Italeri M110A2 -- FINISHED PICS!

Brain, lol----you're probably right about the museum owner putting it up there. He was quite the eccentric ol' man. Really quite a trip to talk to, honestly. Nice guy too!

Karl - Sorry I have not been here sooner to help out. You can beat me with a stick later. The M110A2 would have been in 3 color NATO camo or those that went to ODS, painted ODS Sand Color. If you paint 3 color NATO don't worry about the exact pattern....mostly green, then black and a touch of brown. NATO camo normally did not have a hard edge so a bit of over spray or fuzzy edge is fine.Keep all the road wheels green.

I will try to keep my eye out for you.... I am back on the OP, observing

Rounds Complete!!

Mike, thanks a TON!!--that's great advice! I was just about to paint the camo tomorrow after a busy weekend. I'm relieved to know that I didn't have to do a hard-edge pattern---it would've been murder over all that PE and delicate detail!

Just one question---what's "ODS"?! You're talkin' to a civilian here, Mike!

ODS- Operation Desert Storm, AKA Gulf War I. 1991.

Thanks, Carlos!!!

Anytime Karl

Thanks Stick for cover fire.....sorry Karl...force of habit

Good luck with with the airbrush

Rounds Complete!!

MIke, not a problem---I appreciate you looking in when you can!

Anyhoo, here's the painting update; pretty standard stuff here....painted with Tamiya acrylics.

I actually primed with Model Master acrylic Gray Primer. This stuff worked pretty good, actually. Of course, we need that for the PE..

Followed that up with a bottle called "Forest Green" that I mixed up to match Testor's Forest Green a while ago. I forget the mixture, sorry guys.This was for an undercoat/pre-shade type effect.

Tracks got a mix of Brown/Black...

I then used NATO Green for a main, but also highlight color. On top of the darker Forest Green, it adds some depth to the model.

And then I painted the camo like you'd expect--3-color NATO. I did mix a new "NATO Brown" though, by adding in some Buff and Black---it looked way too reddish for me out of the can.

See how that Fores Green under the hull looks darker? It's a good effect....

Painting was done freehand with my ol' Badger 150.

That's it for now. It shouldn't be too long for this one---I'm not going to weather it harshly. YIKES! I'm actually going for more of a clean (but only slightly "dusty") look!

Stay tuned!

No advice, but I am learning a lot following the forums. Looks great!

Question: you mentioned needing to use an acrylic primer because of the PE parts. Is this a MUST do? I'll be getting into the PE parts on my M1 in the near future (IF work calms down!).  I planned on using Model Master grey primer, but only because it sprayed so nicely on my Enterprise kit and would have been just blind luck that I'm using it again.

Looking great Karl.  The paint job looks really nice.

"Question: you mentioned needing to use an acrylic primer because of the PE parts. Is this a MUST do?"

No, I never prime anything and have no issues with paint adhesion or color variation, or anything else.  I don't see the need for it.  I use straight paint over plastic, resin, PE, filler putty, etc., etc., etc...

Very nice paint progress there Karl. Camo pattern looks good and that top-down shot really shows it off.

Thanks, Ktkrow, glad you're following along!

You know, the primer thing is a personal choice. Honestly, I think I used to do like HeavyArty did, just spraying on the paint and not priming--and I still do, from time to time if I don't have PE on the model. I read somewhere that it provide a more "neutral" base for the paint to go onto, so that you don't get different surfaces for the paint to lay on. But I don't know if it's really a necessity? I tend to to do it with PE just to assure that all that brass is covered. Primer is slightly different, chemically, than pure paint, and so lays down differently, It tends to adhere better to various media. So I guess that by laying down over primer, the paint is then ALL laying on the same surface? I also tend to do it more so now after doing a bunch of muscle car models--you need to prime car models because of the rigors of making a shiny finish, and the slick surfaces of the plastic used by model car companies.

That's the best explanation I can give for it. :)

Thanks a lot, Gino---I know I'm on the right track when you give me a thumbs-up! ('cuz I know you'd tell me if it weren't up to snuff!) I appreciate you weighing in.

The whole "primer" thing is still an enigma for me--I do it almost as a superstition over PE and resin parts, but honestly, a lot of times I don't use it over just straight plastic. As I told the previous poster, I definitely do it more after building some muscle cars and having issues with the paint adhesion on those slick car bodies. It's always good to hear from others' experiences.

