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Opinions on painting OD

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Opinions on painting OD
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 20, 2004 10:55 AM
For the first time in a while, I'll be painting something (an 8" howitzer) OD, and as I'm getting ready to put the paint on it occurred to me that there might be a better way.

I usually blackprime, spray on a few progressively-lighter OD-like coats with an airbrush, give a light oil-based blackwash and then weather.

Anyone have suggestions on painting methods that yield better results with OD?
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Utah - USA
Posted by wipw on Thursday, May 20, 2004 11:01 AM
Good questions, Larry. Thanks. I'll be reading along and trying out on my Firefly! (I hope to finish that puppy this weekend! --- FINALLY!!)
Bill ========================================================== DML M4A2 Red Army ========================================================== ========================================================== -- There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness". (Author unknown)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 20, 2004 11:14 AM
Larry,
My personal preference is to post shade. I paint it all OD. I like XF-62 from Tamiya. Dial the airbrush down to a fine line and really thin down the paint to where you have to do several passes to see progress. I do the shading and some slight highlights like this. I find it works very well. Then do the washes, scuffing and sratching as usual... But thats just me... Here are examples. The first is after the airbrush only shading and the other is after weathering. Hope this helps
my2cents...



  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 21, 2004 2:50 PM
No one else? C'mon guys, I'm dyin' here! I know a lot of you guys are American builders, so I'm a little hurt. Sad [:(]

In other words, bump. Tongue [:P]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 21, 2004 3:28 PM
Here's my opinion, consider the source.
I sprayed My M4 hull and bogies with Tamiya black, then Tam OD. I found it very dark.
I plan to eventually do some lighter weathering coats and I don't think I'm going to preshade black on the upper parts. As for now, some running around the back yard (it's the 1/16 RC) has dusted up the bogies pretty well to a good effect.
I'm still up in the air.
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Exit 7a NJ Turnpike
Posted by RAF120 on Friday, May 21, 2004 6:37 PM
All I've ever done was spay over all with OD, Ink wash the entire model, drybrush with base color then progressively lighter base color until I like it. My 2 cents [2c]
Trevor Where am I going and why am I in this handbasket?
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Dahlonega, Georgia
Posted by lizardqing on Friday, May 21, 2004 6:58 PM
I just spray the OD then go back with a wash and dry brush. Might have to give the black primering a try though.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Philippines
Posted by Dwight Ta-ala on Friday, May 21, 2004 7:18 PM
Just recently, I discovered that pre-shading works well for me. I mix OD with a little flat black and spray it on corners and areas most likely to be dirty. Then I spray OD overall but thinly on pre-shaded areas. Sometimes when the shading is really good little wash is necessary.

Where needed, I mix OD with a little flat white and drybrush.


Then I add lots of dirt and mud.

  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by shermanfreak on Friday, May 21, 2004 7:30 PM
I'm with Trevor and Chris on this one.

I spray my OD without pre shading and then let my weathering dictate the final results.
Happy Modelling and God Bless Robert
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, May 21, 2004 11:08 PM
When drybrushing, don't add white -- it makes it look very chalky. Use German Dark yellow (ochre) instead. OD was black with ochre and the Dunkelgelb is a good match (S Zaloga swears by this formula).
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Posted by Jeeves on Sunday, May 23, 2004 10:09 AM
While not a tracky thingie, I am using the Tamiya OD on the top of my P-39. After a primer coat of white, I sprayed it on and feel it is a bit dark. I plan on masking off certain panels and using the MM OD which is a bit lighter...and then weathering with pastels.
Mike
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, May 23, 2004 7:34 PM
Larry:

I cut a 10ml bottle of Tamiya XF-62 with a teaspoon plus of their Flat Yellow, then a 1/2 teaspoon minus of their flat white. XF-62 is too dark for me. If someone has a better mix, I'd be glad to hear it ....

Also a good mix for tires; I use a homebrew of RLM Grey, Semi-Gloss Black, & Gloss-Black.

I prime for sanding & clean-up, then just put on the OD-mix, then handle the rest with my own version of post-shade & weathering, usually some combo of wash, dry-brush & pastel. There don't seem to be enough nooks, crannies, and flat surfaces on the gun like on tanks to do too much else ....
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, May 23, 2004 9:17 PM
I spray with OD in a can and then mistakenly leave it in the rain. I then go to a hobby shop and verbally berate the shop owner for not having enough armor in the shop. I then come home complaining about how much the models cost these days and then put my tank in the kitchen to dry off.

After the requisite self flaggelation followed up by self effacing, I then sit in my safe place (commode) and read my issue of FSM.

None of this was meant to be advice. Listen to everyone else. I am merely a freckle on the hindquarters of life.

  • Member since
    December 2009
  • From: West Grove, PA
Posted by wildwilliam on Monday, May 24, 2004 7:11 AM
not sure how i can follow that, but i will try anyway Big Smile [:D]

i found the Tamiya paint to be a bit dark for my liking when i painted my T-34/85.
instead of white, i lightened it w/ Deck Tan.
also, continued to lighten from that 'base' to post shade for fading on horizontal surfaces.

i have not had any luck pre-shading, as i tend to completely cover the shading
when i shoot the base coat. Clown [:o)]
perhaps as my technique improves . . .

w/ the little bit of armor i have finished, i tend to paint the colors 'light'
and then wash the heck out of them.
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Utah - USA
Posted by wipw on Monday, May 24, 2004 12:51 PM
Any ideas of what I use to lighten British Brozne Green? I've been using Humrol #75 on my Firefly and love the way the base coat looks. I'm tempted to try lightening it with a bit of Trainer Yellow, but don't want it to go bright. Also, anyone have any experience mixing Humbrol paints with Model Master enamels?? I've mixed them with good success with a bit of oil paints, but never tried mixing them with other enamels.

