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DML Brummbar Mid COMPLETE 07-30-12

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, June 18, 2012 12:02 PM

Thanks Tony!

Steve, yep the shelf has a "dome" cover for the protruding exhaust pipe. As you can see from the design, space is at a premium (even more so with the schurzen fitted) so they added a treadplate step shelf over the exhaust to make it possible for the crew to get access to the fighting compartment from the engine deck. Thanks for the comments!

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Rain USA, Vancouver WA
Posted by tigerman on Monday, June 18, 2012 12:34 PM

Pvt Mutt

Keep her coming Tex.Cool

Tony lee

Tony, where you been? Haven't seen you in a spell.

   http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/wing_nut_5o/PANZERJAGERGB.jpg

 Eric 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, July 1, 2012 5:09 PM

Managed to get in a good bit of work on the Brummbar this weekend and have some solid progress to report as a result. First up, some "pre-weathering" attention was given to the lower hull and running gear. I stippled some MM enamel Burnt Umber to simulate scuffs and scrapes and also applied some MM metalizer non-buffing Steel to the contact surfaces on the return rollers, idlers, and sprocket teeth. I used blue-tack to dry-fit the sprockets and did a test fit of the MK track runs to see how many links I needed to add to get the sag I wanted. 99 links in total did the trick and the idlers are still movable to allow for final adjustments when the tracks are permanently installed later on.

I also worked on the hull front spare track runs. I used the kit-supplied Magic tracks for these to add some visual variety since the solid-horn type of tracks were a later type than the main track runs with their hollow guide horns. I used a #76 finger drill to open up the track pin holes on the first and last links of the larger run on the hull nose for some added detail there and the small cleat faces needed to be trimmed off to allow them to fit into the holder due to the zim pattern reducing the clearance a bit. Both track runs were given a base coat of MM non-buffing metalizer Gunmetal, lightly dry-brushed with enamel Steel, and  followed by a couple of applications of a Rust wash. I added some dry-brushed enamel Burnt Umber for variety and installed them into position. I also detailed the driver's periscope while I was at it.

Those were the last remaining details needing attention, so the entire vehicle was airbrushed with Future acrylic floor polish straight out of the bottle to seal in the paint work and prep for the coming weathering stages. I applied the simple decal markings consisting of a single-digit hull number and crosses using Walther's Solvaset to get them to lay down over the zim surface. A 2nd coat of Future to seal in the decals and she's all set for the next stage of the finishing process.

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: beacon falls , Ct.
Posted by treadwell on Sunday, July 1, 2012 5:52 PM

Man Bill,she just looks great !  I love the periscope looking out the the roof plate...ya really got the science down to an artYesYes.... and you are dependable ! it's Sunday, I'm enjoying my dinner and I know you will be posting !   LOL

treadCool

   

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, July 1, 2012 7:23 PM

Thanks Tread! I do my best to keep to a regular schedule...hope you had something good for dinner! Wink

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Sunday, July 1, 2012 7:28 PM

Looking good Bill .Yes

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Sunday, July 1, 2012 8:28 PM

Ahhh....coming around the clubhouse turn.....almost at the finish line. I know summer is a female dog when it comes to getting bench time....every little bit helps!!

Looking good as usual

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, July 2, 2012 7:37 PM

Thanks Carl!

Mike

, getting closer...and yes, summer time distractions can be a royal pain...but it could be worse! Thanks for the support as always my friend. Beer
  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Schroon Lake, NY
Posted by SMJmodeler on Tuesday, July 3, 2012 8:21 AM

"Both track runs were given a base coat of MM non-buffing metalizer Gunmetal, lightly dry-brushed with enamel Steel, and  followed by a couple of applications of a Rust wash."

Bill: A little clarifiaction if you would please...The tracks look much more rusty/orange based on this description.  I really like how they look and I'd like to confirm this was all you did to achieve the effect.  

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, July 3, 2012 9:03 AM

Steve,

Almost, you missed the next sentence that completes the full process. I also dry brushed some enamel Burnt Umber after the Rust washes to tone it down a bit and add some variety to the final look. Wink Beer

I should also issue a small caution that the lacquer-based metalizer paints won't tolerate an aggressive application of the wash or it will lift right up...so you have to apply the wash lightly with single brush passes (no multiples!) and then wait patiently for it to dry before adding another pass if desired. Might take a little practice if you aren't used to them the first time out.

