SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

OOB Tamiya 1/25 scale Centurion mkIII

16297 views
50 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November 2013
OOB Tamiya 1/25 scale Centurion mkIII
Posted by Scuff on Friday, November 15, 2013 1:21 PM

This will be my first attempt at an AFV since coming back to the hobby. I'll be looking for suggestions etc. from those more experienced AFV builders on here, if they are willing ;)

Anyway, I picked this kit up from ebay for £30, which i though wasn't bad. The box is a bit battered and a few pieces had come off of the sprues in thier bags. The decals are yellow but its all there. I am going to attempt an Israerli version in Dark Yellow. I Know that their current vehicles are painted Yellow-Grey, but I don't think that the early Centurions were done in that colour. I'm happy to be corrected by those more knowledgable.:)

These first few shots are from the internal turret detail. The light grey is just Vajello grey primer sprayed liberally and dry brushed with tamiya metallic grey XF56. The chipping was applied by hand with a very fine brush, dabbing on MC214 Dark Iron from Mr.MetalColor. A Mix of Dark And Rust wash was applied.


The light grey primer sprayed over the Mid Grey-Blue Plastic showing the contrast.


The shell cases were sprayed with MC217 Mr.MetalColor Gold.


Images showing the bits before they are all hidden:(



The Ammo Boxes were Sprayed with Mr.MetalColor Stainless Steel.


Turret Base with seat, the cushion was coloured dark green and gently weathered with Tamiya weathering powder/paste 'Sand'.


Box edges chipped with Dark Iron.


The Main Gun Breach component


Turret Gearbox and commanders seat.

Here is an update on the turret internals. Most of the 'innards' have been welded to the turret ring. Feel free to comment if you wish.

The interior of the turret is now complete. The main issue was poorly fitting turret halves which necessitated a bit of filling with Vallejo white filler and some sanding.:rolleyes:

A couple of points of interest - The radio pack face was sprayed with buffable Dark Iron and when dry, I rubbed my finger over it to shine the protrusions. The white dials and small needles were painted and and then a drop of Krystal Clear added, which when dry gave me a nice glass face effect.:)

The completed the turret.

It was airbrushed with a base coat of Vallejo grey primer. A graded coat of dark brown was added to the shadow areas underneath with a gradual fade to the grey undercoat at the top highlight areas.

A preshade of matt black was then applied around all of the edges and join lines. Heavily thinned dark yellow was then sprayed in 4 applications to build up the effect that I wanted. Once dried I brush washed the whole thing with a 'grime' clay wash and removed it in such a way to allow it to sit in the recesses and leave some dirt streaking. Chipping was then applied by hand using a teeny weeny (technical term) brush and some dark iron paint.

The track pieces were airbrushed with buffable dark iron and when dry, the high spots were buffed. Rust pigment was brushed into the crevises (Ooo-err Missus):eek:

The cable on the cable drum is just weathered fuse wire wrapped around.

The whole lot was then dry brushed with Tamiya weathering light sand to highlight the edges.

Coats of matt varnish were applied in different amounts to different areas to give a variation in 'Mattness' (I'm sure that's not a real word) :D

I made some camo netting to scale and coloured it in desert shades. The retaining straps were made of lead wire which I rolled flat with a bottle of tamiya XF-1 and then shaped the straps around the netting and barrel. They were glued at the bottom with Gator Glue and painted in Dark Yellow. I think this adds a touch more realisms to the stark barrel.

Comments welcome.....:cool:


Thanks for looking, I'm alwys open to observations and comments.

Tags: 1/25 , Centurion , Tamiya
  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Dripping Springs, TX, USA
Posted by RBaer on Monday, November 18, 2013 1:01 PM

I think it's spot on!  You're also correct about the color, for the variant you're building. The sand grey wasn't used until the mid-80s, best I can determine.

Apprentice rivet counter.

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Scuff on Monday, November 18, 2013 1:14 PM

RBaer

I think it's spot on!  You're also correct about the color, for the variant you're building. The sand grey wasn't used until the mid-80s, best I can determine.

Thanks for the info Yes

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Jay Biga on Monday, November 18, 2013 3:00 PM

I always thought those old Tamiya 1/25 models were dogs, but this one is looking real nice. Makes me want to build one as well.

Looking good!

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: California
Posted by SprueOne on Monday, November 18, 2013 3:20 PM

I can't usefully contribute any information about accuracy but your painting and building skills are tight. 

Tamiya is rereleasing these 1/25 scale kits, I think. I want one of these for sure. 

Tags: 1/25

Anyone with a good car don't need to be justified - Hazel Motes

 

Iron Rails 2015 by Wayne Cassell Weekend Madness sprueone

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Monday, November 18, 2013 4:10 PM

WOw, you can't argue with gorgeous!

That's beautiful, honestly. I hope you touched up the one seat before you closed it up---it looked a bit thin in the coverage in the photo. Other than that, it's pretty sweet!

