Dragon Elefant w/Zimmerit - Now Complete! Final Photo Update March 9th:

Looks like a fun project Ben, the Elefant did indeed have all-steel road wheels, no rubber on those puppies.

I think the Elefant is my favorite TD of WW II, even more so then the Jagdpanther. I just love the brute look to them and that 88mm....whoooo!

I built the older Elefant and it went together well. Just watch the directions, because I recall the running gear being backwards or something to that nature. I have the Ferdy premium in my stash, because I was unhappy with my camo and decals. Also I used DS tracks, which were great, but less detailed then the indy tracks.

Cheers guys,

Steel-wheels! Sorted

I'd like to have PE Fenders for this to beat up a bit but I'll see what I can do.

The DS tracks are ok but as I'll probably only be turning out 3-4 builds this year (I can only build at weekends - work is crazy busy and will get even worse next year as we've just taken on a big new contract). That basically means I'll be using Friuls on the builds that don't have Magic Tracks (like this one). Although they look ok, if I'm putting in a lot of time and effort on a build Friuls are a definate!

This should build up pretty quickly - it doesn't have a massive amount of parts so that's more time for painting & weathering the build, painting a decent figure (hopefully) and building the base. I want to keep the base simple but this time it will be a bit bigger and the plinth type base really looks good. I plan to make up a simple groundwork utilising Jerry cans, random stowage and a figure to give a good sense of scale. The nameplate can go on the side of the plinth.

If you do have any links to good Elefant info or photos I'd love to see what you've got.

Thanks guys,

Ben

Hey Ben - Great choice. I've wanted to build one of these monsters myself. Although I think I was leaning more towards a Kursk Ferdinand. I really like the dark green web camo...

Anyway, here are a few photos of Elefants I dug up. I'm sure you can find plenty more. (I have way more pics of Ferdinands than Elefants.) The key is to find a forum link where the members have done all the work for you. Good luck. I'll be watching this one come together.

Pretty sure these are all public domain - if not, these are for discussion only. 

and I love these last two... even though you can't get much in the way of color information off them.

Have fun! 

and here's a halfway decent walk-around of the Aberdeen Elefant for detail. I'm sure with a little searching you can find better pics of this one.

www.peachmountain.com/.../tanks_Elefant.aspx

Great photos Dave!

I reckon the barrel cleaning photo would make a nice little dio

Thanks buddy,

Ben

Hi fellas,

Saturday update! I started this afternoon and, as usual, took to the instructions with my trusty Highlighter pen and biro marking what parts to leave off until later and also marking an aim point where I wanted to get to with todays session. A leisurely 3 (and a bit) hours modelling has got the basic suspension assembly out of the way and the rear panel assembly completed.

As I'm going with Friuls I think they come with Sprockets (not sure how many or what type) so I'll wait until the Friuls arrive before I think about fitting sprockets.

I'm going to leave off the Jack Block to fit after basecoat painting as the kit PE comes with all the detailing to make the Block a lot better looking with carry handles etc.

I'm working from home tomorrow but hopefully it should be quiet enough to enable me to do the part I want to get done tomorrow which is the frontal armour and bow MG etc. I've only got New Years Day off so I intend to get a fair bit done then.

Photos:

Note: the instructions look like they want you to stick the suspension arms together but the when they are fitted it looks like one of the 2 wheels on each suspension unit will be sitting up so I haven't glued the suspension arms in the hope that the weight of the Friuls might make all the road wheels sit flat?

Note: There is some PE in use already! The part on the back (Intake/outake?) has an optional PE grill cover. Nasty gap there - that'll need sorting!

I'm glad this is underway now - I've been feeling lazy since Christmas and it's nice to have a fresh build on the bench!

I know it's not a lot to show but every build starts somewhere.

I'm going to enjoy this one!

Cheers guys,

Ben

Off to a good start with this one Ben, good call on the suspension elements. Do a test fit with the road wheels and you should be able to 'fix' them in the correct position that allows the vehicle to sit level when the time comes.

Ben, a nice start to what I'm sure will be a cool build--I've wanted one of these pre-zimmed Elefants myself, but settled for an un-zimmed one that "ll use Eduard PE on.

Anyway, I just wanted to remark about that barrel that you dissed. You seem to really not like two-piece barrels as much as I hate one-piece tracks, lol. In any case, a lot of times the replacement metal barrels are not correct in dimension--too long, in many cases. Be careful of that. Secondarily, you can easily make a plastic two-piece look perfectly acceptable by using a slower-setting glue, clamping it in a medium-strength clamp for a half hour, and then twisting the barrel in a few pieces of finer-grit sandpaper. I use the plastic ones all the time, and never have a problem with them. It's worth learning how to perfect them, as it saves you some money and time from having to acquire a new metal AM barrel for every ki hat doesn't come with the option.

Hi guys,

Thanks for dropping by Bill and Carl

Carl - I don't diss every two piece barrel by any means bud. If I do one of my Quickie Tamiya builds I'll use the split barrel BUT this Ferdinand barrel (it's on one of the old sprues labelled Ferdinand) is gross LOL! It's got waaay too many sprue contact points and is pretty ugly and thick. The kit has obviously been upgraded with an Aluminium barrel and slide moulded muzzle brake assembly so it's no extra expense this time.

The way I look at it is I am very restricted by my work commitments to the amount of builds I can put out - this year I reckon I'll be lucky if I complete the 5 really nice Dragon kits in my stash (unless I buy one or two Tamiya quickies). I don't build many kits per year so a few pounds (literally) on an AM barrel is a bonus for me. Any that aren't used go into the spares tub. 

Quick build update: I've worked from home this afternoon so in between phone calls have been tackling what turned out to be a VERY fiddly assembly of the front section. Several panels make it up and after half an hour dry-fitting I still had to settle for a bit of a gap between the lower panels but they are on the underside and will fill very easily.

The bow MG is on and moveable (I haven't assembled it fully as it won't be seen) as are the four little 90 degree Photo-Etch bits that the vague instructions look like they want you to put them on a particular area ina particular position so I did! I've since looked at some blogs and can see that some modellers have put them on how I have and others have left a piece sticking up but they aren't coming off again now and will be covered by spare links, Fender mounting arms and maybe stowage too! These instructions are very vaque, not poor - just vague. If I'm unsure of how a piece fits I'll usually look ahead a few steps to see how it looks but on these instructions they don't show detail of parts after the step where you fit them so I've been left guessing on a couple of bits. The fitment of the these front panels aren't great either - I'm hoping for a bit better later on!

Sorry there's not much to show you but I'm where I need to be to make good progress on my New Years Day bench session.

The next steps will see me assembling the gun, fitting the Fenders and starting on the Casemate build.

So far - not too bad The instructions are a let-down but what's remaining is a simple enough assembly

Thanks guys,

Ben

Hi guys,

I'm making good progress and wanted to get up to a certain point on the instruction sheet so when I came to my weekend build-athon I'd be be starting afresh on a new sub-assembly: in this case the Casemate and Gun mount/barrel assembly.

So Fenders are on along with the mountings etc. They stick up on the underside of the lower hull and fit just fine. Two small mounting arms are needed at the rear, two up near the front on the sloping part of the fender and two longer ones that sit right up front on the front of the fenders.

I know a few of you have this kit and are following this blog for pointers so I'll start with mentioning the four pieces of PE that you are asked to put up front. Don't fit them until you want the two Fender support arms on that go right up the front - also, I'd say don't fit them to the tank, bend them and fit them to the arms where the arms sit on the zim under the Bow MG. Bend them and fit one at the front of the arm and one at the back with the other bent half sitting underneath the arm. The idea is to give the impression that ech arm is sitting between to upright pieces

As I previously mentioned the instruction are not clear re these PE parts so leave them until you fit the fenders. Mine were trashed now so I just cut four PE pices and bodged them on so they looked like they were installed properly.

Apart from getting the Fenders on I fitted the round tube thingy? Barrel cleaning rod storage? There is simple optional PE mounting brackets so I used them - I'm trying to use more PE now as it's obvious that a good build benefits from good PE work!

Photos:

Below - note the part of the fender arms that sit on the Zimmed area; that's where you need to put the PE.

The rear of the left hand fender showing the mounting bracket:

The Tube on the RHS Fender:

Finally, note the Fender spring: Not very detailed so when it comes to detailing up near the end of construction and adding metal grab handles ets I'll wrap some very fine fuse wire around some rod to replace these kit 'springs':

So, progress being made! Instructions still suck big time but are ok. Just dry fit and dry fit again!

