I'll be watching this one...

Thanks Stik.  I hope to have another update in a day or so.  It has been fun so far, and a little challenging getting all the parts from different kits to fit together.

Good eye Josiah.  The windshield rests on the hood have not been sanded down and shaped yet.  They were just glued on when I took the pictures.  Their final versions will be lower.  Thanks for checking in on it.

Hello Gino!

Nice kitbash here! I'll be watching with interest here - the M38 is one of the few american vehicles that I could actually lay my hands on - I helped a friend here in Poland rebuild one. It was ex-Greek army. He got himself a 1952 machine and rebuilt it nicely. I helped to design a paint scheme for it - it got the markings of the Berlin Command. What will be the paint scheme on your machine? Good luck with your build and have a nice day

Paweł

Yes, watching this one!

Pawel - Thanks for looking in on it.  I'm not sure what the markings will be yet, still deciding.  That is cool that you got to help your friend restore a 1:1 model.  That is my retirement plan/dream - restoring an M606/CJ-3B. 

GMorrison - Thanks for watching, it should come out nicely.

Excellent job, Gino, on this build.  I did notice one thing though.  Is the rear differential centered or is it offset to the right?  It looks like it is centered from the photo of the frame.  Jeeps from MB's to up to 71 CJ-5's had offset differentials.  

Here's the frame of the AFV Club M38A1 thrown up.

richs26

Excellent job, Gino, on this build.  I did notice one thing though.  Is the rear differential centered or is it offset to the right?  It looks like it is centered from the photo of the frame.  Jeeps from MB's to up to 71 CJ-5's had offset differentials.  

 

The AFV M38A1, nice kit but dear me and my mother, lots of really winky little parts.

A more detailed kit than that Tamiya MB, for sure. However, and I say this with respect; that Tamiya MB is a depression and/or slump buster. Short of shake-the -box, a pleasure.

HeavyArty

Padeciding.  That is cool that you got to help your friend restore a 1:1 model. wel - Thanks for looking in on it.  I'm not sure what the markings will be yet, still  That is my retirement plan/dream - restoring an M606/CJ-3B. 

GMorrison - Thanks for watching, it should come out nicely.

 

When Ms. Morrison, her brother and I all decided that we didn't need the project, we tried to sell it.

"Ford engine, USPS frame, home made body, missing the builders plates"- ad naseum from the Jeep experts.

Very cool Gino, I love these Frankenstein builds. Looking forward to seeing how you bring all these parts together. 

GM: Ok a Frankenstein build in 1:1 scale is a little much! 

richs26 - Thanks for looking in on it.  As GMorrison's pics show and he explains, yes, the rear diff is correctly offset, it just doesn't look like it from the angle of the frame pic. 

GMorrison - Thanks for the assist.  Yes, the AFV Club/Skybow kit is really nice and well detailed.  It isn't as hard to build as it looks though.  It comes out really nice when finished.  The Tamiya MB is really nice, goes together really easily, and looks good when done as well.  With some extra PE and some TLC, it can come out really great looking.  Yeah, your Frankenjeep would be a bit much for me to rebuild.  Cool project, but too basterdized for me as well.  Good luck with it.

Gamera - Thanks for the comments.  I should have some paint on it soon and will show more progress pics. 

Sure, no worries. Everything I know about Jeeps I've learned here.

Frankenjeep went to the scrap yard. I did save the TM.

Gino

You are becoming Mr. Jeep! Nice kitbash, will be interesting to see your outcome. Will be keeping an eye on this one.

Rounds Complete!!

Hi Mike - Thanks for checking in on it.  Yeah, I needed a low-stress, quick project after finishing a 3-month long build of the 1/35 Academy MH-60S Sea Hawk super-detail which will be an article at Aeroscale soon.  I figured another jeep was just what I needed.  I have a few other jeep ideas in the wings that I may start on as well.  I'll keep you all posted on them when I do.

I have completed the M38 conversion.  I decided to make it a USMC jeep with Deep Water Fording Kit (DWFK) for something a little different.  The DWFK includes an extended air intake tube and an extended exhaust tube that allows the vehicle to ford up to a depth of 72 inches.

Here is the setup:


I made the intake tube out of a guitar string (the biggest, G string?), capped with the intake cover off the air cleaner.  The exhaust extension is a piece of solder with the end drilled out.  The fittings and clamps are left over PE bits and a length of 0.20 brass rod.



The intake is routed into the engine compartment through the hood and into the air cleaner.



Here it is overall:





I used Archer instruments and placards left over from a Tamiya Willy's MB kit.



The engine is fully plumbed with spark plug wires, wires for the lights and horn, fuel lines, and a few other lines for good measure.



Here it is with its brothers to see the progression.  On the left is a WWII Willys MB, center is the Willys M38/CJ3A, and on the right is the later Willys M606/CJ3B.



Thanks for looking and as always, all comments are welcomed.

Really great stuff. They went back to a divided windshield?

I really like the CJ-3A.

You should add radio antennas when you get a chance.

That's what I like most about conversions is when you're finished you have a very unique model representing a real life subject. 

Are the decals wet/slip or dry transfers? Or did you describe that already and I missed that text? They layed down perfectly. 

The only thing(s) I see are the ejector pin marks on the inside of the hood. You did an incredible amount of detailing in the engine compartment so I assume you're going to show it with the hood open. Unless those are on the 1/1, actually I don't know. 

Overall, a sweet gem to add to your jeep collection

GMorrison - Glad you like it.  No radios in these, so no antennas.  Yup, you could see M606s with a one-piece and a split windshield.  The later M38A1 went back to the split windshield as well.

 SprueOne - Thanks for the compliments.  The decals are all water slide, with the exception of the Archer instrument faces.  They are rub on, but tiny, so I rub them onto  a piece of plastic baggie, which they don't stick to very well.  I can then lift them off the baggie with the tip of an xacto blade, put a dot of clear coat on the instrument panel where they go, then place them into the clear coat to hold them in place.  It works great every time.  I saw the injector pin markes too, too late of course.  Its amazing how much shows up in photos.  Most of the time, the hood will be closed.  Luckily, they are not that noticable to the naked eye. 

Wow Gino! that is well executed! I have to admit I wouldn't know one jeep from another, but when they're side by side I can see whay you would want to have a collection like that.

Beautufilly done. I like that trick with the dry transfers too. I think I'll give that a try.  ;)

Thanks Mike.  It is pretty cool to see how the jeep changed over the years.  I have others planned as well; Bantam BRC-40, Willys MA prototype, Ford GPW, Ford GPA, maybe another CJ3B in USAF blue, M38A1, M151A2 hard top, etc., etc., etc..... Lots of jeep possibilities.  Not lots of time. 

Man that looks great! I do like the family line up as well. I do love jeeps  Military and civil. 

One smal critique, I'm sure you probably will be keeping the hood closed, but those ejector pin marks on the inner surface there...

I want to see one in all Rustoleum...

Stik - Thanks for the compliments.  I hear you on the ejector pin marks.  I couldn't leave them like that either.  I think they look a little better now.

What say you?

Much better! Now I really like it!

Thanks.  Yup, I am very happy with it too.

WOW... all gone! Nice field repair

And thanks for the tip on applying tiny dry transfers. 

Thanks SprueOne.  I am very happy with it now too.