Thanks.
Bill ========================================================== DML M4A2 Red Army ========================================================== ========================================================== -- There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness". (Author unknown)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 24, 2004 4:30 PM
Ok, everybody sing with me ...

"What a difference ... a bump makes ..."

Ok, so it's an old song, but I'm sure some of you know it. GUYS?

Whistling [:-^]

Anyways, thanks to all for the responses. Dwight, I am interested in trying out the pre-shading method, but it might be a little over my head. In my current project, though, a gun, I'm trying to figure out just what corners I would be making darker, if you get the jib of my jab.

I think I'm going to go with the straight OD method on the gun and see what happens. You all will see too. One problem will be that I won't weather it til the prime mover is done too, so it's going to look fairly one-dimensional when it is initially built up.

Forgot to mention, Kenneth, that Sherman is quite cool-looking. Nice job.

Gracias again.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 24, 2004 7:33 PM
Larry:
If I were to pre-shade/weather your gun, I think I'd limit it to the bogey assembly and the base of the carriage, and maybe just a tad on the sides of the mount where there are some "ribs" & things.
John
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA, GA
Posted by erush on Monday, May 24, 2004 10:38 PM
Ok Larry, here's my opinion on painting OD.

It's boring...dull...drab even, give me some dunkelgelb, dark green, red ..... Evil [}:)] Tongue [:P] Big Smile [:D]

Ok, maybe not what you're looking for. I'm actually just trying to get a rise out of Robert Wink [;)]

I'm doing my first OD subject right now myself, I'll let you know if I come up with any earth shattering discoveries..........................oops, almost fell asleep thinking of that OD Tongue [:P] Big Smile [:D]
Hi, I'm Eric and I'm a Modelholic too. I think I have PE poisioning.     "Friendly fire...isn't"
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posted by zokissima on Tuesday, May 25, 2004 8:38 AM
I usually use Model Master for this. Before, I used it straight out of a rattle can, then weathered. Now, I'll preshade in black, then use MM Acryl to paint over. Don't really like Tamiya for OD, as the colour is just way too dark.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Upstate NY
Posted by Build22 on Tuesday, May 25, 2004 9:32 AM
Okay, since everyone is bearing all, try this


Pre-shade - dark or black
Coat w/olive drab, olive green, khaki darb, whatever you are using
lighten color ( w/white or buff is nice as well ) spray middle of panels and raised area
drybrush w/ buff - again raised areas

then ( this a secret I an divulging here)..........

Stipple drybrush w/buff - take a round very old brush w/lots of frayed bristles and dab the buff ( dry brush ) on to simulate beat and weathered areas - be careful - you have to feather the effect in so it doesn't look like somebody just throw mud pies at your vehicle




Give that a try - again - feathering will be important


Actually Steve Zaloga is suppose to come out with a new book from Osprey on finishing armor - soon - don't know when





Jim [IMG]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, May 25, 2004 10:08 AM
This is all very informative but can I accomplish these effects with a (very) cheap airbrush? I have a Badger 350.
  • Member since
    December 2009
  • From: West Grove, PA
Posted by wildwilliam on Tuesday, May 25, 2004 12:56 PM
Derek,
i am inclined to say yes.
the Pre and post-shading are simply extra coats done (logically) before or after.
Pre-shading requires no great control or super fine line work. from what i have seen,
if you can spray a line arounf 3/8 of an inch down a seam or through a corner,
you should be fine.
(i can't pre-shade because i am too dim to not completely cover the dark parts
w/ the base coat)

post shading does not require a very fine line either, but you need to be set up
so you can control precisely where you are painting, and that there be no spits
and spatters. this is because you will need to start on a panel, away from the edge
(if you are lightenening the middle) w/o painting a line to it from the outside.

i have made out ok w/ the most despised (by others) airbrush on the forum - the Aztek.
so you should be fine, as long as you can adjust paint & pressure to get adecent control.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, May 25, 2004 2:07 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Build22

then ( this a secret I an divulging here)..........

Stipple drybrush w/buff -



The effect looks great.

And I got a firsthand demonstration a few weeks ago of how OD can fade. There's an 8" howitzer in the Berkshires that's been in front of the VFW for, it seems, decades, and the thing looks like key lime pie.
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Utah - USA
Posted by wipw on Tuesday, May 25, 2004 2:47 PM
Larry, get some pics and post them of that puppy. I'm sure there are a lot of us that would like to see a little more 1:1 weathering!
Bill ========================================================== DML M4A2 Red Army ========================================================== ========================================================== -- There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness". (Author unknown)
  • Member since
    December 2009
  • From: West Grove, PA
Posted by wildwilliam on Tuesday, May 25, 2004 2:51 PM
Bill,
no use looking at 1:1 stuff.
it does not look realistic!
Tongue [:P]

or at least it is unlike a 'good' model, most of the time.
Wink [;)]
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Utah - USA
Posted by wipw on Tuesday, May 25, 2004 2:54 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by wildwilliam

Bill,
no use looking at 1:1 stuff.
it does not look realistic!
Tongue [:P]

or at least it is unlike a 'good' model, most of the time.
Wink [;)]


Yeah. Funny, that!
Bill ========================================================== DML M4A2 Red Army ========================================================== ========================================================== -- There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness". (Author unknown)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 31, 2004 2:36 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by wipw

Larry, get some pics and post them of that puppy. I'm sure there are a lot of us that would like to see a little more 1:1 weathering!


Not unless you want to see 40 year old weathering!

I actually did take some pics of it, and will post them here when I remember to get them developed. Tongue [:P]
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