This weekend I'll get the Casemate and gun assembly sorted.

Happy New Year my friends

Ben

Some great progress Ben. I really need to get myself an Elefant kit

looking really good so far and don't you love that grey card in the Dragon kits every time I start one I go straight for that to see all the PE and other bits its like Christmas in every Dragon kit lol.. Keep it up I'll be watching

Cheers Rambo,

You've got to love the piece of card. In this kit you get a healthy choice of decals, some nice PE that I can actually work with, metal braid for the tow cables and a replacement turned Aluminium barrel!

Only tomorrow to go and I've got the weekend - all to myself!

Ben

Hi guys,

A quick Saturday update!

The lower hull is all sorted (apart from the running gear) so today it's Casemate time. I'm going to be VERY quick as I haven't had tea yet and there is a VERY good film on soon, too

The gun breech assembly is in place awaiting the barrel which needs to be fitted later on in the build. All the hatches are on and the crazy model-in-a-model Cupola is done too. Remember I'm still testing myself with PE so had to have a crack at the PE parts supplied for the Cupola i.e. 8 x square parts that go between the Periscopes and the round PE ring - it turned out ok. A couple are a bit wonky so I'm going to change them (a few spares are supplied). I could have taken the easy option and left off the Brass as there is a plastic part to use instead of the round piece and who would notice them eight tiny squares? I did it - I'm well proud!

Unfortunately my entire free weekend came clattering to a halt yesterday when I was told that I'd have to cover the 2pm-10pm shift tomorrow but if I aim to complete the rear section of the Cupola that should be within my time limit if it isn't too busy!

Oh, I haven't fitted the square barrel guard thing (name?) on the ball mount incase I need to move things around when fitting the barrel. Also, the single Periscope at the front is pretty poor in looks and has been moulded with no detail BUT I know I have a new one in the spares box with lens detail - this has nothing. I'll pop that on later as I will do with the wheels, tracks, tools and Jack etc - I want them to be fitted after the main paint has been applied. The same with the wheels and tracks so I can weather behind them properly before fitting.

Here's the Breech Assembly:

The Casemate and more crazy instructions - the Cupola was not as easy as it looks in the diagram:

What's up next for the build:

I hope you like her so far guys,

Cheers fellas,

Ben

Looking good Ben. It's going to hard to paint those periscopes. Good luck.

Hey TM - she's coming on well,

The round PE piece on the Cupola is only gently held in place with a couple of dabs of the fake finger nail CA glue as I'd anticipated issues with painting the lenses so it's all good buddy.

Thanks for the TM!

Ben

Hey Ben, she's coming along nicely...

I usually paint the periscope lenses and then mask them off before installation/painting. I even leave them masked until I'm all done with the weathering. Seems to work reasonably well. 

Hi guys,

Cheers for the Hasenpfeffer!

Making great progress - although I've been working from home this afternoon covering the emergency phone it's been dead so I've really rattled through the remaining parts of the build - I now have 3 nice sub assemblies ready to go!

Next weekend I've got some little jobs to do and I'll be able to fit it all together. I've got to sort the remaining hatches on the front deck, PE Jack Block Mount, Sledgehammer Mount and clasp, tow cable mounts, spare tracks, wheels and Friuls - plus there's the matter of the Friuls which I'll order tomorrow. I reckon I'll be basecoating this in another couple of weekends time depending on work.

One thing I'm REALLY pleased with is the Fender flap srings up front. They were supplied as moulded plastic with hardly any spring detail so I decided to use some thin Brass Rod and wrap 5 amp fuse wire around it - they look much better.

PROBLEM - I tried to test fit the replacement Aluminium barrel that came with the kit. I also assembled the kit barrel. In the ball mount there are two lugs that the plastic kit barrel locate into and slide into the grooves either side of the barrel - the Aluminium one will not push in far enough and looks like it is going to be too small in diameter. With the plastic barrel located it seems that the Aluminium one sticks out nearly 10mm too much! The lugs stop it pushing in far enough? Do I have to do anything to make this metal barrel fit - it's not looking great at the minute as if I was to manage to get it pushed in to the correct depth it's going to be waaay too small in diameter?

Can anyone help? How did you sort this out if you have built this kit?

Here are some photos - I'm loving this build!

Sub-Assemblies:

Dry Fitted to test:

My new springs:

Thanks for looking guys - I hope you like her so far!

If anyone can assist with the barrel I'd be very grateful!

Have a good week chaps,

Ben

Hello guys,

I was keen to wrap up today with the barrel in place and dry fitted. My previous post asked a question about fitting the metal barrel and what to do as it wouldn't go in the ball mount properly?

Well, I re-read the instructions and Dragon bought attention to removing 2 key pieces from the Breech assembly but used small print so I overlooked it - I should have known better by now!

Yippee!

All sorted,

Take care lads,

Ben

That's scary. I have the Ferdy Premium kit and it too comes with an aluminum barrel, part of the reason that I bought it. Now I'm scared

Hey Ben, I'm getting caught up in the Armor forum and read your Elephant thread!  Great build sir and its coming along fantastic!  Strangely I don't have one Elephant or Ferdinand kit in my stash and based on your build log I'm now itching to get me one!  With the Zim, of course!  Looking forward to some paint on it!!  

Thanks Eric and Ernest

Eric - all you need to do is remove two tiny little locator nubs in the ball mount. It's shown in the instructions and if I'd actually noticed it it wouldn't have been a problem!

Honestly it's simple - you'll find this build very easy Tiger, just take care with the front bolted armour as that can be tricky.

You should try this build Ernest or one of the variants but if you want Zim ready moulded on this has to be the one. It's a big old beast too - the build with Muzzle Brake on is nearly 9 inches long. No joking at the back

Thanks for the kind comments fellas,

Ben

hi this is looking great i am sure mine will pale in comparision keep up the great work

Cheers Treetopper,

Have faith in yourself matey - it's a simple assembly so I've probably made it look easy but I've still made a few errors on the way!

I'm still to decide on the colour/cammo scheme yet!

Ben

Cheers Guys,

We are moving forward guys! Onwards and upwards!

The plan (at present) is to basecoat the build with DY and add some light cammo squiqqles. I'm then going to apply the chipping solutions and a light coating of Tamiya Flat White. I want the basecoat and cammo to be visible and the build to look like it's wearing just the remnants of a whitewash coat. The bulk will be removed leaving small areas and built-up areas of white around running gear and hatches. I think this could work well if done properly.

The other option is a standard DY basecoat with either the green 'web' scheme or thin Rotbraun/Olivgrun freehand squiggly lines.

Either way, it's a long way off right now as it's going to get VERY cold in the UK from today onwards with forecast -7 overnight temperatures and East winds carriying rain/snow and generaly horrible, icy weather. As I have my airbrush setup in our Workshop I had to box it all up last night and bring it inside along with the stuff I keep outside with the airbrush like my Tamiya rattlecan and Vallejo airbrush primers, Vallejo varnishes and airbrush cleaners plus associated hardware. The Workshop may well be double glazed and brisk built and cavity insulated but it has no heating other than portable hating and an oil filled radiator. It heats up perfectly within 40 minutes but boy, it gets darn cold in there overnight! I dread to think of the potential damage this deep cold could do to my hardware and primers/varnishes.

The plan is to get the workshop heating turned on an hour before I go to spray in there and during that hour I can prepare my paints etc.

I'm about to do the final assembly work on the Elefant this afternoon and I'll be ready to turn my attention to the running gear and my Friuls. That way I'll be able to keep airbrush sessions to a minumum. I'll be using AK's Blemishing Fluid on the Friuls and the wheels will be sprayed DY on the sidewalls with brush painted Gunze Metalcolour (buffable) to be used on the steel tread - obviously no rubber on this monster!

The Jack & Block with PE mountings will be fixed on after painting of the DY basecoat and I'll try to make it look like whitewash residue was applied OVER the tools by leaving a little bit showing on the handles.

So, I'm off to get the bulk of the rest of the assembly done. I'll be keeping it in three sub-assemblies until I'm ready to paint just incase I need further access to the inner Casemate plus it will make test fitting the Friuls and roadwheels a lot easier with the lower hull on it's own!

So, what do you guys think to the 'Worn Whitewash' Polish Elefant idea?