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Schroon Lake, NY
Posted by SMJmodeler on Tuesday, July 3, 2012 11:28 AM

Missed thatDunce...thanks Bill Yes!!!

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Dublin Rep Of Ireland
Posted by terry35 on Tuesday, July 3, 2012 4:59 PM

Hi, Bill glad to see you are nearly closing this project, it looks really cool and I must admit that when I looked at mine when I bought it I thought cutting the camo at schurzen height was a great idea.

Hope your keeping well and College is going well for you.

Terry.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Wednesday, July 4, 2012 2:45 PM

Thanks terry, nice to see you pop in for a visit! Summer's moving along and I'm halfway through the MBA program as of Thursday, so I've reached that tipping point at least! Beer

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, July 6, 2012 2:38 AM

Looking very nice bill. I do like that paint scheme.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Friday, July 6, 2012 4:53 AM

Looks good Bill. Looking forward to the steps you take to make that zim pop.

Marc  

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Spring Branch, TX
Posted by satch_ip on Friday, July 6, 2012 5:37 AM

Really nice, Bill.  I've bookmarked your blog for later step by step reference.  You got me through the Pz IV C and you'll get me through the Brumbar.  Maybe a King Tiger next?

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Friday, July 6, 2012 4:14 PM

Bish

, thanks as always for the comments!

marc

, weathering a zim finish always presents a different set of challenges but that's half the fun! Looking forward to it myself as they never quite come out exactly the same from one build to the next. Wink

satch

, happy to help in any way I can! No idea what I will tackle next, haven't given it much thought but I suppose I should start going about selecting the next victim at some point. Will have to see what "speaks" to me out of the stash I guess.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, July 6, 2012 4:20 PM

Ye, i am looking forward to seeing how you weather it. I have only done one Zimmed vehicle since i started doing washes, but that was a very light weathering. So hopeing to pick up some more tips.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: San Francisco Bay Area
Posted by bufflehead on Saturday, July 7, 2012 8:09 PM

Oh yeah, its coming along great Bill!!  The Atak zim looks fabulous, and so does the camo.  I don't envy you painting all those roadwheels, PLUS the spares, though!!  Dead  BTW, I noticed the camo matches the kit box cover art!!  

Ernest

Last Armor Build - 1/35 Dragon M-26A1, 1/35 Emhar Mk.IV Female

     

Last Aircraft Builds - Hobby Boss 1/72 F4F Wildcat & FW-190A8

     

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, July 8, 2012 10:44 AM

Thanks Ernest! Road wheels on Pz IVs are always a fun task...a necessary evil! The kit's finishing guide and decal set is pretty limited, you get the choice of 3 vehicles all from the same unit with the same pattern. Big Smile Since I had a reference photo of vehicle #1 without the schurzen on, I went that route. Glad you like it!

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, July 8, 2012 4:33 PM

The latest round of effort focused on the tracks and beginning the weathering process for the exterior. First step with the tracks involved airbrushing a base coat of MM enamel Burnt Umber and letting that thoroughly set up and cure before proceeding with the next steps. This is something I had done last week, so they had a full week to sit before work began with them.

Next step involved dry-brushing MM enamel Steel with a 00 round sable brush. This adds a metallic look to the links and replicates the contact wear from the idlers, return rollers, and sprocket teeth.

 

Track on the left has been fully dry-brushed, track on the right is in the base coat only to show the contrast.

Next step involves applying a wash of enamel Raw Umber using the same 00 brush. The wash isn't applied too heavily but is used to blend in the Steel from the previous step and provide a more subtle look/feel to the track.

Track on left after wash, track on right pending wash application to show the contrast.

This gets the tracks ready for pigment weathering in later steps, I also dry-brushed Steel on the track faces but didn't apply the Raw Umber wash there as there's no real point to that and it runs the risk of getting thinner into the pins, which can make the runs brittle potentially.

I turned to the exterior and started the weathering process with the application of an enamel Raw Umber wash. This is only a foundation for the later dot filtering steps and will get blended in with that process.

In the course of applying the wash I noticed something strange going on around the barrel sleeve. At first I thought a small hair had gotten left behind by one of the brushes but closer examination revealed it was a series of hairline cracks.

