That looks really good! 

I've never tried a spray gun, probably for the best since I have a habit of flooding the paint on too thick. I've joked before about 'hosing something down with olive drab'. 

But what you've got looks perfect, if it works for you stick with it! 

She looks good, nice work!

Thank you Gamera, I still have much to learn but I am very encouraged by your comments. Below are some pictures of my first coat of Vallejo primer applied with the Iwata RG-3L3 spray gun I got for Christmas.

It's difficult to see in a photograph, but the primer is smooth and has no runs or over spray. I had to learn to let up on the trigger of the spray gun at the end of a pass, then press the trigger before I start the next pass. This way I don't get to much paint in one spot.

I also changed compressors to a Bostitch 'pancake' style air compressor that has a 6-gallon tank. The optimal air pressure at the spray gun is 36 PSI, so I'm delivering paint to the model at a distance of 8 inches somewhere between 20 and 25 PSI. At this pressure and volume of paint with a 1.0 mm nozzle I need to keep moving at a constant speed.

As you can see by the pictures, my first coat of primer was light and left of few places thin, but the Vallego primer preformed perfect without thinning. I will give this coat about 12 hours to dry and add a second coat. I should be ready for a finish coat of Vallejo 71.043 U.S. Olive Drab by Monday night.

Also, I added Vallejo 70.523 Liquid Mask to the vision blocks of the commander's cupola before I started the primer coat.

Harold

She looks great. Love how the periscope guards came out- perfect!

Finally, ready for primer. I am very impressed with the engineering and quality of this model with exception of the turret seam. The detail is excellent, and the instructions are good. I would put this model on par with the AFV Club models I have waiting under my work bench.

Harold

Good luck!

You're a better man than I if you can solder that!

I mastered the technique for soldering 28-gauge (.30 mm) copper wire without overheating it, but the periscope guard is just too fragile in my opinion. I am waiting on 26-gauge copper wire to arrive, so I can try it before I glue the guards to my model. I tried 24-gauge (.54 mm) copper wire, but it looks too heavy compared with the picture of an actual periscope guard.

Harold

Good luck! I hate those friggin' periscope guards. I haven't tried solder stuff like this before, I hope it goes well.

Gamera

Practice hell! She looks pretty damn good!!!

 

The easy way to mask the view-ports on the turret hatch is to take a little white glue like Elmers on a toothpick and plop it down on the clear area and drag it around to cover it. 

 

However, I have a new plan... Last year I was trying to decide how to make a stowage rack for the Jeep I was working on. I finally decided that one day I would learn how to solder copper jewelry wire so I could make things like a stowage rack or periscope guards. So I have ordered a butane micro torch, paste solder and .30 mm copper jewelry wire. I will teach myself how to make metal wire objects for models.

On this model I made three hatch handle out of .30 mm hard piano wire, but semi-hard copper jewelry wire would have worked much better.

Harold

Practice hell! She looks pretty damn good!!!

The easy way to mask the view-ports on the turret hatch is to take a little white glue like Elmers on a toothpick and plop it down on the clear area and drag it around to cover it. 

Thank you Gamera, I keep telling myself this model is only for practice and not to get excited; however, so far it has turned out to be a keeper.

I completed resurfacing sides of the turret with a 3M Metal Finishing Pad. Also completed assembly work on the turret with exception of periscope guard. The guard will be added before the primer coat is applied. I used the clear cupola option so I can mask off the vision blocks while painting. There is a clear periscope option too, but the glass portion of the periscopes is so small I don't think it will be seen. None of the hatches have been cemented so I can finish painting the tank crew later and place them where I want them.

As stated, before the model had a known problem with the seam between the upper and lower halves of the turret. I sanded the seam smooth, filled several small voids with putty and resurfaced the vertical sides of the turret to give it a casting appearance. I should be ready for a coat of primer in the morning.

Harold

That's interesting. I'm going to keep it in mind for the next time I build a Sherman. 

Great job so far, keep up the good work! 