Proper update later!

Cheers guys,

Ben 

Go for it Ben,You know I'm really enjoying the whitewash on my Tiger right now.

Anthony

Ben, the Polish WW Elefant sounds cool. If nothing else, it presents a challenge and an opportunity to do something beyond the regular camo idea.

You should also protect your paints from extreme cold. And don't forget, you can always warm them in a pot of hot water before you AB them---cold paint does not spray nicely. Warm paint disperses much better through the nozzle.

Hey Doog,

Luckily I have a great big Oak Wardrobe in the spare room which houses EVERYTHING apart from my airbrush, airbrush accessories, primers,ab cleaners and compressor.

The cupboard has my stash in it, my tools, my endless supply of various paints (Vallejo, Tamiya, Gunze, Humbrol and oils) plus my AK & Mig weathering products. They get well looked after - believe me

Now I've got my set-up in the Workshop all running smoothly (it's taken me a lot of time and ruined paint jobs to get my set-up to function how it does now) I want to keep it that way. I'm not taking chances with a forecast big freeze ruining my primers and compressor.

I hate this darn weather - it plays havoc with my knees!

A worn whitewash Polish Elefant it is!

I'll get some photos up soon but I'm onto the smaller things now so there's no BIG changes to report on yet. It's all coming together nicely though!

Ben

Looks great Ben and I'm liking the sound of your planned finish. Brilliant job with the scratched springs...big improvement...I'm going to have to remember that one.

Take heart with your weather mate...it's -21C as I type this, with a forecast low of -35C coming my way tonight. Perfect modelling weather...the kind where I can sit at the bench guilt free and look out at...lol

I'm following this with interest ,

Cheers,

Hi fellas,

Thanks for the kind comments, CaSSius

A very quick update to bring the blog up-to-speed!

It has been left in three sub assemblies - the Casemate, the Hull and the front deck with hatches. The Muzzle Brake has just been assembled (the barrel isn't permanently fixed) and looks very good. I'll keep applying a touch of Tamiya Extra Thin so it gradually 'blends' together.

I've taken notes of what is left to do pre-basecoat painting:

• Assemble the Friuls and wheels (I will be doing that next weekend and will then assemble the sub-assemblies)
• assemble the travel-lock (I want it stowed but the instructions don't show that option. I've seen a few of the builds where it has been done that way so it must be easy enough. I can't get that in position until the front deck is fitted as the hull and deck have locating holes all meant for the travel lock.
• Fit the one pistol-port and chain that I'm leaving exposed

Stuff to be fitted on top of the basecoat but before Whitewash application:

• Jack and Jack Block and Sledgehammer (all painted in their proper colours) 
• Tow cable and mounting brackets (a tow cable will be shown on the left hand side only)

The Whitewash will be heavily worn to show a Springtime Elefant that is just carrying a bit of leftover white - I want to remove the bulk of the whitewash from the tools and tow-cable to show a bit of colour variation.

None of this is set in stone definate yet but I'm really liking this whole whitewash idea. I'm not planning on going mad on the battle damage but would like to show a good, grimy finish with mud build-up.

I've not been able to get much done this weekend but I have the next two weekends clear plus the 23rd/24th Jan on holiday! Serious build time!

Here is how she looks - remember these sub assemblies are not fixed:

I hope you like her folks - she's coming on really well now! I'm loving this build!

I'm impressed at just how big this thing is - it dwarfs the Tiger! It's going to weigh a bit when the Friuls are on!

I'd really appreciate any comments, helpful photos and the like

Have a good week guys,

Ben

looking great so far Ben. I'm glad to hear that the metal gun was just a slight oversight and not a huge hiccup. Dragons instructions could use a overhaul yes there good but compared to the level of detail and care they put into there kits you would think they would reflect that in there instructions too  

Cheers buddy!

The barrel was a simple oversight and an easy thing to miss - unlike Tamiya they don't make a big thing about pointing out these little jobs. The barrel looks realy good and just needs a little bit more work to make it look like one solid piece.

It's snowing and very cold here so the plans for this weekend are to get the wheels off the sprues and assembled ready for painting - I'll be fixing them after the usual weathering on the lower hull walls behind the whhels has been done. Whitewash on top followed by more mud spatter.

I've got my Friuls now so the bulk of the weekend will be taken up sorting them out - they look good and should build up pretty quickly.

I'd like to get the mounts for the tow-cables fixed in place so I can finish this weekend by priming her ready for basecoating during the two days I have off work next week (sweeeeeet)!

Proper update tomorrow!

Take care,

Ben

Good evening folks,

As usual it's the Saturday evening update!

Righto, there were a few things that I wanted to sort out before hitting the running gear today - namely getting the PE tow cable clamps in place on both sides of the lower hull. The easy option would have been to use the plastic options BUT I went with the PE option as I want to use PE on more of my builds and I'll only get better by choosing the PE option! Each side requires two simple bent pieces of small Brass, one as a tow-cable support and the other for the eyelet to hang from. The other are two pieces that are basically a 'square' holder that on the real thing would trap the cable in place and would need to be unlatched to release the cable - I don't think I did too bad? There's only going to be a Tow cable on the left side so for now, I've had to leave the right side open to allow me to pop the cable in before I add the final pice to close the holder - I'll sort it out! I've got a PE Jack and Jack block holder to go on yet along with a single tool clamp and holders for the Sledgehammer at the back.

As I'm going to do a whitewash build I want a cold country Elefant so I have looked at the instructions and have chosen a nicely decaled 'green web cammo' over DY. I'll build it up and paint it as normal, treating it like a 'normal' build but then lightly whitewashing it. I want the highly worn whitewash to reveal something attractive underneath splashes of colour and and cammo scheme. I'm sure they would have whitewashed the odd Polish Elefant in winter!

The wheels all built up without hassle and cleaned up nicely. It was a good idea to leave the suspension arms unglued as they needed some shaving to ensure the wheels sat flat all round.

The Friuls arrived midweek and look really good when assembled - they build up pretty easy too. I was a bit dissapointed to find there were no Friulmodel drive sprockets with mine (that part of the writing on the box had been blacked out) so I thought I'd assemble a string of 10 to make a 'tester run' to wrap around the  front and rear sprockets to make sure the teeth were a good fit and they are perfect

Tomorrow, I'll get the Friuls sorted and move onto the paint stages next weekend I've also got two days off later in the week as holiday so I'll do a chunk then too. I'd like to be thinking about making a start on paint next weekend (basecoat & cammo, fit tools and tow cable and then the whitewash). I also need to add the torch cut effects to the Casemate assembly.

One question - I want to model this build as 'in action' so the travel lock will need to be modelled as stowed away which the instructions do not show. Can I model this lock as stowed or will I need to make some 'modifications' to allow it to lay flat? I can't fit the travel lock yet as half of the four fitting points need to go on the lower hull - the rest go on the front deck so I need to get this beast properly assembled before I can try fitting the travel lock in a stowed position. I've seen it done so it's obviously possible? 

Photos:

The PE tow-cable clamp holders:

Friuls - the test track fitted to a drive sprocket:

Thanks for looking guys - now I have my Friuls I can start getting this build really going! I'm in no rush - I want it to be perfect for the big show my club are at on the 18th March. I want this finished and on our table. The show is on Sunday 18th March so I have what's left of this month, next month and up to (and including) 17th March.

Finally my thanks to Andy for helping with my AK Chipping Questions and if anyone can help with my Travel lock question I'd be super grateful!

Thanks guys - please feel free to comment and make suggestions!

Take care and happy modelling

Ben

Heres a link to some pictures ,  maybe they'll give you a small guide 

http://www.wwiivehicles.com/germany/tank-hunters/elefant.asp        

Looking great Ben. Love that metal barrel.

Cheers Eric,

It comes with the kit - the other option is a very old two piece job that's ugly but useable but why use it when you have this sweeeet Aluminium jobbie and slide moulded muzzle brake assembly!

This should look killer with the Friuls in place!

I'd like to get the bulk of them done tomorrow. The wheels were a 30 minute job from sprue removal to fitting.

Now she has feet she really stands tall! A great kit!

Ben

Eh, you should be able to get this done for your show, Ben. Looks like you're pretty much done with most of the work anyway.

Ben, that is looking just fantastic!  I've never built one of these before so I can't comment on the assembly, other than you're doing great!  And the Friul tracks....well, you can't go wrong this full metal working tracks!!  How are you planning on painting them?  