Thanks, Bill! Very kind of you to say, Sir!

karl the camo looks really nice

i tend to prime everything. helps show seams that need to be repaired. i use ace hardware NOW for armor. it's a lot cheaper than model primer though not as fine. something to be careful off when buying paint jars of primer. some will be actual primer others will say primer gray which IS NOT a primer but a paint with the color of gray primer.

Just want to add my compliments to the pile. Excellent work, Karl.

Lee

 As with anything you do Karl, this will be a super rendition of a classic. I've been watching your progress and will continue to do so just as I always have but my future comments here will be somewhat limited for an undetermined amount of time. 

 In recent months I have been dealing with some very serious problems with my Mom who is nearly 89 (the greatest generation). My activities are now more focused on her hospitalization, comfort and end of life care.

 I don't want this to appear as a attempt to hijack your thread doog but you are very popular here (as you are with me) and I felt this was the best way to explain my inactivity with the very best chance of exposure to everyone.

Steve

Bis dann.

Wayne, thanks buddy!

I didn't know about that primer. Good info!

Lee, thanks for taking the time to leave a comment! I appreciate it!

disastermaster

 As with anything you do Karl, this will be a super rendition of a classic. I've been watching your progress and will continue to do so just as I always have but my future comments here will be somewhat limited for an undetermined amount of time. 

 In recent months I have been dealing with some very serious problems with my Mom who is nearly 89 (the greatest generation). My activities are now more focused on her hospitalization, comfort and end of life care.

 I don't want this to appear as a attempt to hijack your thread doog but you are very popular here (as you are with me) and I felt this was the best way to explain my inactivity with the very best chance of exposure to everyone.

Steve

Bis dann.

Hey man, don't worry about it at all--I'm just sorry to hear that something like that is happening at all with your mom, but we'll all get there, won't we? I hope that you're able to take care of what has to be done to your -- and her --complete satisfaction, and hope that her eventual passing is painless and quick. Though it's hard to wait for the inevitable, at least it's not a surprise, and you're able to make your peace and say goodbye in a meaningful way.

I'm sure I speak for everyone when I say that your presence here is indeed missed, but that we're all pulling for you and for your mom.

I'm no expert by any means but I think you nailed that camo Karl, looks great!!!

Ahhh...very nice...freehand is always the best for NATO camo. Lookiing great. You may want to wash with a light  grey style wash or I prefer AK NATO Rainmarks to give a chalky effect, then you can get to dirt!!

Rounds Complete!!

Karl the Grille 10 is this big

The devil made me do it,sorry

Thanks, Eric!! I appreciate that!

Mike, thanks alot for that suggestion---that's great advice. I don't have the AK stuff, but I have some MIG and Wilder stuff that is meant for that. A gray wash sounds intriguing too. I"ll have to consider if it'll work with where I'm going with this model. I was actually thinking of keeping it rather clean?

Pvt Mutt

Karl the Grille 10 is this big

The devil made me do it,sorry

Tony lee

Hi all,

 Forgive me, but I"m up in NY again, "working", and haven' been able to post an update or get on the forum much this week. I took these photos before I left though and am able to find a couple minutes at the day's end here to give an update.

I gave the model a preliminary pin wash of Black,

I put a light coat of stippled "Buff" oil paint on the bottom and behind the wheels. Note the yellow decals--I didn't really like the look of these, so I rubbed them off. I'm going to look in the spares box for something more current.

Wheels got a wash of Black-green oil and a tiny bit of rust in the rims.

The resin tracks, painted and weathered, I used AK Metallic powder to make the track where the wheels would run. The tracks were painted Tamiya Brown/Black mix, washed wit rust oil, and drybrushed with steel.

The tracks look MUCH better than those awful Italeri rubber bands!

So far....where I stopped before leaving for New York...

Still have a bit to do yet in terms of detail painting and weathering the spade. That'll be fun. I'm hoping to be back in Charlotte by next weekend so I should be back at this before too long.

Call out anything you see that needs attention, guys! I'd appreciate it!

tony now i definitely have to get a GRILLE.

and the 110 is looking good doog.

Love that camo!

Very good indeed!

Hopefully mine will come out as nice as yours......

I also have to use the same scheme and free hand....first cammo I will make.

Will you be weathering it?... a little?...too much?...damages?