Vision Block Techniques?

the ends of 35mm film after developing work pretty good for modern vehicles.
I keep the blister packs or packaging from tools, products etc. The plastic is pretty thick and is flat. I cut it to size and use it for things like vision blocks, periscope lenses etc. Its cheap (free) and easy to cut. I use white glue to glue it into place.

Mike

I use blister pack plastic for modeling as well. VERY easy to work with compared to sheet styrene and such. Any way i use cheap acrylic Saphire metalic paint from the arts and crafts paints found in the crafts dept of stores. It has metal flake in it. I used it on my Tamiya Bradley. I also use Model Master Emerald Green [metalic] for "glass" parts that need to be green. I use the emerald alot on Gundam models which have both green eyes and green range finders. I'm going to try adding a bit of Future Floor Polish to the Saohire next to see haw it does [even though it's just fine the way it is!lol].

Thanks you guys, I think I might try these out. I could paint and mask before the parts are even on the vehicle. It seems a lot easier this way.
Cheers,
Spencer

PLEASE!!!
Could you guys please explain your film negative techniques to me? It's driving me crazy!! I need to know how you go about measuring etc. and I cannot get them plumb to save my life. I've been trying to do these things for at least three days now!!!


I went to Hobby Lobby and I couldn't find the right color sequins, so I'm trying the negatives.(I was looking for something close to Royal Blue, that's the color Tamiya calls for, sound about right?) Anyway the royal blue paint looks pretty good under the film negatives and I'm assuming that's what you guys do, but I hate to assume, you know what that does.So I desperately need a step-by-step on this. Can somebody please help me out? It would be greatly appreciated.
Sincerely,
Spencer

when you get the negs back from film developing, there is the tapered end that was sticking out of the film canister when you loaded it into your camera. In addition to this, there are always a couple of unexposed frames from when you clicked off a couple of frames winding the film. These can be cut and trimmed to make the glass for the ports and periscopes. Cut it to fit the space and glue. It reflects a shiny sirface and is colored so it looks like tinted glass. Slide film makes the best in my opinion but just about anything will work. If you know a printer, ask him for some sheets of film that he was throwing away anyway. This also can be used. An 11x14 sheet of graphic film or negative film that he uses will last you a life time of models.

I trim to fit and leave some overhang to glue to the insde of the hull to attach the vison port. A periscope can be scribed and scraped and the film glued to the face to simulate the glass. If you are going to cut it flush with the frame of the vision port, once in place, if you take your glue on a piece of fine wire, and touch it to the edge of the film where it contacts the frame, capillary action will run a bead of glue along the edge.

Mike

I found some old packets of pictures and I'm using the negs from those. The vision ports on the Bradley are raised (the glass area) and I'm having trouble cutting to size. Do you make a template or do you cut one at a time to fit the glass area? I was having trouble cutting tape for this much less film negs. I don't want to damage the plastic by trimming on the surface area with my hobby knife. I was trimming one at a time yesterday and a couple came out allright so I guess I'll continue on this way unless you know an easier method of trimming. There are so many on the M2. Thanks for the help. --Spencer

I cut one at a time to fit the glass area. You could try a template, but you may not always get the same exact line so you'll have to trim to fit any way.

Mike

Thanks Mike. I was doing okay... with one at a time but I was hoping there was an easier method but I suppose not. Oh well, I'm too impatient sometimes. Unfortunately, I haven't had any time lately for modeling as I started a new job Monday and worked Sunday as well .(I haven't even been able to browse the forum) although I should have some free time tonight , we'll see. I've also procrastinated a bit on this step which doesn't help. -Spencer

So would this technique work just as good for the FLIR panels on the Apache and Super Cobra attack helo's? I've been holding off on completeing that part since I have not found a good alternative to make them look realistic.

What color owould you paint the vision blocks on a Sherman Tank, I have been looking for pictures but they have all been in black and white