Ben, that is looking great. Regards the travel lock. Are yiu trying to find out how the real thing was stowed or how to alter the kit one. If the latter, could you post a pic of it.

Nice clean progress Ben,looking real good so far

Hi guys,

Doog - She's nigh on complete old buddy, just Friul assembly which gets more boring every time! Still, these Friuls are VERY nice and well detailed and will be well worth the effort - I must start using more magic tracks mind you - they'll save me a fortune and I've got stacks of them building up where I've used Friuls instead of them. We are totally covered in snow at present so I'm getting everything done that I can at the minute that doesn't involve getting cold. I HATE the cold

Buffle - thanks for the kind words Sir! I'll be using AK's Friul Blemeishing Fluid to soak them in to add the original rusty/dark tones then I'll see how it's going. Washes and mud accumulation will be added to tie it in with the main build but I need to see how the main build turns out first! All I know is that the whitewash will be very worn exposing the light cammo beneath so it will be a Winter into Spring Elefant so will probably be pretty muddy from the Winter thaw but I'll see.

Bish - thanks buddy. The instructions show a chunky old travel lock in the raised 'lock' position only. I want it collapsed - looking at photos it seems to collapse and lay forward. My buddy Wouter who has also built this kit did a great blog when he did. He has told me the blog details how to to make it laid in a stowed position so I'll try to look that up later:

The Tavel Lock:

This isn't my build (I wish it was mind you). I've found a great blog on a Forum I'd never used before when doing my initial research on the Elefant. The name of the guy who built this is Andy (username 'Panzerjaeger' from Chicago). He's obviously a very talented guy and this is the older Dragon kit without the moulded on Zim - he applied his own. I really hope he doesn't mind me using his picture! Lovely build, Andy

• As you can see 'Chicago Andy' has modelled the Travel Lock stowed away (see below - this is how it needs to look. Even though my kit is newer the lock is all on the same sprue used in all the kits). Unfortunately it just 'appears' like this and he doesn't explain how it's done. Not being in the position to even attempt to assemble it yet as the whole thing needs to be fitted i.e. front deck, Casemate and lower hull all need to be fixed together as the locating point for the feet fall on both the deck and the lower hull too.

Overall a great kit - let down by the inclusion of the very old 'non-Zim' sprues but that is made up for by the inclusion of the metal barrel, slide moulded new parts and the stack of new PE.

Updates later!

I'm off work on Wednesday and Thursday this week so hope to make a dent on the build time! I definately chose the right week to use a couple of days off!

Ben

Hi fellas,

Sorry but I had to pop out to do some work stuff after my last post so I've got the last few bits done prior to painting and am now just making up the last of the first Friul run.

Like I said yesterday I'm trying to reach a half decent level of PE workmanship so again I opted out of the easy choice and used PE to make up the Jack Block mounting straps and Sledgehammer head holder. The Sledgehammer things were simple but the Jack Blog fittings were fiddly as hell but they'll look ok when painted. I've also assembled the Jack - that has PE brackets too so I'm going to assemble the main sections of the Jack brackets that attach to the tank and paint them in place then I'll paint up the Jack and fit the final locking part of the Jack Clamp after paint - like I'll do with the tow cable.

There are four pistol-ports; one on each side at the rear of the sidewalls and two on the back end either side of the large round entry hatch. 3 will remain closed up but one of the two at the rear is going to be left open and dangling by chain. The kit chain is stupidly overscale so I've used some of my  own pre-blackened chain which is a bit smaller but I still might go the whole-hog and use some 46 LPI chain which looks much better. At present the chain is just glued inside the inner wall of the Casemate to hold it in place.

Finally, I've been messing with the Friuls. All the 4 sprockets are in place - the two at the rear are glued in place but the two up front are left loose as they are a tight fit and I might need to do some altering yet. The DS Tracks fitted fine but Friuls are needed to really make this Elefant look the business!

I've also test fitted the two hooks at the rear where you can hang a few spare track links. In the photo I've shown a run of 12 as that's how I'm assembling them but there will only be 5-6 links when I do them for real. The kit supplies Elefant Magic Tracks for the rear and front spare tracks but I'm hoping that Friul will give me an extra dozen so I can use Friul Track links for these spares insted of the kit issue Magic Tracks.

I hope you like the following final build photos: hopefully the bext ones of the build will have a basecoat on them - at least!

PE Stuff - the Sledgehammer will have the moulded-on bracket removed when I manage to assemble a decent PE Tool Clamp! Should be easy enough!

Rear spare track hanger in use (I'll be using half as many links when I do it properly) and the Pistol-Port with chain can be seen here too:

All I have to do now is get the Friuls done during the week and I can fit the three main sub-assemblies together and sort the Travel Lock before getting the painting done

Cheers for lookng guys! Please comment away and drop any hints and tips too

This week - running gear get's sorted during my days off on holiday

Next weekend - Start of Priming and painting

Have a good week folks!

Ben

How do you plan on attacking those Friuls Ben? Paint or some type of Blacken-It? Your build looks awesome so far! I can attest to the weight of the Friuls having used a set on a King Tiger, they are heavy!

Hi Jester,

Thanks for the kind comment!

I actually use AK's Friul Blemishing Fluid. It is blue and comes in a 100ml bottle - it looks like blue water. You assemble your tracks and clean them very thoroughly with VINEGAR (never soapy warm water - they labelled their original bottles up with the wrong instructions saying the Friuls need to be cleaned with warm soapy water)! Doing this affects the reaction that takes place and has a very negative impact so always use Vinegar.

You then rinse your assembled or unnassembled tracks and drop them into a shallow container. Pour in the blue fluid, fill the empty fluid bottle with water and pour that into the bowl too so you just basically mix 100ml of tap water with the Blemishing Fluid and agitate the tracks for about ten minutes until they take on a very dark, rusty colour. It's VERY realistic.

It costs about £10-£12 per 100ml bottle in the UK.

You can add your own washes to the tracks or pigments/mud mixes etc.

They do add a great scale weight to your model which, personally, I love! A pair of 1/35 Tiger Tracks weigh a fair old bit, as do these Elefant tracks!

On a Tiger (for example) don't use the supplied wire as it's awful and too thin (imo). For my Elefant I'm using 0.6mm Jewellery wire and I'm drilling out each hole with a 0.65mm drill bit in my Pin Vise. Smaller Tracks like Panzer I or II's need smaller wire. I keep the supplied wire for detailing jobs like adding Notek or headlight wire etc.

Ben

Hi fellas,

A quick update on the Elefant for you:

I've done one side of Friuls which are fitted and look great and I've about 20 links to go on the other side. This thing will weigh a fair bit when complete! I love the extra weight that Friuls give

I've had a PITA time getting the length correct. Iirc I used 111 links on the completed side and they look about right.

Ideally it needs 110.5 links ! 110 make the links just a fraction too short as where I want the tracks to make contact on top of the 3 centre wheels it is just hovering by about 1mm over them. 111 are a fraction too long but ok as it's only a fraction. Obviously I have to go with 111!

I've made up a 5 spare tracklink run which hangs over the back hooks. They look cool so I'm going with them. I've also managed to change over the chain for that one exposed pistol port from that big chain to my smallest 46 links per Inch pre blackened Tank Workshop chain. It looks so much better now.

I really need to get this thing moving now as I only have until the 17th March (weekends only). I've been able to get the Friuls done as I've been on holiday yesterday and today.

This weekend I'll test fit the other Friuls then they can come off along with the wheels. I'll fix the build sub assemblies together, sort the travel lock and a couple of other parts that are left and then prime and paint basecoat and cammo on followed by tools and then a light whitewash which will be heavily worn. Once that's out of the way progress should be quick.

I'll post a proper update at the weekend - we all know what Friuls look like! LOL!

Cheers guys,

Ben

Hi guys - just a couple of photos:

Here's a photo of the completed side and the rear:

1) Left side view - I'd like them a tad tighter but as my last post says, remove a link and then they float too high off the wheels. The photos I've seen seem to vary but there's definate contact between the middle three wheels at the top and the underside of the top track run (it's difficult to remove one link anyway as every other link has a guide horn - had I decided to lose a link I was going to hide that area behind a sprocket:

2) Front view - looks good (the gap needs filling - that front area was a pig to assemble properly):

3) Rear view - a 5 link spare track run is in place and I've changed the pistol-port plug chain over to the smallest chain I have (46 links per Inch iirc):

I hope you like her guys - the other run will be in place tomorrow and then the sub-assemblies will be fixed together and she'll be primed ready for paint. The wheels will be put on sticks for spraying and the tracks put aside for Blemishing with AK's stuff later on.