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Scuff on Monday, November 18, 2013 4:21 PM

Thanks for your kind comments.

The seat has been 'weathered' with a slightly lighter shade where the 'bum cheeks' touch.

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Scuff on Monday, November 18, 2013 4:25 PM

I have to admit that it's certainly not up to the modern standard set by tamiya. My main complaint is the misaligned halves of the pieces on the sprues. But in all honesty, I'm not complaining for the price, and I'm having a lot of fun building it and trying out some different painting techniques.  

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Posted by IBuild148 on Monday, November 18, 2013 9:55 PM

That really looks stellar!!!Yes

IBuildOne48

Teach modeling to youth!

Scalefinishes.com

http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww122/randysmodels/NMF%20Group%20build%20II/Group%20Badge/NMFIIGBbadgesmall.jpg

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, November 19, 2013 12:00 AM

That is beautiful work so far. I am really loving all that interior detail. One critique that I will put out there is about the inner faces of the turret hatches. They should either match the color of the exterior, or perhaps be in the original Bronze Green from when it was first built. IIRC, Israel obtained their Centurions secondhand and not directly from Britain. I would have suggested Tamya Buff rather than Dark Yellow as a color more closely matching IDF Sand from that era.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Scuff on Tuesday, November 19, 2013 12:25 AM

Thanks for the info. You are right, the instruction callout for the hatch interior states light grey.

I have never seen a cent in real life, so I'm sure that there is plenty for me to learn.

Thanks again.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, November 19, 2013 1:14 AM

Most tanks are painted in the same manner. The inner faces of hatches are painted the same color as the outer faces so as not to compromise the camouflage finish. There are exceptions to this, especially on vehicles repainted for desert use after being originally painted in colors for wooded areas. But it is a good general rule to follow.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Illinois: Hive of Scum and Villany
Posted by Sprue-ce Goose on Tuesday, November 19, 2013 10:03 AM

Looks really nice ! Toast

I just purchased an older, boxed version of that kit at a local swap meet and have been wondering how an Israeli version would look.

Great photos, thanks for posting that build ! Big Smile

Out of curiosity, what material did you use for the camo barrel wrap? 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Tuesday, November 19, 2013 10:45 AM

great build

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: Ottawa,Ontario,Canada
Posted by modeler#1 on Wednesday, November 20, 2013 8:49 PM

wow it looks great! been considering getting that kit,

On the Bench: Nothing atm

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Scuff on Thursday, November 21, 2013 11:06 AM

Sprue-ce Goose

Looks really nice ! Toast

I just purchased an older, boxed version of that kit at a local swap meet and have been wondering how an Israeli version would look.

Great photos, thanks for posting that build ! Big Smile

Out of curiosity, what material did you use for the camo barrel wrap? 

Sorry, I missed your question.

I made the camo netting around the barrel with tissue paper. It was coated with a dilute PVA solution and then a pattern was cut with a home made arc cutting tool. It was airbrushed with sand colours and wrapped around the barrel and shaped by re-wetting the tissue. The retaining bands were made out of roll flattened lead wire.

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Illinois: Hive of Scum and Villany
Posted by Sprue-ce Goose on Thursday, November 21, 2013 12:05 PM

Scuff

I made the camo netting around the barrel with tissue paper. It was coated with a dilute PVA solution and then a pattern was cut with a home made arc cutting tool. It was airbrushed with sand colours and wrapped around the barrel and shaped by re-wetting the tissue. The retaining bands were made out of roll flattened lead wire.

Thanks !
  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Jay Biga on Thursday, November 21, 2013 12:33 PM

The more I look at this thread, the more I feel like building one as well. That camo net is VERY well done.

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Illinois: Hive of Scum and Villany
Posted by Sprue-ce Goose on Thursday, November 21, 2013 12:49 PM

I bought what may have been the last box of 1/25 Fruilmodel metal tracks in the USA but the Tamiya kit tracks don't look much different and I would not hesitate to use them if i did not have the metal track links.

.

I am curious how well paint adheres to the Tamiya links as I understand their other 1/25 kit tracks are molded from a type of resin.Hmm

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Scuff on Thursday, November 21, 2013 1:55 PM

Sprue-ce Goose

I bought what may have been the last box of 1/25 Fruilmodel metal tracks in the USA but the Tamiya kit tracks don't look much different and I would not hesitate to use them if i did not have the metal track links.

.

I am curious how well paint adheres to the Tamiya links as I understand their other 1/25 kit tracks are molded from a type of resin.Hmm

The tracks have an 'oily' feel and are bendable and flexible. The individual links pin together using the moulded in pins.

I used metalizer dark iron paint directly onto the track, which buffed up well and has stayed put. I can't guarantee that it would work if it was a working radio control model, but for a static display I foresee no problems.

