Thanks Gamera, I'm finding that the while the builds become easier the larger the scale the challenges in making the build realistic are required too (the mic's and cords). Another example we are currently working on would be the tracks. In 1/72 to even 1/35 the tracks can be aged and scuffed up much easier than 1/16 as I'll explain my reasoning below.
As promised, back to modeling the Easy Eight Sherman, and now it's track time.
I want to place a disclaimer here. Even though I served for several years in combat arms in the U.S. Military, I do not claim to be any kind of expert in modeling the subjects. The method I'm going to show worked for this scale and kit. It most likely would not work as well for all military tracked vehicles in the various scales.
The first step Jarrod and I did was paint the linked tracks flat black using left over Testor's Enamel. After letting it dry for a couple days we turned them over and sprays the other side. So now we have a base coat right? Not so fast.... We found that the articulating or hinge portion of the tracks (between each link) did not get a full coat of black. In a smaller scale we would most likely be able to cover it with washes and dry brushing, but not in this large of scale. So, how do we get the spray in between each link? Jarrod and I came up with the idea of using a broom handle. It was laid horizontally to allow the track to bend over it, exposing the inner hinge. While exposed we sprayed between the links flat black finally completing the base coat.
Our second step was to identify where to apply the rust, and we started in the hole within the track guides along with the center pivot point between them.
The next place to paint a rust wash was between each track link; yes we painted each hole in each guide and the two points between each track link. With our Sherman just coming out of an earthy (muddy) location, we did not add rust to the end links pivot point as they will be covered in grime.
Step three was to identify where the reoccurring contact points were that would be painted with bare metal. For us those would initially be where the teeth of the front drive sprocket mesh in each track link. To achieve that we decided to use a permanent silver marker. We thought it would make a consistent mark, much like the sprocket teeth would when contacting the track.
We wer not worried about the silver spillage from the marker as we used enamel bruch cleaner on a ear swab to remove it, leaving only the silver in the track sprocket holes and a light sheen on the end links.
Step four was applying a silver dry brush to the outside edges of the track guides where they consistently contact the inner road wheels thus removing the paint from the outer track guide faces.
Step five was to apply a light rust wash on the external face of the track using diluted Testor's Rust Enamel. Next we chose to dry brush Vallejo Flat Earth thoroughly over the external track, end links, and partially over the inner face of the link that made contact with the road wheels.
This is as far as we can go until we feed the track onto the tank. Once the tracks are on the tank we will add a little more rust in the recessed areas on the external face of the tracks and dry brush the contact points that pound the road with a light silver touch. After that, Jarrod and I will continue with the European thick and splash mud from Vallejo. One of them is European mud with grass (neat!).
We will show more on that portion of weathering when we add the final wear and weathering on the hull and turret (next update). The reason you ask? If you add the scale mud effects to the tracks they dry they will not be flexible. You then would not be able to feed the tracks through the sprocket, idlers and road wheels onto the tank.
We also mentioned we finished working on the "extras". Here is a look at the unopened (strapped) carton of Rations that will be going behind the turret on the engine cover (hull).
During the build, the kit instructions would have you add the water and fuel cans on the rack on the back of the hull. Since we are using a more realistic after-market item, we decided to make a field modification (like many did during the war) and created can holders that were welded to the back of the hull, above the rear fenders. To create the holders we used flat sheet plastic and pre-cut brass. Next update we will show them on the Sherman.
The next update will most likely be the last one before the final reveal. Both digger and Neil were inquiring what we would build next? All we can say is it will either be a car, aircraft, helicopter, military ground vehicle, spacecraft, motorcycle, ship, or figure. 
Talk to you more in a few days. Till then please share your thoughts on the track painting process. I know there are other methods that have been posted on-line, but this method we've shown is our way of doing it. If you would've had an easier way to paint them accurately in this large scale we are all ears to know about it. Thanks for following along, responses are encouraged.
Ben and Jarrod
"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)
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