Do you think the sag looks about right for an Elefant? Remember it won't go any tighter!

Cheers fellas,

Ben

Looking good Ben! The chain on the pistol port plug looks much more in scale now!

Hmmmm, Well, to be honest, Ben. I think you could get a better representation with the kit tracks; they're really quite good, and honestly, easy to form up--and you can perfect the sag with them. Even though some photos of the Elefant seem to show a "tight" track, that looks a bit sketchy to me. It's not so much the high-ride of the track over the drive sprocket, but the fact that you've also got air under the front wheel. If you took that out, I can only imagine that you'd have even more slack to take up somewhere?

I know it's not probably what you wanted to hear, having made that investment, but if it were me, I'd go back to the kit tracks.

The chain looks pretty scale...good job there.

Hi guys,

I know exactly what you mean fellas - it looks like I should easily be able to remove a link but it really tightens them right up as in TOO tight!

Forget the kit tracks - they are really lacking in detail as they are the DS type and you lose that nice little overlapping pattern that should be present on each link.

I reckon that when the other side is done tomorrow they will be square and will sit right. I've looked at other photos of this kit and one thing everyone seemed to have problems with was the wheels - that's why I left the suspension unglued at one end so I could either add shims of plasticard or file some plastic away so they all sit level. At present this thing is sitting on a big slant as it only has one run fitted and will be raised up about 4mm when the other side is on. I'll see how the other side goes.

It looks like there's enough slack but take out a link and 'boom' - too tight!  

When I'm done tomorrow I'm going to try removing a link again and seeing what I can do.

Glad you like the pistol port chain now - the kit chain was huge!

Ben

well, if you don't mind the tracks being non-workable (and cheating a little); you could press the track tight around the drive sprocket and glue it in place...

hmm it does seem like there is some air space there you can take up but yet again that might be due to the road wheels not being fixed yet (are they glued down yet??) but best thing to try would be like you are going to do and get the other side strung up and see where you sit then

Hi guys,

Righto: I've removed a link and the space where two of the flat links without horns meet have been rolled around and hidden behind the drive sprocket

All I've taken out is one link and look at the difference it's made. I did this last night and they look like they 'stretched' a bit over night and now look better? They may still stretch some more?

So, this is 110 links - the previous post showed 111 links! It's amazing the difference that the removal of ONE little link can make!

What do you reckon? I can't do much more so it's one or the other. Most pictures I've studied show the tracks leaving the back of the front sprocket and just missing the front Fender. They then just brush on wheels 3 & 4 and sometimes make contact with wheel 5 (counting back from the front wheel). I think I've achieved this here and it's a definate improvement - a bit taught up front under the drive sprocket now but something has to be sacrificed!

Let me know what you think - like I say I can't do much more. The DS kit tracks are ugly and lack detail and and will need a fair bit chopping off them to make them look anywhere near acceptaptable plus the guide horns are lacking the hole they should have.

Rambo - The wheels nor the sprockets are fixed permanently. They are all a very tight push fit and the sprockets roll freely if made to. Glue isn't needed and I might leave them unglued too. When the other Friul run is on I could push this around the living room carpet making 'tank' noises -  Brrrm! Brrrrm! BOOOM! BOOOM!

Here you go guys - my photo of the shortened track (one link shorter)! This is as good as it gets without the tracks becoming 'live'! Remember this is on a slant as the other side is without it's tracks

When the other side is on and the wheels are sitting square I think this will look pretty good

Thanks for your honest input guys - I do want to get this looking right so it all helps.

I've looked at photos of the real thing AND other models and the variety is amazing. This one below is on display at Aberdeen.

I'll post an update later depending on how much progress has been made. I'm working from home today and it's been pretty busy so far but I'm getting there!

Take care,

Ben

I'd say that that looks pretty good, Ben. That really made a huge difference!

Sorry too--I didn't realize that you had those crappy DS tracks--what a huge step backward for Dragon. I thought you had link tracks. My "old" Dragon Elefant (pre-zimmed) has indy links tracks.

I agree too, that you can find pics of Elefants with tracks in just about an length or slack. I've seen some pics where they're laying right down flat on the very first roadwheel after the sprocket--and that's while traveling with soldiers hanging off them. not burnt out with collapsed suspension.

I think the sag looks just right now Ben!

Little known secret about the Elefants...they had odd-numbered link counts on the real vehicle. They just connected up two links with a guidehorn together and didn't worry about it. Drives modeler's nuts though! Sag looks good Ben.

WOOOOO - HOOOOOOOO!

I must admit that I thought it odd that the doog was telling me to use DS tracks OVER Friuls! LOL! 

If it had come with Magic Tracks I wouldn't be using Friuls now but needs must. I'm so glad you think this about right now as I want this perfect (as you know)

Finally, I know some of you were looking forward to this but I've decided  against a WhiteWash. I've looked at the link showing Gary's Ferdinand and have  seen LOTS of other builds too and I really want to show it with a DY basecoat  and cammo with my usual AK style Weathering.

I'm only doing this as I love how the Elefant looks in it's 'normal' colours with cammo. I'm also a  bit wary of doing my first proper WW on a build I've put so much care and love into  

Not to worry as my next  build will be a Kharkhov Pz. IV with FULL whitewash - I'm going to go to town on  that one big time!

Update later - I want ALL the Friuls on by the end of  today and by the end of tomorrow she needs to be assembled  and primed with the  barrel removed for easy access when painting the front deck and all the road  wheel mounted on spikes for separate painting - the Steel surfaces will be brush  painted with Gunze Metalcolour 'Stainless' and buffed to a nice shine  

Take care,

Ben   

Sorry guys,

I've just though about what Bill said re the odd number of links. This must now have an odd number so it would have had 110 links before and now it should have 109

I'll have a proper count up when I go to fit the other side.

Ben

that looks great it's funny what one link can do.

Hi fellas,

Ok, I got to where I wanted to be with the minimum of mess-ups Both Friuls runs are sorted and looking good, the wheels are mounted on matchsticks ready for painting off the vehicle and the whole thing is primed so it will be left for the week to really harden up and I get some pre-shade & DY basecoat/cammo on her next weekend.

Mess ups - Where the front deck is there's a small piece up the front of the deck that butts-up against the front of the lower hull when dropped in place. How this was sitting was making the Casemate sit too far back so I filed the thin piece of plastic of the front of the deck so it would butt-up better allowing the casemate to fit properly. I did this and now the Casemate fits great BUT the front deck obviously needed that bit that I filed off as I was left with a big gap which needed some surgery and filling - it'll be fine I also totally forgot about getting the PE Jack mounts in place before priming so I'll have to sort them later. The travel lock was a fiddly PITA to assemble stowed but that got worked out so I'm just a bit gutted about the front deck but live and learn Apart from these errors she looks great primed up.

Friuls: Again I had the same issue - 110 links too saggy, 109 links a tad too tight so I decided to try strecthing them. I'd read a blog where someone had done this before so I simply took about 4" of Friul link (assembled) and gave them a sharp tug and then moved on around the track - doing this easily gave me an extra 3mm and they dropped on just right. I'll do it with the other side before they go back on too.

So, looking good. I've got plenty of time to get this ready for the show on the 18th. She primed up lovely - Tamiya's 'Fine Surface Primer' is great - it gives a nice surface to work on. I was going to use some coloured Vallejo primer through the airbrush but I want to try a pre-shade so I decided to go with the light coloured stuff this time.

Ready to go - fully Friuled!:

Primed:

I tried to add some torch-cut detail on these sections with a scalpel after softening the surfaces with Tamiya Thin Cement:

Here we go - ready to roll! This is everything for the build except the tools and Jack Block which are bagged up. The Friuls will be treated with the usual AK Blemishing stuff and the four loose ones will make up the spare links that sit up front:

Thanks for looking guys.

Have a good week and take care

Ben

Cant wait to see the camo on this beast!!

Cheers Jester

I meant to ask guys - I might well drop an antennae onto this beast. How long where they on these things. I have a selection of RB Brass 1.4m and 2m?

Ben

Nice fix on the tracks Ben!