I changed my method of resurfacing the casting marks on the side of the turret. After looking at several pictures of actual Sherman turrets I believe a more accurate method is to rough the surface of the plastic in a vertical direction. I used a 3M Metal Finishing Pad which is made of non-metallic material, but designed to remove light rust from metal.

If I don't like the results of this method, I can always add Mr. Surfacer 500 over the primer after it dries.

Harold

She's coming along great! The Mr. Surfacer on the turret is the same way I do the cast texture Not sure if that's good or bad but it works for me! 

Gamera

Everything looks good to me! 

I've been using Perfect Plastic Putty for a few years now and haven't had any issues with it. Once it's dry I'm not sure being water soluable is an issue. I've washed models off and set them aside to dry before painting and it didn't seem to bother the P3. 

 

The seam between the upper and lower half of the turret is a known problem with this model. The plan is to use a sharp blade to remove the high spots along the seam and then apply a small amount of Mr. Surfacer 500 with a stippling brush to match the casting marks on the rest of the turret. It has been done before, but this will be my first time using this method.

Harold

Everything looks good to me! 

I've been using Perfect Plastic Putty for a few years now and haven't had any issues with it. Once it's dry I'm not sure being water soluable is an issue. I've washed models off and set them aside to dry before painting and it didn't seem to bother the P3. 

I completed steps 14 through 16 which includes sand shield mounting, a stowage rack, spare tracks and jerry cans. Next step is the main gun, turret and cupola assembly.

I was planning to be done with assembly work by tonight but had a few problems. I dripped a small amount of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement on back of the upper hull and didn’t see it soon enough. The cement melted a dent in the plastic that I filled with putty. Another problem was I removed part E3 and E5 which are optional. After I attached them with cement, I decided they did not look right, so I had more repair work to do.

I have tried Tamiya White Putty and found it difficult to work with, so I started using Deluxe Perfect Plastic Putty on this project. My only concern is that it seems very soft and can be remove from plastic with water after it's dry. I hope the Vallejo water-based primer and paint will not make it fail.

Harold

I completed step 13, attaching suspension to lower hull and there are just a few more items to install on the upper hull in steps 14 through 16. The suspension and tracks went together without a problem. Next it's time for the turret and machine gun, I should be ready for primer by Sunday if all goes well.

Harold

Harold: You've got the right idea there. Assemble as much as you can before you paint. I at least find it easier that way. If there are any issues with the suspension you can fudge it a little by adding some 'mud' to the running gear. 

She's coming along great so far, keep up the good work!  

John and Gamera, I agree with you the lower hull was over engineered, but the parts fit together without a problem and the finished product is very strong. I completed steps 10 through 12 and now I'm ready to add the VVSS suspension and track. The track will be painted separate from the suspension, but the suspension will be painted as part of the lower and top hull assembly. The reason I'm doing it this way is to make sure the suspension has a strong bond with the lower hull.

Harold

She looks good! 

I did think having the lower hull in separate parts you cement together to form a box was a little much but as long as you've got things square and straight it's not a problem. 

Harold, It looks like it's coming along great. I also thought Asuka did a good job with the build of the lower hull. Quite a few parts, but it makes for a strong base for the rest of the tank. Good idea on waiting until later for the periscope guards. I installed mine early in the build and must have knocked off the one over the driver's hatch at least twice!

Tanker-Builder

Hmmm;

 Looks to me like you are doing a " Mean Green Fighting Machine". That's what my Uncle called them!

 

Hmmm;

 Looks to me like you are doing a " Mean Green Fighting Machine". That's what my Uncle called them!

Gamera and Roy, thank you for the encouragement and ideas. This is only my second Sherman tank model and so far, I really like the Asuka engineering compared to Tamiya. I have not decided how to use this model yet, but I may replace the Tamiya M4A3 in my Road to Bastogne diorama with this Asuka model.

I completed step 6, the lower hull assembly in two sessions (about 2-hours each). I continue to be impressed with how accurate the pieces go together. The next step is the top hull assembly and it will probably take about the same amount of time as the lower hull assembly. I’m not in a hurry, but I’m keeping track of how much time I spend on this model.

Harold