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Illinois: Hive of Scum and Villany
Posted by Sprue-ce Goose on Friday, November 22, 2013 10:03 AM

Scuff

I used metalizer dark iron paint directly onto the track, which buffed up well and has stayed put. I can't guarantee that it would work if it was a working radio control model, but for a static display I foresee no problems.

Thanks for the info.
I washed the Tamiya links to remove any mold release that may have remained and repackaged them for use.
What type paint did you use?
At one time metaliizer may have been lacquer or enamel, but I only recently returned to the hobby and am still adjusting to the newer types of paint being offered. 
  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Scuff on Friday, November 22, 2013 1:01 PM

Sprue-ce Goose

Scuff

I used metalizer dark iron paint directly onto the track, which buffed up well and has stayed put. I can't guarantee that it would work if it was a working radio control model, but for a static display I foresee no problems.

Thanks for the info.
I washed the Tamiya links to remove any mold release that may have remained and repackaged them for use.
What type paint did you use?
At one time metaliizer may have been lacquer or enamel, but I only recently returned to the hobby and am still adjusting to the newer types of paint being offered. 

I'm a fan of MrMetalColor dark iron MC214. Sprayed without thinning gives very good coverage with high flow at lower pressures. It has taken a fair amount of abuse without lifting. 

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Illinois: Hive of Scum and Villany
Posted by Sprue-ce Goose on Friday, November 22, 2013 1:08 PM

Scuff

I'm a fan of MrMetalColor dark iron MC214. Sprayed without thinning gives very good coverage with high flow at lower pressures. It has taken a fair amount of abuse without lifting. 

Thanks again. Big Smile
  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Scuff on Saturday, November 23, 2013 2:22 PM

I have managed to get the hull painted and weathered this week. The wheels are mostly finished, I'm just working through them progressively so that I dont get too fed up with them :D

Most of the fully working suspension is screwed on to the hull, and held in place with the covers. The usual Vallejo grey primer was laid down, and pre-shading was airbrushed with a combination of flat black and dark brown. This was followed by layered Tamiya dark yellow. A coat of Gloss sealed it all in.

A grime wash dirtied it up followed by subtle highlighting on some of the edges with tamiya weathering master light sand. The lot was then airbrushed with a matt varnish.

I finished off with some chipping applied by hand using MrMetalColor Dark Iron.

The last image shows the hull next to that of a Tamiya 1/35th scale Panther, just to give you an idea of the size of this 1/25th Centurion.

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Monday, November 25, 2013 7:38 PM

Geez, that sucker's HUGE!

I hope you have place in the display cabinet for something that size!

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Monday, November 25, 2013 7:55 PM

I built the Tamiya 1/25 Tiger I a long while back. It was, as stated above, a dog. It had all kinds of slots and holes for motorization that had to be covered up and filled. This Centurion seems to be light years ahead of my build. 

Excellent work here.

Lee 

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by FocusOne on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 3:17 AM

It really is a nice kit!  and a good job at that too!

I really got to get to finishing mine, maybe take it apart and give it a black wash (still on the solid colour painting stage -__-).

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by FocusOne on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 3:18 AM

it's a shame it didn;t include a full crew set (gunner and loader), or else you could pull off a cross-section in-combat model

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Scuff on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 3:28 AM

FocusOne

it's a shame it didn;t include a full crew set (gunner and loader), or else you could pull off a cross-section in-combat model

It does include both the crew figures and some stand alone infantry. I did consider a cross sectional version, but decided that I wanted to build a complete one first.

  • Member since
    November 2013
Posted by Scuff on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 6:09 AM

Hi Guys

Another quick update before I dash off to work.

The wheels were assembled and the rubber 'tyres' were flattened as they all had an annoying dip in the middle all of the way around. I was quite aggressive with a very rough sanding stick, which also gave a nice worn feel to the rubber faces. A few nicks were cut into the odd rubber tyre. They were all airbrushed with primer and then dark yellow before a grime wash was applied. This encouraged the bolts to stand out. A light sand dry brushing sorted out some subtle highlights.

The tyres were hand painted with Tamiya Rubber Black and when dry, given a good dose of sandy pigment to show some perceived use. A final application of some paint wear and chipping was painted on by hand with a fine brush and Dark Iron paint. SOme of the dark Iron was buffed to give some variation.

The track pieces were assembled a few evening ago whilst watching Stargate Atlantis on t' telly. They were airbrushed with Dark Iron and the high and touching faces buffed to leave shiny faces where they rubbed the wheels, sprockets and ground. Rust pigment was brushed with a stiff brush into the joints and then over brushed with a mixture of sand and green earth pigments. The whole lot was airbrushed with Alcohol to help keep the dust in place.

The track skirts were painted and weathered with the same techniques used on the turret. I shaded from light to dark to give some weight. The streaking was done with Tamiya weathering master. The original decals were very worn and faded, so I redesigned the characters on CAD software and cut out some masks with a laser cutter. I lifted the mask slightly from the surface when airbrushing the white characters, as I wanted a 'roughly sprayed at the front with a stencil' look.

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.