The ones I have from Orange Hobby say 2 meter Ben. I have the star antenna from them as well and it says 1.4, hth!

Ben, it should be the 2m Antenna. The 1.4m was used with the Fu 7 Radio used for ground to air comm's.

Thanks guys,

2m it is. I'm not sure why I even have 1.4's as every Brass AM or kit Antennae I have ever used for German WWII AFV's has been a scale 2m one!

I've been looking through the stash just now by the way. I do think the next build will be my Dragon Kharkhov Pz. IV. I really want to do a whitewash and although I'm not doing it on this one now the Pz. IV is ideal.

I had almost forgotten but I've got Dragon's Prmium Edition Flakpanzer IA with ammo trailer. That should be fun  - and damn complicated if the instructions are anything to go by! It's obviously pretty tiny and with the trailer will sit on a really nice smaller base with some groundwork.

Take care,

Ben

Just my two cents----the whole "How long should the antenna be" argument is a little rivet-county for me... I honestly don't think you'd get "dinged" for that in a model contest unless you had like, a 6-inch antenna on it. 

Basically I have a couple of '2 metre' Antennae and '1.4 metre ones' - I'm just trying to get everything right and make sure I choose the right one - I wouldn't call it rivet counting!

If this was rivet counting nigh on EVERYONE on this forum would be a rivet counter

Ben

Hinksy

... If this was rivet counting nigh on EVERYONE on this forum would be a rivet counter

Ben

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ..........oops sorry, lost count;

Now, how will I ever get the wire cut the right length?-----

Seriously: great job so far

Hinksy

Basically I have a couple of '2 metre' Antennae and '1.4 metre ones' - I'm just trying to get everything right and make sure I choose the right one - I wouldn't call it rivet counting!

If this was rivet counting nigh on EVERYONE on this forum would be a rivet counter

Ben

I just never heard anyone worry about how long the antennae were? I guess I'm just privately tweaked because I fear that it's just one more thing to have to worry about... Honestly, I never eve think about it. If it looks right, it's "right" to me. Or has been, up til now..

You've lost your antenna innocence Karl! No going back now.

LOL!

No worries Karl Like I said I have a few Brass RB Antennaes in both lengths and merely wanted to use the right one - if I was just stretching sprue it would have been a case of 'hmmm, that look about right'!

Now then, what diameter cable was used on the tow cables on these things?

Cheers buddy - you know your assistance is always appreciated  

Ben

Looking good....even without the antenna

Hi guys,

Here's the usual Saturday update!

I've really been dragging my heels on this one so today I gave myself a kick up the backside and got all the niggly little things sorted out like the PE Jack Mount and the DIY Tow Cable from Lion Roar so now everything is good to go - it's all primed and I'll be adding preshade and a basecoat tomorrow

Some of you will have read the problems I was having with my RB Barrel and Brass Collar Conundrum! I really wanted to use it so after finding out that a part did need to be removed to allow it to fit I took the plunge, lopped off the end of the ball housing and fitted it. I'm pretty pleased with myself as I would never have had the bottle to do this a year ago!

Photos:

New Barrel Fitted, RB Shackles fitted and PE mounts for the Jack and Jack block sorted and fitted to build (I'm not too worried about the Jack area as it's going to be very muddy under there-otherwise I'd have fitted the Jack later and painted it off the build):

I accidentally used the non-zimmed part here for the exhaust outlet (the curved bit - not the toolbox glued onto it) so I used a heated screwdriver to add some simple zim effect as this was plain flat and looked totally wrong:

Lion Roar Tow Cable all assembled - this is sweeeet:

Following Priming:

All ready for tomorrow - the Elefant with the new barrel and all the fiddly stuff fitted, Sledgehammer and PE Sledgehammer head clamps which will be painted separately and fitted after the cammo has been done:

Paints for tomorrow - Black for the preshade and the ingredients for what I hope will be a really good DY colour:

The Bible - what a great find!

I've made the decision regarding the Whitewash. I was looking through my magazines last night and found this Tamiya magazine from September 2012. It has the second part of a full build of Tamiyas Elefant. I assume the first part covered the assembly but this second part (which covers 3 two page spreads) kicks off EXACTLY from where I am now. The guy uses all of my AK stuff and Vallejo paints and does a brilliant SBS so the Whitewash can wait for my Panzer IV which I'll be building next. His build looks great and I really want mine looking similar. It covers new methods I'm yet to try , particularly using oil paints for dry-brushing etc., so this will be a good learning experience!

I hope you like everyhting so far guys - I hope to posting pictures of a basecoated and pre-shaded Elefant tomorrow

Please chime in with any comments and suggestions! They all help me a lot!

Take care,

Ben

Barrel looks great Ben, glad you got it fixed. Looking forward to seeing this one in color!

Cheers Eric,

I'm hoping to have this pre-shaded and basecoated tomorrow plus the wheels. I'm limited on time tomorrow so will be tackling the cammo next weekend. I'm not rushing it!

Ben

Hurrah!

The basecoat is on. I got the workshop heaters up and running an hour before I went in there, dug my airbrush out, got the required paints from my general model storage cupboard upstairs and off I went.

Now then, I'm making the move from all Tamiya and Gunze Metalcolour paints to nearly all Vallejo paints (mainly model air for the airbrush and model colour for brush painting), Gunze Buffable Metal colour for detailing and the usual Oil paints.

I've been experimenting with a few colours to make a decent DY basecoat that looks like my Tamiya mix of Dark Yellow and Deck Tan (50/50 mix). I found that 2 parts Model Air Dark Yellow to one part Sand Yellow looks very good. I also found that adding a few drops of Sand which is lighter still helps when highlighing panel centres. Light Drown is also good mixed with Dark Yellow to give a much darker DY.

I did a black pre-shade and it's about visible in places but I took put on a tiny bit too much and covered most of it - I'm out of practice! That was when I added the Sand to highlight some of the panel centres.

Next weekend is all mine so I'll be adding the cammo next Saturday and hope to have the decals in place and some of the tools painted and glued on so I'll be able to start weathering pretty soon. I'll be using Model Air Olive Green and a shade I'm not sure of yet to make the tri-tonal scheme - this is what I'm hoping to produce as it's 'my' Elefant, right down to the number and markings:

http://postimage.org/image/qmmmov1ad/

Photos:

Thanks for looking guys - I hope you like her so far

I'm really happy with this DY shade but I'll keep playing around with it so no two builds ever have the same shade!

I'm really looking forward to getting this cammo scheme on!

Have a good week everyone and take care!

Ben

Looking good Ben. I can never remember the formula I use to lighten the DY. I might even try Bill's method of mixing with light grey.

Ben, that's an excellent shade of DY on there--should look great when you weather it!

Hey Ben, how did the Vallejo Model Air work out for you?  I've tried it a few times myself and keep going back to Tamiya acrylics simply because it cleans up so easily.  Other than that it goes on pretty well!

The basecoat looks great, just needs some camo and weathering!

I've been using it for a while now Bufflehead - it's darn good.

It cleans up just fine. I've had much better results using it through the AB than I did with Tamiya.

The rangle of colours is just perfect in the Model Colour and Panzer Aces range for Brush Painting.

Give them another go - I'm sold

Ben

Hi guys,

Well I've had the most frustrating afternoon that I can remember but it all turned out well!

I had been looking at magazine articles - articles covering the painting of all types of AFV's. There's the usual freehand cammo lines, masking, whitewashing and something that a modeller had done that caught my eye where he'd laid down his cammo lines and gone back over them later on with a slightly darker shade than his original basecoat methods so they appeared like a 'cammo pre-shade' that looked really good. Basically, all sorts of stuff

So, I went out to the pre-heated workshop with my AB and Elefant with the intention of laying down a simple thin line cammo scheme using Rotbraun and Olivgrun. I used Model Air thinned with water and used a mix of Hull Red and Mahogany for the Red Brown and Panzer Olive Green and cammo green for the Olive Green.

The lines started going down really well but then I'd overshoot it a bit and then it would happen again so I ended up with what I was after with several 'bad' patches that looked wrong and when you try to rectify these areas it just gets worse and worse and worse and

So, frustrated, I took some Model Air Light Brown and DY and completely covered this up. I added some heavier cammo lines but it still looked 'iffy' so I recalled the article where I had read about the pre-shaded cammo and misted the build with Model Air Sand Yellow.

