Tamiya 1/35th Chally I Completed page 2

Very interesting discourse on weathering and all. Its given me some good insights on how well it can work. 

 ^{Modelers are a strange breed, they put a wash on a tank so it looks dusty?}

Merry Christmes to all

Thanks for the comments guys.

Bish what a fantastic job, I'm all in on the weathering and detail. These old Tamiya kits are like comfort food to me. Really nice Bish.

Terry

Its always nice to hear why people are doing things just as much as what they are doing. having some idea of the reasons can help in forming our own decisions. I plan to go filterless on one build and see how it goes. If i feel i can't get the realisim i am currently getting, then i would certainly go back to it. And even if i like the result, it does not mean i would not use it again and i don't wnat all my bulds to look the same.

No, i can't say i have. But then we don't get to London very much. I do loike a nice shepards pie, i don't like blowing my own trumpet, but i make a pretty nice one myself.

Bish

My next step, as I mentioned in the other thread, is to drop the filters completely.

Bish: I respect your conviction bro'.

For myself: I use filters to cut the contrast of post shading and "stain" the base color.  I think the paint pigment characteristics and the varying thicknesses of paint from air-brushing grab the very diluted wash differently and it gives me the nice tonal variation that I like. BUT, let's not go down that path...I'm not trying to convince you or anything.

Bish

As I am sure you can appreciate, using enamels as I do, at least one protective coat is vital, I don't thnik any amount of drying time will change that.

ABSOLUTELY!!!  I probably should have noted that.  

BTW:  Have you ever eaten at Birds of Smithfield?  Diners, Drive-ins & Dives on The Food Network did a show called "Bite of Britain" The Shepards Pie looked delicious!!!

SMJmodeler

 

Bish

I actually started out a few years back with the weathering guide you posted and have been modifying that over time to suit what I use...

 

 

Bish: WOW, I'm flattered that you use that.  Someone else mentioned it recently too so I found it on my computer, printed it and then realized I need to edit it a bit to make it more "timely".  Overall it's still applicable but I find that the extra protective layers (specifically the Tamiya Flat Base/ Future Mix) can be deleted IF adequate drying times are allowed.  

Maybe I should edit it and start a new thread...hmmmm.

Uh-oh  I just noticed step 4 says Filter Washes...I better change that to VERY DILUTED WASHES

 

That has been very useful and really got me started into thinking about how i weather. I have changed a bit since then and my current approach is a bit of a mix between yours and Bill Plunks. My next step, as i mentioned in the otehr thread, is to drop the filters completely.

As i am sure you can appreciate, useing enamels as i do, at least one protective coat is vital, i don't thnik any amount of drying time will change that.

Bish

I actually started out a few years back with the weathering guide you posted and have been modifying that over time to suit what I use...

Bish: WOW, I'm flattered that you use that.  Someone else mentioned it recently too so I found it on my computer, printed it and then realized I need to edit it a bit to make it more "timely".  Overall it's still applicable but I find that the extra protective layers (specifically the Tamiya Flat Base/ Future Mix) can be deleted IF adequate drying times are allowed.  

Maybe I should edit it and start a new thread...hmmmm.

Uh-oh  I just noticed step 4 says Filter Washes...I better change that to VERY DILUTED WASHES

The first coat is not so much to protect the dry brushing as it is to protect the enamel paint from the oil wash and any enamel washes. I am going to try and find somthing to replace the future for that. The second is to protect the dot filtering from the enamel effects i often use. I am going to cut that out completly next time.

I actually started out a few years back with the weathering guide you psoited and have been modifying that over time to suit what i use, but i am still working on it. I have the results i want, i just want to simplify it a bit.

Bish: I'm not sure why you're doing all those extra coats, can you help me understand your steps?  2 future coats, ouch !?!?! The protective coat after the drybrushing would be unnecessary if you use oils and let them dry reall well...and the final flat:  A spray of thinned acrylic "dust/ dirt" could serve as the final flat...or how about a "drybrush of pigments as the final flat...???

I've successfully used these techniques to knock-down the shine when I weathered model railroad rolling stock & locomotives.  

Really nice, Bish. It looks the part.

You could probably get away with at least half of the sealing coats you put on though. Future is rather a heavy medium too---try Model Master acrylic flat or semigloss. Does the job, but is light as it should be for the hobby.

That looks right on, Bish, really well done.

regards,

Jack

Now that is nice.

Good job sir.

Thanks Steve, much appreciated.

I did check a number of pics for the exhaust and i know from my Warriors days how soty those areas got. It would of course have been less visible on green/black vehicles.

Bish: I just went back and read your thread..nice summary of your efforts, thanks for doing that.  I especially liked how it looked after that spray of Tamiya flat.  The details were popping after the pin wash and then the flat pulled it together perfectly! 

Great build!

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention how cool the exhaust soot looks!  Bold, but not overdone

WOW! Seriously impressive!! Superb, Bish!!

Fine job on the worn Chally. Thanks for your WIP.

Awesome presentation, Bish! Looks nice in that simple setting!

You did a great job on that tank. Thanks for posting your wip.