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Questions about a Sherman Kit

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Questions about a Sherman Kit
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, June 11, 2004 9:41 AM
I'll start with a confession - I've never built a WWII armor kit, and I have rarely built armor of any kind. Planes and cars for me, usually. So, why did I buy a Sherman? Temporary insanity, I guess. It all started when I I found a resin T23 turret on sale at the Squadron open house, the Tamiya M4A3 kit was just down the aisle, and as long as I had those, why not throw in an Eduard PE set? Voila. Armor madness.

It promises to be an interesting project, and a loooooong one, despite the fact that there is no canopy to mask and it's basically all one color. Anyway, here are my questions:

1. Is there an aftermarket muzzle brake for the 76mm gun? The resin barrel is OK, but I'd like to try turning a new barrel on my lathe. A better muzzle brake for the gun would be nice, though I could use the old one.

2. Where can I get the outside dimensions of the 76 mm gun?

3. How "workable" are the vinyl tracks? What is the best way to paint them? I read the comments on the other thread about vinyl vs individual links; now I think I will just forge ahead and use the kit tracks.

Feel free to offer any other remarks. Thanks in advance for any comments or suggestions.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Friday, June 11, 2004 10:01 AM
Jordi Rubio makes an aluminum barrel that comes with a white metal muzzle brake. It is #TG-32 or TG-42, going from memory here. This gun comes with the thread cap and the muzzle brake so you can use the muzzle brake and still have a complete gun for use on another kit.

The vinyl tracks are rather good and do not really need replacing. I tend to paint them an earth brown tone, towards the rust side but not as stark as rust colored paint. Give them a dark wash and highlight them with some dry brushing and you should be OK.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, June 11, 2004 10:09 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Rob Gronovius
[bJordi Rubio makes an aluminum barrel that comes with a white metal muzzle brake. It is #TG-32 or TG-42, going from memory here.

TG-32 is the one with the muzzle brake and threaded cap. TG-42 is the same barrel with a smooth end and no muzzle brake.


M.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, June 11, 2004 3:28 PM
Thanks for the info. It's going to be one heck of a project.

Another question. Has anyone used a PE bender? The Eduard PE set looks like it is going to take a lot of precise bending, and I have been tempted to get one of the new bending guides like Etch Mate. They are kind of pricey, so I'd like some advice before I put down the $$$.

Finally, can I solder PE with a micro torch or soldering iron? I have always used CA, but some of the PE needs to be attached to other PE after bending, and soldering would seem to be a good method.
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Utah - USA
Posted by wipw on Friday, June 11, 2004 3:43 PM
Yes, you can solder pe to other pe. In fact, some recommend it. I wouldn't attempt it with a torch as it might melt the pe, but I've never used one. I don't know how hot they get. My problem has been that even a small iron seems awful big compared to those parts. Le us know what you decide and how it works out.

I've got one of the 2" size Hold & Folds. It's much less expensive than any of the other commercial options. I really like it. I usually hold it close to my face or under my magnifier and I couldn't do that with the bigger ones. However, I also have an EtchMate for longer pieces. To be honest, I got it for Christmas and haven't used it yet. I have been on a PE hiatus since early December. That's about to change and I can't wait to use it. If you're planning on doing a lot of PE work, I'd get either the EtchMate or one of the bigger Hold & Folds. Otherwise, I'd start out with the smaller one or just use flat nose pliers and a #11 blade. But, my bends have been much more precise and faster with the little bender than they ever were with pliers!

It comes down to where you want to spend your $$!
Bill ========================================================== DML M4A2 Red Army ========================================================== ========================================================== -- There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness". (Author unknown)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, June 11, 2004 3:54 PM
Thanks for the advice, Bill.

As I get older and my eyes get worse, it gets harder and harder to searching for the PE that flys away while I am trying to bend it with pliers. I really liked the looks of a tool that holds the tiny PE while I bend it. I can always lose it later, when I go to install it.
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Utah - USA
Posted by wipw on Friday, June 11, 2004 3:58 PM
I tweezerpult parts all the dang time! Someone recommended putting a white sheet on the floor under your work area. One time, I went so far as to lay out white paper towels under my area. Believe it or not (Mr Ripley), it actually helped a lot. When I do launch one, after checking out the desk and giving a cursorily look around, I get out my shop vac, hold a nylon stocking over the end of the hose and vacuum the floor. I've been amazed how many parts I've found!

Good luck
Bill ========================================================== DML M4A2 Red Army ========================================================== ========================================================== -- There is a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness". (Author unknown)
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by shermanfreak on Friday, June 11, 2004 4:07 PM
Tim - welcome to the Sherman world Approve [^]

Everyone has you pretty much covered already. Just to make one point, the majority of 76mm Shermans in W.W.II did not use a muzzle break. Some did, most didn't.
Happy Modelling and God Bless Robert
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