The effect looked really good like, almost like a worn cammo and I'm definately going with it! I hope the photos show up the effects like it looks in the flesh as it does look excellent and it's definately something that looks a little different for the cabinet! If it doesn't turn out as well as I hope it will I'll using 'Plan B' - the Worn Whitewash! I did say I wanted to try different things!

You'll notice a mark under the Bow MG but that will de under spare track links so I'm not worrying about that.

Tomorrow I'll be looking at decals and starting weathering.

Question: Should I add any AK filters to the top coat before I add the varnish for the decals. Also, would I be able to varnish this with Satin rather than gloss? Could Satin varnish be used to seat decals onto and to seal the decals in. Will my washes work well on top of a Satin Coat rather than a Gloss Coat?

Thanks for looking guys,

I'd be interested in hearing your opinions on when to use filters and Satin Varnish compared to Gloss  varnish for decals and washes. I've posted the question earlier in the post in bold.

I've just seen the news and they covered the snow in New York I hope you are all ok and if you are in New York you are safe and well (and warm)!

Update tomorrow,

Ben

Ben,

Rule #1--always decal before you start weathering. It wouldn't make any sense to put clean numbers---which are and would have been am integral part of the tank--on it. They have to get weathered just the same,

If you use decal setting solution, you shouldn't need to gloss under the decals at all. Put the decals down in a small pool of setting solution, and then in about 10 seconds use a wide, soft brush wetted with water to gently press them onto the tank. This is how I do my decals, and I rarely---if ever--use gloss underneath.

My personal opinion is that gloss vs Semi-Gloss isn't going to make much of a difference. In fact, for a big, slab-sided vehicle like this, I would tend to thing that any wash is going to slide right down off the sides and collect on the bottom if you gloss the finish. I would just wash over flat, You can control the wash better like that. If you get too much, just wipe it off gentle with a wetted brush.

I also wonder if your camo pattern is going to disappear under the weathering? I think it's a little TOO faded for my taste, but if you love it, that's all that's important. You could still darken it in the insides of the patches though. I did something like that, but lightening it, in my Jgdpz IV build currently going on.

I don't see anything wrong with the camo if anything just tell people that the guy cut the paint with too much fuel in the field so it came out really faded looking

Cheers guys,

Thanks Karl - it's come out a lot better than the photos matey, I just took took some quick snaps last night - I reckon this should be okay. Like you say, my main concern was the cammo being washed out under weathering so I'll be taking it easy on the washes and keeping them VERY light and concentrate on darker pin washes. Dry bushes, bolt head highlights, dark dry brushing on the Fender tread pattern and a few streaks. 

I just want to keep them slab-slides looking good - the rest will be pretty mucky around the running gear.

I'll see how it goes today.

Ben

Thought I'd hang out here a few minutes... been workin' on somethin'.

 Looks good to me, it's come aways since I last looked in.

Hi guys and thanks for the 's DM.

I've been working from home this afternoon so have done a bit and am in a position to get started on the detail painting next weekend.

I've got seven days straight off work starting 21st Feb so I'm hoping to get this all wrapped up in that time. I want it perfect for our show table in March!

Onto the build: I realise I need to be VERY VERY careful with this build as I don't want to darken it up to much and ruin that nice colour effect I've got going on. This afternoon I've applied all of the decals and have made a very thin light brown wash - nigh on a filter - that has tied everything together nicely. I've applied two layers. That will be all she'll be getting in the way of 'all-over' washes. I'll be doing the detail painting next weekend i.e. the MG Barrel, the Jack and Block and adding the tow cable. All further washes will be done 'pin-wash' style using Mig Dark and Brown washes straight from the bottle. I'll concentrate on all the usual hatches and panel lines etc.

I'm following this big magazine article that I previously mentioned and will be adding some light chipping and AK's Streaking effects. Drybrushing will be done with black oil paint in small areas like on the fender treadplate to show wear and the Graphite stick will see some action too!

I'm hoping for a nice tidy build finished off with a matt coat and dry pigments but if it goes South I have 'Plan B' ready to go which is an all-over chipped whitewash. This current base will be isead for a WW so hopefully I'm covered either way.

The decals look great and haven't silvered at-all They are individual numbers so getting them straight and level was tricky. The rear has numbers that go over the edge of the round back door so I had to cut them so it gave the impression of a split where the the door would open - it turned out ok

Photos:

So that's where I'm at and I'm really loving it. I wish I had a better camera (I'm saving up) as although my pictures look good (imo) the camera doesn't seem to capture the full brightness of the colours.

Oh well, like with my Tiger I Ausf E my Godfather Dave will be doing the completed build photos

Now it's time to make things go 'pop' - apart from chipping, streks and pigments, the colours won't be getting any darker now the wash is on so things are looking good. I'm happy I took this route.

Have a good week guys,

Ben

Ben,

Just some advice---if you want to go with a "faded" camouflage look, there's another way you can do it--especially if you want to show like, a finish faded by dust or sun.

Keep in mind that a sun-faded finish wouldn't fade universally, nor evenly, all the way around. You'd have dramatic fading nearer the top of the vehicle--which would catch the sun more--and nearly none on the lower vertical surfaces, and especially none in places like under the front glacis. Fading should be graduated from top to bottom. I guess that's what I would say looks a bit unusual in your finish--the uniformity of it?

Also, if you want to "dust fade" a vehicle, spray on an enamel dust coat---and then immediately take a wetted brush and draw down streaks and whatnot with thinner on the brush. You can do this to various degrees, and even add layers, like, a light layer that you put in streaks at first, then a second one after the first one dries, That way, you'd have real depth and variety to the finish.

Just trying to give you considerations and suggestions for the finish before you really start getting past the point of where you can't modify what you've got there.

Cheers Karl,

I've got that covered buddy. I'm following this SBS article and I've got a long way to go yet. The author used a dust-fade so that's hopefully what I'll be doing too.

Ben

Hi guys,

Here's a few photos to show where I'm at. She has shoes on and is looking mean!

The tracks are on, I've added a lot of weathering to the lower hull. Mig Pigments and AK Mud and Earth effects used on hull walls behind wheels and on the wheel rims.

I've applied some oil and fuel stains to the engine deck - very effective.

Tracks have been treated with AK's Blemishing Solution and look great. Following treatment I used a simple flat file to expose some worn metal then added AK Track Wash to tone it all down.

I'll be wrapping this build up this week as I'm off road for  as I need to put the spare tracks on the front (I'm not sure about using the ones on the rear yet), paint and fit the rear sledge hammer and sort out the tow cable. I'm undecided about using the Periscope yet.

One thing I noticed - with the tracks fitted this thing is HEAVY!

She's looking really good and the clour really works well so I apologise for the mediocre photos - my camera isn't the best so you can't appreciate it fully. My camera does the job and as a better one would cost too much it will have to suffice for the time being!

My Godfather Dave will be doing the proper photos next weekend for the final update posting!

Engine deck - note the Mig oil/fuel stains on the deck, Effective:

Question I:I'm not exactly sure where the exhaust outlet is - it's not obvious? I'm thinking that it is the piece at the rear above where the Jack is stowed? It's a curved part that is shielded by a PE mesh pice? I want to show some black soot pigment near the outlet.

*I made up one of my lovely Lion Roar DIY tow cables for this build but somehow messed up and it's an inch too short! I was thinking about showing a cable where it had frayed and snapped due to poor maintenance or a direct hit from a shell maybe. I've always liked the look of a tow cable eyelet hanging from a shackle trailing frayed cable. I could also mount the other end on the side mounting hook and show some cable trailing along the fender?

Question II: Now then, would this 'scenario' re the tow cable described above have been possible or would the crew have ditched this damaged cable asap? I think this looks pretty cool but I won't do it if it's a big no-no!

Thanks for looking guys - I hope you like her so far!

If anyone can help re the questions that would be great

Have a good week at work guys and take care,

Ben

Looking good Ben. I do love them Elephants.

Looks really good Ben! The fuel spills on the deck look pretty realistic and the tracks turned out great! I remember how heavy my KT was after getting the Friuls installed on it. What did you use for the worn areas around the hard edges and such? Gives it a very heavy metal underneath look.

Cheers Jester,

I dry-brushed all the casemate corners and all other areas that would have been exposed to wear with Windsor and Newton Paynes Grey Oil paint. I then used AK's paint called 'chipping colour' (LOL!) to do the very small chips all round and on the Cupola ring and used a 5/0 brush to paint Games Workshop Boltgun Metal on some very select areas like the lifting hooks to show exposed fresh bare metal.