I hadn't dropped the vehicle and it hadn't taken any damage, so I can only assume this is a legacy from the fit issues I had earlier with the ball mantlet. A quick check on the other side revealed similar cracks appearing there also. These didn't show up during the assembly process or during painting, but we have had a lot of rain lately and perhaps the increased humidity caused it to flex and reveal the cracks.

I had to give this some thought as to how best to repair and settled on liquid glue to fill the cracks and restore some integrity to the sleeve. I used finger pressure to help seal the cracks but that alone wasn't enough, so some added putty work was necessary. I used small amounts of Squadron White putty rolled over the cracks with a round toothpick and carefully sanded down with a sanding twig. The liquid glue application revealed the extent of the damage was greater than I had originally thought.

Some careful work with a detail brush and some light dry-brushing restored the finish.

I'm going to let that sit and fully cure and then will have to re-seal the barrel sleeve with Future before the weathering can proceed. Didn't get as far as I wanted to as a result of the repairs but glad they surfaced now instead of later on when it would've been much harder to fix!

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, July 8, 2012 4:43 PM

Nice repair job on the barrel. Have you removed the excess wash or is it just a very light one to get into the Zimm.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: San Francisco Bay Area
Posted by bufflehead on Sunday, July 8, 2012 4:44 PM

Nice recovery from the cracks in the barrel Bill!  Funny how they just appeared, I never heard of that happening before.  BTW, did you change how you want your photos to show up?  Instead of photos there are just links to your photos on your website...??  Still works, I was just wondering.

Anyway, great blog as always!  Thanks for the update!

Ernest

Last Armor Build - 1/35 Dragon M-26A1, 1/35 Emhar Mk.IV Female

     

Last Aircraft Builds - Hobby Boss 1/72 F4F Wildcat & FW-190A8

     

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, July 8, 2012 4:47 PM

Ernest, do you mean the photos in his posts, because i can see the pics not the links.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, July 8, 2012 4:55 PM

Bish,

No removal of the Raw Umber wash has happened yet except on the barrel where I needed to do the repairs. The applied wash is a light one (heavier on the hull undersides and suspension) to provide some color tone to work in with the dot filters to come. After that, a heavier pin wash of Burnt Umber will be used to bring out some of the details.

Ernest,

Sorry about the links vs. pics...the forums behave differently now with copy/paste text (I compose the updates on my own site first and copy over here for the updates) and I had to go in and edit the links so they would display the pics. You got to see the links while Bish saw the correction with the photos showing properly. Like you, I've never heard or encountered that kind of cracking before...only thing I can think of is that they are stress cracks that were revealed by the wash application and some of the thinner got into that area where the barrel sticks out and that was enough to get them to "let go" and be revealed. Thanks as always for the comments! Beer

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, July 8, 2012 5:05 PM

Thanks bill, i am watching closely. Odd about those cracks showing up now.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Right Side of a Left State
Posted by Shellback on Sunday, July 8, 2012 6:26 PM

Bill glad you saved it ! That can be frightening ! I had an issue like that on a Hasegawa aircraft . I had to stress the rear fuselage where the opening is for the jet exhaust nozzle . One half was rounder than the other so i forced it into the correct shape with finger pressure . It looked fine until i did a wash inside the fuselage opening . I think i used enamel thinner . All around the opening these fine hairline cracks appeared and the plastic became brittle . I had a heck of a time repairing the damage . In my case it was the  effect that the enamel thinner has on plastic .Seems to make it brittle . The effect does not appear to be the same on all kits . Maybe its a difference in the plastic used ?

Anyway i'm liking your results .Toast

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Sunday, July 8, 2012 7:56 PM

Oh my....it would appear you were firing more than a full charge....glad the armorer caught it before it became a problem....looks like he is well on the way to the fix.

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: ohio
Posted by vonryan on Sunday, July 8, 2012 9:46 PM

hey Bill as always awesome work!!! now are those Dragons Magic tracks??? and you make your own umber??? CRAP why do i work on models again???

Clay

  • Member since
    April 2012
Posted by Reserve on Monday, July 9, 2012 12:00 AM

Nice recovery there. For reasons similar to the trouble you are having I stopped using enamel thinner for washes, altho I had a bit more of an issue as the kit was pretty well trashed past recovery. Nowadays I've been using mineral spirits, seems to be much milder than thinner and works just as well. Not, mind, the green type mineral spirits that look like blue milk, it has to be the clear smelly stuff.

 

A fine looking job here as usual, guess Texas rules again.

 

Regards,

Mark

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