you went for Fruils over the kit tracks.

Thanks Bish,

Try the AK stuff mate - it definately darkens them but doesn't  really 'rust' them (I couldn't get them to rust up anyway) so you'll need to do that separately. Tim's Track Black stuff is the one to go for imo.

I was going to go with the kit tracks (DS tracks btw, not Magic Tracks). They look ok but don't sit right so Friuls it was and they really do the job. This thing is getting pretty heavy now!

Glad you like her - she'll hopefully be a contender for personal best build when fully weathered. Just pigments and mud on the running gear and fenders to go!

Cheers buddy,

Ben

I am planning on getting a variety of AK items for weathering. It was a toss up between AK and MiG and i have decided to go for AK. I will add that track stuff to the list. By the way, where do you get your AK products. I can only find places that do a part of the range, short of getting them direct.

I don't like rusting tracks much, it just doesn't happen. The end results you have got there look spot on to me. I have the other Dragon kit of this tank and i can't remember what the tracks are. I didn't realise Fruil did a set of mirrored tracks, i better check on that.

Again, looking great, and looking forward to seeing how you get on with the pigments. Thats my next step in armour weathering.

Sa-Weet!  Are you going to enter that in a contest there?  It's a winner!  Your progression has amazed me, Ben.  Let me hoist a pint to you.

Satch

Thanks Satch,

Thanks for the !

Over here in Blighty we have the Hinckley (it's a little town near me) Model Show and my local club have a few tables and if I can get someone to cover my overtime shift I'll be going for the day - otherwise I'll only be going for a look round at the end of my shift at 2pm.

Failing that I'll be going to the next show which again is nearby and we have a table there too.

I'd like to have my most recent StuG III B, Pz III Ausf N and of course this Tiger. The Pz III is also painted in a similar scheme and falls under the 'Leningrad' banner, the idea being this Tiger could be a cabinet mate for my Pz III.

I'm glad you like her anyway. One more bench session and she'll be complete  

Bish: Thanks too matey. The AK range is great - Their Filters/Washes and streaking effects in particular are just excellent and will last an age too.

I use Creative Models-excellent fast service:

http://www.creativemodels.co.uk/paints_pigments_filters_washes-c-5_76.html?oscsid=ab12909c8f69b027384e681e1f027e55

The link I've given you is to the AK page of Creative Models - the top few items (Rust Streaks, Winter Streaking Grime and Streaking Grime are my personal faves. Get a few different filters and streaking effects definately. I've got the AK DVD so let me know if you want to borrow it. It really helps when starting to use AK stuff. Fuel spills / Grease stains is very good too - either from Mig or AK.

As for pigments I'm happy with MIG but anyone does them i.e. Vallejo or AK. I'll stick with MIG as I've got so much of the stuff but the range of colours is great anyway and has me well covered. 

Have a good week guys,

Ben .

Thanks Ben. I hadn't checked them for AK stuff. At the top of my AK shopping list is the streaking grimes and the stuff for Pz Grey. Going to be a while before i get back to armour, but i will make sure i am stocked up by the time i do.

Looks like your experimentation has paid off Ben! Only small suggestion I would make is to tone down the orange rust on the exhausts a bit and/or introduce a bit more darker color variation to keep it interesting but not quite so strong. Purely a taste suggestion though. Best of luck with the show if you enter!

Ben, in re Bill's post above, you can use some black pastel chalk or charcoal and brush it over the orange to tone it down and give it more of a burnt rust look.  Cheaper than Mig pigments.

Ben, ben, ben, my good ol' English friend, I have to say this is your BEST work so far.  Everybody has noticed that you are turning into a master after every model.  Can't wait to see how it comes out at the end! 

I finally brought two sets of inactive washes at the show yesterday.  Of course I had to get another Tiger kit.  I think you are right... Big Cats GB is overdue!  

deafpanzer

Big Cats GB is overdue!  

You got that right. 2008 was the last one.

Holy cow!  That's five years ago... who was the host?  I'd sign up only in the fall... can't commit more GBs until I finish mine first.  Unless it will last for a year or so...

It was a guy called SmJ modeller. He hasn't been around for a while. Its a pity as he built some great stuff and was one of those who helped me get into doing washes.

His Big Cats GB was my first ever GB and my first build after getting back into the hobby. I was thinking of hosting one myself, maybe next year when i am setteled back into things. I can't really commit to any new GB's at the moment.

Well, blow me away, Ben, I do believe that you're finally getting the hang of proper weathering!

Nice to see a properly-beat-up Tiger! It looks great, honestly.

deafpanzer

I finally brought two sets of inactive washes at the show yesterday.  Of course I had to get another Tiger kit.  I think you are right... Big Cats GB is overdue!  

Ah hem....  Hello Kitty GB?  Maybe now it will get some traction.

Beautifully done Ben! I have saved this post for referance because of all your in depth comments.

satch_ip

 

deafpanzer:

 

I finally brought two sets of inactive washes at the show yesterday.  Of course I had to get another Tiger kit.  I think you are right... Big Cats GB is overdue!  

 

 

 

Ah hem....  Hello Kitty GB?  Maybe now it will get some traction.

Oops! I thought it was for wings things when I saw Doogs plane WIP.  Like i said I earlier I can not sign up more until I finish mine first.  Anything after September sounds good hopefully.  Can't wait to work on your kit Panzer III Ausf K in few months or so. 

My first look at this build was tonight  . The weathering has really made her come to life !