It's a mish mash of all methods really and it works well. AK's chipping Colour is a great neutral colour, almost a Black/Brown, and works great on DY/light Brown colour vehicles. I'm sold on it now!

I finished off with my Silver Karisma 949 Pencil being put onto other select edges and the outer wheel rims - that was a great move as it shows them up as being steel really well (the 949 Karisma is EXCELLENT).

Guys - I definately recommend you invest in some AK Chipping colour and Games Workshop Boltgun Metal for your next builds. 

Ben

Cool Ben, I have been eyeing the AK stuff for a while now. Looks like I am going to have to commit and pick some up!

Looking good Ben,I especially like your work on the tracks

Anthony

that camo came out looking great after the weathering the idea with the tow cable sounds cool but I can't comment rather if they would have ditched it or not but why not go with it if you like the idea

Cheers guys,

Kind words and comments all round - much appreciated!

Ben

Hi fellas,

Okay - the annual Hinckley Model Show that my club has a table at is looming (one day - Sunday 24th March). I can't build in the week due to various restraints and am working overtime tomorrow from home so decided to try and get this Elefant 'just about' finished today. I'm going to be asking for your opinions on a couple of things that I'm still undecided on so if I go with them I'll complete them tomorrow - job done!

I was so busy at work yesterday evening that I decided to make a list of all outstanding jobs left to do

• Paint Sledgehammer and PE mounting brackets and fix to tank
• Fit spare links - front and back
• Add additional oil stains and add small streaks around engine deck sidewalls like spillage
• Add some faded green onto rear Notek
• Apply final light matt coat (Vallejo airbrush varnish)
• Apply final pigment coat

ALL of this has been done today so I'm going to show you todays photos that I took with my own rubbish camera and I'll then tell you what I'm undecided on and hopefully I'll get some feedback from you guys to help me decide on what currently remains (in my mind) 'undecided!

As per my last Tiger I E my Godfather Dave will be taking 'the 'completed' photos with his mega bucks Nikkon set-up. We have arranged to do it next Saturday and I'll complete this blog then 

• Here we go - I hope you like:

Below - spare links on: All Blackened with AK's stuff and treated with Mig's 'Standard Rust Wash'.

Below - Rear spare links in place. Sledgehammer on-PE latch release handle glued onto moulded clamp. 

Below - this is the only thing left to do; make up a DIY Lion Roar tow cable but this time the correct length!

• The main question I had re your feedback related to the Periscope. The kit one was a HORROR but I've found a properly moulded clear plastic one with lens detail in the spares tub (it can be seen in the above photo) but I'm not sure if I want to use it - what do you reckon. I assume the Casemate Periscope could be removed when not in use - it wasn't permanently fixed in place, was it?
• Also, I'd like to add stowage - any suggestions? I want to add a cloth that has been draped over the rear spare links. Am I best to use tissue paper dipped in a PVA Glue and Water mixture? What is the ratio?

Thanks guys - all feedback and suggestions are very welcome!

Update either tomorrow or when I post the completed pictures next weekend and wrap this blog up! What a great build this has been!

Take care,

Ben

Very nice looking job Ben.

Here's the 1% you need.

 In the excitement of applying a super paint job it can be easy to forget a small but very important detail.

So, in regards to that, remember that the roadwheels are entirely metal so you need to give some semblance of shine to those contact points on the wheels, track horns and sprocket teeth.

Thanks DM,

I really appreciate your feedback and am VERY glad you my paintjob. It's just a bit different and will add some variety to my cabinet!

Re. The wear on the running gear is something I totally overlooked today - I'd forgotten to put it on my list!

I'll fix that up tomorrow or at least between now and final photos next weekend. I had highlighted the edges of the steel rims with a silver Karisma pencil. It hasn't shown up in these phots but the highlight has had the edge taken off it by my dry pigment so I'll make sure I re-do that Manny.

Thanks for reminding me about the sprocket teeth and guide horns  I'd totally overlooked those today!

Cheers buddy,

Ben

Very nice build Ben-great camo scheme & weathering-looks like a winner from here.

Cheers Bob

I really want you guys to be able to see her as I can hence the assistance of my Godfather for the final photos!

Has anyone got any info on how to make the best cloth/rag? I have various tissue papers and PVA glue,

Ben

Hinksy

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/3/p/1642235/editpost.aspx?ReturnUrl= I had highlighted the edges of the steel rims with a silver Karisma pencil. It hasn't shown up in these phots but the highlight has had the edge taken off it by my dry pigment so I'll make sure I re-do that Manny.

  But only on the "inside" edge of the roadwheels. The load bearing surfaces of the aforesaid should only reflect the effect of use in accordance with any recent activity.

I'm not Manny!

Oh dear

Why did I put that - autopilot! I need sleep! It's Steve! DOH!

Thanks for the tips, not Manny (or Steve) 

Ben

Sweet Ben. Love the fuel stains and the numbers on the rear hatch.

Cheers Eric,

It's all come together nicely - thanks for the 's!

Just a bit left to do - namely highlight them teeth and guide horns a bit and have a second attempt at a tow cable.

I probably won't post any photos now until I get the final set done next week by Godfather Dave.

Thanks dude!

Ben

Hi fellas,

Well, the highlighting of the sprocket teeth and guide horns has been done to great effect

I've painted and fitted the tow-cable and I'm not 'taken' by it?

I'm not sure what the problem is with it but in my eyes it doesn't add anything to the build? I mean It's a pretty sparse build anyway with no Periscope and pretty beat up with no stowage either unless you count spare tracks and a sledgehammer so it doesn't look odd not being there.

It's been painted up and if I change my mind later it's there to use. I know it should have one (in theory) but this is a very late war tank destroyer fighting the Red Army onslaught in defence of the Reich.

Perhaps it snapped, perhaps it was lost - all I know is that it isn't going onto my Elefant at the minute

The really good news is that Godfather Dave has had to cancel his appointment thing next weekend so it's photo time next weekend after-all then a final update with final photos!

I'm then planning to complete the little Willys Jeep that I have painted in sub assemblies before moving onto the sweeet Dragon Pz.IV G that is forever taunting me from the stash everytime I open my modelling cupboard!

It would be nice to have that lil' Jeep ready for the show table

Thanks again guys - I hope you all have a great week!

Ben

Hi guys,

Just a quick post to finalise the blog! She's complete! The Elefant is done!

I might add an RB 2m Antennae before the show in a couple of weeks but am undecided.

Please let me know what you think and thanks to everyone who has given support and help during the journey!

It's been a great build and what a great kit!

Here you go chaps - Photos taken by my Godfather, Dave!

Thanks for looking fellas!

So, I'm now going to do a bit more work on my Tamiya Willys Jeep and see if I can get that done - I'll be resurrecting the old blog that I started on here a while ago.

Then onto my Dragon Pz. IV Ausf. G c/w Whitewash (Kharkov).

Thanks again guys!

Ben

Great job Ben-very impressive build.  I especially like the weathering.  You should do well at the show.

Thanks Bob,

That means a lot coming from you buddy!

At this show the competition builds are displayed in a small room upstairs so I'm not sure about the competition yet.

I think I'd rather have this build on our display table this time as I know a lot of my UK friends will be looking out for it. Tbh I'm not sure yet?

Thanks again Bob,

Ben

Very nice Ben! I was worried too in the beginning that the camo was going to be too light but I think it turned out spot on. Great job!

Excellent work Ben! You really did the old monster justice.

Regards

Fred

Ben, thats come out a real beaut. Great work on this.

I gotta say, Ben---I was very dubious about that camo too--I would have done it over, darker,---but in the final product, that's a might fine model and the camo works just fine. You've come a long way on your weathering and finishing skills from what I can see and what I remember since I've been back online here.

Sincerest best luck at the show---I hope you're properly recognized.

Nice work, fingers crossed for your comp.

Phil

Wow thanks guys!

I really appreciate your generous, kind words!

I admit it was a fluke as I had NO intention for a finish like this but I stuck with it and it worked!

The guys at tonights meeting were VERY impressed so I'm buzzing right now!

Thanks again fellas,

Ben

Nice finish Ben,another good one for your ever growing cabinet

Very sweet Ben. The Elefant is my favorite TD and you did it justice. Well done bud and good luck.

Thanks guys,

Generous words - much appreciated

Ben